A-116: DIY - Transmission Cooler for 5AT with Magnefine Filter. Lots of pics
12-04-2009, 05:38 AM
#1
A-116: DIY - Transmission Cooler for 5AT with Magnefine Filter. Lots of pics
I have an 04 TL. I used a B&M transmission cooler #70264. Found here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70264/
1)Remove the front bumper. Video found here https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/diy-video-updated-removing-front-bumper-3g-garage-e-080-a-628363/
2)I found it was much easier to position the cooler if you remove the bumper support. There are 6 bolts (3 each side. 2 top, 1 bottom). I decided to leave the bumper support off permanently. Saves some weight and my intercooler is going to need to breath.
3)Mount the cooler. This particular kit from B&M comes with mounting supplies. Position the cooler on the driver side at least 1/8 inch in front of the a/c condenser. This kit comes with adhesive foam pads that attach to the rear of the cooler and will give you enough clearance.
4)I used zip-ties on one side and attached the cooler to the a/c condenser.
5)On the other side of the cooler, I used the plastic rod that comes with the kit. Push the rod through the a/c condenser and the radiator.
6)Attach the clip to the plastic rod on the back side of the radiator and cut off the excess. You don't have to cut the plastic rod flush to the clip but try to get as close as possible. A long pair of scissors works perfectly. Spin the fan with your hand to make sure it clears.
7)Wiggle the cooler around a little to make sure there is no play.
8)Remove the front sway bar. 6 bolts (It's much easier to work on the transmission hoses if the sway bar is out of the way) Remove the 2 clips for the electrical harnesses and the 2 smaller bolts.
9)Find this hose. Its a little over 7 inches and is located on the back side of the transmission near the ATF fill bolt. This hose connects the two banjo fittings for the transmission fluid.
The hose you want is #6. The banjo fittings are #'s 12 and 13. The STOCK filter is #7
The dotted line is the location of the hose
10)Remove the 7 inch stock hose. Have some paper towels ready because once you take the hose off the banjo fitting that attaches to the stock filter, its going to leak a little. I'd say a 1/2 once at most. The hose has 2 very strong clamps on each side. I could not get these clamps off because the head on my pliers was not big enough to grab both sides of the clamp. I had to use a dremel to cut off the clamp. Either way, you need to remove both clamps. Install the new 3/8 inch transmission hose (I used Goodyear transmission hose) on each banjo fitting. You'll need about 9-10 feet. Use a worm-gear clamp on each hose and install it over the banjo fitting. Tighten the clamp so it wont spin around the hose. Then give it one more full turn. Make it snug but don't over-tighten. You don't want to crush the banjo
11)I chose to run the hose under the fuse box and intake and along the frame rail.
12)If you plan on installing a Magnefine in-line filter, then follow these steps. If not, then skip to step 16. The Magnefine filter is directional so you'll need to determine the flow of the transmission fluid. I put both hoses into different jugs and started the car. I let it run for about 3 seconds. A LOT of fluid came out in that short period of time.
**IF YOU INSTALL THE COOLER AND FILTER AT THE SAME TIME, THEN THE FILTER NEEDS TO RECEIVE THE HOT FLUID BEFORE IT REACHES THE TRANSMISSION COOLER**
- The reason for this is so the new cooler doesn't get contaminated/clogged with debris
**IF YOU INSTALL THE FILTER AT A LATER DATE, IT DOESN'T MATTER IF YOU PUT IT ON THE SUPPLY OR RETURN SIDE**
-This is what magnefine says, not me
JUST REMEMBER TO FOLLOW THE ARROW ON THE FILTER FOR THE DIRECTION OF FLOW
13)Don't worry, I'll just tell you which hose/banjo fitting to use. This is the banjo fitting that the fluid comes from. (This banjo attaches directly to the stock filter)
This is a picture of the hose attached to the banjo fitting above that you connect to the Magnefine filter.
14)Notice the arrow on the Magnefine filter indicating which way the fluid needs to flow. If the filter is installed in the wrong direction then it will get clogged.
15)Cut the hose and install your filter. Tighten your clamps snug but not too tight.
View from the top. I have my battery relocated to the trunk so I can leave my filter in this location. If you have your battery in its original location then you'll have to either route your hoses under the battery tray or along side the frame of the car. Try to keep the filter in an easily accessible location so you can change it in the future without hassle.
16)Run your hoses how you like. You want to avoid heavy bends in the hoses. I have one hose running under the headlight and the other one is between the frame and the radiator.
17)Cut the hoses to the proper length and attach them to the cooler. I put the hose with the Magnefine filter onto the top hose barb on the cooler. Once again, tighten the clamps snug but don't over tighten.
view from the side
Your almost done
Now, start the car and let it run for 20 seconds then turn it off. You want the pump to send the fluid into the cooler and fill the lines.
Check the dipstick after 90 seconds and see how much fluid you need to add. This particular kit that I bought needed about 1 more quart of fluid to bring the line between the dots on the dipstick.
*If you decided to check which hose the fluid comes from for the Magnefine filter, then your going to need to add a little more fluid then you would normally need (depending on how much you pumped out into a jug)
Remove the ATF filler bolt with a 17mm socket and add some fluid. You don't want to add too much fluid so I would recommend adding a 1/2 quart at a time. Replace the filler bolt and start the car for another 30 seconds then turn it off. Keep doing this until the fluid is between the two dots on the dipstick.
During the whole time your adding fluid and checking the level, CHECK ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS FOR LEAKS.
Once you have enough fluid in there, go for a short drive and check your connections again. If everything looks good then your done!!!
The cooler gets very hot so its doing its job. After a 20 mile drive I put my hand on both hoses and you can definitely tell a difference in temperature.
Just to make sure it was working, I used an infrared heat sensor on the outside of both hoses. The supply hose was between 112-114 degrees. The return hose was between 104-108 degrees. I waited too long after my drive to check the temperature so while idling for 3 minutes, the hot fluid wasn't getting cooled and it started to heat up the return hose. Ill check the temperature again immediately after a few wot runs and I bet it will be lower.
1)Remove the front bumper. Video found here https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/diy-video-updated-removing-front-bumper-3g-garage-e-080-a-628363/
2)I found it was much easier to position the cooler if you remove the bumper support. There are 6 bolts (3 each side. 2 top, 1 bottom). I decided to leave the bumper support off permanently. Saves some weight and my intercooler is going to need to breath.
