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A-122: DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS*

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A-122: DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS*

 
Old 10-12-2010, 05:00 PM
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No bitch arms in this thread..
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:16 PM
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Little update.. definitely the serpentine tensioner causing the "rattle." I started the car and took tention off of the belt and the sound went away. I'm honestly thinking about just picking up the pulley only to try first. My spring seems to be fine.

It's either one of the two pulleys on the tensioner or the new belt riding on the pulleys
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Old 10-12-2010, 10:25 PM
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Amazing...just amazing...so much details
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:14 AM
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Did you notice any difference with the light weight pulley?
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:59 PM
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GREAT Write Up!
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Old 10-27-2010, 07:01 PM
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Awesome write up!!!!
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Old 11-07-2010, 10:11 PM
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i haven't do my TB yet. a week ago i am hearing winding sound coming from the belt area. it gets louder when i press on gas. i noticed that the drive belt on the belt tensioner is moving left to right about 2mm. Is this the reason why it's making the noise?

is the belt tensioner on drive belt auto adjust?
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:00 AM
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It's probably the drivebelt tensioner.
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:19 PM
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I noticed a little difference from 1st to 3rd but that's really it, mostly torque.

Yes the tensioner is auto, try turning on the AC and it should get louder, if that's what it is. From what you posted it sounds like it may be loose? Definitely get it taken care of, probably won't take much of that pulley sliding back and forth until it backs the bolt out and the pulley slides off.
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:20 PM
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oh yeah, replacing my tensioner didn't fix MY problem. I'm thinking its the P/S pump lol I'm not gonna worry unless it gets worse
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Old 11-09-2010, 07:00 AM
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Nice job Majofo! If I would have had the time to do this, I would have saved over $600!
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Old 11-23-2010, 03:26 PM
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I started my timing belt/ water pump a couple days ago. One of the bolts that holds the timing belt auto tensioner snapped in half with an 1/8" of threads sticking out of the block... Does anyone know if I take the rear engine mount out will I be able to drop that side of the engine low enough to get a drill straight on it? Its a bitch to get to, I bought a heli coil kit for it but I just need to get a drill in there somehow.

The side motor mount was completely destroyed, I took it off and it fell in half. I dont know why Honda uses such crap for mounts, my last car had the same problem. Other than these 2 things I didnt have any problems, so far. I still havent done the water pump, T-stat, or put the new belt on. I havent really done anything except take it apart I guess...

Thanks for doing this writeup, I wouldve never had the balls to go at this without these instructions
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Old 11-23-2010, 03:33 PM
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How did you manage that? I would think the hole would strip before the bolt would break..
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Old 11-23-2010, 03:56 PM
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I have no idea, the first one came out easy as hell, then the second one felt hard to turn but I kept going and then, fuck, half of the bolt came out. The factory must have crossthreaded it or something I guess, that sounds about like my luck
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Old 11-23-2010, 04:01 PM
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Can you take a pic of it for us? For now I'd spray it with PB blaster and let it soak as best you can. Let it sit for an hour or so..

Last edited by Majofo; 11-23-2010 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 11-23-2010, 05:46 PM
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Im on a Marine base and we have an auto hobby shop were we can work on our cars so its locked up in there, I gotta work tomorrow but Im gonna try to get off and go work on it so Ill take some pics. Its good cause tey have every tool you can imagine there. Hopefully I can get it done tomorrow cause if not I wont be able to work on it again til Friday or Sat. Im thinking if I remove the front and rear motor mounts I might be able to lower that side of the motor enough to drill it straight on, does that sound like a decent plan??? I dont want to lower it too much and rip out any wires or sensors. Im gonna put the old TB tensioner on with the other bolt and drill through the hole where the bolt broke so I get it straight on and it doesnt slip off into the aluminum block
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:00 PM
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I would let PB soak in there.. get the longest pair of vice grips you can find and thread it out. You need to let the PB soak for a while though.

If enough thread is poking out you you could screw two bolts on there and then put a wrench on the inside bolt to thread it out but 1/8" probably isn't enough space. Definitely hit it with some PB Blaster though. You could also heat it up but don't burn up anything in the process.
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:51 PM
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That sux. How about one of those drills that can pivot 90degs? Just gonna take a lot of patience and muscle.
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Old 11-25-2010, 05:30 AM
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I got it taken care of, took about 3hrs total just to fix the damn bolt hole. I had to remove the front mount and that wasnt enough so I dropped the subframe and that just barely lowered it enough to get at it. I drilled it, tapped it, and helicoiled it and now its good.

I have one question though, I cant figure out what "battery tie down" the OP is referring to (the last picture before step 13). I already put almost everything on, pulled the pin and got the TB covers on so its a little late now.

