A-110(a): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2004-2006)
#401
FTW
I just performed this maint. after 90k's on original switches.
Noticable gains in shift quality. I would rate this fairly easy, once you remove all the plastic shrouds and clips. First time attempting this took me 2 hours - because some of the pictures were so close I lost the perspective of what i'm looking at.
I got 9Qts of Redline incoming as well.
Noticable gains in shift quality. I would rate this fairly easy, once you remove all the plastic shrouds and clips. First time attempting this took me 2 hours - because some of the pictures were so close I lost the perspective of what i'm looking at.
I got 9Qts of Redline incoming as well.
#404
Racer
Its amazing.
Dont forget to read this, post 95!
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=834299&page=3
#405
FTW
You think its good now, wait until that redline comes in!
Its amazing.
Dont forget to read this, post 95!
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=834299&page=3
Its amazing.
Dont forget to read this, post 95!
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=834299&page=3
I got 7Qts of D4 and 2Qts of Racing.
#406
I have an 06 tl with 135000km on clock.A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light which turned out to be 2 codes, a misfire and torque converter - the car drove fine mind you.
Took the car to the shop, cleared the codes and did a tranny flush with original honda fluid using a transmission machine so all the oil was changed.Car drove fine - no issues.
Fast forward 2 weeks and the tansmission was hesitating/shuddering before going into 3rd/4th the problem would come and go. Parked the car, did some reading on this site and had the pressure sensors changed today.
The car drove incredibly well but the problem came back a few hours later but not to the same extent, it would hesitate a little before shifting gears. I love the car and am really worried about the possibility of having to get a new transmission.
Would you suggest changing the fluid to Redline? It seems to be the popular choice based on people's experiences here.
what steps should i take to save the transmission - and is that even possible at this point?
Took the car to the shop, cleared the codes and did a tranny flush with original honda fluid using a transmission machine so all the oil was changed.Car drove fine - no issues.
Fast forward 2 weeks and the tansmission was hesitating/shuddering before going into 3rd/4th the problem would come and go. Parked the car, did some reading on this site and had the pressure sensors changed today.
The car drove incredibly well but the problem came back a few hours later but not to the same extent, it would hesitate a little before shifting gears. I love the car and am really worried about the possibility of having to get a new transmission.
Would you suggest changing the fluid to Redline? It seems to be the popular choice based on people's experiences here.
what steps should i take to save the transmission - and is that even possible at this point?
#407
Chapter Leader (Arkansas)
I wouldn't recommend changing the fluids again. I've heard that changing them too frequently can be hard on the engine. Beyond that, based on your description coupled with an error code for the torque converter, it sounds like the converter is bad and/or tranny has started to fail. I would take it back to the shop and have them evaluate both and see what they say. If it is no longer under warranty, take it to an independent shop (may be cheaper) and you might get a 2nd opinion. That is what I would do.
I have an 06 tl with 135000km on clock.A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light which turned out to be 2 codes, a misfire and torque converter - the car drove fine mind you.
Took the car to the shop, cleared the codes and did a tranny flush with original honda fluid using a transmission machine so all the oil was changed.Car drove fine - no issues.
Fast forward 2 weeks and the tansmission was hesitating/shuddering before going into 3rd/4th the problem would come and go. Parked the car, did some reading on this site and had the pressure sensors changed today.
The car drove incredibly well but the problem came back a few hours later but not to the same extent, it would hesitate a little before shifting gears. I love the car and am really worried about the possibility of having to get a new transmission.
Would you suggest changing the fluid to Redline? It seems to be the popular choice based on people's experiences here.
what steps should i take to save the transmission - and is that even possible at this point?
Took the car to the shop, cleared the codes and did a tranny flush with original honda fluid using a transmission machine so all the oil was changed.Car drove fine - no issues.
Fast forward 2 weeks and the tansmission was hesitating/shuddering before going into 3rd/4th the problem would come and go. Parked the car, did some reading on this site and had the pressure sensors changed today.
