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Well, I'll be working on it when I get off work. Hopefully it's something stupid (unrelated to timing belt) that I overlooked. If he can make it out here, will have a mechanic (family friend) working on it.
Forgot to take a video of the sound, but will post whatever the problem/solution is.
Oops, this is a followup to my post #1473 a few days ago.
Here's the belt after I removed the front timing belt cover, which you really need to remove the serpentine first to get to and also get a buddy to hold the serpentine tensioner back while you get the last bolt out. Same buddy cranked the engine until I got to this point.
I send the photo to Gates and they got back to me in a couple hours (on a weekend!) and said it's not the OEM belt and the "329" belt is a replacement belt. So I'm good for another 105k or so.
1-2 teeth off at the cams you would be lucky for it to run at all. At the crank it wouldn't run. If a cam or cams are a tooth off there will be no doubt they're off. If you have to wonder, you're probably ok.
So, apparently I'm not completely incompetent. Had someone look at it and the timing is correct. The noise is from the lifters. What's that connection on the top back of engine? There is some noise from that every now and then.
Also, I think the crankshaft position sensor is shot. How hard is it to replace if that's what I do?
1-2 teeth off at the cams you would be lucky for it to run at all. At the crank it wouldn't run. If a cam or cams are a tooth off there will be no doubt they're off. If you have to wonder, you're probably ok.
Meh, dunno, Mondo375 was off one tooth on the rear cam and it ran fairly well according to his post.
Originally Posted by Mondo375
I had an issue over the weekend with the rear cam going clockwise about 30 degrees, when pulling the cam back to throw the belt on it went counter clockwise. About the same if not more but with quickness. When I rotated it back it spring back to its originally place, 30 degrees clockwise past the mark where it started. I had to hold the rear cam close enough to the mark so it didn't rotste back in order to slide belt on and keep timing In rear in place.
Would the rotating of it going back and forth cause any valve damage? It fired up and runs what seems to be fine but definitely sounds different. Like Subaru different. Could it be off a tooth? No check engine lights or anything for misfires.
Originally Posted by 94eg!
Off by one tooth should be fine on a SOHC since both intake & exhaust are effected the same. It's DOHC motors where you worry about "clicking" distance where the intake & exhaust valves might make contact.
Either way I've said a prayer for you.
Originally Posted by Rhydon
So, apparently I'm not completely incompetent. Had someone look at it and the timing is correct. The noise is from the lifters. What's that connection on the top back of engine? There is some noise from that every now and then.
Also, I think the crankshaft position sensor is shot. How hard is it to replace if that's what I do?
Did you mean injectors?
For the sensor, you have to remove the crank pulley, so that part is a PITA. After that, replacing the sensor is easy.
You might just try driving it around and see if it clears itself and/or go to someplace with an HDS and have them do a CKP learn procedure.
The SM calls for a CKP learn procedure after a TB change, but so far (IIRC) none of us Azine members have had any issues not doing it.
Thinking of buying a crankshaft position sensor due to the CEL P0389, which then led to misfire codes. I can buy it new at $90, or used (condition - very good) at $37.
Really want to pay the lesser amount, through Amazon. If the sensor is bad, replacing it should fix the rough idle and misfires.
This should just leave me with lifter noise.
Would like a little input. Obviously, in a perfect world where money is never an issue, buying new is the best way to go.
If it were a bigger difference in price, I would say go used. But for 50 bucks... personally I would go new. Not sure how to state the condition of a sensor, I bet yours "looks" to be in very good condition too.
In my OP, I'm pretty sure I said don't eff with the CKP sensor even though I believe the SM advises to remove/unplug it. This was coming from advice given to me by acuratech who was the top master tech at Acura here until he opened his own shop. I also think it's a bit ridiculous to have lifter noise suddenly. I wish you the best of luck going forward, but it sounds like you're going down the wrong path. At some point, you might want to consider taking it to an experienced tech. There are many associated posts with that CEL, replacement of the CKP sensor, and issues persisting.
Thinking of buying a crankshaft position sensor due to the CEL P0389, which then led to misfire codes. I can buy it new at $90, or used (condition - very good) at $37.
Really want to pay the lesser amount, through Amazon. If the sensor is bad, replacing it should fix the rough idle and misfires.
This should just leave me with lifter noise.
Would like a little input. Obviously, in a perfect world where money is never an issue, buying new is the best way to go.
You didn't mention other misfire codes? If you have other misfire codes then it can be your timing belt not correct.
Have you taken it apart yet? You might just have a loose connection at the CKP sensor or cut wire. If you are tight on funds try what doesn't cost you anything first!
In my OP, I'm pretty sure I said don't eff with the CKP sensor even though I believe the SM advises to remove/unplug it. This was coming from advice given to me by acuratech who was the top master tech at Acura here until he opened his own shop. I also think it's a bit ridiculous to have lifter noise suddenly. I wish you the best of luck going forward, but it sounds like you're going down the wrong path. At some point, you might want to consider taking it to an experienced tech. There are many associated posts with that CEL, replacement of the CKP sensor, and issues persisting.