And when I fill it with coolant I dont close the rad cap all the way, I leave it a little loose so the air can "burp" out? Then after it heats up and the T-stat opens I turn it off and fill it the rest of the way???
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:35 AM
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Great write up
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbocoop View Post
I got it taken care of, took about 3hrs total just to fix the damn bolt hole. I had to remove the front mount and that wasnt enough so I dropped the subframe and that just barely lowered it enough to get at it. I drilled it, tapped it, and helicoiled it and now its good.

I have one question though, I cant figure out what "battery tie down" the OP is referring to (the last picture before step 13). I already put almost everything on, pulled the pin and got the TB covers on so its a little late now.

Pay no mind about the battery tie down, I had no idea to what it is and said to heck with it too lol Car is still going strong

And when I fill it with coolant I dont close the rad cap all the way, I leave it a little loose so the air can "burp" out? Then after it heats up and the T-stat opens I turn it off and fill it the rest of the way???
I filled with coolant all the way, started the car and let it idle and slowly added coolant until full. All without the cap. Then after I drove the car around the block, I burped it by twisting the cap to loose to let any air escape. Careful, shit's hot lol

As the car idles, it's going to suck coolant into the water pump area.. hince all the coolant that went everywhre when you pulled the w/p.

Good luck!
Happy Turkey Day
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Old 11-25-2010, 11:32 AM
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alright thanks, Ill finish it up saturday on my day off
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Old 11-25-2010, 09:29 PM
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Again, great write up. I gotta do this SOON! Where did you get the tool to hold the CP still? Do I need to track down a tool truck? BTW good job Turbocoop and thanks for your service.
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Old 11-26-2010, 08:18 AM
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04ack, the tool can be rented from O'Reiley, AutoZone etc for FREE. Requires $50 deposit upon which you receive back when you bring the tool back. Go ahead and get it, you'll need it
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Old 11-27-2010, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by '04ack View Post
Again, great write up. I gotta do this SOON! Where did you get the tool to hold the CP still? Do I need to track down a tool truck? BTW good job Turbocoop and thanks for your service.
thanks man, I actually used to live in Gville I went to Greenville Tech Auto Technician Program... You might be able to get it from auto-zone with the loan a tool program. Ask for the 50mm honda crank pulley tool. If not its like $50
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Old 11-27-2010, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by AMUA6 View Post
04ack, the tool can be rented from O'Reiley, AutoZone etc for FREE. Requires $50 deposit upon which you receive back when you bring the tool back. Go ahead and get it, you'll need it
haha, beat me to it
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:44 PM
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Thanks for the DIY guide. I am in need of it as of 5K miles ago!
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Old 11-27-2010, 06:02 PM
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I finished her off today, it runs great. The shoe-goo in the side motor mount helped a lot, it used to jerk real hard when I started it, now its way smoother.
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:17 AM
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I'm torn as to if I want to attempt this or not. I think I could do the listed procedures fairly well, but it's those unanticipated problems that make me rethink it.

I've got the time, I've got the place to do it, I've got the tools, and I've got the experience. I just don't know if I've got the tolerance for the stress if any issues come up.
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:49 PM
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i have a question about the tensioner pulley torque spec.

it is listed at 19ft lbs.. that isnt very tight imo.

what if i have aftermarket motor mounts... i have a feeling the 85a bushigns would vibrate that bolt loose.
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by CocheseUGA View Post
I'm torn as to if I want to attempt this or not. I think I could do the listed procedures fairly well, but it's those unanticipated problems that make me rethink it.

I've got the time, I've got the place to do it, I've got the tools, and I've got the experience. I just don't know if I've got the tolerance for the stress if any issues come up.
Do it
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Old 12-01-2010, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by e r y k View Post
i have a question about the tensioner pulley torque spec.

it is listed at 19ft lbs.. that isnt very tight imo.

what if i have aftermarket motor mounts... i have a feeling the 85a bushigns would vibrate that bolt loose.
Loctite them down to 19ft/lbs.
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbocoop View Post
I got it taken care of, took about 3hrs total just to fix the damn bolt hole. I had to remove the front mount and that wasnt enough so I dropped the subframe and that just barely lowered it enough to get at it. I drilled it, tapped it, and helicoiled it and now its good.

I have one question though, I cant figure out what "battery tie down" the OP is referring to (the last picture before step 13). I already put almost everything on, pulled the pin and got the TB covers on so its a little late now.

And when I fill it with coolant I dont close the rad cap all the way, I leave it a little loose so the air can "burp" out? Then after it heats up and the T-stat opens I turn it off and fill it the rest of the way???
Battery tie down is to secure the tensioner from springing back but glad to see it's unnecessary.. It's what I expected and read elsewhere but I followed the manual anyways. In regards to burping, that's pretty much it. I think I filled the res almost to the max line and topped off as needed. While on topic the res should only be filled to the min or above min line when cold but since some air escapes during the process and some of the coolant seeps out filling just below the max line should be okay. Make sure you pack plenty of shop towels around the res cap or a pan underneath to catch the coolant. I'd go with towels just to keep things clean otherwise just spray it down later.