The car drove incredibly well but the problem came back a few hours later but not to the same extent, it would hesitate a little before shifting gears. I love the car and am really worried about the possibility of having to get a new transmission.
Would you suggest changing the fluid to Redline? It seems to be the popular choice based on people's experiences here.
what steps should i take to save the transmission - and is that even possible at this point?
#408
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (6)
I have an 06 tl with 135000km on clock.A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light which turned out to be 2 codes, a misfire and torque converter - the car drove fine mind you.
Took the car to the shop, cleared the codes and did a tranny flush with original honda fluid using a transmission machine so all the oil was changed.Car drove fine - no issues.
Fast forward 2 weeks and the tansmission was hesitating/shuddering before going into 3rd/4th the problem would come and go. Parked the car, did some reading on this site and had the pressure sensors changed today.
The car drove incredibly well but the problem came back a few hours later but not to the same extent, it would hesitate a little before shifting gears. I love the car and am really worried about the possibility of having to get a new transmission.
Would you suggest changing the fluid to Redline? It seems to be the popular choice based on people's experiences here.
what steps should i take to save the transmission - and is that even possible at this point?
Took the car to the shop, cleared the codes and did a tranny flush with original honda fluid using a transmission machine so all the oil was changed.Car drove fine - no issues.
Fast forward 2 weeks and the tansmission was hesitating/shuddering before going into 3rd/4th the problem would come and go. Parked the car, did some reading on this site and had the pressure sensors changed today.
The car drove incredibly well but the problem came back a few hours later but not to the same extent, it would hesitate a little before shifting gears. I love the car and am really worried about the possibility of having to get a new transmission.
Would you suggest changing the fluid to Redline? It seems to be the popular choice based on people's experiences here.
what steps should i take to save the transmission - and is that even possible at this point?
Install a B&M transmission cooler and magnafine inline filter
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/116-diy-transmission-cooler-5at-magnefine-filter-lots-pics-754752/
Never ever do a transmission flush, always a drain and fill. Drain and fill your transmisison using 8 quarts of Redline Racing ATF and 1 quart of Redline D4 ATF, this ratio is really up to you, I know some people are mixing other things. I personally run 8 Racing ATF and 1 D4 ATF. Research this before performing it, I'm not going to explain the 3x3 process.
#409
I wouldn't recommend changing the fluids again. I've heard that changing them too frequently can be hard on the engine. Beyond that, based on your description coupled with an error code for the torque converter, it sounds like the converter is bad and/or tranny has started to fail. I would take it back to the shop and have them evaluate both and see what they say. If it is no longer under warranty, take it to an independent shop (may be cheaper) and you might get a 2nd opinion. That is what I would do.
There's no check engine light on, so what would i be getting evaluated?
The fluid seems to be fine color/smell wise. How can the converter be checked?
Other than dropping the tranny and taking it apart i don't see how this could be properly diagnosed.
Maybe I should look into buying a low mileage tranny off a wrecked tl and swapping the pressure sensors with the new ones I just bought?
#410
Since you took the effort to search and actually found this thread (even though the info you're asking for is on this thread) I shall give you some tips.
Install a B&M transmission cooler and magnafine inline filter
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=754752
Never ever do a transmission flush, always a drain and fill. Drain and fill your transmisison using 8 quarts of Redline Racing ATF and 1 quart of Redline D4 ATF, this ratio is really up to you, I know some people are mixing other things. I personally run 8 Racing ATF and 1 D4 ATF. Research this before performing it, I'm not going to explain the 3x3 process.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5brWVDZrg
Install a B&M transmission cooler and magnafine inline filter
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=754752
Never ever do a transmission flush, always a drain and fill. Drain and fill your transmisison using 8 quarts of Redline Racing ATF and 1 quart of Redline D4 ATF, this ratio is really up to you, I know some people are mixing other things. I personally run 8 Racing ATF and 1 D4 ATF. Research this before performing it, I'm not going to explain the 3x3 process.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5brWVDZrg
Sorry, maybe this has been explained already but Im at work and don't have time to go through all the related threads. Why is a full flush a bad idea? Isn't completely replacing the fluid the goal here?
