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280,000 Miles. Change trans fluid or not?

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Old 12-27-2015, 09:20 AM
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280,000 Miles. Change trans fluid or not?

I recently inherited a 2004 Acura TL with 280,000 miles from my brother for free. He wanted a new car and just did not want to put any money into the TL. Car runs strong and everything still works perfect. Now for the not so good, he was very lax on maintenance. He told me the trans fluid may have been changed "at some point" but he can't remember having it done. My mechanic does not want to even change the fluid. He's from the old school and feels at this point it would do more harm than good. He said just check level and add fluid if needed. So question is would you change the fluid or just leave it? This is a second car for me and will probably only see about 5-6k a year.

If you can believe it even the suspension is 100% original!! Changing that out this week.
Old 12-27-2015, 09:21 AM
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Oh forgot to add that I just did the timing belt, water pump, etc.... which also was never done for 280k.
Old 12-27-2015, 10:06 AM
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Since you got the car for free, you can't feel too bad about putting some coin into the car. I would definitely change the fluid (multiple drain and fills), and replace the switches. When it's all said and done you will have some coin into it, but it's still better than a car payment. Feel very fortunate if the transmission still performs at an acceptable level.
Old 12-27-2015, 10:24 AM
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I would do it
Old 12-27-2015, 11:08 AM
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Check the fluid against a white cloth or paper towel. Is it Red , Brown or Black?

If its Red or Brown, go ahead and do a drain and fill (just a drain and fill). Drive it around for a few days. Do another drain and fill I would say after putting 200-300 miles. If I remember correctly the 04 TL also has a replaceable transmission filter, I would replace it with a magnafine 3/8 filter.

I have a 6MT so I don't use ATF in my TL but I am currently running Valvoline Maxlife ATF + Lubegard red in my CRV and shifts have never been quick, crisp and smooth. I love this combo (This is a video of my CRV shifting
)

Going to be using this combo in my mothers RDX soon.
Old 12-27-2015, 11:13 AM
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If the car has a good history I would invest in the needed repairs to keep it current. I would hate to see a solid Acura god down the drain because you didn't change some simple fluid. If your good with cars you can do 90% of it yourself. Brake Fluid, Power Steering fluid, Oil, Filters, Anti freeze all will be easy. I would get the flush done professionally if the fluid looks or smells burnt.
Old 12-27-2015, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by blueracer17
Since you got the car for free, you can't feel too bad about putting some coin into the car. I would definitely change the fluid (multiple drain and fills), and replace the switches. When it's all said and done you will have some coin into it, but it's still better than a car payment. Feel very fortunate if the transmission still performs at an acceptable level.
I don't mind putting a few bucks into it at all. All said and done with suspension (Tein H Techs with Koni orange), tires, tune up, timing belt service, etc.... I should be into it for about $2900. And yes it beats a car payment. Already have one of those. Definitely don't need another.

Going to check color of trans fluid and will do a drain and fill sometime this week. I just can't imagine not doing at all. My brother drove it 95% highway so maybe that why the trans is still in good shape. Fingers crossed it lasts another 50k.
Old 12-27-2015, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by imeyers725
I don't mind putting a few bucks into it at all. All said and done with suspension (Tein H Techs with Koni orange), tires, tune up, timing belt service, etc.... I should be into it for about $2900. And yes it beats a car payment. Already have one of those. Definitely don't need another.

Going to check color of trans fluid and will do a drain and fill sometime this week. I just can't imagine not doing at all. My brother drove it 95% highway so maybe that why the trans is still in good shape. Fingers crossed it lasts another 50k.
I Hate Cars has talked about this many times, but highway driving puts very little stress on the transmission, or the fluid, this could be the saving grace here.
Old 12-27-2015, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by DevilDog142
If the car has a good history I would invest in the needed repairs to keep it current. I would hate to see a solid Acura god down the drain because you didn't change some simple fluid. If your good with cars you can do 90% of it yourself. Brake Fluid, Power Steering fluid, Oil, Filters, Anti freeze all will be easy. I would get the flush done professionally if the fluid looks or smells burnt.
I do everything myself ysually. Just used my mechanic for the timing belt service because I did not have anytime to do it and did not want to wait any longer. Checked fluid and it's light brown. Does not look bad at all. Going to do a drain and fill with new filter.