3)Mount the cooler. This particular kit from B&M comes with mounting supplies. Position the cooler on the driver side at least 1/8 inch in front of the a/c condenser. This kit comes with adhesive foam pads that attach to the rear of the cooler and will give you enough clearance.
4)I used zip-ties on one side and attached the cooler to the a/c condenser.
5)On the other side of the cooler, I used the plastic rod that comes with the kit. Push the rod through the a/c condenser and the radiator.
6)Attach the clip to the plastic rod on the back side of the radiator and cut off the excess. You don't have to cut the plastic rod flush to the clip but try to get as close as possible. A long pair of scissors works perfectly. Spin the fan with your hand to make sure it clears.
7)Wiggle the cooler around a little to make sure there is no play.
8)Remove the front sway bar. 6 bolts (It's much easier to work on the transmission hoses if the sway bar is out of the way) Remove the 2 clips for the electrical harnesses and the 2 smaller bolts.
9)Find this hose. Its a little over 7 inches and is located on the back side of the transmission near the ATF fill bolt. This hose connects the two banjo fittings for the transmission fluid.
The hose you want is #6. The banjo fittings are #'s 12 and 13. The STOCK filter is #7
The dotted line is the location of the hose
10)Remove the 7 inch stock hose. Have some paper towels ready because once you take the hose off the banjo fitting that attaches to the stock filter, its going to leak a little. I'd say a 1/2 once at most. The hose has 2 very strong clamps on each side. I could not get these clamps off because the head on my pliers was not big enough to grab both sides of the clamp. I had to use a dremel to cut off the clamp. Either way, you need to remove both clamps. Install the new 3/8 inch transmission hose (I used Goodyear transmission hose) on each banjo fitting. You'll need about 9-10 feet. Use a worm-gear clamp on each hose and install it over the banjo fitting. Tighten the clamp so it wont spin around the hose. Then give it one more full turn. Make it snug but don't over-tighten. You don't want to crush the banjo
11)I chose to run the hose under the fuse box and intake and along the frame rail.
12)If you plan on installing a Magnefine in-line filter, then follow these steps. If not, then skip to step 16. The Magnefine filter is directional so you'll need to determine the flow of the transmission fluid. I put both hoses into different jugs and started the car. I let it run for about 3 seconds. A LOT of fluid came out in that short period of time.
**IF YOU INSTALL THE COOLER AND FILTER AT THE SAME TIME, THEN THE FILTER NEEDS TO RECEIVE THE HOT FLUID BEFORE IT REACHES THE TRANSMISSION COOLER**
- The reason for this is so the new cooler doesn't get contaminated/clogged with debris
**IF YOU INSTALL THE FILTER AT A LATER DATE, IT DOESN'T MATTER IF YOU PUT IT ON THE SUPPLY OR RETURN SIDE**
-This is what magnefine says, not me
JUST REMEMBER TO FOLLOW THE ARROW ON THE FILTER FOR THE DIRECTION OF FLOW
13)Don't worry, I'll just tell you which hose/banjo fitting to use. This is the banjo fitting that the fluid comes from. (This banjo attaches directly to the stock filter)
This is a picture of the hose attached to the banjo fitting above that you connect to the Magnefine filter.
14)Notice the arrow on the Magnefine filter indicating which way the fluid needs to flow. If the filter is installed in the wrong direction then it will get clogged.
15)Cut the hose and install your filter. Tighten your clamps snug but not too tight.
View from the top. I have my battery relocated to the trunk so I can leave my filter in this location. If you have your battery in its original location then you'll have to either route your hoses under the battery tray or along side the frame of the car. Try to keep the filter in an easily accessible location so you can change it in the future without hassle.
16)Run your hoses how you like. You want to avoid heavy bends in the hoses. I have one hose running under the headlight and the other one is between the frame and the radiator.
17)Cut the hoses to the proper length and attach them to the cooler. I put the hose with the Magnefine filter onto the top hose barb on the cooler. Once again, tighten the clamps snug but don't over tighten.
view from the side
Your almost done
Now, start the car and let it run for 20 seconds then turn it off. You want the pump to send the fluid into the cooler and fill the lines.
Check the dipstick after 90 seconds and see how much fluid you need to add. This particular kit that I bought needed about 1 more quart of fluid to bring the line between the dots on the dipstick.
*If you decided to check which hose the fluid comes from for the Magnefine filter, then your going to need to add a little more fluid then you would normally need (depending on how much you pumped out into a jug)
Remove the ATF filler bolt with a 17mm socket and add some fluid. You don't want to add too much fluid so I would recommend adding a 1/2 quart at a time. Replace the filler bolt and start the car for another 30 seconds then turn it off. Keep doing this until the fluid is between the two dots on the dipstick.
During the whole time your adding fluid and checking the level, CHECK ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS FOR LEAKS.
Once you have enough fluid in there, go for a short drive and check your connections again. If everything looks good then your done!!!
The cooler gets very hot so its doing its job. After a 20 mile drive I put my hand on both hoses and you can definitely tell a difference in temperature.
Just to make sure it was working, I used an infrared heat sensor on the outside of both hoses. The supply hose was between 112-114 degrees. The return hose was between 104-108 degrees. I waited too long after my drive to check the temperature so while idling for 3 minutes, the hot fluid wasn't getting cooled and it started to heat up the return hose. Ill check the temperature again immediately after a few wot runs and I bet it will be lower.
Last edited by libert69; 12-04-2009 at 05:43 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by libert69:
Delaokidz6 (10-03-2021),
장ì¸ì² (07-07-2016)
12-04-2009, 08:03 AM
#3
So how exactly does this help the trans? From my understanding a trans should run at a certain temp for best performance. If your trans is overheating wouldn't it indicate another problem? I've noticed my AT seems to shift some what hard at times. I have taken it to the dealer twice and they said it was fine. I am wondering if a cooler would help.
Last edited by BigJack75; 12-04-2009 at 08:05 AM.
12-04-2009, 10:03 AM
#4
Awesome writeup! I'm thinking about adding the cooler to my car, but at the same time I remember IHC saying it's not the best idea to do if you live in a really cold environment.....well I live in the artic tundra here in MN where it get pretty ridiculously cold. Anybody know what running too cold on the tranny would do? (That question is probably aimed more at IHC since he seems to know a lot about our trannys).
