Atlas_Gen

I bought the Aisin Kit from Rock Auto.

nfnsquared

For you first timers, here's a good video showing the timing belt with the engine removed. Note that he does not follow the service manual procedure for replacing the belt, but I guess his method seems to work.

He also has a 5-6 part video series on the TB service.

Majofo

I wouldn't pull the crank sprocket out to slip the belt on. I'd also double check the tension on idler pulley and water pump side to make sure it's taught before pulling the pin. He did emphasize but didn't state what happens if you forget the put the key back in..
Which is why I wouldn't pull it out in the first place. We have a member her who can testify to that.

nfnsquared

Yeah, I wouldn't pull the crank sprocket either. Both times I've done the TB change, I never had an issue following the service manual procedure for replacing the belt.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I've only done it once, and I had no issues either...although I mainly followed the instructions in this thread.

nfnsquared

This guy seems to know what he's doing, but I ROLF'd at video #4 where he spent 5 hours getting that crank bolt off...I bet all he needed was a $25 Lisle 77080 socket... Good on him for replacing the belt and TB cover at his expense after applying all that heat Can't believe the owner was so cheap as to not fork over an extra ~$150 for a complete TB/WP kit...

Majofo

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, I inspected my oem crank pulley and it looked pretty beat. Felt like since I had a lightweight one laying around I might as well throw it on.
105K service had been done a few years back so it wasn't an untouched crank pulley but MAN that bolt was hard as fuck to get off.
Probably a full 2 solid minutes of hitting it with the gun and then lubing with peanut butter blaster. I was gonna abandon or order the lisle, but got lucky!

freddiemercury1

Thanks for the awesome write up.
I did fine till replacing the timing belt and when I tried to pull the pin in swift movement (not s o swift I guess) the pin came half way and is stuck. I tried pulling it bit it's very hard.

Any suggestions to resolve this ??

Thanks and appreciate the help.

nfnsquared

Get pliers on it, it'll come out. If not, you'll have to pull the tensioner, put it in a vice, and reset the pin.. Not a big deal unless you don't have a vice.

freddiemercury1

Thanks for the quick response!
I did not want to remove the tensioner so i tried yanking but in the end I just removed the tensioner put the pin back and installed the tensioner back. I will pull the pin tomorrow just to make sure I did not miss anything today :|

94eg!

I found the pin on the tensioner too soft. It wouldn't pull out (with pliers even) once the tip of the pin popped out of the first hole. The hydraulic pressure bent the pin so much there was no way you could pull it through the next two holes. I tried twice to straighten the pin and have another go, but ended up with the same problem both times. Finally I chucked the pin and replaced it with a drill bit. Plenty stiff and slipped right out with pliers when the time came.

BTW: A simple large C-clamp works great to compress the tensioner. I've used an old rusty one to do this at least 6 times. Just go slow and you won't have any trouble.

VeNoMiZeD

My 2008 Type S has 112k miles, is the 105k service supposed to alert me when it's due? I get every other alert for oil changes etc... But still haven't had the 105k service yet. What is the alert code? Thanks!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

There is no alert...it's a suggested interval. Many have gone much further without trouble, but it's kinda like going raw on Kim K, you might not get the herp, but do you wanna chance it?

thoiboi

B14

nfnsquared

More correctly, the MID will indicate a "4" for the TB change. It will also be accompanied with "A" or "B" and may also include another number. All of this is covered in your owner's manual.

Majofo

LOL.. get a vice!
Not a ninny one either.. for reasons.

t-rd

George Melnik specializes in European cars and the procedure he illustrated isn't exactly correct, even though he put on the belt tight. The correct procedure to follow is that used by Eric O from the the Honda Pilot video. I would not remove the crank pulley sprocket, but you can loosen the idler pulley on the right, slip the belt on, then retighten the idler pulley. The bolt for the idler pulley allows that pulley to self center back to the right position once you tighten it. The back side of that bolt has a cone shape that centers back the pulley.

I watched his other video where he used a 1" impact gun to get the pulley. People, just get the Lisle socket or that new fancy one from Ingersoll. I got it off with an 1/2" OLD electric impact within 5 seconds.

DMZ

Oh, I'm a clown. I make you laugh? I amuse you. I'm funny? How funny? WTF is so funny about me?
.

Majofo

rkpatt

I just did another timing belt change for a friend on an A-122 . This my 5th Acura V6 timing belt project. Never had any problems before.. This one show an oil leak immediately after completing the job There were no signs of leaks be before job. Crank and cam seals showred no signes of leaks when I had the covers off hwen I preformed the job and I left them in palce. The dipstick tube o-ring was replaced as part of the job and was a checked after I the leak was apparent (I was fine). is really difficult for me to believed that the crank seal coincidentally failed ?. Where else could be coming from (any bolts actually go in to the crank case) ? The TB t looks dry - I removed upper right cover and saw that the belt is dry ? This there anyway I can further inspect this situation short of a very time consuming effort of all the the timing covers (eg cut inspection holes lower cover with a dremel etc ) ? Advice/recommendations on what to do next are appreciated.

nfnsquared

Are you sure it's coming from the crank seal?

rkpatt

No, am not sure and want to locate the source of the oil leak without tearing it all apart again if possible. ( cut inspection hole in lower timing cover? Add UV dye to oil ? etc)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Check the vtec solenoid gasket too...
easier to get to and "kinda" unrelated!

rkpatt

Yes, it seems in related but worth a look. I will wash everything off and take a closer look there too.