What's the best fluid to use in these transmissions? My other car is a mustang and runs solely on Amsoil fluids. Would like to use that unless anyone can recommend something better for these cars.
Old 12-27-2015, 11:51 AM
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This is the same thing I've been wondering about.

ihatecars words were "changing the ATF on high mileage cars when it has never been done may cause more harm than good", same thing your mechanic said.

but surely it isn't good to use burnt up fluid for that long

hmmmm, tough decision

Last edited by guitarplayer16; 12-27-2015 at 11:54 AM.
Old 12-27-2015, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarplayer16
This is the same thing I've been wondering about.

ihatecars words were "changing the ATF on high mileage cars when it has never been done may cause more harm than good", same thing your mechanic said.

but surely it isn't good to use burnt up fluid for that long

hmmmm, tough decision
Think I am going to change my mind and not do the flush. Realistically I will only be driving it 5000 miles at year at most. Probably less. If it lasts another 20k that 4 more years for me. I don't think it worth the risk at this point. To many people telling me not to being that I have no idea if or when it was ever changed. Will just check fluid and top off as needed.
Old 12-27-2015, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by imeyers725
Think I am going to change my mind and not do the flush. Realistically I will only be driving it 5000 miles at year at most. Probably less. If it lasts another 20k that 4 more years for me. I don't think it worth the risk at this point. To many people telling me not to being that I have no idea if or when it was ever changed. Will just check fluid and top off as needed.
Check the color of the fluid. Fluid does break down so either way there is an end for the transmission if you don't do anything as far as fluids go.

The trans holds 9-10 quarts of fluid, you can only drain 3 quarts at a time, maybe 3.5 at the most per drain and refill.

If you do even one drain and refill (even partial with 1 quart), you'll add back a lot of necessary chemicals & additives that help the transmission run.

How does the trans currently shift? With 280k miles and no timing belt, this car was never pushed hard so I doubt it has wear on the actual trans, but more likey the fluid has broken down.
Old 12-28-2015, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by csmeance
Check the color of the fluid. Fluid does break down so either way there is an end for the transmission if you don't do anything as far as fluids go.

The trans holds 9-10 quarts of fluid, you can only drain 3 quarts at a time, maybe 3.5 at the most per drain and refill.

If you do even one drain and refill (even partial with 1 quart), you'll add back a lot of necessary chemicals & additives that help the transmission run.

How does the trans currently shift? With 280k miles and no timing belt, this car was never pushed hard so I doubt it has wear on the actual trans, but more likey the fluid has broken down.
Transmission runs great. Shifts smooth. Only thing I noticed is a slight 2 second delay when putting car into gear. Not sure if that's normal on these cars. Other than that, it shifts fine. I can tell you that my brother never beat on the car at all. Just drove it normally. I am still shocked that a car with 280k, highway or not runs so good.
Old 12-28-2015, 12:16 PM
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someone explained to me that the change of gears is hydraulic based. So, maybe a drain 1x3 and fill would speed that up.

You must have one of those transmissions that was built on pay day.
Old 12-28-2015, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by imeyers725
Transmission runs great. Shifts smooth. Only thing I noticed is a slight 2 second delay when putting car into gear. Not sure if that's normal on these cars. Other than that, it shifts fine. I can tell you that my brother never beat on the car at all. Just drove it normally. I am still shocked that a car with 280k, highway or not runs so good.
with 200K I also have the delay. Spec is 1.6 seconds for engagement according to the factory service manual. Over time the Pressure Switches and other sensors loose their flexiblity in plastic membranes. This causes the pressure to shift by + or - 5-6PSI causing all sorts of issues.

Most folks replace the 3rd and 4th gear swtiches every 2 years or every 30-60K to help avoid damage to those gears. I'd honestly replace all of them in a little bit, but first just drain and refill the fluid with new Acura DW1 fluid.
Old 12-29-2015, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by csmeance
with 200K I also have the delay. Spec is 1.6 seconds for engagement according to the factory service manual. Over time the Pressure Switches and other sensors loose their flexiblity in plastic membranes. This causes the pressure to shift by + or - 5-6PSI causing all sorts of issues.

Most folks replace the 3rd and 4th gear swtiches every 2 years or every 30-60K to help avoid damage to those gears. I'd honestly replace all of them in a little bit, but first just drain and refill the fluid with new Acura DW1 fluid.
Definitely going to look into doing that. Going to do a drain and refill this weekend and look into to the switches. Trying to get the car all sorted out but I do everything myself and unfortunately for the Acura my Mustang 5.0 build gets most of my shop time in the garage. This weekend the acura goes up on the lift for some TLC.
Old 12-30-2015, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by csmeance
with 200K I also have the delay. Spec is 1.6 seconds for engagement according to the factory service manual. Over time the Pressure Switches and other sensors loose their flexiblity in plastic membranes. This causes the pressure to shift by + or - 5-6PSI causing all sorts of issues.