12-04-2009, 01:52 PM
#5
So how exactly does this help the trans? From my understanding a trans should run at a certain temp for best performance. If your trans is overheating wouldn't it indicate another problem? I've noticed my AT seems to shift some what hard at times. I have taken it to the dealer twice and they said it was fine. I am wondering if a cooler would help.
if your car shifts hard sometimes, try a 3x3 transmission flush and change the 3rd and 4th gear sensors. there are DIY threads on both of these topics.
Awesome writeup! I'm thinking about adding the cooler to my car, but at the same time I remember IHC saying it's not the best idea to do if you live in a really cold environment.....well I live in the artic tundra here in MN where it get pretty ridiculously cold. Anybody know what running too cold on the tranny would do? (That question is probably aimed more at IHC since he seems to know a lot about our trannys).
12-04-2009, 03:15 PM
#6
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Awesome writeup! I'm thinking about adding the cooler to my car, but at the same time I remember IHC saying it's not the best idea to do if you live in a really cold environment.....well I live in the artic tundra here in MN where it get pretty ridiculously cold. Anybody know what running too cold on the tranny would do? (That question is probably aimed more at IHC since he seems to know a lot about our trannys).
Trending Topics
12-06-2009, 02:48 AM
#8
on my way home from work which is 37 miles, i checked the temp of the hoses again. it was 35 degrees out at the time. this time i had the heat sensor in my car. for the last 2-3 miles i was downshifting and going wot the whole time until i stopped. i stopped the car, popped the hood and checked real quick. the supply hose was 116-120 degrees and the return hose was 82-86 and quickly rising.
12-07-2009, 10:58 PM
#10
1st Gear
Join Date: Dec 2009
Age: 72
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Magnefine Install
Hi Libert69,
I must say i am very impressed with the effort that you went to detailing the installation of the Magnefine into your Accura.
We are the guys that make the Magnefine in conjunction with our American partners. Here is a link to our Boss Products USA team and some of our great products the market.
www.bossproductsusa.com
You have made a good decision to install a Magnefine. You are up there with the best transmission guys in the USA,the top transmission engineers at Ford and Chrysler who spent years and years and hundreds of thousands of dollars testing an proving the effectiveness of Magnefine in countless field tests and in the Ford labs.
Their conclusion....wow this little sucker really works. They did tests to show that repeat transmission failures dropped to zero once the Magnefine was installed.....but enough of the sales talk. Just a few things in you post that may clear up some questions.
As you have shown it is relatively easy to install the Magnefine especially if there is a section of rubber hose which there is on many transmissions these days.
The Magnefine is DIRECTIONAL
Yes you are right there is a correct way to install the Magnefine with the fluid going in the direction of the arrow.
But if you install it the wrong way around then it will still work. The guys at Ford wanted to test this so they made us all go to Las Vegas[ tough life eh!] and install Magnefine filters into a fleet of taxi’s and install them THE WRONG WAY ROUND to see what would happen. Well none of the taxi transmissions failed because of the way the Magnefine is designed. The fluid runs into the paper element inside Magnefine and then out over the magnet...this dual cleaning removes the damaging metal and once you start removing the metal less contaminants are created...yeah, the oil actually gets cleaner as you drive.
The Magnefine is designed to hold a lot of crap...so much that as the Ford guys said the transmission would die before this filter got filled, even installed the wrong way.
But I’m with you, install it in the correct direction of flow that way all the tranny fluid has to pass over the powerful magnet before it then passes thru the pleated paper element.
Which line to install it in, and WHY ?
Yes there is a good reason. We recommend that you install the Magnefine into the return line after the cooler on the way back to the transmission. The reason for this is that the Magnefine will collect any crap that is held in the cooler and dislodged...this is especially important in older transmissions or after transmission repairs...nothing is worse than a brand new tranny being stuffed by crap that came out of the cooler with new tranny fluid.
If the vehicle is new, the guys at Ford said we should put the Magnefine in the trans out line. i.e. the line from the trans to the cooler this way any contamination that is generated by the tranny is caught before it goes to the cooler and could get caught in the cooler.
Easy to change. You have noted that once installed it is easy to change and this you should do every year or so...don’t fret though the Magnefine has a safety bypass so it can never reduce flow when installed in the correct direction.
How much fluid?
You will lose a little fluid when you are installing the Magnefine and it only requires and additional ½ cup of fluid or so to fill its internal volume. Its cleaning power makes up for any small amount of extra fluid, you require.
You may have also seen in the literature that Magnefine are often installed into the Power Steering returns line, that run back to the reservoir. This is the low pressure line. As there is no filtration in power steering and metal is the killer for the system , installing Magnefine is simple and easy into a rubber line.
Also, just in case you have any concerns with pressure in relation to your transmission. Most transmissions run at anywhere from 50-150 psi . The Magnefine is tested to 300psi and 1 in every 1000 we test to destruction just to ensure they exceed any pressure spikes in a transmission system.
Any further questions drop me a line.
I must say i am very impressed with the effort that you went to detailing the installation of the Magnefine into your Accura.
We are the guys that make the Magnefine in conjunction with our American partners. Here is a link to our Boss Products USA team and some of our great products the market.
www.bossproductsusa.com
You have made a good decision to install a Magnefine. You are up there with the best transmission guys in the USA,the top transmission engineers at Ford and Chrysler who spent years and years and hundreds of thousands of dollars testing an proving the effectiveness of Magnefine in countless field tests and in the Ford labs.
Their conclusion....wow this little sucker really works. They did tests to show that repeat transmission failures dropped to zero once the Magnefine was installed.....but enough of the sales talk. Just a few things in you post that may clear up some questions.
As you have shown it is relatively easy to install the Magnefine especially if there is a section of rubber hose which there is on many transmissions these days.
The Magnefine is DIRECTIONAL
Yes you are right there is a correct way to install the Magnefine with the fluid going in the direction of the arrow.
But if you install it the wrong way around then it will still work. The guys at Ford wanted to test this so they made us all go to Las Vegas[ tough life eh!] and install Magnefine filters into a fleet of taxi’s and install them THE WRONG WAY ROUND to see what would happen. Well none of the taxi transmissions failed because of the way the Magnefine is designed. The fluid runs into the paper element inside Magnefine and then out over the magnet...this dual cleaning removes the damaging metal and once you start removing the metal less contaminants are created...yeah, the oil actually gets cleaner as you drive.
