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A-110(a): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2004-2006)

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A-110(a): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2004-2006)

 
Old 01-15-2019, 11:18 AM
  #721  
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Originally Posted by AyyoSeabass View Post
Sorry to bump an old thread but, yeah I ended up opting for the SINS switches from amazon, after 2 months, the 3rd gear switch (28610-RKE-004) still works fine and shifts are smooth through 2nd and 3rd (I had a slight shudder shifting from 2nd to 3rd on light acceleration), however, the 4th failed and I started getting the blinking D light.
It set off code P0873 -- which corresponds to 4th gear switch "open" or "stuck off" the code reader picked "stuck off"
I tried cleaning it, it still looked fine. Transmission fluid checked and everything checks out, right under the full line on the dip stick where I left it.
I even stuck a skinny allen in the switch (male end) to see if maybe some metal particles got in there, and perhaps the spring isn't actuating the switch -- that was fine as well, clean on the inside, only pink fluid came out, the switch clicked on and off like it was supposed to.
I even went as far as to check continuity when it is switched on and off (done by the allen key stuck in the side getting screwed into the transmission, you'll hear a click when you've pressed the switch) -- and even that was fine. Maybe I just got a faulty switch that failed after 2 months?
I bought an original Honda pressure switch for replacement and it solved my problem of the blinking D light. Just my two cents. Still blows my mind how that switch failed after 2 months.
I am having the exact same issue. I replaced the 3rd and 4th switches as preventative maintenance with SINS switches and got a blinking D after only 3 months. The 4th switch was also the culprit for me. Will be replacing with OEM switches ASAP.

Beware of the SINS switches from Amazon.
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:06 PM
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Ugh, this does suck. Unfortunately, it's one of those situations where I wouldn't run anything other than OEM with this Honda automatic transmission. It's just not worth it.

I would DEFINITELY replace with OEM switches asap! Great idea!
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Old 01-16-2019, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSauceBoss View Post
Huh, I suppose that makes sense. It will be interesting to see how long jasonm01 has his transmission last with just the pressure switch change. Keep us updated!
Haven't logged back on to post on this, but After about 3 weeks the shudder came back. I've been going back and forth in my head on whether or not to change the fluid. I did some research on the vehicle and found out the last trans drain/fill was done at 70K miles (now around 184K). The last oil change i got a few weeks ago I had one of the service guys check the fluid. He said it didn't smell burnt but the fluid was definitely dark. The shudder is back but only seems to do it 1) When the car is cold and 2) When accelerating VERY easily from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th (25mph to around 40mph). All in all the car drives really well and i'm still very unsure as to whether i change the fluid out. Anyone else have any thoughts? Really appreciate all the help here...
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Old 01-17-2019, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jasonm01 View Post
Haven't logged back on to post on this, but After about 3 weeks the shudder came back. I've been going back and forth in my head on whether or not to change the fluid. I did some research on the vehicle and found out the last trans drain/fill was done at 70K miles (now around 184K). The last oil change i got a few weeks ago I had one of the service guys check the fluid. He said it didn't smell burnt but the fluid was definitely dark. The shudder is back but only seems to do it 1) When the car is cold and 2) When accelerating VERY easily from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th (25mph to around 40mph). All in all the car drives really well and i'm still very unsure as to whether i change the fluid out. Anyone else have any thoughts? Really appreciate all the help here...
When you say last drain and fill do you mean a full 3x3 or just a normal transmission fluid change, which is just like 1/3 or even 1/4 of the fluid?

I personally would not do a full 3x3. That is what I did, although did not have a shutter. Only had a whine in the cold whether that most likely was the torque converter. After the 3x3 the transmission went to hell. Although I had a lot of weight in the car that day so that also helped lead to the demise Iím sure. But, a 3x3 puts in basically 100% new fluid and new fluid will clean out particles etc that could be holding things together. It is a highly abrupt change especially if none of the fluid has been changed for that long. I would sooner do a single fluid change and slowly introduce new fluid over time.

i did not read back through the posts but did you ever change the pressure switches? That would be the first suggestion if you havenít. If you did, were they aftermarket or Acura OEM switches?
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by tds166 View Post


When you say last drain and fill do you mean a full 3x3 or just a normal transmission fluid change, which is just like 1/3 or even 1/4 of the fluid?