Most folks replace the 3rd and 4th gear swtiches every 2 years or every 30-60K to help avoid damage to those gears. I'd honestly replace all of them in a little bit, but first just drain and refill the fluid with new Acura DW1 fluid.
So after speaking to a lot of people the consensus is to not change the fluid. Best answer I got out of my brother was that the fluid was changed years ago. My mechanic said it best. It's all good now. If I change fluid and start to have problems I am gonna be pissed. If I don't change it and a year down the line the tranny has problems I will do a swap for another transmission. Only driving it about 5000 miles a year so even if it holds for 10k more thats 2 years for me.
Old 12-30-2015, 02:37 PM
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The reason it's lasted 280k miles is because it was driven 95% highway. Now that you won't be driving it on the highway as much and only doing 5k a year, there will be a lot more stop and go and torque converter lockup.

Change the fluid. It's previously been done. It's not black. It's not too late. Do a 1x3. It will not shock the system. Change the switches. You will prolong the transmission a lot longer than your expected 2 years.

But hey, it's your car. Do what you wish. Happy Motoring.

Last edited by ggesq; 12-30-2015 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 12-30-2015, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ggesq
The reason it's lasted 280k miles is because it was driven 95% highway. Now that you won't be driving it on the highway as much and only doing 5k a year, there will be a lot more stop and go and torque converter lockup.

Change the fluid. It's previously been done. It's not black. It's not too late. Do a 1x3. It will not shock the system. Change the switches. You will prolong the transmission a lot longer than your expected 2 years.

But hey, it's your car. Do what you wish. Happy Motoring.
I have never been so undecided about doing something on a car. I got 4qts of DW1 from honda so I will think about it for another day. I would just be really upset if right after it starts having problems. Already spent a few bucks fixing this car up. Don't want to add a tranny to the list right now.
Old 12-30-2015, 07:51 PM
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I can understand the conundrum. I think you would have to go into as mentioned with a 1x3 change and the switches and go from there. But go into with the mindset that if it does fail soon after that then so be it. Kinda like taking $100 to the casino and if you loose then ohh well, but if you win then hey that's great
Old 12-31-2015, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by imeyers725
I have never been so undecided about doing something on a car. I got 4qts of DW1 from honda so I will think about it for another day. I would just be really upset if right after it starts having problems. Already spent a few bucks fixing this car up. Don't want to add a tranny to the list right now.

The only helpful advice I can give you is do the pressure switches before you do the fluid if you are on the fence. It'll def improve the trans and help keep things operating well. After that I'd suggest you do the fluid too as you'll drip a little bit (100ml) when changing the switches and need to top off anyway. If you do decide to do the change, save the old fluid. You can put it back in if there is a problem with the trans and that should help it out.

Worst case scenario, you can also buy a honda accord V6 trans, swap over the range switch and save a ton of money. About $500-1K for the trans and a swap is a few hours of labor. Swap over the new pressure switches too!

Last edited by csmeance; 12-31-2015 at 03:08 AM.
Old 12-31-2015, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by csmeance
The only helpful advice I can give you is do the pressure switches before you do the fluid if you are on the fence. It'll def improve the trans and help keep things operating well. After that I'd suggest you do the fluid too as you'll drip a little bit (100ml) when changing the switches and need to top off anyway. If you do decide to do the change, save the old fluid. You can put it back in if there is a problem with the trans and that should help it out.

Worst case scenario, you can also buy a honda accord V6 trans, swap over the range switch and save a ton of money. About $500-1K for the trans and a swap is a few hours of labor. Swap over the new pressure switches too!
This is exactly what I am going to do. Either way I got the car for free and only have about 3k into it. If I have to spend another $1000 for an updated tranny I am still ahead of the game. 4K for a car with new timing belt, water pump, pulleys, brakes, tires, suspension, and an updated tranny if I need one. Still not a bad deal either way. I have a lift in my garage so if I need to swap the trans at least I can save on labor and do it myself.
Old 12-31-2015, 04:03 PM
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^pics of lift in garage?


Would Love to have a lift in my garage!
Old 12-31-2015, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Slpr04UA6
^pics of lift in garage?


Would Love to have a lift in my garage!
Would like to post pics but it's a portable lift and I won't be using it till next weekend when I do the suspension. It's the bendpak BL-5000-XL. Will take some pics then.

http://www.bendpak.com/Shop-Equipment/QuickJack/BL-5000XL.aspx
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Old 12-31-2015, 05:59 PM
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It's better than what I have, since I don't have one at all, but that's not a lift - that's a portable quick jack. It only raises the car as much as a jack.

I thin KN has a max jack which is awesome for home use. Either one of those, or a 7000lb lift is in my future.
Old 12-31-2015, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by screaminz28
It's better than what I have, since I don't have one at all, but that's not a lift - that's a portable quick jack. It only raises the car as much as a jack.

