94eg!

Off by one tooth should be fine on a SOHC since both intake & exhaust are effected the same. It's DOHC motors where you worry about "clicking" distance where the intake & exhaust valves might make contact.

Either way I've said a prayer for you.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

whew...I'm sure he'll be happy to hear that.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

So yea looks off by a tooth with covers off as well. Much faster disassembling this time round. Too late for me to fire up my compressor to remove crank pulley so it have to wait till morning. Thanks guys!

Majofo

sucks.. but you should be fine. I did mention in the DIY to double triple check the marks.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

lol

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

oh, Maj is that kinda friend, huh...

Majofo

warterdesmanne

Got her apart and water pump, adjuster, tensioner, and idler back in. The Honda idler bolt did come with threadlock pre applied and I splurged on the rest of the bolts that the fsm suggested and I am glad I did, most were corroding after 130k in central Ohio. Let you guys know how it turns out.

Out of curiosity some items like the water pump call for 8.7 foot pounds, a few pounds extra won't hurt much correct? It was hard to fit even a 3/8 torque wrench in there. As long as they are pretty even all is okay correct?

nfnsquared

I wouldn't push my luck. If the bolts didn't snap on you, you probably are OK. Try that on the valve cover bolts and you'll be sorry....

warterdesmanne

So as applying torque the wrench clicked but then still traveled less than a 1/3 turn. You're telling me this will "snap" the bolt?

nfnsquared

94eg!

You can always practice on a different bolt. Just set your torque wrench to the desired spec, and make it click over & over on some other fixed bolt. You should get a decent feel for that amount of torque. Then use your regular ratchet to apply the same feel to your hard to get to bolts. Just be sure to hold your ratchet handle at the same distance from the head as you did with your torque wrench.

hand closer = under-torqued
hand further = over-torqued

Majofo

I'd be more worried about stripping out the threads. What a PITA it would be to helicoil it.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I made sure to use a 1/4" ratchet on that...and held it kinda in my palm when tightening, not at the end...

when you hit the threshold on the bolt, you don't even need a quarter turn...it'll just snap off. Then you will cry.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

Well all is good now! Thanks Maj for the DIY and thanks everyone for the help along the way!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

So it was a tooth off?

warterdesmanne

Finished up, all seems fine I'll post some long term results. I can't thank you guys enough.

Majofo

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Did my oil, Mobil EP...and seafoam. Nothing blew up and my placebo reservoir is fully clean now.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

Yea it was off by a tooth the first go round

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Oof...got lucky then! I'm relieved FOR YOU!

warterdesmanne

Figured I would post a few pics. I managed to get a shot of the ever elusive battery tie down adjuster step... A few notes on that, it seemed to be important to have in place before pulling the pin on the adjuster as it held this in place and slowly eased the tension onto the belt.

Thinking about it leads me to think if one were to grind the tip as suggested it would reduce drag when installing the tie down before belt removal. I mention this because I noticed once the top made contact it could not be hand tightened further I assume from the rough surfaces. The threads also seemed tighter at the end maybe to hold the nut on when it is in use as a battery tie down.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Nice, man...very well done. Thanks for sharing. :thumbups:

JETSPD1477

Finished up earlier this afternoon. Took about 6 hours which included a lunch break and misc gawking and beer breaks. I've done many Honda 4cyl TB replacements but this is my first V6. Reading the OP before starting coupled with my trusty Helms manual made everything smooth and painless.

warterdesmanne

Bad ass mang, hope all your other adventures go well.

shamal

A huge thanks to everyone on this post, I just did mine, it went very smoothly because of all the info I had from posts like this.
Here are some pics of the Aisin kit and the removed parts, identical as far as I could tell. Also a pdf of the Aisin instructions. My old parts looked very good, considering the mileage, and I understand what those plastic covers have all the bolts and gaskets. You can see how clean the belt/water pump area is.
I had to take the timing belt off the pulleys a couple of times to get the slack all at the tensioner, I think the new belt is a little stiff. Once in place I pulled the bracket ( 99 2nd Gen vehicle ) and the timing marks all lined up perfect.