The Magnefine is designed to hold a lot of crap...so much that as the Ford guys said the transmission would die before this filter got filled, even installed the wrong way.
But I’m with you, install it in the correct direction of flow that way all the tranny fluid has to pass over the powerful magnet before it then passes thru the pleated paper element.
Which line to install it in, and WHY ?
Yes there is a good reason. We recommend that you install the Magnefine into the return line after the cooler on the way back to the transmission. The reason for this is that the Magnefine will collect any crap that is held in the cooler and dislodged...this is especially important in older transmissions or after transmission repairs...nothing is worse than a brand new tranny being stuffed by crap that came out of the cooler with new tranny fluid.
If the vehicle is new, the guys at Ford said we should put the Magnefine in the trans out line. i.e. the line from the trans to the cooler this way any contamination that is generated by the tranny is caught before it goes to the cooler and could get caught in the cooler.
Easy to change. You have noted that once installed it is easy to change and this you should do every year or so...don’t fret though the Magnefine has a safety bypass so it can never reduce flow when installed in the correct direction.
How much fluid?
You will lose a little fluid when you are installing the Magnefine and it only requires and additional ½ cup of fluid or so to fill its internal volume. Its cleaning power makes up for any small amount of extra fluid, you require.
You may have also seen in the literature that Magnefine are often installed into the Power Steering returns line, that run back to the reservoir. This is the low pressure line. As there is no filtration in power steering and metal is the killer for the system , installing Magnefine is simple and easy into a rubber line.
Also, just in case you have any concerns with pressure in relation to your transmission. Most transmissions run at anywhere from 50-150 psi . The Magnefine is tested to 300psi and 1 in every 1000 we test to destruction just to ensure they exceed any pressure spikes in a transmission system.
Any further questions drop me a line.
12-08-2009, 04:26 AM
#11
Hi Libert69,
I must say i am very impressed with the effort that you went to detailing the installation of the Magnefine into your Accura.
We are the guys that make the Magnefine in conjunction with our American partners. Here is a link to our Boss Products USA team and some of our great products the market.
www.bossproductsusa.com
You have made a good decision to install a Magnefine. You are up there with the best transmission guys in the USA,the top transmission engineers at Ford and Chrysler who spent years and years and hundreds of thousands of dollars testing an proving the effectiveness of Magnefine in countless field tests and in the Ford labs.
Their conclusion....wow this little sucker really works. They did tests to show that repeat transmission failures dropped to zero once the Magnefine was installed.....but enough of the sales talk. Just a few things in you post that may clear up some questions.
As you have shown it is relatively easy to install the Magnefine especially if there is a section of rubber hose which there is on many transmissions these days.
The Magnefine is DIRECTIONAL
Yes you are right there is a correct way to install the Magnefine with the fluid going in the direction of the arrow.
But if you install it the wrong way around then it will still work. The guys at Ford wanted to test this so they made us all go to Las Vegas[ tough life eh!] and install Magnefine filters into a fleet of taxi’s and install them THE WRONG WAY ROUND to see what would happen. Well none of the taxi transmissions failed because of the way the Magnefine is designed. The fluid runs into the paper element inside Magnefine and then out over the magnet...this dual cleaning removes the damaging metal and once you start removing the metal less contaminants are created...yeah, the oil actually gets cleaner as you drive.
The Magnefine is designed to hold a lot of crap...so much that as the Ford guys said the transmission would die before this filter got filled, even installed the wrong way.
But I’m with you, install it in the correct direction of flow that way all the tranny fluid has to pass over the powerful magnet before it then passes thru the pleated paper element.
Which line to install it in, and WHY ?
Yes there is a good reason. We recommend that you install the Magnefine into the return line after the cooler on the way back to the transmission. The reason for this is that the Magnefine will collect any crap that is held in the cooler and dislodged...this is especially important in older transmissions or after transmission repairs...nothing is worse than a brand new tranny being stuffed by crap that came out of the cooler with new tranny fluid.
If the vehicle is new, the guys at Ford said we should put the Magnefine in the trans out line. i.e. the line from the trans to the cooler this way any contamination that is generated by the tranny is caught before it goes to the cooler and could get caught in the cooler.
Easy to change. You have noted that once installed it is easy to change and this you should do every year or so...don’t fret though the Magnefine has a safety bypass so it can never reduce flow when installed in the correct direction.
How much fluid?
You will lose a little fluid when you are installing the Magnefine and it only requires and additional ½ cup of fluid or so to fill its internal volume. Its cleaning power makes up for any small amount of extra fluid, you require.
You may have also seen in the literature that Magnefine are often installed into the Power Steering returns line, that run back to the reservoir. This is the low pressure line. As there is no filtration in power steering and metal is the killer for the system , installing Magnefine is simple and easy into a rubber line.
Also, just in case you have any concerns with pressure in relation to your transmission. Most transmissions run at anywhere from 50-150 psi . The Magnefine is tested to 300psi and 1 in every 1000 we test to destruction just to ensure they exceed any pressure spikes in a transmission system.
Any further questions drop me a line.
I must say i am very impressed with the effort that you went to detailing the installation of the Magnefine into your Accura.
We are the guys that make the Magnefine in conjunction with our American partners. Here is a link to our Boss Products USA team and some of our great products the market.
www.bossproductsusa.com
You have made a good decision to install a Magnefine. You are up there with the best transmission guys in the USA,the top transmission engineers at Ford and Chrysler who spent years and years and hundreds of thousands of dollars testing an proving the effectiveness of Magnefine in countless field tests and in the Ford labs.
Their conclusion....wow this little sucker really works. They did tests to show that repeat transmission failures dropped to zero once the Magnefine was installed.....but enough of the sales talk. Just a few things in you post that may clear up some questions.
As you have shown it is relatively easy to install the Magnefine especially if there is a section of rubber hose which there is on many transmissions these days.
The Magnefine is DIRECTIONAL
Yes you are right there is a correct way to install the Magnefine with the fluid going in the direction of the arrow.