Majofo

I'm not sure why you replaced dipstick o-ring, but that would be my first guess. I'd double check that. Also check PCV valve.
Regarding crank seal.. there's some theory that breaking the cp bolt / re-torquing it, applying PB, or applying heat to it might somehow disturb the sleeping giant.. and subsequently cause a leak.
I wouldn't rule it out, but I'd be a bit surprised if it was significant.
Vtec solenoid gasket is definitely a common source for oil leaks. Replace the solenoid o-ring as well.

A good way to check for leaks is clean everything up.. put it up on stands, and spray the suspect areas with athlete's foot spray (powder residue). Turn car on and watch.

Majofo

Remote possibility.. spark plug seal. You should check the valley and see. Remember the leak appears at the lowest point, the source can be anywhere.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^kinky...
I used peanut butter

Majofo

These aren't your nuts, and we ain't your dogs

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

ChrisJ

Wish I could find someone like you in Louisville, Kentucky area. I am in need of this 105k mile service myself in the next 1k or so. Really trying to stay way from the dealer markup on the service.

Aussum

Hi,

My name is James. I'm 43, father of 5, and i live in Dallas. I've been reading these forums a lot lately and came across this 105k DIY service thread. I bought a 2004 TL about 18 months ago and it has been my wife's car, up until we found a 97 Integra LS sedan with 60k original miles on it for $1000. Since the TL had 190k on it, the Integra felt like a new car to her, so she claimed it. I fell in love with the TL after driving it more and learning more about it from this forum. I have since started a new business venture that requires me to use the car as a delivery method and i really need to get it restored. I just got the car back from the shop today after doing a complete suspension refresh to it. The shop (who i completely trust) let me know that it is in dire need of the timing belt service as the tensioner can be heard rattling when you start the car. I just dropped $1300 on the undercarriage of the car, and with starting a new business, there is no way i can drop another $1500 for the 105k service plus the oil pump seals. I'm worried that if i don't get the service done soon that the tensioner might fail causing the motor to be damaged. So here it is..... I was wondering if i might be able to bribe someone with booze, pizza, and a little cash to help me get this service done on my car? I would attempt it myself but all my tools were stolen in a home burglary last year, and i'm not sure i trust myself to try something this important anyhow.

I feel like a real dick imposing on someone like this. I just have to try for the sake of my business and my TL.

I know this is a crazy request.

Thank you for taking your time to read this.

​-James-

nfnsquared

You might have better luck posting in the regional forum, dunno.

As far as their claim that they can hear the tensioner rattle.... I'd be a bit skeptical of that. It could be an exhaust shield, it could be the serpentine belt tensioner....

Was the first TB change done at 105K?

Aussum

I dont know for sure. As far as carfax is concerned, no. The car came from NY. I'm sure it could have been done at an indi shop and not reported.

Aussum

I have nothing but trust for this shop. They could have took me for a lot more on the car and they didn't. They did stuff like replace tie rod end boots rather that replace the tie rod end itself. They come highly recommended by the entire honda/acura community locally.

The Hondew Shop.

i also have heard the noise, and agree that it sounds like its coming from behind the TB cover.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

A simple timing belt/tensioner and wp service at Honda normally runs about $600 including parts, maybe a tad more. That's down here in SoFla too, which normally has inflated rates.
Give it a shot.

Aussum

The noise seems to come and go. I don't doubt that the TB service needs to be done, but it might not be as bad as i was thinking. I'm just going to baby the car until i can come up with enough money to resupply myself with some tools. After all, what kind of man doesn't work on his own car?.... right?

thanks for listening to my sob story, all.

nfnsquared

Try removing the drive belt (serpentine belt) and then starting the car.... Does the sound go away?


And FYI, you should be able to get most of the required tools free via an auto parts store loaner program....

Aussum

I will. I'm doing the a/c field coil and clutch replacement tomorrow, so i will have the belt off. I will check it then.

Thanks for the advise.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

if you have the serpentine belt off anyway, you might as well do the timing belt job
I can't think of any specialty tools necessary...go to a local shop and pay them $10 to crack your crank pulley bolt...
drive to Sears and buy a beginner's socket wrench set for $100 and get at it!

The belt portion of this job isn't really too bad...the part that sucked the most ass for me was doing the valve adjustment at the same time because it made the overall job feel daunting.