Originally Posted by Turbocoop View Post
I finished her off today, it runs great. The shoe-goo in the side motor mount helped a lot, it used to jerk real hard when I started it, now its way smoother.
I'm going with 3M window weld but glad to see the shoe-goo is doing the trick. Check back later on and give us a review.

Originally Posted by CocheseUGA View Post
I'm torn as to if I want to attempt this or not. I think I could do the listed procedures fairly well, but it's those unanticipated problems that make me rethink it.

I've got the time, I've got the place to do it, I've got the tools, and I've got the experience. I just don't know if I've got the tolerance for the stress if any issues come up.


Murphy does indeed exist. I think if you have the resources and patience it should be fine.

Originally Posted by e r y k View Post
i have a question about the tensioner pulley torque spec.

it is listed at 19ft lbs.. that isnt very tight imo.

what if i have aftermarket motor mounts... i have a feeling the 85a bushigns would vibrate that bolt loose.
The motor mounts are used to dampen the vibrations to the chassis. Installing harder poly doesn't increase the vibrations to the motor it increases the stability of the motor by extending the shock to the chassis.
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:34 PM
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Thanks guys for the info
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:52 AM
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Thanks for the DIY!! i will be using it in a couple of weeks!!
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:04 PM
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Decided to take the plunge and do this myself along with the valve adjustment. Should be a piece of cake using this excellent DIY along with the SM (assuming I can get that %^#$! bolt off)

For those who are contemplating this, there is an excellent discussion on crank pulley bolt removal methods in the UR pulley thread (post #4):

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=612971&page=1

I plan to basically do the same as Majofo, but refined a bit using Bearcat's recommendations in post #149 of that same thread.

I've ordered the Gates TCKWP329 kit (TB, pump, idler, adjuster, tensioner) from rockauto for $188 shipped.

Got a couple of questions before I get started:

1. Majofo (or anyone that's done this): did you have to file off the end of the battery clamp like it shows in the SM?

2. Anyone know how much harder it is to turn the crank with the spark plugs in on our J-series V6?
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared View Post
Decided to take the plunge and do this myself along with the valve adjustment. Should be a piece of cake using this excellent DIY along with the SM (assuming I can get that %^#$! bolt off)

For those who are contemplating this, there is an excellent discussion on crank pulley bolt removal methods in the UR pulley thread (post #4):

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=612971&page=1

I plan to basically do the same as Majofo, but refined a bit using Bearcat's recommendations in post #149 of that same thread.

I've ordered the Gates TCKWP329 kit (TB, pump, idler, adjuster, tensioner) from rockauto for $188 shipped.

Got a couple of questions before I get started:

1. Majofo (or anyone that's done this): did you have to file off the end of the battery clamp like it shows in the SM?

2. Anyone know how much harder it is to turn the crank with the spark plugs in on our J-series V6?
1. I did, probably not necessary..

2. With a decent size breaker bar it shouldn't be hard, it might even help with precise adjustment. With the plugs out it seemed a little too sensitive.. I ended up rocking 1-2 teeth back and forth until I eventually got it lined up.


GL! I'll never forget hearing that CP Bolt pop. It's like a sweet melody playing in my mind.
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Majofo View Post
...GL! I'll never forget hearing that CP Bolt pop. It's like a sweet melody playing in my mind.
Yeah, hope I hear that same tune on Friday....Pretty sure I will, but if not I have a back up plan: the base auto hobby shop 3/4" 1400 ft/lb impact wrench.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:05 PM
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If that gun doesn't do it, nothing will.
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Old 01-10-2011, 09:18 PM
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Done! Whew!!

What a PITA those rear tb cover bolts are!!

Definitely take Mojofo's advice and remove the drive belt auto-tensioner. The SM manual doesn't cover that. Don't really see how this job can be done without taking that thing off.

I left my plugs in. To me, it seems most of the effort to turn the crank is valve spring resistance (more on this later).

When re-assembling, be sure you put the side mount bracket on before you put on the lower tb cover. Oopsy!

Had everything TDC and pulled the old belt off. Reached over to get the new belt and heard a "clang". Thought a tool dropped. Looked around the floor of the garage, nothing. Oh well. Went to put the new belt on and WTF, the rear cam sprocket was off about 1/8 turn CW. Cranked it CCW to TDC, lots of pressure so I pulled the rear plugs just to be sure. Cranked it back, still the same pressure, pulling the plugs didn't make any difference.

Got it to TDC but went just a little too far and "clang", the sprocket spun 1/8 turn CCW. So, moral of the story is there is a "sweet spot" right at TDC. Go either side of that and the valve spring pressure may spin the cam. No big deal, just move it back to TDC.

FYI, the Gates kit from Rock Auto was 100% OE.

Did the valve adjustment as well. Valve train just a noisy as before...
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