But if you install it the wrong way around then it will still work. The guys at Ford wanted to test this so they made us all go to Las Vegas[ tough life eh!] and install Magnefine filters into a fleet of taxi’s and install them THE WRONG WAY ROUND to see what would happen. Well none of the taxi transmissions failed because of the way the Magnefine is designed. The fluid runs into the paper element inside Magnefine and then out over the magnet...this dual cleaning removes the damaging metal and once you start removing the metal less contaminants are created...yeah, the oil actually gets cleaner as you drive.
The Magnefine is designed to hold a lot of crap...so much that as the Ford guys said the transmission would die before this filter got filled, even installed the wrong way.
But I’m with you, install it in the correct direction of flow that way all the tranny fluid has to pass over the powerful magnet before it then passes thru the pleated paper element.
Which line to install it in, and WHY ?
Yes there is a good reason. We recommend that you install the Magnefine into the return line after the cooler on the way back to the transmission. The reason for this is that the Magnefine will collect any crap that is held in the cooler and dislodged...this is especially important in older transmissions or after transmission repairs...nothing is worse than a brand new tranny being stuffed by crap that came out of the cooler with new tranny fluid.
If the vehicle is new, the guys at Ford said we should put the Magnefine in the trans out line. i.e. the line from the trans to the cooler this way any contamination that is generated by the tranny is caught before it goes to the cooler and could get caught in the cooler.
Easy to change. You have noted that once installed it is easy to change and this you should do every year or so...don’t fret though the Magnefine has a safety bypass so it can never reduce flow when installed in the correct direction.
How much fluid?
You will lose a little fluid when you are installing the Magnefine and it only requires and additional ½ cup of fluid or so to fill its internal volume. Its cleaning power makes up for any small amount of extra fluid, you require.
You may have also seen in the literature that Magnefine are often installed into the Power Steering returns line, that run back to the reservoir. This is the low pressure line. As there is no filtration in power steering and metal is the killer for the system , installing Magnefine is simple and easy into a rubber line.
Also, just in case you have any concerns with pressure in relation to your transmission. Most transmissions run at anywhere from 50-150 psi . The Magnefine is tested to 300psi and 1 in every 1000 we test to destruction just to ensure they exceed any pressure spikes in a transmission system.
Any further questions drop me a line.
"On new vehicles (less than 5,000 miles), it is recommended that the filter be installed on the cooler supply side to protect the cooler from contamination. On in-service vehicles (more than 5,000 miles), the filter should be installed in the return line from the cooler to the transmission. On any vehicle that has experienced any transmission difficulty, the filter should be placed on the return side."
After reading that, I figured it made sense to install the filter on the supply line to the new cooler so if there was any particles or debris flowing through the lines then it wouldn't clog the cooler.
03-14-2010, 05:44 PM
#12
libert69
Thanks for this comprehensive and detailed documentation. On your photos it looks as though the 3/8 hose is a good fit on the banjo fittings. Was it? I'm also wondering about the routing of the hose connected to the banjo fitting (#12). It starts out towards the right side of the car...is that the same hose looping back on the far right of your photo for step 10)? Did you happen to take a photo of the loop?
Thanks
Thanks for this comprehensive and detailed documentation. On your photos it looks as though the 3/8 hose is a good fit on the banjo fittings. Was it? I'm also wondering about the routing of the hose connected to the banjo fitting (#12). It starts out towards the right side of the car...is that the same hose looping back on the far right of your photo for step 10)? Did you happen to take a photo of the loop?
Thanks
03-14-2010, 06:59 PM
#13
Team Owner
libert69
Thanks for this comprehensive and detailed documentation. On your photos it looks as though the 3/8 hose is a good fit on the banjo fittings. Was it? I'm also wondering about the routing of the hose connected to the banjo fitting (#12). It starts out towards the right side of the car...is that the same hose looping back on the far right of your photo for step 10)? Did you happen to take a photo of the loop?
Thanks
Thanks for this comprehensive and detailed documentation. On your photos it looks as though the 3/8 hose is a good fit on the banjo fittings. Was it? I'm also wondering about the routing of the hose connected to the banjo fitting (#12). It starts out towards the right side of the car...is that the same hose looping back on the far right of your photo for step 10)? Did you happen to take a photo of the loop?
Thanks
The 3/8 hose is definitely what you want. The common 9mm hose is smaller and with a run this long, any little bit helps. I would have no problem with 1/2 hose if the barbs were larger.
On a side note, in my original post on this I said to use "fuel injection" hose as the minimum requirement and I think I said I was going to go back and do the whole thing in stainless tubing. However, mine has been good so far for the past 2.5 years. I check the hoses everytime the hood is up.
03-14-2010, 07:24 PM
#14
Team Owner
I had this thread mixed up with one I had read already. I didn't read the first post when I replied before.
To answer a couple questions...]
Cooler fluid will extend the life of the trans in a few ways....
-As the fluid gets hotter it's friction coefficient goes down so shifts become slower and more sloppy, resulting in a little more slip.
-Crappy fluid like factory Z1 will oxidize much quicker when temps get too high. You should be able to extend drain intervals a little with the cooler but the Magnefine plays a large role in this as well.
-There are tons of rubber seals inside of a trans, some hold a lot of pressure and the pressure directly controls the shift firmness and holding power of the clutches. Lower temps will increase the life of the internal rubber seals.
You really can't mechanically run a trans too cold but you can run it too cold to where the computer won't allow certain functions like torque convertor clutch lockup (TCC). As long as it's running at least 150 degrees you *should* be ok.
Between the factory heater/cooler that tries to make the trans fluid the same as the 195 degree engine temp and the torque convertor there's little chance of it running too cold except for long freeway drives and if it does get too cold the computer will unlock the convertor to generate some heat. The B&M coolers have a large primary passage that will open up as the temp drops below 160 degress bypassing most of the cooler so again it's very hard to run it too cold.
I recommend a synthetic fluid always because it will take the extreme heat better and it's thinner when cold. There's less of a variance between hot and cold viscosity over the factory fluid. Lets not forget that this fluid can see temps as high or higher than 300F in the clutch packs during a shift.
Synthetic is just as important with a cooler because you're going to spend a longer time at cooler temps, the warmup process is going to take a little longer. So with the good syn, you spend more time near your normal operating viscosity.
