jguerra23

This will be my third oil change coming up and I been using Mobile 1
1st one 5w20
2nd time 10w30

Will it be a bad idea to change to Royal Purple now and if no which one?

grsd03

It doesn't matter if you change brands or weights, it's different if you go to synthetic. Once you go synthetic I don't think you can use regular oil again, not sure though.

01tl4tl

you can go from synthetic to regular at each oil change and the engine wont care at all!
Stick with a 5-20- or 5-30 oil , your choice of brand- RP is good stuff- but dont expect it to last past 7500 miles.

FR4NCH1SE

um the molecular structure of both synthetic and regular oil are the same, so you can even mix regular oil into synthetic if dire straits. That being said, You can flush and use either or. I am reading about car maintenance. So I sort of know what I am saying.

To add, if you drive in the city where there is alot of traffic then I suggest using regular oil, Royal Purple is this?

And If you drive on the highway alot where you go a constant speed for miles, synthetic would be a better choice.

Its all up to you. Thou.

powerflow

Yep, just use the RP when you fill, and use a quality filter. RP consistently scores high on product comparison tests/reviews/evaluations, ect.

Bearcat94

Hmmm? Interesting.

I would have guesse dthe opposite since highway miles are usually considered "easy" miles (low RPM, lot of air flow for cooler running, etc) and city/commute miles are considered "hard" miles (lots of RPM variation, stop & go, less cooling air flow, etc).

I just would've assumed Synthetic is better for "hard" miles and Dino is more than adequate for "easy" miles.

nim090

Hey man, have you installed the TL-S exhaust yet? Where you getting the Royal purple from? I think i'm going to switch to it too...and is it 5w-30?

jguerra23

Naw, the exhaust is still sitting in my spare room, havent had the chance to install the body kit, which is required to go from base exhaust to types quads. ( spending money on the cai, spacer and a resonator)

As far a RP, online, I was going to use it for my 1st oil change, how ever when it came around, I couldnt find this stuff anywhere, so I wentwith Mobile 1 with and K&N filter.

I am 20% on the MID and 15 miles shy of 13k, this will be my 3rd, 1st one was at 3.5kwhich was the break in oil, and the next one @ 9k, so i am only averaging 6.5 k in between oil changes. I floor the car a lot.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

you got my email hit me up... I get rp from v-race works in dykeman... $8 a quart

ballerjai

Manual says 5w-20, with that said, why does everyone else use 5w-30 or others? Is that okay for the engine?

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

the manual also says your foglights are h11...

it can say whatever... it is up to you to use what you want to use

0-30
0-20
5-20
5-30

it dont matter

jguerra23

Got you

phatbastard

Royal Purple all the way, and I do not use anything else....

01tl4tl

5-30 is actually better for the engines lifespan- 30 cushions the impact of the metal parts thrashing together inside better than 20- its `thicker` at normal operating temp

the 5-20 was used for testing to meet CARB corporate fuel economy bs- google it,
but the slight gain in fuel mileage- say maybe .3 - .5 mpg on a vehicle model helps them meet the Corp-average number- each model car is tested and the average from that total must meet govt standards issued every few years.
The next standard for 2012 is 28 mpg- so a mini car that get 40 balances the 15 mpg cars and each model that can contribute by giving a better ~reading~.....

0- is for extreme cold climates- with below freezing overnight temps
the first number is viscosity, the abilty to flow and lubricate at cold temp measured at 32 degrees F
the lower the number, the easier it flows when cold- 0 easiest flow
the 2nd number is that same abilty to flow and lubricate- but at normal oil temp of 200 F-
where the cushion factor must be considered- if you drive hard- 5-30 is your friend

cleex024

hmmm im really considering switching to 5w30 now lol

SporkLover

I know you are reading a book.... but take your comments to Bob is the oil guy forums (A forum that deals with strictly Automotive lubrication and other fluids) and you see what they say.......

When it comes to synthetics its not necessarily the fact that its a synthetic that makes it good or bad, its the fluid base and all of the additives and extra detergents.

In the world of synthetics there are very few that are "true" synthetics (aka PAO based or Group IV).... some of the few known ones are German Castrol, Royal Purple, and Amsoil (there are one or two others but I cannot recall at this time). Mobil 1 is a good oil... but as far as synthetics go it is a Group III based oil, and the purists over on Bob is the Oil Guy argue not a true synthetic.

If you are an engine lubricant freak, stick with one of those brands and you are getting the very best money can buy.

nim090

I can get RP 5w-30 here at Autobarn for 7.99 a quart...so I'm guessing that's a good deal

lars161

I used amsoil in my toyota tundra I used to have and I didn't like it. When it sat for more than an hour at start-up there was horrible top end engine chatter. Conventional oil was better. I switched to MOBIL1 after that and it went away.

Amsoil pours like water and from that noise at start-up it tells me that their oil doesn't coat very well, I will never use it again