Majofo

Hopefully it just needs a valve adjustment.. worst case is bent valve/s or blown rings.

btw.. what was the actual pressure readings on all cyls?

nfnsquared

Interesting. How does an engine that's seems to be running fine suddenly lose compression in one cylinder after a TB change?

Maybe the belt was indeed off after the first attempt and you bent a valve?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

now u guys know why i didnt do this on my own

nfnsquared

Nothing's been proved yet, I'm just speculating trying to figure out what happened.

Morrissey25

iTrader: (4)

Great write up. Thank you for taking the time out to do this for the community. Not sure if I will be able to tackle this one by myself... If I do, I still have another 60K miles to go before I make up my mind...

saturated_fat

Hmm, I'll know more today I have to go talk with the guy working on the car.

If the timing was indeed off it was not more than a tooth. That said I really would caution against doing this yourself as there seems to be VERY LITTLE room for error.

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

Majo, could you verify the part # on the idler pulley? I've got 31190-RCA-A02 and 14550-RCA-A01. I believe it's the first one I'm getting ready to do this next weekend.

nfnsquared

Hmmm...If you google both part #'s, it appears they both fit a 2004TL. According to acurapartswarehouse.com, the part # is 14550-RCA-A01.....

http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/P...gPicture=False

Majofo

I would opt for the P/N: 14550-RCA-A01 since it's the current part being sold by Acura dealers. Sometimes with an updated design or change in mfg of the component, they'll revise the P/N.

Auto Tensioner: 14520-RCA-A01
Adjuster: 14510-RCA-A01
Idler Pulley: 14550-RCA-A01

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

Alright thanks guys. I'm about to place my order

I'm going to use acuraoemparts.com, thoughts?

nfnsquared

You might consider checking the AZine vendor directory first for a price match...or Azine discount.

https://acurazine.com/forums/vendor_directory.php

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

Dang, I coulda swore Delray Acura was a vendor on here haha I'll be calling Kaleb over at Prestige now. Thanks nfns

Majofo

I think Prestige has that timing belt kit special.. they might even do a special on the associated parts!

nfnsquared

Yeah, sorry AMU, thought you already had the kit and were just looking for extra parts. From what I've read, Kaleb will be happy to add extras if he has them in stock. Here's the thread for his deal:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/complete-timing-belt-kit-special-%24295-763445/

mb1976

On picture #4 it looks like you had busted passenger side motor mount. How did your front and rear motor mounts look??

vstyle444

nice pics n details..how much you spend in parts?

nfnsquared

Read post # 134 and go to the link in that post...

Majofo

my side mount is toast.. so I'm pretty sure my front mount has taken a beating. No knock or symptoms of front mount compromise though. No symptoms of a bad rear mount as well. I'm contemplating layering some window weld as a fix. Side mount is cheap but I know sooner or later it'll fail again.

I bought all the parts from MisterFubar.. He sold his TL and had a great deal in the blackmarket on these parts. The retail on the parts I bought from him are in the 350-450 range. This was a full kit so if you buy the kit special from prestige, you'll need to add on the add'l items not included.

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

^^ I bought the kit forever ago it seems, and just now picking up the idler pulley According to Kaleb, it'll be here by Friday

mb1976

My side mount has a 1 hairline crack and of course the dealer is going to replace that under warranty but, when I had asked about the front motor mounts as well as the rear they said they were all fine including the transmission mounts. I can see the transmission and maybe a rear being ok but the front ones being ok sounds impossible being that the side passenger mount has a hair line crack. Could that be possible just that one on side while the rest is fine???

Majofo

They could still be okay.. but I bet they'd say differently if you weren't in the warranty period.

Hondaforlife954

Majofo,

been searching around and wanted to know your thoughts on the 60k service? Minus inspection of parts and fluids, replace spark plugs, filters, anything else i should look into doing?

Thanks for your input... and great right ups!

WyldRice

Dreading having to pay hundreds for a shop to do this.
It looks pretty easy for the first 6-7 steps... I can get the tools... but by step 9-10 it started getting beyond my ability. By step 30-35 I knew I would gladly be paying someone hundreds of dollars to NOT mess up the wife's car! Too many things could go wrong with me doing it alone.
Great Detailed Post! Saved me thousands (probably)

JSilver

So everything you've replaced are also the things that would be replaced at an Acura Dealership?