There is some talk that synthetics will transfer heat better than dino. I don't know what to say about that other than I have not seen a difference in my GN that I log every bit of data on. I have two very large coolers on it and when I'm on the line if the other guy takes too long to stage and I'm sitting there at full throttle against the brake, I still have to watch the temps to avoid overheating. If there is a difference it wasn't enough to measure.
Magnefine is a great filter for it's convienence level. There are better filters out there but they typically cost $100+ and they're the regular spin on filters like the oil filter. The Magnefine filters with the paper element and magnet are more than sufficient for our needs..
To those running one, if you take the label off and hammer a screwdriver gently into the seam and crack it, you can unscrew the filter to see what it caught. It would leak if you tried to return it to service but it's neat to see what's inside.
To answer a couple questions...]
Cooler fluid will extend the life of the trans in a few ways....
-As the fluid gets hotter it's friction coefficient goes down so shifts become slower and more sloppy, resulting in a little more slip.
-Crappy fluid like factory Z1 will oxidize much quicker when temps get too high. You should be able to extend drain intervals a little with the cooler but the Magnefine plays a large role in this as well.
-There are tons of rubber seals inside of a trans, some hold a lot of pressure and the pressure directly controls the shift firmness and holding power of the clutches. Lower temps will increase the life of the internal rubber seals.
You really can't mechanically run a trans too cold but you can run it too cold to where the computer won't allow certain functions like torque convertor clutch lockup (TCC). As long as it's running at least 150 degrees you *should* be ok.
Between the factory heater/cooler that tries to make the trans fluid the same as the 195 degree engine temp and the torque convertor there's little chance of it running too cold except for long freeway drives and if it does get too cold the computer will unlock the convertor to generate some heat. The B&M coolers have a large primary passage that will open up as the temp drops below 160 degress bypassing most of the cooler so again it's very hard to run it too cold.
I recommend a synthetic fluid always because it will take the extreme heat better and it's thinner when cold. There's less of a variance between hot and cold viscosity over the factory fluid. Lets not forget that this fluid can see temps as high or higher than 300F in the clutch packs during a shift.
Synthetic is just as important with a cooler because you're going to spend a longer time at cooler temps, the warmup process is going to take a little longer. So with the good syn, you spend more time near your normal operating viscosity.
There is some talk that synthetics will transfer heat better than dino. I don't know what to say about that other than I have not seen a difference in my GN that I log every bit of data on. I have two very large coolers on it and when I'm on the line if the other guy takes too long to stage and I'm sitting there at full throttle against the brake, I still have to watch the temps to avoid overheating. If there is a difference it wasn't enough to measure.
Magnefine is a great filter for it's convienence level. There are better filters out there but they typically cost $100+ and they're the regular spin on filters like the oil filter. The Magnefine filters with the paper element and magnet are more than sufficient for our needs..
To those running one, if you take the label off and hammer a screwdriver gently into the seam and crack it, you can unscrew the filter to see what it caught. It would leak if you tried to return it to service but it's neat to see what's inside.
The following users liked this post:
petroboy37ent (02-02-2022)
03-15-2010, 04:39 AM
#15
libert69
Thanks for this comprehensive and detailed documentation. On your photos it looks as though the 3/8 hose is a good fit on the banjo fittings. Was it? I'm also wondering about the routing of the hose connected to the banjo fitting (#12). It starts out towards the right side of the car...is that the same hose looping back on the far right of your photo for step 10)? Did you happen to take a photo of the loop?
Thanks
Thanks for this comprehensive and detailed documentation. On your photos it looks as though the 3/8 hose is a good fit on the banjo fittings. Was it? I'm also wondering about the routing of the hose connected to the banjo fitting (#12). It starts out towards the right side of the car...is that the same hose looping back on the far right of your photo for step 10)? Did you happen to take a photo of the loop?
Thanks
One could run the hose from the #12 banjo around the back of the engine, towards the passenger side of the car, around the passenger side of the radiator and to the cooler that way. I found it to be unnecessary. For one, you'll need about 3 more feet of hose. Second, your going to be running very close to the drive belt and all those pulleys. You really dont want a transmission hose coming near anything thats moving.
07-03-2010, 08:25 PM
#18
couldn't you just take both lines off the cooler and splice them back together if cold weather climates in winter time was a concern?? Basically bypass the cooler in the winter time then when spring hits reconnect the lines to the cooler.
BTW to the OP great write up and detailed pics. I just might look into doing this myself since I do drive a lil hard at times.
BTW to the OP great write up and detailed pics. I just might look into doing this myself since I do drive a lil hard at times.
07-03-2010, 08:34 PM
#19
Team Owner
couldn't you just take both lines off the cooler and splice them back together if cold weather climates in winter time was a concern?? Basically bypass the cooler in the winter time then when spring hits reconnect the lines to the cooler.
BTW to the OP great write up and detailed pics. I just might look into doing this myself since I do drive a lil hard at times.
BTW to the OP great write up and detailed pics. I just might look into doing this myself since I do drive a lil hard at times.
Between the torque convertor and the factory heat exchanger circulating 190 degree water the only way you could run into this problem is in an extremely cold climate going down the freeway with the torque convertor locked.
09-12-2010, 09:25 PM
#20
I have had a Magnefine filter and Transmission cooler for some time now on an Accord.This installation is much easier if you purchase the metal pipe/Banjo fitting that is on the rear of the transmission (Return line). Take off the long metal Banjo/fluid outlet pipe from the end of the filter housing and fit the new short pipe facing forward. Now there is no need to make a big loop to get the outlet pipe facing towards the front, just a neater installation.
I would be hesitant in leaving the original filter in place (I removed mine) if using a Magnefine.
While a good high flow transmission cooler is not a problem, two relatively small filters in series may be. Until someone actually measures the pressure drop in the line I would err on the side of caution, an “I think it would be ok” response is not a measurement. This cooler circuit is not a full flow or high pressure circuit. Its pressure comes from the torque convertor.
On the Magnefine filter, to state more clearly something mentioned in an earlier post. Although the filter will flow in either direction “when new”, it will not flow in either direction when clogged and it will clog easier if connected back to front.
I would be hesitant in leaving the original filter in place (I removed mine) if using a Magnefine.
While a good high flow transmission cooler is not a problem, two relatively small filters in series may be. Until someone actually measures the pressure drop in the line I would err on the side of caution, an “I think it would be ok” response is not a measurement. This cooler circuit is not a full flow or high pressure circuit. Its pressure comes from the torque convertor.
