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I just emailed with Tim, our vendor also , and he said the RKE supersedes RAY, also I saw a DIY on youtube on his 2008 MDX and he used 2 RKE switches instead of the RAY .
Does anyone know the torque need to tighten the pressure switches? I would like to do this maintenance myself but i think theres a specific number in pounds/newton you need in order to installed it properly? Or did you guys simply tighten it as much as you could?
yes, 14 ft-lb
That is quite low, so use an inch-lb torque wrench and torque to 168 in-lb.
Hey guys ive got a noob question, ive tried to do the pressure switches today but had an issue with a connector/cable. I have no idea how to unplug it ive tried pressing on the tab thingy but it wont unplug. Does anyone know how to release the cable on this picture ? Thx
it's probably corroded , try pushing with pliers and prying with a flat head screw driver
Had a day off so i decide to give it another go. I was able to pull the cable out thx to your advice but i then realized i didnt need to remove that cable to do the job at all XD.
Changed both 3rd and 4th pressure switch with their gaskets (also did the pcv valve which is unrelated). Shift feels a lot more smoother. Quick tip to save money, the amount of transmission fluid lost is so minimal you dont need to buy a transmission fluid bottle at all if your fluid level is already good. Thx everyone for the tips and this guide.
I just did this this past weekend as well. Extremely easy, though my biggest socket was a 20mm so I ended up running to the hardware store for an extended 22mm,
Shifts feel noticeably better, and my 3rd gear "shudder" is 90% gone. I figure since I'm running old as hell transmission fluid, this will go away once I can drain and refill with new Acura dw-1 next weekend. (I got 9 quarts for 67 bucks shipped off acura.bernardipartsdotcom), along with an oem trans filter kit off ebay.
The switches themselves are easy though. There's also videos on youtube that added tips and tricks when removing them.
the 07-08s have an extra 3rd gear sensor/switch to replace, as noted by Majofo above. I believe I read somewhere that they use a tranny similar to/or based on the RL tranny.
for preventive maintenance, these switches are worth it imo. i for one have noticed an improvement within the first few minutes of driving.
I know this is an old post but can I put the 2007 tangy in my 2006 tl?
2007-2008 tl used the RL transmission, if you want to absolutely change tranny i think the only alternative is the honda accord v6 (you will need to change the range switch though).
Last year I thought my automatic transmission was destroyed as it downshifted 1 or 2 gears by itself on the highway and it wouldn't let me upshift in manual mode. Once in the city driving it wouldn't go past 3rd gear from what I remember. Considering how far my commute was to work, I was considering selling the car and possibly finding a job closer to home during this situation. Thank you OP. Read this thread last year, did the pressure switches as well as the gear position sensor and AT fluid 3x3. My car has been running great ever since.
Thanks OP. Just did this last week-end. Hardest part for me was the 10mm bolts holding the plastic case. Lower bolt would not budge until I soaked in pb blaster. I also could not undo the clip highlighted in post 684. But using a 22 mm socket, I was also able to remove the 3rd switch without undoing the clip. 1 tablespoon of atf leaked out of 3rd during procedure, nothing leaked out of 4th. Not much difference in driving, but I had no issues before. Just preventive maintenance.
I apologize in advance Sixsixfour, but im a bit desperate. I have a acura TSX 2010 and I would like to replace the 3rd gear pressure switch since im getting the D blinking. im just asking that you point me in the right direction as to where i can purchase this switch. Product number or links pleaseeeeeee
I apologize in advance Sixsixfour, but im a bit desperate. I have a acura TSX 2010 and I would like to replace the 3rd gear pressure switch since im getting the D blinking. im just asking that you point me in the right direction as to where i can purchase this switch. Product number or links pleaseeeeeee
How can I distinguish between the 3rd gear switch and the 4 gear switch ???the part only says "Switch Assembly, AT Oil Pressure" maybe im not looking at the right thing
Thanks so much for posting this! I created an account just to post my thanks here. I've experienced this shudder for a few months and didn't have a clue as to what it was. I asked a dealer and they pointed towards a potential motor mount issue. Turns out, it was as simple as these two pressure switches! The dealer wanted ~$75 each for the switch, but i chose instead to go with the OEM on amazon. Here are the parts i bought (per the dealer):
4th Gear Switch (28600-RAY-013 according to dealer)
The installation was VERY easy. Lift the car, remove driver side front tire. Remove small plastic part blocking the switches. Honestly, the hardest part was getting the 3rd gear switch out due to the bracket blocking it. Removing one 10mm bolt and prying it down did the trick. I didn't even do a transmission flush, just the switches. I could tell an instant difference. No more shudder/hesitation going from 3rd to 4th gear. And best of all, it appears I didn't do any lasting damage to the transmission by not doing this until now!!