I've never messed with it so far. Never unplugged. I agree with the lifter noise, but I've read multiple forums of people having the same issue, regardless of car. Due to time, work, and it being my only car, it's about to go to a shop. I just don't want to take it, they ready the CKP code, and charge out the a$$ to replace it whether it fixes the problem or not.
It's $90 on Amazon, $167 at Advance. So I would be looking at $200+ for the sensor + 2-4hrs labor. These are the things I would like to avoid before ultimately turning it in.
I will take it apart Friday (b-day) and check the timing. The old belt (looks good, no cracks) is on right now. I put it on lining it up with the original white-out marks I made to make sure the timing was correct. Rotated it all the way back to one TDC and everything lined up.
A mechanic looked at it and said timing was correct and it was the lifters making the noise. This is why I'm looking at the CKP sensor and wires, since I have a code and symptoms for it.
Question for the TL guys, I have an 07 Accord V6. How many of you saw leaking crankshaft seal after 200k miles? I'm at 203000 miles. And how difficult is it to remove the crankshaft gear? thanks!
Question for the TL guys, I have an 07 Accord V6. How many of you saw leaking crankshaft seal after 200k miles? I'm at 203000 miles. And how difficult is it to remove the crankshaft gear? thanks!
I'm at 203K also. I had no leaks at 106.5K when I changed the TB and as near as I can tell (which may not be saying much without the cam sprokets exposed), still no leaks. I did not change the seals then.
I'll be doing my next TB change in a few months (probably in November would be my guess), so I'll know more then.
Thanks guys. I just don't want to disturb something that isn't causing problems so I rather not touch the seals at all and cause myself extra headaches. Some guys on here seem to go the extra miles to replace all seals, even the radiator cap?! Paranoia to the highest level?
Question for the TL guys, I have an 07 Accord V6. How many of you saw leaking crankshaft seal after 200k miles? I'm at 203000 miles. And how difficult is it to remove the crankshaft gear? thanks!
Mine was leaking at 103K when I did my timing belt.
Remove crank sensor, drill two small holes just enough to get sheet rock screws started and pull out with pliers. Put a little oil on the new seal inside & out. Tap in slowly till its flush.
The engine block, and the outside of new seal are supposed to be clean & dry. The inside of the new seal is often pre-lubed with grease (at least my OEM D-series cam seal was).
The crank gear just slides right off once the main pulley & timing covers are removed. On some Hondas you have to un-bolt the Crank position sensor and move it out of the way 1st. According to this picture that appears to be the case with the TL. That silver plate wrapping around the bottom is the crank-trigger. Just unbolt it and swing it out of the way (don't un-plug it).
This post was probably the biggest help for my project. So far, 100mi after and it seems to be doing good. I still have the "post project jitters", paying attention to every little sound and throttle change. "Was that there before?" Big thanks to Acurazine.
Big huge THANK YOU to everyone for your posts & especially Majofo! Every little comment & thought you guys posted on here helped me out.
After reading every post since 2010 (for five years!) I finally performed this DIY with the Aisin Amazon kit. This kit is of the highest quality. The old water pump said Aisin as does the new pump. The engine block itself was stamped with the Aisin brand.
Everything went fine except I had to reinstall some parts because I put them on out of sequence! FYI - The engine mount base plate goes on before the lower timing belt cover! Also, you can leave the tensioner pulley partially installed into the water pump (but not so deep so as to be threaded into the engine block) so that you can use it as a lever to pull the water pump off. No more banging on the water pump pulley. It peels right off the engine block very easily this way.
I also changed the spark plugs. The engine runs like a sewing machine now & idle is completely vibration free at the steering wheel.
Driving to Jersey next month to get the hookup on getting this big service done. After getting more confused by 94eg's latest gates thread... What are the good parts to get?
I'll do the incredibly noobish thing here if anyone wants to play...
I'll paypal someone $10 to give me a current list of URLs for the best parts/kits to buy.
Why are you going to NJ to get the timing belt kit installed? I live in North Dayton (probably an hour away from you) and do these jobs all the time in my garage. I have been a full service self employed Honda/Acura tech for 5 years.
Not trying to sell work as I already have a full time job in another profession as well and do not need more work but I love to help people out close to me as driving 8+ hours one way seems pointless.
Last edited by musiclevelz5; 08-11-2015 at 12:53 PM.
Best friend is the parts manager of an Acura dealership in NJ. I got the hookup on parts and one of her guys is doing the work on the side. I'm dropping it off Friday, picking it up Sunday, and boating the days in between. So it's a vacation with perks.
I could do it myself I just don't really care to. Thanks for the offer though man!
06-18-2015, 01:44 PM
Matt!
Go buy yourself a beer for a job well done. 