On the Magnefine filter, to state more clearly something mentioned in an earlier post. Although the filter will flow in either direction “when new”, it will not flow in either direction when clogged and it will clog easier if connected back to front.
09-24-2010, 06:12 PM
#21
n00b
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Avondale, AZ
Age: 50
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I installed a B&M cooler and Magnefine on my old Mazda6s. They were notorious for overheating trannys and subsequent tranny issues. Using a laser thermometer, the cooler considerably lowered the return line temp. I live in northeast PA (teens and twenties are very common in the dead o' winter) and never bypassed my cooler or shrouded it in any way. I never had a problem.
Come springtime, I am going to do a 3x3, and install the cooler / filter combo on my TL. It's cheap insurance, IMO!
Come springtime, I am going to do a 3x3, and install the cooler / filter combo on my TL. It's cheap insurance, IMO!
09-24-2010, 11:29 PM
#22
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Posts: 32,488
Received 7,770 Likes
on
4,341 Posts
FWIW - The 5AT Type-S comes with an external Trans Fluid Cooler stock. Of course, if you've got a TL-S and want 2 coolers, that's up to you.
http://www.hondanews.com/channels/ac...-tl-powertrain
5-Speed Automatic Transmission
....
External transmission fluid cooler (Type-S only) ....
....
External transmission fluid cooler (Type-S only) ....
10-09-2010, 07:51 PM
#24
MagneFine filter
17 months ago I replaced the ATF with Z1 as I couldn’t afford the then $640.00 cost of Redline here in AU. I fitted a huge transmission cooler and Magnefine filter, since then the car has covered close to 10,000 miles. Some of those miles included 10 hour trips of highway and mountains driving in 115 deg temperatures (So glad I fitted such a large cooler).
Now I know 10,000 miles is not a lot but I have seen other 5AT Magnefine filters cut open at this mileage and they are not a pretty sight.
Since I recently changed the ATF to redline D4 (got some at low cost) I decided to start with a new filter and have a look at the contents of the old unit. The Magnefine “end cap” is simple to unscrew if you use the correct tool. Inside it was almost like new. There was little discoloration of the filter element; however the large magnet had a very light covering of black metallic film. Similar to the small amount you normally see on the mag drain bolt. Powered clutch material I would guess?
I feel this is the problem with Hondas idea of never replacing the OEM filter. Over the years, that black grease covers the filter media and reduces oil flow, as was the case when I removed the original Honda filter 17 month ago. Bad news I would think, especially if you happen to have an oil jet mod! The Magnefine filter prevents this happening by catching the material on its large magnetic ring before it reaches the filter media. I believe the Magnefilter would last some considerable time in a transmission that was not chewing itself up. It will be interesting to compare the drain plug and contents of the filter in another 10,000 miles after running with D4 and new Sensors.
.
Now I know 10,000 miles is not a lot but I have seen other 5AT Magnefine filters cut open at this mileage and they are not a pretty sight.
Since I recently changed the ATF to redline D4 (got some at low cost) I decided to start with a new filter and have a look at the contents of the old unit. The Magnefine “end cap” is simple to unscrew if you use the correct tool. Inside it was almost like new. There was little discoloration of the filter element; however the large magnet had a very light covering of black metallic film. Similar to the small amount you normally see on the mag drain bolt. Powered clutch material I would guess?
I feel this is the problem with Hondas idea of never replacing the OEM filter. Over the years, that black grease covers the filter media and reduces oil flow, as was the case when I removed the original Honda filter 17 month ago. Bad news I would think, especially if you happen to have an oil jet mod! The Magnefine filter prevents this happening by catching the material on its large magnetic ring before it reaches the filter media. I believe the Magnefilter would last some considerable time in a transmission that was not chewing itself up. It will be interesting to compare the drain plug and contents of the filter in another 10,000 miles after running with D4 and new Sensors.
.
11-04-2010, 08:57 AM
#25
5th Gear
Join Date: Apr 2008
Age: 54
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
11-04-2010, 09:39 AM
#26
Senior Moderator
11-04-2010, 04:30 PM
#27
Team Owner
17 months ago I replaced the ATF with Z1 as I couldn’t afford the then $640.00 cost of Redline here in AU. I fitted a huge transmission cooler and Magnefine filter, since then the car has covered close to 10,000 miles. Some of those miles included 10 hour trips of highway and mountains driving in 115 deg temperatures (So glad I fitted such a large cooler).
Now I know 10,000 miles is not a lot but I have seen other 5AT Magnefine filters cut open at this mileage and they are not a pretty sight.
Since I recently changed the ATF to redline D4 (got some at low cost) I decided to start with a new filter and have a look at the contents of the old unit. The Magnefine “end cap” is simple to unscrew if you use the correct tool. Inside it was almost like new. There was little discoloration of the filter element; however the large magnet had a very light covering of black metallic film. Similar to the small amount you normally see on the mag drain bolt. Powered clutch material I would guess?
I feel this is the problem with Hondas idea of never replacing the OEM filter. Over the years, that black grease covers the filter media and reduces oil flow, as was the case when I removed the original Honda filter 17 month ago. Bad news I would think, especially if you happen to have an oil jet mod! The Magnefine filter prevents this happening by catching the material on its large magnetic ring before it reaches the filter media. I believe the Magnefilter would last some considerable time in a transmission that was not chewing itself up. It will be interesting to compare the drain plug and contents of the filter in another 10,000 miles after running with D4 and new Sensors.
.
Now I know 10,000 miles is not a lot but I have seen other 5AT Magnefine filters cut open at this mileage and they are not a pretty sight.
Since I recently changed the ATF to redline D4 (got some at low cost) I decided to start with a new filter and have a look at the contents of the old unit. The Magnefine “end cap” is simple to unscrew if you use the correct tool. Inside it was almost like new. There was little discoloration of the filter element; however the large magnet had a very light covering of black metallic film. Similar to the small amount you normally see on the mag drain bolt. Powered clutch material I would guess?