Thanks so much for posting this! I created an account just to post my thanks here. I've experienced this shudder for a few months and didn't have a clue as to what it was. I asked a dealer and they pointed towards a potential motor mount issue. Turns out, it was as simple as these two pressure switches! The dealer wanted ~$75 each for the switch, but i chose instead to go with the OEM on amazon. Here are the parts i bought (per the dealer):
The installation was VERY easy. Lift the car, remove driver side front tire. Remove small plastic part blocking the switches. Honestly, the hardest part was getting the 3rd gear switch out due to the bracket blocking it. Removing one 10mm bolt and prying it down did the trick. I didn't even do a transmission flush, just the switches. I could tell an instant difference. No more shudder/hesitation going from 3rd to 4th gear. And best of all, it appears I didn't do any lasting damage to the transmission by not doing this until now!!
For the sake of taking care of those new pressure switches, do a 3x3 trans fluid drain and refill (NOT flush) as soon as possible.
Hi. I have never replaced the trans fluid in my TL as I've been told traditionally it wasn't a good idea (right/wrong/indifferent). Is this going to be a problem at 181k mileage?
Hi. I have never replaced the trans fluid in my TL as I've been told traditionally it wasn't a good idea (right/wrong/indifferent). Is this going to be a problem at 181k mileage?
Well better late than never I suppose. Though it is true for some brands (BMW) where there are factory recommendations to never change trans fluid. However, on Honda/Acura, it is strongly encouraged. It's easier to do than an oil change.
What was the mileage when you first got the car?
Either way, order yourself 9 quarts of some Honda DW-1. Don't bother paying more for "Acura DW-1", as it's the same fluid. You can check on Amazon or sometimes there are dealerships that provide good deals over the internet. Look around.
There are various guides to actually doing a drain and refill here, as well as on youtube. If you can do the pressure switches, you can change the trans fluid easy - Otherwise, you are sitting on a ticking time bomb.
Thanks. I bought the car when it had around 60 mileage. So you would feel comfortable changing the fluid now? It's driving really nicely right now that I changed the switches
Thanks. I bought the car when it had around 60 mileage. So you would feel comfortable changing the fluid now? It's driving really nicely right now that I changed the switches
Great Scott, if you've gone 121k miles w/o a trans fluid change, yes I'd change it immediately. The factory recommended change interval is 30k miles.
Again, be sure to look at guides and tutorials. Do not have it flushed, as it can actually cause damage to the trans. Think you need one socket (17mm?), a drain plug crush washer ($6 for a pack of 5 off amazon), the trans fluid itself, and a skinny funnel or turkey baster to fill through the dipstick hole.
Last edited by TheSauceBoss; 06-25-2018 at 10:17 AM.
Just called my mechanic and he's telling me if I haven't changed the fluid in that long, changing it now could release dirt causing damage. Car is not shuddering anymore post switch replacement so I really don't know if I should change the fluid...
Just called my mechanic and he's telling me if I haven't changed the fluid in that long, changing it now could release dirt causing damage. Car is not shuddering anymore post switch replacement so I really don't know if I should change the fluid...