Just wondering, so I know what to purchase online soon.

Thanks.

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

Well Majo, tomorrow is the big day for me. Have all my parts laying out in the garage, car on stands, right front wheel off. Still debating if I should pick up the hex tool to help remove the CP or not.. Not sure if the impact can break it loose I'll probably pick one up to be safe.

Oh yeah, I'm expecting a lightweight pulley to come via FedEx tomorrow to replace the boat anchor stock CP

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

Completed this last night. Started around 6 and finished at 11, and that includes cleaning. I had a friend helping so that cut a lot of time out.

The hardest part is removing the dang timing covers, after that it's a piece of cake.

I'll be checking the valves next weekend. Thanks again Majo!

Hondaforlife954

Take any pics?

nfnsquared

Why? Are there not enough pictures on the first page of this thread?

Hondaforlife954

Oh there is plenty, just wondering if he did....

Bonksnp

Sweet Lord in Heaven OP!!! NICE JOB on the writeup!

I didn't see a write-up before but now that I have pictures to guide me through I think I'll set aside a weekend and do it.

This is why I love AcuraZine!!!

BTW: I replaced my spark-plugs ~75k miles and I'm at ~105k now. Should I change the plugs again when doing this? IIRC the plugs that I got (which were like a mid-grade quality) should last for a pretty long time.

Soonermagic

Very impressive in the detail of the write up! I am a tad confused on the logic of replacing the water pump (assuming it is not leaking). Is it the hassle of the timing belt so you might as well replace it (along with the thermostat) during the same job?

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

Yes ^^ Might as well replace the water pump the first time instead of going back in the motor later, right?



Here's the only picture I took.

Majo, I got a funny noise this morning coming from the belt area that sounds like something is loose. I did install an aftermarket lightweight CP and I verified earlier that it is tight. The sound just started this morning and I did my TB Saturday. I'm thinking/hoping it's the serpentine tensioner. EVERYTHING behind the timing covers was replaced for the timing belt job. Any advice on troubleshooting before I buy the part?

Majofo

More than likely it's the serpentine idler pulley / auto tensioner. Go ahead and take off the drive belt and turn the car on.. see if it goes away. Or simply spray some belt dressing on it. The auto tensioner has two marks on the body and the arm should line up in between.. if it doesn't then it's out of spec.

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the quick reply sir. I will be further investigating this evening, from the other threads I've read it's the tensioner. Hopefully I'll pick one up tomorrow and fix that little red wagon

Majofo

Water pumps typically fail after the first timing belt change. So it's better to replace it while everything is apart and open. With regards to the tstat, the block is dry so replacing it was a no brainer. I noticed the car running better during the summer heat after the change, so I wouldn't be surprised if it had already gone out of spec.

No need to change them at this time. It makes it a bit easier to turn the crank with them out, otherwise leave them in. I assume you used NGK Iridiums?



Imagine trying to remove the front cover without removing the serpentine belt tensioner like I attempted. The service manual didn't state the removal so I didn't. Needless to say I ripped that page out of the service manual and wiped my ass with it.

No.. So if you go to the dealership, make sure they itemize everything replaced here and make sure they give you all the old parts.

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

I would've pissed on that paper after wiping my ass with it.

WyldRice

See! If I attempted this job by myself, THIS is what would happen...
Then I'd be in the doghouse with the wifeypoo for months!
to the Stealership I go... with money in hand.


If they screw it up, They can fix it again!

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

^^^ It's really not that bad lol It was my first time changing one on a car. The serpentine tensioner is just something that wears out on a vehicle over time. Whadda ya expect? I can't complain, I've never had any problems out of the car so I don't mind to replace the tensioner lol

nfnsquared

AMU...Did the impact wrench work or did you have to use the hex tool? What were the specs on the wrench?

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

I definitely had to use the hex tool. I rented it from O'Reiley just in case. The impact with 130 lbs of air pushing it wouldn't budge it lol It's a Craftsman impact, not sure of the model. Definitely not their biggest but not their smallest either

Had to use a breaker bar and the hex tool to remove it though. Once you get over the initial "pop," it's all over but the cryin' lol