I feel this is the problem with Hondas idea of never replacing the OEM filter. Over the years, that black grease covers the filter media and reduces oil flow, as was the case when I removed the original Honda filter 17 month ago. Bad news I would think, especially if you happen to have an oil jet mod! The Magnefine filter prevents this happening by catching the material on its large magnetic ring before it reaches the filter media. I believe the Magnefilter would last some considerable time in a transmission that was not chewing itself up. It will be interesting to compare the drain plug and contents of the filter in another 10,000 miles after running with D4 and new Sensors.
.
11-06-2010, 05:55 PM
#28
I did my 3x3 today and installed the magnefine filter. First off using 3/8" hose is a bit too tight. I think when I have to change the filter I'll use 7/16" instead. For the Type S's the line that you need to use is the bottom line from the cooler going back to the tranny. You can see the line behind the driver's side wheel, removed of course. Also you need to remove the wheel well cover too plus unclip half of the lower plastic cover and let it hang. it's gonna bit tight for the most part but take your time to do it and it'll work out. Also you can bypass the metal tubing that the rubber hose goes to around the lower rad hose then back to a rubber hose. Whatever Honda was thinking when they ran
the lines sure wasn't smart at all.
the lines sure wasn't smart at all.
11-06-2010, 07:31 PM
#29
Team Owner
I did my 3x3 today and installed the magnefine filter. First off using 3/8" hose is a bit too tight. I think when I have to change the filter I'll use 7/16" instead. For the Type S's the line that you need to use is the bottom line from the cooler going back to the tranny. You can see the line behind the driver's side wheel, removed of course. Also you need to remove the wheel well cover too plus unclip half of the lower plastic cover and let it hang. it's gonna bit tight for the most part but take your time to do it and it'll work out. Also you can bypass the metal tubing that the rubber hose goes to around the lower rad hose then back to a rubber hose. Whatever Honda was thinking when they ran
the lines sure wasn't smart at all.
the lines sure wasn't smart at all.
I haven't looked at the stock routing on the Type-S but if they used metal line, there's likely a good reason. If they could've saved the $.10 they would have.
11-07-2010, 12:02 PM
#30
I wouldn't use larger than 3/8" line. It needs to be tight without the clamp. Relying on the clamp to seal it will cause a leak since most clamps will not put perfectly even pressure all the way around.
I haven't looked at the stock routing on the Type-S but if they used metal line, there's likely a good reason. If they could've saved the $.10 they would have.
I haven't looked at the stock routing on the Type-S but if they used metal line, there's likely a good reason. If they could've saved the $.10 they would have.
05-01-2011, 02:55 PM
#31
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
I just finished this mod.
I scared the hell out of myself. When I test drove the car, it began bucking and flaring like crazy. My indicator lights were flashing, VSA and Check Engine lights came on. I pulled over and the car would not shift into Park until I turned the engine off. Complete "Oh Shit!" moment! I popped the hood and the lines were not kinked and were warm, meaning fluid was flowing. Re-started the car and got it home (still exhibiting the same symptoms). I checked this DIY again to make sure I had everything properly connected.
Then I decided to make sure I had not unplugged any connectors---I didn't remember disconnecting anything. It turns out that the plug right next to the banjo fitting had come partially undone. Its the one on the left side of this picture, just below the ATF fill bolt:
When I pushed it together, it clicked and the car ran just fine after that. I took it up to Advance Auto to get the code cleared and I am now in business!
Thank you for this DIY. Remember to check your connections!
I scared the hell out of myself. When I test drove the car, it began bucking and flaring like crazy. My indicator lights were flashing, VSA and Check Engine lights came on. I pulled over and the car would not shift into Park until I turned the engine off. Complete "Oh Shit!" moment! I popped the hood and the lines were not kinked and were warm, meaning fluid was flowing. Re-started the car and got it home (still exhibiting the same symptoms). I checked this DIY again to make sure I had everything properly connected.
Then I decided to make sure I had not unplugged any connectors---I didn't remember disconnecting anything. It turns out that the plug right next to the banjo fitting had come partially undone. Its the one on the left side of this picture, just below the ATF fill bolt:
When I pushed it together, it clicked and the car ran just fine after that. I took it up to Advance Auto to get the code cleared and I am now in business!
Thank you for this DIY. Remember to check your connections!
The following users liked this post:
Delaokidz6 (10-03-2021)
The following users liked this post:
Delaokidz6 (10-03-2021)
05-06-2011, 08:08 AM
#35
I have had a Magnefine filter and Transmission cooler for some time now on an Accord.This installation is much easier if you purchase the metal pipe/Banjo fitting that is on the rear of the transmission (Return line). Take off the long metal Banjo/fluid outlet pipe from the end of the filter housing and fit the new short pipe facing forward. Now there is no need to make a big loop to get the outlet pipe facing towards the front, just a neater installation.
I would be hesitant in leaving the original filter in place (I removed mine) if using a Magnefine.
While a good high flow transmission cooler is not a problem, two relatively small filters in series may be. Until someone actually measures the pressure drop in the line I would err on the side of caution, an “I think it would be ok” response is not a measurement. This cooler circuit is not a full flow or high pressure circuit. Its pressure comes from the torque convertor.
On the Magnefine filter, to state more clearly something mentioned in an earlier post. Although the filter will flow in either direction “when new”, it will not flow in either direction when clogged and it will clog easier if connected back to front.
I would be hesitant in leaving the original filter in place (I removed mine) if using a Magnefine.
While a good high flow transmission cooler is not a problem, two relatively small filters in series may be. Until someone actually measures the pressure drop in the line I would err on the side of caution, an “I think it would be ok” response is not a measurement. This cooler circuit is not a full flow or high pressure circuit. Its pressure comes from the torque convertor.
On the Magnefine filter, to state more clearly something mentioned in an earlier post. Although the filter will flow in either direction “when new”, it will not flow in either direction when clogged and it will clog easier if connected back to front.
If I do decide to leave the stock filter, I assume I should replace it as well? I am assuming the previous owner never changed it??
Last edited by nokkieny; 05-06-2011 at 08:11 AM.
05-06-2011, 08:19 AM
#36
I originally did the external magnefine filter when I did my cooler. This was before it was common knowledge that the TL had an internal filter. I ran it that way from around 40,000 miles to recently around 97,000 miles when I removed the factory filter. IMO it's just another potential restriction so I would get it out of there but obviously you don't have to. That way you only have one filter to service and it's easier than the factory filter.
09-06-2011, 06:03 PM
#39
I thought the type-s already had a filter inside the tranny.