rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That's exactly what I went through...read it when I first got the car and was like, NOPE...NEVER.
Then, 5 years later...tackled it!

jkuhn76

Is there a specific parts list of what to buy for 100k maintenance? I have an 07 TL-S and just rolled 100k miles. I'd prefer to not buy the parts from the dealer as I suspect it will be a small fortune.

thoiboi

look through this whole thread, it's in here.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, it's in this thread for sure. Read through it. Set aside at least 10 minutes though.

Atlas_Gen

At the very 1st page, Majofo has listed the parts that you will need for the 105k job.

I bought my Aisin Timing Belt/Water Pump Kit on rockauto.com - Great site! I just did my TB/WP a few months ago and it was a breeze with this guide! Although I waited until 122k to do mine because I couldn't find any time to work on it when I was close to 105k but it was finally a huge relief to get the job done and now I don't even have to worry about it anymore. Majofo is awesome for making it and thank you to everyone else that also had good info about the maintenance. I didn't run into any problems and the only tough part will be taking out that Crank Pulley bolt but once you break that loose then it's all downhill from there and take your time with the whole job, I did mine over a weekend, started on a Saturday morning and finished by Sunday evening.

Here are 2 important tools that you should definitely buy for this project, it definitely made the job that much easier to complete:

Capri Tools 21000 Honda Crank Pulley Removal Tool
https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-2...nk+pulley+tool

Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-H...nk+pulley+tool

You'll use the CP Removal Tool to hold the Crank Pulley in place while you zip off the CP bolt because without it then the Crank Pulley will just keep spinning. Connect a 1/2" breaker bar to the CP Removal Tool then put the Lisle Socket onto the CP bolt and it'll pop right out!

The Lisle Harmonic Balancer Socket zipped off the CP bolt with a breeze, I tried it out at work and I wish I would have recorded it on my phone. I first tried to take out the CP bolt with a regular 19mm impact socket and it wouldn't budge but once I put that Lisle socket on, it popped right out because all the torque was actually put into the bolt instead of losing torque with a regular impact socket.

Just follow the guide step by step and you'll be able to do the job easily!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That socket is great...
basically turns the hammers in your impact into sledgehammers.
If you have a manual transmission, you don't need the tool to hold in place...put in gear and hold the brake. I'm still not entirely sure why that works...but it does.

94eg!

It works because you are holding the motor from turning via your clutch, transmission, brakes & suspension. Ultimately it's the suspension that prevents the motor from turning. Though......I'm not sure I would want many hundreds of foot-pounds hammering through the gear teeth of my transmission.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

No kidding...good to know, thank you.

Atlas_Gen

Yeah, I was surprised by how well the socket worked without having to heat the CP bolt up or spray it down with some lube, it just zipped right off right as I pulled the trigger.

Majofo

NFN.. had to take the CP bolt off the MDX this past week because the elastomer ring gave out and the crank pulley completely tore apart (consider replacing your crank pulley, MDX has roughly 180k miles). Anyways, saw that vid you posted comparing the the impact guns and was sold on the Dewalt DCF899 (not 889 noobs).

+Dewalt is expanding their line of 20V power tools (Dewalt Introduces Two Cordless Power Tools You Never Thought Possible | Dewalt Flexvolt 60V | Cordless Table Saw | Cordless Miter Saw).
+J (RS143) gave the good vouch for it
+It's the least expensive including batteries (+ has 3rd party battery suppliers).

Sorry IR W7150.

Anyways, I soaked the bolt down in PB and hit it with my trusty impact socket for 5 straight days. No go. I'm telling you, I hit the bolt so hard I almost lost vision in my right eye. I swear, any more torque and it would have spun me through the ceiling. Bolt started wearing down and even the four corners of the impact where the anvil inserts wore down. After J's recommendation, got the Lisle 19MM Mother of all Impact Sockets. It came off faster than Justncrabs nuts on a first date. I love this socket. I'm going to sleep with it under my pillow tonight, next to my trusty CZ75B. I'm guessing steady pressure with a breaker bar would have still done the job, but it was so satisfying to make that bolt my bitch tonight with little effort.

Anyways, thought you'd like some feedback. Thanks again J for the recommendation on the gun and socket.

nfnsquared

No need to be sorry. Both great guns!! Just crossed 232K today.....

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Anytime, man. I'm really relieved it worked out...I kept thinking, great...I tell him how easily it ripped up my cp and axle nuts...and then bam, he can't get his.

Majofo

Indeed.. btw, J said IR makes a big ass impact socket too. It's fancy looking. A little pricier but it's definitely a quality socket. The Lisle socket is cheap TW quality. The body of the socket had divets all around even though it was brand new. There are some reviews of them being delivered cracked too. But it's $20.. can't really complain.

https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Ran.../dp/B01CVAG1SG

Majofo

Also note that when I was trying to remove the bolt with reggo impact socket, I even tried rocking it to try and make it budge (tight, loose, repeat..).. nada.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I sent you a screen shot of that socket, remember!?!??! and you were like, crack head pricing hellz no....

you were probably loopy from all that eye socket hammering you'd just taken!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

how are you re-torquing to spec? With tool to 158 ft/lb or whatever? Or using the 40 ft/lb and then 60 degrees more?

Majofo

Read the OP
Most shops would just rehit it with the impact gun. I'm a fan of torquing to spec.

Majofo

I have a new 250 ft lb torque bar I used on the axle nuts that is begging to do the job

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

all the way at page 1? I'm not rereading this thread backward to get there!
I tried the brake/gear method and it wouldn't hold it to the torque spec. I guess I shouldn't have sold the tool that holds the crank in place.

t-rd

+1 for the Lisle socket.