I thin KN has a max jack which is awesome for home use. Either one of those, or a 7000lb lift is in my future.
Not to get to technical but Websters definition of a car lift is:

"A hydraulic machine by which automobiles are hoisted above the floor to give access to the underparts".

By that definition it is very much a lift.
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:22 PM
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i dont understand the fear of putting new fluid in an old transmission with many miles. Can anyone explain why that could be bad?
Old 12-31-2015, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by imeyers725
Not to get to technical but Websters definition of a car lift is:

"A hydraulic machine by which automobiles are hoisted above the floor to give access to the underparts".

By that definition it is very much a lift.
Ha - then I do have a lift.




It hoists the automobile above the floor, its a hydraulic machine, and I get access to the underparts. Horray for me and Webster.

Let's go by the product's definition from Bendpack -




Old 12-31-2015, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Fatfrii
i dont understand the fear of putting new fluid in an old transmission with many miles. Can anyone explain why that could be bad?
I think there is a thought that the fluid could contain particles that is 'keeping the trans working'. However, I think it mostly stems from the normal process of auto transmission ownership.

1. transmission runs for years and no maintenance or fluid change is done
2. transmission begins to act up
3. owner changes fluid
4. transmission poops itself
5. owner blames transmission fluid swap

With that being said, I have heard that it is NOT good to do a transmission FLUSH with a pressurized machine if it has never been done before and it has high mileage. I'd also think that a flush may not be good in any situation, and simply a drain and fill multiple times would be a better course of action.
Old 01-01-2016, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by screaminz28
Ha - then I do have a lift.




It hoists the automobile above the floor, its a hydraulic machine, and I get access to the underparts. Horray for me and Webster.

Let's go by the product's definition from Bendpack -




OK maybe is half jack and half lift. I debated the max jax but with my garage setup I don't have the height to lift it high enough to stand under the car. The quick jack is 1/2 the price of the max jax and I figured if I have to work on my back anyway I may as well not spend twice the money for height I can't use. I never like jack stands so for me this was a great alternative, plus I can throw it in an SUV and bring it to anyone of my friends houses to help them out when need be.
Old 01-01-2016, 09:43 AM
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Either way, it sounds like it will make things easier!


I'm in for any pics that you can provide. I haven't checked price yet.....
Old 01-03-2016, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Slpr04UA6
Either way, it sounds like it will make things easier!


I'm in for any pics that you can provide. I haven't checked price yet.....
Here is a pic of my other car on the lift/jack. More that enough room under there to do whatever you need to do comfortably.
Old 01-03-2016, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by imeyers725
Here is a pic of my other car on the lift/jack. More that enough room under there to do whatever you need to do comfortably.
Sorry foroot the pic..

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Old 01-04-2016, 10:13 AM
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Do it OP..


I was in a similar situation with a similarly glass transmission on my 99 Accord v6 (currently sitting at 266K) . Mechanic years ago (~140K) told me not to change fluid so I didn't.. fast forward a few weeks ago and transmission started acting very funny.. Decided to just bite the bullet and change fluid (Just a 1x3 to try it out) ... HOLY SHIT car started shifting wonderfully again..



TL ; DR: do it.
Old 01-04-2016, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by imeyers725
I recently inherited a 2004 Acura TL with 280,000 miles from my brother for free. He wanted a new car and just did not want to put any money into the TL. Car runs strong and everything still works perfect. Now for the not so good, he was very lax on maintenance. He told me the trans fluid may have been changed "at some point" but he can't remember having it done. My mechanic does not want to even change the fluid. He's from the old school and feels at this point it would do more harm than good. He said just check level and add fluid if needed. So question is would you change the fluid or just leave it? This is a second car for me and will probably only see about 5-6k a year.

If you can believe it even the suspension is 100% original!! Changing that out this week.
To me this is a no brainer, change the fluid and switches. You will not do any harm by putting fresh fluid in it. Any damage that has already been done to it won't get worse with clean new fluid.

Now "flushing it" is a different story.
Have fun
Old 01-04-2016, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by thegipper
To me this is a no brainer, change the fluid and switches. You will not do any harm by putting fresh fluid in it. Any damage that has already been done to it won't get worse with clean new fluid.

Now "flushing it" is a different story.
Have fun
Going to do a drain and fill this weekend. As far as the switches is there any place cheap that has them or should I just go to my local acura dealer. And how many are there to change?
Old 01-05-2016, 07:34 AM
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Read all about it here: https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...2006-a-729149/
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
So its just the 2 switches?
Old 01-05-2016, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by imeyers725
So its just the 2 switches?
for the 04-06
Old 01-05-2016, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
for the 04-06
Going to head over to acura today to grab the switches.


Quick Reply: 280,000 Miles. Change trans fluid or not?



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