swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I adapt

when hot, toe open baby....unlike people in FL who wear crocs all year long

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Betty banned crocs. I used to though!
Dey slippery when wet though, friggin dangerous!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ awesome....Betty has great taste IMO....

CROCS should be banned

Majofo

Take it to the ramblings thread you nimrods

spartan76

Forgot to mention this....when i recently did my timing belt job, the acura tech that loosened my CP bolt, when i told him i'm doing the thermostat said "I wouldn't bother, on the 2004 and newer TL's, in 10 years I've repaired one that failed. They never do, just wait till it blows, which won't happen"

The honda tech that helped me confirmed on the Honda V6 accords she's only fixed one or two, said "yeah it's optional in my opinion"

94eg!

I have a 25 yr old Honda with it's original thermostat. Still works perfectly.

I have/had 5 Hondas total over the years and the only time I had to replace a thermostat was on a imported JDM motor swap. It was stuck open. I imagine the engine sat in a yard or warehouse for some time with no coolant in the hoses. This must have ruined the thermostat.

I don't replace them as "regular maintenance".

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

It wasn't too much money to buy a new one, maybe I'll return it though. Is it somewhere that access is much easier while doing the TB service? Or is it just as easy to get to any time?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ might be a good idea to do it now since for the thermostat you will have to drain the fluid to replace the thermostat....

when you do the TB job, you drain the fluid anyway right, so might not be a bad idea to do it now, else you will either have to wait until the next time you have to do the job (another 105K) or if the thermostat fails (which is made clear that it might not happen)....

Majofo

It's not the failure of the tstat, it's the spec. It's common for the tstat to go out of spec when opening and closing.

94eg!

And yet the cars always stay within their "normal" operating range. Even in 120* heat of Las Vegas. Just saying.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I'm actually considering changing out the top/bottom radiator hoses while I'm at it too...they seem flexible still and have no signs of dry rot but they're one of those things that tend to burst at the most inopportune time and they're now 10 years old.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

they hold up just fine....I recently changed that to run a higher psi rad cap (which I never got to)...

if you want to change a hose out, look into the 2 hoses which take the coolant from the block to the TB and back....those had gotten "brittle" if you will....I swapped them out when I did the TB coolant bypass....

Majofo

Hoses are probably fine.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, they're $27 for both on Amazon. Good peace of mind. We'll see.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^Agreed. If everything is going to be drained and apart why not spend that extra little for new and sexier hoses?

Are there quicker to open thermostats for the J?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I'm "the J"?

nokiaboy808

was anybody recommended to change the oil pump seals? my acura dealership told me that it tends to leak and is a common problem so it should also be changed when doing your 105k maintenance. Another private shop that specializes in acuras told me the same thing...

94eg!

Nope. I still have my original front main seal on my 89 CRX with 225k miles (using Redline Synthetic).

ez12a

in most cases its a very minor leak like the RMS, unless something like that bugs you.

cars are such unrefined machines in general, it's bound to leak one fluid or another.

JJH

iTrader: (1)

I changed both the front and rear main seals along with the cam seals when I did the 105k service and clutch install.

It's a piece of mind thing for me. I would rather not have to get in there again if they did start leaking profusely, which is totally unlikely.

ROBBIEVO

Do you guys recommend going above the timing belt and water pump? I was told nothing but those 2 items needed to be replaced, but everything else I see the tensioner etc is also replaced.

ez12a

i would, since you can get all 5 pieces (tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, water pump, belt) in a kit for less than $200.

You're already in there, you might as well change them. They're a simple bolt on affair. Plus do you really want to trust those pulleys and bearings for another 100k miles?

Majofo

ho, long time no see braddah. The oil pump seal does leak. I didn't do a reseal on mine because I didn't see a leak but it is common. It's not like the seal will catastrophically fail and you'll be replacing a quart a week. If you do reseal the pump, get the vtec solenoid valve filter and oil pump o-rings. You can see them pictured in my kit (currently in a box in my garage)

btw, how much they want to charge you to reseal + tb job?

Majofo

Rob, as you can see from the DIY and from posts from other members, the other components were showing signs of failure. Judge for yourself.

ROBBIEVO

Ya kinda figured that, just wanted to make sure. Anything else I should be looking at? I just bought it last weekend. Probably gonna order new mounts as well.

Majofo

Definitely a good time to replace the side engine mount. As you can see, mine was destroyed.

The auto tensioner for the drive belt might also be on it's way out. Mine is still running well, but there are few members here who eventually replaced theirs after going out of spec.

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Vtec solenoid seal located almost directly above where the oil pan drain plug is. Very common for it to start leaking. The oil pools on the bottom of the drain pain and most think that the drain plug bolt is leaking when in reality it's the vtec solenoid seal. That was also replaced.

Serpentine belt tensioner if you have a chirping noise in the morning.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

the list keeps growing!

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Hoff is going way above and beyond what he really needed to do. I assume partially because he was in extra deep because of the clutch.

If you're not doing the clutch a lot of that stuff, unless they are issues, don't need to be touched.

JJH

iTrader: (1)

Yes I'm anal it's not necessary to do all of those seals I just did em because why not? They are relatively cheap and not much extra work/labor.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, Chad...
I take the same approach, Justin...but I won't be replacing clutch, obviously so I'll limit myself.

iKnowrite

Thanks For The Image Really Helpful

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ i know rite

Majofo

This is not ramblings

nfnsquared

First I've heard of that recommendation...and no, I didn't. No issues at 142K...

nfnsquared

For an extra $100, it's no brainer IMO (tensioner + pulley). My tensioner was fine, but others have found them leaking at the 105K service...

nokiaboy808

Haha yeah i barely come onto on here anymore unless im looking for parts or advice on something. I went along and got all the gaskets and seals replaced also. I got a good deal on the labor since i had my most of my own parts. Lets just say if i never know a couple of people that work at acura, it would have been a lot more lol

Majofo

Definitely need a good hook-up, especially for safety inspection and recon Good to hear everything is done.

nfnsquared

Well, coming up on 3 years since I did my TB change and all of a sudden I get PS moan. Hmmm, I'm wondering if the O-ring went bad. I pop the engine cover and the PS reservoir and whole area around it are covered in PS fluid. WTF?

Upon closer inspection, I discover that the reservoir is no longer in it's holding bracket. I put in back in and check all the hoses and connections. Everything seems solid. Only after a power wash of the area do I discover the issue: There is a gash in the side of the reservoir where it apparently rubbed against the serpentine belt when the reservoir came loose from it's bracket. It had worn through the plastic just enough to leave a pinhole for the fluid to leak out of.

Lesson learned: be sure you firmly seat the reservoir back in it's bracket when you're done with the TB change. It might be a good idea to periodically pull the engine cover to check. I don't think I've had that cover off more than 5 times in 3 years...

Majofo

ouch..