#411
Chapter Leader (Arkansas)
I may be confused, but in your original thread, you said you changed the pressure switches already. Did you buy new pressure sensors since replacing them a few weeks back? That may clear up some confusion on my/our part.
No matter your answer (not said to be rude), if my car spit two error codes, I always go to the problem(s). I would wonder "why" the codes appeared to begin with. Did the dealer/shop give any indication as to why you got both codes? A torque converter code, in my opinion, is pretty serious of a code. Now, with computers, anything is possible and it could have been an error; however, your "symptoms" seem to support something more than just a computer spitting out a code in error.
Back to your question, I can't speak intelligently on the how-to's of finding out if the converter is bad. I don't believe a tranny can be looked at without a complete breakdown. If it is the tranny, and if it was me, I would drive it until failure (but that is a risk for you to determine). I would focus on symptoms and the torque converter and see what can be done. Eliminate and move on. Eliminate and move on...
On a side note, I recall seeing someone selling an engine/tranny on here for like $1000 (you may want to check).
Again, just trying to help. Good luck.
No matter your answer (not said to be rude), if my car spit two error codes, I always go to the problem(s). I would wonder "why" the codes appeared to begin with. Did the dealer/shop give any indication as to why you got both codes? A torque converter code, in my opinion, is pretty serious of a code. Now, with computers, anything is possible and it could have been an error; however, your "symptoms" seem to support something more than just a computer spitting out a code in error.
Back to your question, I can't speak intelligently on the how-to's of finding out if the converter is bad. I don't believe a tranny can be looked at without a complete breakdown. If it is the tranny, and if it was me, I would drive it until failure (but that is a risk for you to determine). I would focus on symptoms and the torque converter and see what can be done. Eliminate and move on. Eliminate and move on...
On a side note, I recall seeing someone selling an engine/tranny on here for like $1000 (you may want to check).
Again, just trying to help. Good luck.
There's no check engine light on, so what would i be getting evaluated?
The fluid seems to be fine color/smell wise. How can the converter be checked?
Other than dropping the tranny and taking it apart i don't see how this could be properly diagnosed.
Maybe I should look into buying a low mileage tranny off a wrecked tl and swapping the pressure sensors with the new ones I just bought?
The fluid seems to be fine color/smell wise. How can the converter be checked?
Other than dropping the tranny and taking it apart i don't see how this could be properly diagnosed.
Maybe I should look into buying a low mileage tranny off a wrecked tl and swapping the pressure sensors with the new ones I just bought?
#412
The codes came out 3 weeks ago. No symptoms at all - car drove as good as the day i got it.
The codes appeared on a saturday. I parked the car and didn't drive it until i took it to the shop on monday to see what the codes were.
No symptoms/problems at all - so i had them clear the codes and do a flush.
This monday the symptoms started. Again, parked the car until this morning when it went to the shop - the pressure sensors were replaced only once - this morning.
The codes appeared on a saturday. I parked the car and didn't drive it until i took it to the shop on monday to see what the codes were.
No symptoms/problems at all - so i had them clear the codes and do a flush.
This monday the symptoms started. Again, parked the car until this morning when it went to the shop - the pressure sensors were replaced only once - this morning.
#413
Chapter Leader (Arkansas)
Well, if no symptoms when error codes appeared, but now symptoms are appearing (even though no reproduced codes), something may be going on. Eliminate and move on. You put on new switches and the symptoms are present, albeit less pronounced...eliminate switches and tranny fluid and keep looking. The only other thing I could think of with switches would be if they switched them (3rd to 4th and 4th to 3rd (not likely if Acura dealer did it). Keep working it. But...I keep coming back to error code...no symptoms...then symptoms that may support the initial error code.
#414
The switches were done at a family friend's shop.When i drove the car right after the work was done the shifting was butter-smooth so I really doubt they messed up when doing the switches.
I will go ahead with the fluid, right after I do more research on Azine regarding the 3x3 and which fluid is best suited for the job.
I just hope it isnt a moot point by now and im better off getting a new transmission.