BengalsIronMan

Just wanted to give a big thanks to Majofo for the write up and to everyone else who threw some info in and advice. I just did the major service yesterday as well as adjusted the valves. I was a little over 9k over due but the belts looked to be in pretty good shape, the tensioner and pulleys all looked to be in really good shape as well. Once I got around to changing the plugs I noticed the coil pack at valve two was really stuck, almost like it was rusted in. After I finally got it out I found the plug wasn't even cranked down as I was able to remove it by hand.

Also: Acura quoted me at $1400 to do the belt, valves and tune up. I did it myself and saved over $1100!! Thanks again to everyone in this thread

nfnsquared

How far off were the valves?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

How would one measure how easily the feeler gauges slid back and forth between the valves? What would be an adequate response to keep the thread on topic? The topic is helping and achieving your own timing belt service. Your question doesn't do that, especially since the response will have to be "it slid back and forth real good and felt loose".

If there's another way to measure how far off, I apologize in advance.

Please stay on topic.

nfnsquared

Dude, really? Grow up. Post reported.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

So, you think you will come into a thread and tell me when/where I can post?

Then you mention growing up? Laughable.

You can't take your own medicine, bottom line.

Please, enlighten me as to what value you added with your very vague question that will require a very subjective response. How did that help with the course of this thread and staying on topic?

Report away...I hope the mods eventually tell you to quit your whining. Stop dishing it if you can't take it.

You're actually pretty helpful and knowledgeable. Drop the Napoleon complex and take it easy.

94eg!

To tell how far off your valves were, you would keep switching to thicker or thinner feelers until you found one that dragged properly. Then you would calculate the difference between your "measured result", and "in spec". Then you would share that info with everyone here.

If you didn't take the time to do that extra work for your own understanding, then normally you would politely share that fact and move on.

I have never taken a "before" actual-measurement myself. Sounds like it would make the job take much longer. I just stick the "in-spec" gauge in there and adjust as necessary.

Majofo

JD TL-S

iTrader: (1)

I Have great skills and all tools needed, But I am nervous to do this.
Thankyou for the awesome write-up DIY

JD TL-S

iTrader: (1)

So many pages to search through.
Not complaining.
Q: I found a kit on Amazon called:
Aisin TKH-002 Engine Timing Belt Kit with water pump
Retail $466 for $204. Is this kit what I sould use ?
Or any suggestions would be great.
The Review states the Timing Belt is Mitsubushi, not Honda.
Also suggested is to get a New Goodyear Poly-V Drive belt
and New Motorad Fail-safe thermostat.
Thankyou for this great DIY. I am not sure I should do this myself.
I have great skills and all the tools needed. ?

Atlas_Gen

That's the exact same kit that I bought too but I ordered it on RockAuto. I still need to install the kit though.

nfnsquared

The Aisin kit or the Gates kit are both fine. Do a search, there are a couple of threads on kit pricing where you can maybe find a link to a better price, dunno.

I used the Gates kit and it's been fine now for 85K miles (currently at 191K).

94eg!

Personally I will be doing the following so I will have a completely OEM setup for less money:

- OEM Honda Yamada (YNA) brand water pump (yes it's expensive ~$120)
- Gates TCK329 kit (includes same-as-OEM Gates/Unitta belt & same-as-OEM Koyo rollers ~$54)
- Aisin BTH-001 Tensioner (same-as-OEM ~$57)

Amazon seems to have the best price on TCK329 & BTH-001 right now. Some other places will match them though. Internet prices seem to fluctuate a lot lately. Amazon bumped up the price of Gates kit while it was in my cart once. It's now back down again.

Total cost is around $240 with shipping of the pump.

BTW: I do have the full Gates kit on my wife's 04 Pilot and it's been going well for 40k now

94eg!

BTW: Here is proof the OEM timing belt is Unitta (Gates in the USA) and not Mitsuboshi like others have said in this thread. Not sure if I posted this before:

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That actually makes me happy.