Ron A

Welcome to the forums and thank you for your informative post.

I merged the seven individual posts you made together into one post. Please try to attain your 5 posts in a normal manner. You have 15 days to do this because your account won't be upgraded until then.

hondeducation

so is the consensus that the varying part numbers function the same then?? I was really confused on which part numbers to go with.. so I went with the OP's part numbers x1 3rd Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7Z-003)
x1 4th Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7W-003)

this thread has been here a long time, and if the part numbers were wrong, they would have been corrected in the first post... right?

coltlauer

As I noticed that you did this recently did you just go to the dealer and get raped for the parts or did you order off of amazon or something like that? i am looking at amazon at the OEM honda part and it is saying about 45 for the 3rd switch and 50 for the 4th. does this sound right?

NoTLoud

I just got my 06 TL at 100k miles and am doing the switches immediately. Currently both are about $49 on Amazon, so yes, those prices seem consistent. I am going to go with the 28610-RKE-004 and 28600-RKE-004 switches. There seems to be 3 different part numbers out there that will fit the 3G TL's. The P7Z and P7W ones listed by OP back in 2009 seem to be outdated. However, I cannot get the gaskets off of Amazon for any kinda of reasonable price. I went to HeelToe Auto's site and went to their OEM parts page and found the same switches for an average of $43 a piece and only $2.37 for each gasket plus about $7 in shipping.


My car doesn't seem to be having terrible issues shifting, but it is not 100% smooth, if I am paying attention to the shifts, it kind of just bumps a little bit between gears. Only had the car for a week, so I'm not 100% sure how the thing is supposed to drive, but I have read from several threads to do this as a 50k preventative maintenance and as far as I know, these have never been changed on the car and is 50k miles over due. Rather shell out the $100 then a couple grand on a tranny rebuild.

smurfhunter

I bought an '06 base earlier this year. It was owned by an older woman and from all evidence not driven hard. It has 93K and I recently had the trans fluid flushed in replaced. Wish I'd known about this then, as it probably wouldn't have added too much. The car shifts better after the fluid change for sure. My only complaint is it seems it could shift faster, but I didn't have this car new, so I have no baseline for what is normal.

So this can be done without changing the trans fluid? If not I might wait 30K or so.

Also, as preventative maintenance - is the scenario that if/when these pressure switches fail, it's catastrophic, or is it that a worn/degraded switch is slowly causes improper wear or other damage?

NoTLoud

Same issue for me, no baseline on how exactly it should shift. I test drove 2 others before I bought my TL. I'm the second owner and as far as I know, this car didn't get driven too hard either. Bought it right at 100,500 miles.

As far as replacing the switches, this thread tells me that only a small amount of tranny fluid will leak out when changing out the switch. Shouldn't even require a topping off and doesn't require the fluid to be changed.

I have no clue if my switches have ever been replaced, guessing they never have been. I'm not taking the risk and doing them ASAP, they should get here Saturday, so I will likely do them Sunday.

From reading around, it sounds like when the switches start to fail, they fail fast. If you have any doubts, I would do them ASAP! It seems that a lot of people on the forum are doing them every 50k. I may do them every 30k because I'd rather spend $100 than a couple grand. Tranny fluid people recommend every 15k. Dealer just did mine before I bought the car, not sure to what extent. I will being doing the 3x3 change with my first oil change at ~105k. Probably with Redline D4. That'll cost me about $100 as well, but again, better than the alternative could grand.

smurfhunter

Very good and thanks for the reply. Will replacing these switches be a DIY job for you? I see these on amazon prime for $27 each. If this is truly a shade tree mechanic job, that can be completed on jack stands in the driveway, I'm really interested. Gaskets were a bit overpriced on amazon.com, but $8 a piece for two is certainly a bargain compared to shop labor rates.

Switches claim to include the gaskets:
(for my 2006)
28610-RKE-004 (3rd gear) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KDXT7DU
28600-RKE-004 (4th gear) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KDXS18W

NoTLoud

I saw those on Amazon as well. They aren't OEM, but the reviews seem to be good. I was hesitant on buying them because I wasn't sure how they would do in the car. I couldn't really find anyone on here who had bought them and put them in their car. If I had evidence that they were reliable I would have saved the money and bought them, but I didn't want to take any chances on them failing on me. Of course, the OEM ones are failing and causing people issues too, so I don't really know what the best option is.