I will go ahead with the fluid, right after I do more research on Azine regarding the 3x3 and which fluid is best suited for the job.
I just hope it isnt a moot point by now and im better off getting a new transmission.
#415
I'll add that my results were similar to many posters. I just replaced both switches (myself) at 77k and the shift quality has improved noticeably but not dramatically. I think the best description I've read is that the transmission feels more "hooked up", less indecisiveness. The job was easy and I only got a little squirt of fluid out of the 3rd switch, nothing on the 4th. I used the original switches specified on the parts diagrams for the TL not the ones given in the 1st post. The originals are $10 cheaper each, not sure if that means the other are higher quality (i.e. higher temperature). I just wonder how much of the life of the tranny got burned off as the switches degraded. They probably should be done every 50k as people have noted.
#416
Mons shaver
Can someone help me find the thread that discusses the pressure switch part numbers for the 07-08 TLs?
I know there used to be one, but I've searched under pressure switches and couldn't find it and its not listed in the garage.
Thanks
I know there used to be one, but I've searched under pressure switches and couldn't find it and its not listed in the garage.
Thanks
#417
Team Owner
iTrader: (4)
There you go.
I've done it twice now. Takes some time and a couple essential tools but it is very do-able. Pay my airfare and I'll come to HI to help ya.
Enjoy.
The following users liked this post:
magnod (07-30-2012)
#418
Mons shaver
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840630
There you go.
I've done it twice now. Takes some time and a couple essential tools but it is very do-able. Pay my airfare and I'll come to HI to help ya.
Enjoy.
There you go.
I've done it twice now. Takes some time and a couple essential tools but it is very do-able. Pay my airfare and I'll come to HI to help ya.
Enjoy.
I thought doing it once when changing over to a different ATF was supposed to be enough.
#420
Mons shaver
#421
Ok ... so here's the story. I bought my 04 TL 5AT from a used car dealer, had it for 3 weeks and the trans began to shudder upon warmup from 2>3 and 3>4 under normal acceleration. I had a mechanic replace the switches (with the old part numbers first) and do a 1x3 (Castrol). The shutter went away for a couple of weeks and returned. My dad and I just re-did the switches with the redesigned switches and the first 1x3 change over to Redline ATF (2 racing + 1 lightweight). On the first couple of test runs it still shuddered from 3->4 under normal acceleration but cleared (like it normally does after you run for 10-15 minutes). I plan on doing the next round of ATF this coming weekend (1 racing + 2 lightweight) and that will put roughly 300 miles on the car after the fluid change.
I have not cleaned the trans filter (yet) or anything else.
Any suggestions for a newb? Thanks ahead of time.
I have not cleaned the trans filter (yet) or anything else.
Any suggestions for a newb? Thanks ahead of time.
#422
Advanced
I'm new to this site and i'm experiencing this shuddering problem with the tranny. I'm going to have it done this coming week at some point. My question is are these switches a dealer only part, or can i buy them elsewhere?
#423
08 MDX, 04 TL (sold)
iTrader: (1)
THIS!!!
If you have odd vibration from 30-40MPH, you have transmission shudder that is wearing out your transmission and you need to get rid of it immediately. These switches fix it. I was experiencing this around 115k and swapped out the switched. I'm at 180k and it hasn't been back.
... hmmmmm... Maybe it's time for me to replace these switches again.
#425
05 TL NAVI here looking to replaced the sensors. Can someone confirm the quantity and part #s needed to do this?
1X - 28600-RAY-003
2X - 28610-RAY-003
Do I need to order anything else? Also, is there a DIY on a tranny fluid exchange?
thanks!
1X - 28600-RAY-003
2X - 28610-RAY-003
Do I need to order anything else? Also, is there a DIY on a tranny fluid exchange?
thanks!
#426
FTW
edit - why do you need 2X - 28610-RAY-003 ???, you only need one of them.
edit 2 - I guess people don't read these days, look here for DIY https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=408
Last edited by lusid; 08-09-2012 at 10:51 AM.