As stated above, flushing the transmission can cause damage to it, as the machine used could push bits of dirt/metal into hydraulic lines where it's not supposed to be. Simply draining and filling should not cause this to happen. HOWEVER, I'm not a mechanic, and I know that we have some very knowledgeable mods here that can hopefully chime in with their two cents and suggestions of what to do.
As stated above, flushing the transmission can cause damage to it, as the machine used could push bits of dirt/metal into hydraulic lines where it's not supposed to be. Simply draining and filling should not cause this to happen. HOWEVER, I'm not a mechanic, and I know that we have some very knowledgeable mods here that can hopefully chime in with their two cents and suggestions of what to do.
If the trans fluid hasn’t really been changed I would be extremely hesitant about changing it all with a 3x3 drain. I did that on my trans with approx 150,000 miles on my 2005 TL and by the next week the trans went. This was this past Dec and I did the replacement with a 2006 accord trans, for which I have a question below regarding pressure switches. Literally the dirty fluid could be holding the trans together. Especially the torque converter. Putting all new fluid in a 3x3 could now clean all those parts and dislodge particals that “could” cause damage. I would sooner do a single drain and fill and drive for a while and then do another drain and fill slowly over time. Knowing what I know now I regret doing the 3x3. Car was running fine before that.
Now as as far as my question, I am
contemplating changing the pressure switches on my accord trans in my TL. With the swap the pressure switches are the accords. The down shift into 4th and sometimes the upshift from 3rd to 4th is harsh so thinking that maybe the pressure switches could be in need of a change, especially sitting in a junkyard. But, making sure they should be the accords pressure switches for the replacement. If anyone has done the accord trans swap please chime in.
If the trans fluid hasn’t really been changed I would be extremely hesitant about changing it all with a 3x3 drain. I did that on my trans with approx 150,000 miles on my 2005 TL and by the next week the trans went. This was this past Dec and I did the replacement with a 2006 accord trans, for which I have a question below regarding pressure switches. Literally the dirty fluid could be holding the trans together. Especially the torque converter. Putting all new fluid in a 3x3 could now clean all those parts and dislodge particals that “could” cause damage. I would sooner do a single drain and fill and drive for a while and then do another drain and fill slowly over time. Knowing what I know now I regret doing the 3x3. Car was running fine before that.
Huh, I suppose that makes sense. It will be interesting to see how long jasonm01 has his transmission last with just the pressure switch change. Keep us updated!
So, I just completed this today and now have a blinking green "D" light when I put the car in drive. Dangit, what did I use the wrong parts or something?
There are tons of threads, regarding new and revised part numbers, so it got to be tad confusing. I used the following parts for replacement:
Third gear pressure switch: 28610-RKE-004
Fourth gear pressure switch: 28600-RKE-004
Here is the old third gear pressure switch (on left) with the new third gear pressure switch (on right):
Here is the old fourth gear pressure switch (on left) with the new fourth gear pressure switch (on right):
Does anyone have any advice on this? I only drove the car around the block and came right back. I am not going anywhere with it until I know what's going on. Any help would be appreciated.
Just FYI - 2 weeks ago I completed a 3x3 transmission flud drain and refill with genuine Honda DW-1 ATF and replaced the transmission filter. No issues have come about until now.
I just took everything apart again and went through my steps. Me, being the stupid idiot I am, forgot to re-clip the top connector on the third gear pressure switch. Problem solved!
I decided to add a few pictures to this thread as well. Here is an overview showing the placement of both shroudings that need to be pulled back.
Lastly, don't forget to re-clip this upper wiring harness on the third gear pressure switch like I did. What a pain! There isn't actually a need to do so from my experience. I was able to access everything by removing one clip and one 10mm bolt alone.
Just FYI - 2 weeks ago I completed a 3x3 transmission flud drain and refill with genuine Honda DW-1 ATF and replaced the transmission filter. No issues have come about until now.
Thanks for the detail write up. I also need to do this on my '06 TL.
What are the first differences you've noticed after the replacing the switches?
Does it shift smoother, or faster?