As far as the job goes, it looks pretty simple. Look at the pictures on the first page of the post, it seems you can do it quite easily with the car on stands or a lift. Some of them are missing, but there are other threads and pictures throughout this thread that should help you out. Looks like an hour job or so. Only tool I need to purchase for it is a 22mm wrench to loosen the pressure switches. I've been doing almost all the work on my cars for the last 2 years and this job looks like a simple one. It's all just one big puzzle.

smurfhunter

Regarding buying parts on amazon:

No offense to anyone posting here, but reviews from people I don't know on Amazon hold just as much merit to me as people I don't know on this forum. So I'm going to go with the lowest price, and best return/shipping terms. I saw at least 4 reviews that explicitly installed onto a 2006 TL base. If it acts up after a couple months, I'll put but the originals and return to amazon for a full refund. My wife returns kids clothes and everything imaginable to amazon. They rarely give any complaint. My local honda dealer would likely give me the middle finger

thoiboi

OEM or bust but hey, what do we know...


Good luck.

smurfhunter

Fair point and thanks for the reminder. I did find original Honda parts on amazon prime. Double the price, but I'm not trashing my car over $50.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMLAHHU
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FYHAWM0

nist7

Exactly. Why save a few bucks on a transmission that would cost 2500+ to repair.replace? Go OEM in these arenas are no brainer imo.

Thanks for the amazon find. I just had mine done 2 years ago so I should be good to go for at least another 3-4 years before I look at another change again.

NoTLoud

Yeah, that's basically the same logic I applied. I could save $50, but is that $50 worth it if the switches do suddenly fail and I'm having to get my transmission rebuilt?

As far as getting the parts from Amazon, if you're going OEM, you can find them cheaper at HeelToe Auto, but depending on where you're located it may take a little longer to get to you. It looks like they source it after you buy it, causing a delay between order date and ship date. I ordered them Monday, they shipped Wednesday, and will get them Saturday. They ship from HeelToe with 2-3 day priority shipping and were $43 a piece, plus $3 fro the two crush washers. I am in NC and HeelToe is in Wisconsin (I believe), so they are coming quite a ways.

thoiboi

I believe Marcus (Heeltoe) is based in Oregon now. He used to be in SoCal

nist7

Yeah when I got my TL and actually started actively posting on this forum was able to find a local guy who was also very active (swoosh) in the KC area and he had a buddy with a hook up to Acura/Honda OEM parts so I was able to just get it that way. I'll need to look for a good source from here on out.

I've had luck just taking part numbers to the local Honda dealer (since these 5ATs are also used in V6 Accords et. al.) and getting the part that way at a bit lower price than the local Acura dealer (other examples include brake, PSF, ATF fluids, etc.) So I could try that as well instead of online ordering.

NoTLoud

Hey nist,

How many miles are on your tranny and how does it shift?

Mine seems to shift a little harder than it should sometimes or hang for like a half-second when shifting (most noticeable between 2nd to 3rd), especially when the engine isn't entirely warmed up. I've noticed it will also down-shift a little strange at times too, but not very often.
I've also noticed if I give the car a little more gas (ie: don't baby it), then it will shift better.

Hopefully I am just paranoid because I just bought the car and don't want the tranny to go.

nist7

Bought it with 160k, now at 186k. Pressure switches replaced, and did a 6x3 DW-1 ATF change right when I got it, also change the ATF filter (the old one looked all busted up) near the fill bolt area as well, and been doing a 2x3 DW-1 ATF drain+fill every other oil change (so basically a 4x3 every year). It's probably overkill but the local Honda dealer is nice and its only like $9/qt for the ATF and I do the work myself and it keeps a running supply of fresh ATF in there on a near constant basis. Shifting 98% of the time is very smooth. Sometimes I do get some hard upshifts like you said in colder/slower rpms. Under hard acceleration it does great with no issues.

As i said...i think many people either forget about the transmission fluid as a regular maintenance item or don't know about these delicate 5ATs and so they follow Honda's maintenance minder/schedule book...which is something ridicuous like every 30k for hard driving and up to 60k for non-harsh conditions....before a flush/atf replace...which IMO is way too long and likely contributes to lot of failures/issues.