#427
FTW
If you have 100k, i would do ONE 3x1, wait for 5-10k miles, perform the next 3x1, and so forth. I would also do the switches during your FIRST 3x1.
Good luck.
#428
FTW
Hey Jhumbo,
Glad I wasnt the only one who noticed that odd 30-40mph vibration issue magically dissapear once the switches got replaced. If you are at 180k I would totally get 3rd/4th refreshed!
Glad I wasnt the only one who noticed that odd 30-40mph vibration issue magically dissapear once the switches got replaced. If you are at 180k I would totally get 3rd/4th refreshed!
^
THIS!!!
If you have odd vibration from 30-40MPH, you have transmission shudder that is wearing out your transmission and you need to get rid of it immediately. These switches fix it. I was experiencing this around 115k and swapped out the switched. I'm at 180k and it hasn't been back.
... hmmmmm... Maybe it's time for me to replace these switches again.
THIS!!!
If you have odd vibration from 30-40MPH, you have transmission shudder that is wearing out your transmission and you need to get rid of it immediately. These switches fix it. I was experiencing this around 115k and swapped out the switched. I'm at 180k and it hasn't been back.
... hmmmmm... Maybe it's time for me to replace these switches again.
#429
Instructor
Just ordered the switches!
My project for next weekend...
No noticable tranny issues yet, 112,XXX on the car though and still original switches as far as I know. Will offer my after it's done. Thanks for the DIY
My project for next weekend...
No noticable tranny issues yet, 112,XXX on the car though and still original switches as far as I know. Will offer my after it's done. Thanks for the DIY
#430
Instructor
#431
FTW
Parts for 2004 - 2006 TL shown below.
oemacuraparts.com
90471-PW7-A00-Acura GASKET (10MM) $1.89
(Not Taxable) 2 $3.78
28600-RAY-003-Acura SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS) $33.97
(Not Taxable) 1 $33.97
28610-RAY-003-Acura SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS) $33.97
(Not Taxable) 1 $33.97
90471-PW7-A00-Acura GASKET (10MM) $1.89
(Not Taxable) 2 $3.78
28600-RAY-003-Acura SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS) $33.97
(Not Taxable) 1 $33.97
28610-RAY-003-Acura SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS) $33.97
(Not Taxable) 1 $33.97
#432
#433
Instructor
http://acura.bernardiparts.com/
The website is pretty convenient to use too. The 2 switches and washers and shipping cost me $87.59 (UPS is the only shipping option)
#436
Instructor
I order all my parts from Bernardi Honda, not sure how their prices stack up against OEMAcuraParts but they always do pretty good for me.
http://acura.bernardiparts.com/
The website is pretty convenient to use too. The 2 switches and washers and shipping cost me $87.59 (UPS is the only shipping option)
http://acura.bernardiparts.com/
The website is pretty convenient to use too. The 2 switches and washers and shipping cost me $87.59 (UPS is the only shipping option)
#437
Just an update ... it took a couple of days but the shudder went away. Feeling a difference with the 2nd round of redline ATF (2 lightweight & 1 type F) so hopefully I caught it in just in time or I at least bought myself several thousand more miles before a rebuild (I'm seriously hoping the former).
I'm thinking an every other motor oil interval for an ATF 1x3 for me personally. Anybody got any thoughts on that?
I'm thinking an every other motor oil interval for an ATF 1x3 for me personally. Anybody got any thoughts on that?
#439
FTW
General / Stupid Question - I have a toyota and want to perform a similar maintenance on the SUV.
Transmission switches and Oil pressure switches related? If i look for switches on my Highlander I should look around the Transmission similar to the TL?
I'm confused if these switches are transmission specific and or would we find these switches in the engine block.
/confused lol
Transmission switches and Oil pressure switches related? If i look for switches on my Highlander I should look around the Transmission similar to the TL?
I'm confused if these switches are transmission specific and or would we find these switches in the engine block.
/confused lol
#440
I would suggest finding a Toyota forum specific to your model. Then focus on the common problems to that model. Everything will be different and the Toyota trans will have it's own strengths and weaknesses.