I noticed a SLIGHT difference after I replaced the DW-1 fluid and filter, but not much. As soon as I replaced the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches, my shifts occurred much quicker and much smoother. I was a tad skeptical, but it really is a night/day difference. I noticed the biggest difference when downshifting from 4th to 3rd gear. There is no longer a shudder. I wish I would have done this sooner. I bought the car with 109,000 and now have 138,000 after 3.5 years.
I noticed a SLIGHT difference after I replaced the DW-1 fluid and filter, but not much. As soon as I replaced the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches, my shifts occurred much quicker and much smoother. I was a tad skeptical, but it really is a night/day difference. I noticed the biggest difference when downshifting from 4th to 3rd gear. There is no longer a shudder. I wish I would have done this sooner. I bought the car with 109,000 and now have 138,000 after 3.5 years.
My '06 is currently at 135K miles. Did you have slow / inconsistent shifts when shifting manually?
Reason I ask is that when I'm in manual mode my shifts are fairly quick and hardly any shudder except for when downshift from 3rd to 2nd.
While in full automatic mode, my tranny would shift slow, yet smoothly. It would also upshift way too early sometimes and I would need to stomp on the accelerator to downshift.
My tranny seems to be fine and would rather wait before replacing the switches.
It’s up to you with what you want to do. However, the 2004- 2006 transmissions can be fragile. If I were you, and the pressure switches have not been replaced, I would replace them immediately. It’s preventative maintenance more than anything and It can’t hurt.
Sorry to bump an old thread but, yeah I ended up opting for the SINS switches from amazon, after 2 months, the 3rd gear switch (28610-RKE-004) still works fine and shifts are smooth through 2nd and 3rd (I had a slight shudder shifting from 2nd to 3rd on light acceleration), however, the 4th failed and I started getting the blinking D light.
It set off code P0873 -- which corresponds to 4th gear switch "open" or "stuck off" the code reader picked "stuck off"
I tried cleaning it, it still looked fine. Transmission fluid checked and everything checks out, right under the full line on the dip stick where I left it.
I even stuck a skinny allen in the switch (male end) to see if maybe some metal particles got in there, and perhaps the spring isn't actuating the switch -- that was fine as well, clean on the inside, only pink fluid came out, the switch clicked on and off like it was supposed to.
I even went as far as to check continuity when it is switched on and off (done by the allen key stuck in the side getting screwed into the transmission, you'll hear a click when you've pressed the switch) -- and even that was fine. Maybe I just got a faulty switch that failed after 2 months?
I bought an original Honda pressure switch for replacement and it solved my problem of the blinking D light. Just my two cents. Still blows my mind how that switch failed after 2 months.
Sorry to bump an old thread but, yeah I ended up opting for the SINS switches from amazon, after 2 months, the 3rd gear switch (28610-RKE-004) still works fine and shifts are smooth through 2nd and 3rd (I had a slight shudder shifting from 2nd to 3rd on light acceleration), however, the 4th failed and I started getting the blinking D light.
It set off code P0873 -- which corresponds to 4th gear switch "open" or "stuck off" the code reader picked "stuck off"
I tried cleaning it, it still looked fine. Transmission fluid checked and everything checks out, right under the full line on the dip stick where I left it.
I even stuck a skinny allen in the switch (male end) to see if maybe some metal particles got in there, and perhaps the spring isn't actuating the switch -- that was fine as well, clean on the inside, only pink fluid came out, the switch clicked on and off like it was supposed to.
I even went as far as to check continuity when it is switched on and off (done by the allen key stuck in the side getting screwed into the transmission, you'll hear a click when you've pressed the switch) -- and even that was fine. Maybe I just got a faulty switch that failed after 2 months?
I bought an original Honda pressure switch for replacement and it solved my problem of the blinking D light. Just my two cents. Still blows my mind how that switch failed after 2 months.
What is part # for the OEM 4th gear switch? There seems to be few non-OEM pressure switches on Amazon and I'd rather go with OEM as in your case.
05-03-2017, 07:59 AM