I used an OLD Ingersoll electric impact (NOT W7150) and was able to get it off after about 5 seconds.

I use a Tekton torque wrench rated for 250 ft-lb max and torque to 181 ft-lb, extension is an 1/2", 18" long Powerbuilt extension.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Maybe I shouldn't have returned the socket.

Atlas_Gen

I torqued the CP bolt down with a torque wrench when I did the service on my TL, I used the CP removal tool with a breaker bar to hold the bolt in place so it wouldn't spin.

blueracer17

I replaced my timing belt and T-stat (along with all associated parts) yesterday on my 04' with 104,850 miles on it. I used the Aisin kit and it worked very well. The job wasn't too bad. My tensioner was leaking, the water pump bearing had a little play and the belt was starting to crack. It was definitely time to replace the parts, glad I didn't wait. The idler and tensioner pulleys were in great shape however. I was planning on pulling the oil pump to replace the crank seal and other seals behind the pump, but my exhaust nuts were so rusted I decided to just replace the oil filter housing/ETEC screen seal, since that was easy to get to. The crank seal/oil pump didn't show any evidence of leaking, so I left it as is. Once the crank pulley bolt is off, it's not a bad job. Valve adjustment will be later this summer (once my hands heal from this job)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Nice, man...
I need to do the oil pump seal next service...

70K miles from now

My leaking steering rack is much more important right now.

ekrekel

Pump seal is quite a bit extra work. Unless it's leaking leave it alone. Change the PCV valve though to keep the chances of compressing the crank case. Im pretty confident that caused my seal/pan/spark plug tube leaks.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Really? I actually cleaned mine...
Yeah, my pump seal is leaking...well, more like "weeping"...so it will stay.
The steering rack is leaking BADLY though...that'll need addressing in the next few weeks before the seal gives out altogether and I burn out the pump.

Atlas_Gen

I forgot to change out my PCV Valve when I did the TB/WP service so I just ordered it online a few minutes ago and will do it as soon as it arrives!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Curious...is that something that needs changed, or can't it be soaked with tb cleaner to clean out the ports?

ekrekel

It's all plastic, I'd be weary of using a cleaner considering it's a $20 part.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I just didn't realized it was a wear and tear item...
I'll definitely order another one.

To confirm:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

That's the part number I cross referenced but amazon says it won't fit. They're prolly rong.

TypeAcura

Interesting...so I called my Acura dealer for a quote and he basically quoted me for the timing belt and spark plugs. He told me I shouldnt do the water pump as hes seen one water pump change and that too for a 2004. He also told me I was wasting money by changing thermostat and tensioner!!

Im going to get it done outside of the Acura dealership - but just thought this was interesting..usually the dealer should be happy to mint money but in this case the dealer is telling me not to do what I thought was basic maintainence for a car with 140000kms! Granted my MM light isent on yet and Im still not at 160000kms but I was trying to be proactive and ensure my car is properly maintained since I dont have the service history from the previous owners....

UlsterBoy13

Find another Dealer. Except for the thermostat item which no one has quoted to do, no one, Acura and Honda alike has said to leave the WP alone.

blueracer17

At 104k miles my water pump had some play in it, but was not leaking and the tensioner was starting to leak. I would replace all the wear/moving parts in the timing belt system for sure. The labor is in the time it takes to access to everything. Time to replace the tensioner and pump is minimal.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Swapped out my pcv valve yesterday, thanks for the push. Don't forget to swap over the insert/spacer from the old one!

TypeAcura

^Thanks guys.

For those who ordered the parts, did you get them from rockauto or curryacura? Theres also an ebay kit with the following parts...but I dont think we need all of the below, or do we?

TIMING BELT 1
WATER PUMP 1
HYDRAULIC TENSIONER 1
TIMING BELT TENSIONER 1
TIMING BELT IDLER 1
CRANKSHAFT SEAL FRONT 1
CAMSHAFT SEAL 2
VALVE COVER GASKET 2
SPARK PLUG SEAL 6
VALVE COVER BOLT SEAL 10

blueracer17

You don't need the camshaft and crankshaft seals, unless they are leaking, same goes for the spark plug seals and valve cover gaskets and bolt seals. I went with the Aisin kit from Amazon. I have the valve cover gaskets/seals for when I do my valve lash.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

At Majofo's suggestion, I picked up the vtec solenoid gaskets. I'll be swapping those too.

nfnsquared

I've used the Gates TCKWP329 kit for both TB changes. Rock solid, no issues. Have about 25K on the 2nd kit so far. Bought the first kit from Rock Auto, 2nd kit from ebay.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I think my last kit was Gates and it seemed just fine, to me.

Majofo

Crankshaft seal is preventative
Camshaft seal is probably unnecessary

Valve cover gasket, spark plug seals, and valve cover bolt seals are for Valve adjustment
Of those 3, you might be able to get away with reusing them. The spark plug seals and valve cover bolt seals are a PITA. Usually the valve cover bolt seals are reusable, if you need a new one (cracked, bent), get a new bolt with the seal attached

The spark plug seals will harden and may eventually leak, so I'd consider replacing them at some point. The valve cover gasket can also harden but the reason you want to replace them is unseating them loses that initial seal when you seated them, which usually pulls some of the seal material off. Also the seal is compressed and won't seal as well as a new one. It's cheap so if you do a valve adjustment, at minimum replace the valve cover gaskets.