I personally would not do a full 3x3. That is what I did, although did not have a shutter. Only had a whine in the cold whether that most likely was the torque converter. After the 3x3 the transmission went to hell. Although I had a lot of weight in the car that day so that also helped lead to the demise Iím sure. But, a 3x3 puts in basically 100% new fluid and new fluid will clean out particles etc that could be holding things together. It is a highly abrupt change especially if none of the fluid has been changed for that long. I would sooner do a single fluid change and slowly introduce new fluid over time.

i did not read back through the posts but did you ever change the pressure switches? That would be the first suggestion if you havenít. If you did, were they aftermarket or Acura OEM switches?
I did end up changing the switches out with these :
4th Gear Switch (28600-RAY-013 according to dealer)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3rd Gear Switch (28610-RKE-004 according to dealer)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm still using these switches but they are basically now performing the same as the ones I replaced.

It appears to me the previous owner did a simple 1x3 drain and refill. I'm kinda leaning towards your thinking to just do a single 1x3 and maybe drive on it for 6 months. If the car is basically driving OK (occasional shudder but nothing big), should I do this or leave well enough alone?
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Old 01-17-2019, 10:56 AM
  #726  
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Please do this correctly and pay the additional $50 ($25 each) for the OEM pressure switches. Even if there are only a handful of people who have expressed concerns with the SINS brand, would you want to risk it? With something as fragile as the 04-06 automatic transmissions, OEM parts are a no-brainer in my onion. For $50 extra, you wont' have to worry about fitment, quality, or performance. It takes the stress out of something like this, knowing you have the CORRECT part designed for your transmission.

Also, a 1x3 and driving for 6 months does seem very excessive. I would say, maybe a week or two of driving and you could continue with replacing the fluid again if you're really paranoid. Most people have performed a 1x3, drive the car for 15-20 minutes (making sure to run through each gear) and changed the fluid 2 more times with no issues.

I performed a 3x3 on my TL at 130k miles and had zero issues afterwards. The transmission actually shifted much smoother and I was happy knowing that my contaminated fluid wasn't hurting my transmission further. I also completed a 3x3 recently on my wife's RDX at 110k miles with no issues to-date. Just stay away from oil shops that offer to vacuum out your old transmission fluid. The suction method has proven to be dangerous as the debris can embed themselves in each crevice of your gears. I think that's where you would run the risk of changing all of the fluid at once.
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Old 01-17-2019, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by wusty23jd View Post
Please do this correctly and pay the additional $50 ($25 each) for the OEM pressure switches. Even if there are only a handful of people who have expressed concerns with the SINS brand, would you want to risk it? With something as fragile as the 04-06 automatic transmissions, OEM parts are a no-brainer in my onion. For $50 extra, you wont' have to worry about fitment, quality, or performance. It takes the stress out of something like this, knowing you have the CORRECT part designed for your transmission.

Also, a 1x3 and driving for 6 months does seem very excessive. I would say, maybe a week or two of driving and you could continue with replacing the fluid again if you're really paranoid. Most people have performed a 1x3, drive the car for 15-20 minutes (making sure to run through each gear) and changed the fluid 2 more times with no issues.

I performed a 3x3 on my TL at 130k miles and had zero issues afterwards. The transmission actually shifted much smoother and I was happy knowing that my contaminated fluid wasn't hurting my transmission further. I also completed a 3x3 recently on my wife's RDX at 110k miles with no issues to-date. Just stay away from oil shops that offer to vacuum out your old transmission fluid. The suction method has proven to be dangerous as the debris can embed themselves in each crevice of your gears. I think that's where you would run the risk of changing all of the fluid at once.
Thanks for all of the advice. I think I'm going to start out with a 1x3 drain/fill with DW-1 and continue to do that every 6 months. I can't see an upside to doing this right away as I could see it shocking the system and possibly causing damage. I'll report back on what happens. After I do the 2nd swap I probably will also do the switch replacement with dealer switches this time. No reason to gunk them up with bad fluid.
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Old 02-13-2019, 08:13 PM
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Deep In the middle of 3rd & 4th pressure switch change on my 2004 TL AT for the second time. Everyone please listen to "wusty", I didn't see his post about the bad SINS switches. Well I bought them crap SIMS back in November, had my mechanic install them, plus the first of the 3X tranny fluid change. Got the green blinking D light, and just found this thread couple weeks ago. Just got new OEM switches from OEMAcuraParts.com ($126.00 delivered). My guy will install them tomorrow along with a new front motor mount (that's another story) .
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Old 02-13-2019, 08:36 PM
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I have been reading these forums since November trying to diagnose that blinking green D light. There are 20 - 40 codes regarding this ailment, and finally found wusty's post - MANY THANKS to you ! Well somehow I thought my tranny had a leak , so I would just pull over add a splash, and the light would go off. Probably did this 10 plus times, till three weeks ago and I had my 3rd and final AT fluid change of the 3X. Also I realized that I could pull over, turn car off and restart - light quit blinking. Well....there was NO sign of a leak whatsoever !! Still have no idea where all that fluid was going ??!! I will update in the next few days about the PS change. Hopefully I won't have anymore problems. B
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Old 02-13-2019, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Brock's Acura TL 04 View Post
I have been reading these forums since November trying to diagnose that blinking green D light. There are 20 - 40 codes regarding this ailment, and finally found wusty's post - MANY THANKS to you ! Well somehow I thought my tranny had a leak , so I would just pull over add a splash, and the light would go off. Probably did this 10 plus times, till three weeks ago and I had my 3rd and final AT fluid change of the 3X. Also I realized that I could pull over, turn car off and restart - light quit blinking. Well....there was NO sign of a leak whatsoever !! Still have no idea where all that fluid was going ??!! I will update in the next few days about the PS change. Hopefully I won't have anymore problems. B
Check your radiator to see if it's leaking internally.