So I'm more paranoid and I would rather spend a few bucks a year to keep a fresh supply of ATF rather than running the trans for many miles/years and then get all new fluids (not to mention the annoying repeated drain & fill...lest you want to spend hundreds at the Stealership to get it flushed in one go (which is not a listed procedure in the service manual...but maybe dealer techs have diff manuals.....)

I fully expect this transmission to go north of 250k miles with the above procedure and I truly would be greatful when/if it reaches 300k miles. My last 1995 Accord I sold it at 290k miles and it was still going strong!!!

nist7

Didn't see a reply to this so...from what I've read and discussed with a Azine member who is local to my city....the safe interval is something like every 60k-80k (ish) miles. These are NOT a maintenance item listed by Honda but it seems the feeling on this forum is they can last >50k miles but safe to change it out before <100k miles.

I'll see how my 5AT shifts as the miles/years go on. I have about 28k on a new set of switches so should be good to go for at least another 30-40k miles....

coltlauer

just for everyones information doing this job, if you go through Acurapartsforless vice amazon its actually cheaper and its OEM parts where they match the VIN to be sure. It cost me about 13 dollars less ordering through them and they threw in the crush gaskets with them. In total it was about 82 dollars w/shipping vs 95 on amazon and they delivered in 2 days.

thesynic

I replaced these pressure switches in my 2008 MDX and thought I would share.

neo_1221

After looking through this thread I'm confused about what the correct part numbers are for the pressure switches. The original post says 28600-P7Z-003 and 28600-P7W-003, but it looks like 28600-P7W-013 may have replaced 28600-P7W-003? There are also posts saying 28610-ray-013 and 28600-ray-003 (which seem to have been replaced with 28610-RKE-004 and 28600-RKE-004, but these seem to be for the 07-08 TL's). Can anybody confirm what's correct for an '05 TL?

thoiboi

OEM Acura TL SEDAN 2005 AT SENSOR - SOLENOID (-'06) parts

neo_1221

Thanks! Looks like the RKE ones are correct - I bookmarked that site for future reference.

EagleEye

Hey dude. I've done the switches 3 times. I bought mine used at 69K. Immediately did the Redline 3x3 flush and sensors. But, I drove it pretty hard (like... HARD) for about 3 mos and did not change the fluid. So, it burned and eventually car stopped shifting in gear (I was able to reverse).

I had a friend who used to work for Acura as a master tech and opened a shop. He recommended going with a Jasper rebuild as they made minor changes to improve the Honda AT design. Anywhow, rebuilt tranny came with 100K/3year warranty. However, you have to flush fluid every 25K and use only the new Honda DW1. I actually do mine every 15K (every 4-5 oil changes). I have changed the sensors twice since the new transmission (@ 30K and @65K). I notice that the shifts into 3rd and 4th were less smooth and jerks depending on RPM. Good time to change. I usually do clean fluids first and then change the sensors (you can do the jobs separately). You barely leak any fluid (like a few drops).

Make sure it's pink and doesn't smell burnt. Change sensors when it feels jerky or delayed. A lot of you guys bought the car second hand and do not know how it should shift... It should shift quick and smooth You shouldn't feel ANYTHING if it's in good shape (unless you're using the Redline Racing stuff w/ no friction modifier... then it's quick and a bit jerky). Google some vids. You'll see how smooth and quick it shifts.

NoTLoud

Yes! I just replaced my switches with the RKE ones this weekend. No issues with fitment at all, just different colors than stock ones, so make sure you know which switch is which.

Shifts are a lot smoother now! I am so happy!
Before I replaced the switches, I was noticing when the car was shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th, the tranny would hang for about a half second. So I could tell it was going to shift, but it would take it an additional half second before it actually got into gear. Basically there was a noticeable lag, but I didn't feel the transmission was slipping. As far as I can tell, 2 days later, this issue has been resolved by the switches.

The car has 101k miles on it and I assume the previous owner had never had these done. The switches I pulled look pretty old.


