sdt1890

First off, this forum has been a tremendous help. I bought my TL in mid-2012 w/ 49K Miles and just now crossed over 110K Miles.

Minimal issues thus far including the HFL issue a few years ago, such a PITA but ended up just not fixing it as the price was ridiculous, but saw the lawsuit on the homepage this morning and signed up, a big thanks! The main reason I logged on today was to figure out why I have been continually getting the "Tighten Fuel Cap" message, which I found the answer to immediately here - awesome! https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...essage-915682/

I've done the 105K maintenance and at this point, plan to keep the vehicle for at least a few more years now, what have you all found to be the most common maintenance items in the 110K-150K mile range?

Jklaz

Im sitting at almost 120k. Recently had engine mounts and transmission mounts go.. and had a window regulator fail a few months back. Other than that going strong

truonghthe

I don't know why $256 part for a (originally) $34k car is ridiculous? may be this come from a person who only owned economy car previously? I owned many Japanese brand and $256 is very reasonable especially come to luxury brand. BTW at this point you will need to look at motor mounts and transmission mounts, LCA bushing and the steering rack, that all I can think about right now.

GreenSpades

Sometimes O2 sensors go bad on Hondas Ive found. Also you could have ignition coils go out. Pulleys, bearings, and belt. All pretty normal stuff tho that could go out on just about any car of that mileage.

ErnieMcCraken

I'm at 95k and had tensioner pulley go plus a radiator recently. I bought the car about a year and half ago with 71k on the clock. I thought these cars were supposed to be low maintenance.

quantum7

You have at least another 120,000 left with just the regular stuff that goes on older cars. Mine just rolled over 250,000 miles a couple of days ago and overall it has been a great car. My radiator went at about 220,000 but it was an easy DYI at just over $100. Just keep an eye on suspension parts getting worn, keep changing the transmission fluid at reasonable intervals, and look in the Problems and Fixes section to see what pops up. Good luck and enjoy.

ErnieMcCraken

You've been lucky. I honestly think a lot of it depends on what part of your country you live in. Being in the Northeast cars take an absolute beating. A guy I bought tires from said I "did good" when I was able to get 30k out of a set of tires with a tread warranty of 60k. He said between the hills and quality of roads, cars eat tires around here.

quantum7

I am in CT and usually get just over 50,000 on my stock Michelin tires.

DesertMistTL

iTrader: (2)

from 95k to 185k now I have. Car came with timing belt already done.

+Replaced my radiator cap and radiator reserovir hose--it cracked and started spewing fluid and coolant kept disappearing--bad cap
+Replaced starter at 175k, it would sometimes not start and start again since 110k miles and I just figured it was just flukes until completely wouldnt work.
+replaced intake arm--it cracked
+Replaced ripped passenger motor mount--takes 5 mins
+Replaced all seals on power steering at 150k, it was leaking everywhere

Basic Maintenance:
+Swapped tranny fluid
+Swapped brake fluid
+Swapped power steering fluid
+New 3rd/4th pressure switches
+New plugs/airfilter/cabin filter at least twice now in 100k

Right now I also have oil pump leak or rear main seal, havent diagnosed it yet.. I drive about 60miles everyday and have put about 100k in 4 years.

flyromeo3

if i remember correctly, around that mileage I had my passenger mount changed while changing the timing belt.

After 120k up until I got rid of the car at 193k I changed the following:

Suspension
All brake rotors and pads
power steering o-ring
tensioner pulley
idle pully
heater control valve - 2x
front lower control arms
front lower ball joints
passenger front window regulator
muffler hangers
windshield

then at about 175 started having transmission issues..eventually had it rebuilt to only start developing issues at around 190k.

DesertMistTL

iTrader: (2)

wow how'd you know you needed new heater control valves, tensioner//idler pulleys

i should inspect my lower ball joins and lcas.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Heater control valve is susceptible to leaking coolant.
The tensioner/idler pulley (bought as a whole assembly from Honda or Gates) is replaced when you have excessive belt movement or noise.