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Old 02-13-2019, 09:26 PM
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Thoiboi, do you mean water in my oil ? I am not loosing any AF, just checked it today ? How can I check to see if it's leaking internally ?? B
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Old 02-13-2019, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Brock's Acura TL 04 View Post
Thoiboi, do you mean water in my oil ? I am not loosing any AF, just checked it today ? How can I check to see if it's leaking internally ?? B

Your coolant would no longer be pure blue and be milky brown.


I thought you said you were losing ATF, I misread
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:29 PM
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Update ! Just got my car back today and am happy to report that my problem has been solved/fixed. Turns out the black switch was cracked (one was black & one gray). Just got off the phone with Amazon and after a LONG explanation of my problem with the SIMS switches (bought back in October) they decided to refund me $$ for both units plus shipping, and sent me a PP return address label ! Kudos to Amazon for the refund, even tho their return policy is only one month. Also had a new front motor mount installed, and this fixed the annoying front bumping/rattle noise.

Again, MANY THANKS to "wusty" for this thread. This forum has been an invaluable source of information for me in my short (8 month) ownership of my 2004 Acura TL. B
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Brock's Acura TL 04 View Post
Update ! Just got my car back today and am happy to report that my problem has been solved/fixed. Turns out the black switch was cracked (one was black & one gray). Just got off the phone with Amazon and after a LONG explanation of my problem with the SIMS switches (bought back in October) they decided to refund me $$ for both units plus shipping, and sent me a PP return address label ! Kudos to Amazon for the refund, even tho their return policy is only one month. Also had a new front motor mount installed, and this fixed the annoying front bumping/rattle noise.

Again, MANY THANKS to "wusty" for this thread. This forum has been an invaluable source of information for me in my short (8 month) ownership of my 2004 Acura TL. B
Did you end up reordering the OEM switches? What is the exact part number?
Going by the original posters's part #, these switches are showing up as 'oil pressure switches' when searching online.

Materials needed:
x1 3rd Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7Z-003)
x1 4th Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7W-003)
x2 sealing gasket (90471-PW7-A00)
x1 brake cleaner (to wash away residual AT fluid)
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Old 03-14-2019, 02:03 PM
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Would this benefit 2007 TL?
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Old 03-14-2019, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mazen222 View Post
Would this benefit 2007 TL?
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...2008-a-840630/
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Old 03-16-2019, 05:12 PM
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donkiboy, yes I reordered both switches from OEMAcuraParts.com $126 delivered. And yes they call them oil pressure switches. I ordered #28600 RAY 013 & #28610 RKE 004, when they came in, the RKE one had a part # change. Call them to check and they confirmed I had correct switches. Their still functioning just fine ! Make sure you order them from site mentioned. B
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Old 03-18-2019, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Brock's Acura TL 04 View Post
donkiboy, yes I reordered both switches from OEMAcuraParts.com $126 delivered. And yes they call them oil pressure switches. I ordered #28600 RAY 013 & #28610 RKE 004, when they came in, the RKE one had a part # change. Call them to check and they confirmed I had correct switches. Their still functioning just fine ! Make sure you order them from site mentioned. B
Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I've ordered both switches and the 10mm washers.
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