This is about a 15-30 min job. SUPER EASY! I only had to buy a 22mm wrench, which was about $8. Well, I also had to buy a breaker bar and socket for the lug nuts, but I'm building up my tool collection since I'm living on my own now.

neo_1221

I was noticing the same thing on my TL. Replaced the switches this weekend, and it's noticeably smoother (I guess I shouldn't be surprised, after all the comments in this thread). Like you said, it was an easy job - took maybe 30 minutes. Next up is a 3x3 drain and fill, and replacing the transmission filter!

NoTLoud

I still have some very minor issues with my shifting occasionally. I just got my case of 12 quarts of Honda DW1 ATF this weekend (~$100 from Amazon including a pack of 5 crush washers). Plan on doing the 3x3 this weekend while I am at home for Thanksgiving with my Dad! Transmission filter is on my list as well. I'm sure that hasn't been changed on this car. Looks like that thing will basically be falling apart after seeing some threads on replacing it.

I wasn't necessarily expecting to spend so much time and money on maintenance on the car right after buying it, but for the piece of mind to know exactly when certain things were done, I believe it's worth it. I'll be paying the car off for a couple years, so I want to make sure it will last me that long. Depending on how it's doing when I officially own it, I will keep it or dump it. Hopefully keep.

coltlauer

Just did this install with the 3x3 this weekend and it made an amazing difference. The shifting is so much smoother. Thanks for the great DIY.

Ibis

Can anyone help me out with pictures? I plan to do this with car jack but im a total noob when it comes to car maintenance, I have all the require tools but im not sure where to start. If i understand corretly the 3rd and 4th gear switch are behind the left and right front wheels ? I know you need to remove the "shroud" but is there any tutorial onhow to remove the shrouds or pictures of what it look like? I know this is an old thread but i only had my tl for 2 months so far and ive done everything i could do myself or afford at the stealership and would like to keep the car for a long time. Thx

swimgeek44

Having my struts done and talked the shop into doing 3rd and 4th pressure switches at the same time, despite being baffled as to why.

I'll see if there's any noticeable difference, but happy I finally am taking care of this.

110k miles 2006

Ibis

Sorry im posting again in hope i will get an answer, the diy guide seems pretty good and easy to do but at the begining i think they skippeda step by not saying where exactly are the switch? The only information i have is * You first undo the two 10mm bolts that hold a shroud* so which shroud is it? is it behind the shroud of the front wheels or rear wheels or only behind one wheel? Thank you. @sixsixfour

MikeTC

Both (3rd & 4th gear) switches and shroud are behind the front driver side wheel. The shroud is toward the front of the driver side wheel. (Good luck).

Ibis

Thank you a lot Mike for the reply appreciate it.

Le7316

So I guess these switches are only good for 04-06 folks ? What about the 07-08 ( Base and Type S 6MT) ?

thoiboi

Time to teach a man to fish. Whatever you want to look for just go onto google type it in and add "site:acurazine.com" to the end. in this case, you would put 07 08 transmission switch site:acurazine.com like so: https://www.google.com/search?q=07+0...hrome&ie=UTF-8



and you'd come up with the proper results.. also these switches are for Automatic transmissions, not MT..

Ibis

Does anyone know the torque need to tighten the pressure switches? I would like to do this maintenance myself but i think theres a specific number in pounds/newton you need in order to installed it properly? Or did you guys simply tighten it as much as you could?

PileofSticks

I just did "good and tight" on the switches I replaced today, but then again, I do that on a lot of things. Lol. So far I haven't had any trouble that I know of.

PileofSticks

I just replaced both the third and fourth gear switches on my 2006 TL I just bought and it made a huge difference! I'm sure they were never changed previously. The car has 148k miles and I noticed the famous shudder from 3rd to 4th gear and that's gone now. I bought a knock off brand SINS from amazon for $27 each.
Thank you to the OP for this DIY!

Part numbers below:

P7W-003 28600-P7W-013

28600-P7Z-003 28600-P7Z-013

Si_jeff

Hey, does anybody know or can confirm if the parts 28600-RAY-013 and 28600-RKE-004 interchangeable? The RAY are on the parts list on the MDX while the RKE is on the TL-S.

thoiboi

unlikely.

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/oem-pa...re-28600ray013