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A-110(b): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2007-2008)

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A-110(b): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2007-2008)

 
Old 03-08-2013, 07:38 AM
  #121  
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how many times can we repeat the same thing?
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:44 AM
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i have no clue why i have been putting this off still... they are sitting in my garage waiting to be done
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by SharksBreath View Post
how many times can we repeat the same thing?
Bunch of goldfish in here.....

Look food....sunken treasure
Look food....sunken treasure
Look food....sunken treasure

All day long.
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:29 PM
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I read the entire thread and it didn't seem clear since another poster said the opposite. I'm not a n00b and just wanted clarification. Get off your high horses.
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jesseray View Post
I read the entire thread and it didn't seem clear since another poster said the opposite. I'm not a n00b and just wanted clarification. Get off your high horses.
Can someone answer me this....Does it matter if it is two 3rd gear switches or two 4th gear switches?

You need:

2 x 28600-RKE-004
1 x 28610-RKE-004
3 x 90471-PW7-A0

For those that have not done this the connectors for the switches are color coded. It is very difficult to make a mistake.



But what the hell do I know? I just hope we don't waste the next 2 pages arguing something that doesn't seem to matter.

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Old 03-10-2013, 01:04 AM
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I just did the switches on a Type S using the part#'s posted by RAVI and they color code and everything matched spot on....

People need to STFU and just following simple damn instructions !!!
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:44 AM
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I have my answer now. Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Project 04TL View Post
according to the book, for a 07 base you need the following:

(2) 28600-RKE-004
(1) 28610-RKE-004
(3) 90471-PW7-A00

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
apparently you didnt read the last post on page 3 .. there is no high horse, the horse has been beat to death by lazy people like yourself who want everything spoon fed to you.
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:44 PM
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That post is after my question so I obviously read it. And I'm not lazy, I hate asking on forums for this very reason. I read before ever asking. Now can we leave it be.
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:54 PM
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we need a mod in here to clean the thread before someone orders the wrong parts and blames it on the thread/Ravi....
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:27 PM
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what up people (im a noob so bare with me) I really wanna do this pressure switch change along with the atf and oil change and spark plugs.. i dont have tools and im not mechanically inclined either way... I usually do the services at my dealer but they "cant" use aftermarket atf and they told me the pressure switch change is not necessary ... I live in Inglewood California by LAX airport anybody knows shops or mechanics with experience in the pressure switches around this area? any help or info is greatly appreciated
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:54 PM
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Glad I came across this thread!

We just bought a 2008 Base TL with 64k miles on it. Trans shifts great other than one downshift that just felt a little too firm for me. I've also owned a 2004 Base TL before and it also gave me some too firm downshifts sometimes before selling it.

I plan to replace the trans fluid (which still looks and smells great via the dip stick) and replace these sensors and will report back with how it goes.
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:12 PM
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Going to be doing this soon. Probably at my next oil change. Hopefully I will notice some sort of improvement. Although, I haven't noticed any issues with the shifting thus far, the car has almost 120k on it. I've had it since 14k and I've never changed the switches, just the ATF. So it may be about time to get them done anyway.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:30 PM
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I am planning on changing these switches this weekend and doing a 3x3. My thoughts are to replace the switch behind the wheel while the car is on jack stands draining. Then do the other two while it is down. Then do the first refill before test driving.

Is there any though on doing the 3x3 first before the switches, or the switches and then the 3x3? Does anyone see any problems with my plan of attack?
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by woowoo View Post
I am planning on changing these switches this weekend and doing a 3x3. My thoughts are to replace the switch behind the wheel while the car is on jack stands draining. Then do the other two while it is down. Then do the first refill before test driving.

Is there any though on doing the 3x3 first before the switches, or the switches and then the 3x3? Does anyone see any problems with my plan of attack?
Nope....that plan works well. That's what I did the first time.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RaviNJCLs View Post
Nope....that plan works well. That's what I did the first time.
Wow, that was fast. Thank you. And thank you for the great DIY write up!
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by woowoo View Post
Wow, that was fast. Thank you. And thank you for the great DIY write up!
No problem. PM me if you have any questions.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:15 PM
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Thanks again for the write up and assistance Ravi.

I changed these switches today and did my 3x3. Everything is working great and there is a noticeable difference in shifting. The car now seems more eager to downshift when I floor it and will run to higher rpm before upshifting.

Some things I learned along the way:

All of the connectors including the switches are squeeze and pull except one. The one that isn't, is in the third picture where it points to the connector holding the wire harness in place and says "Detach". For this one you need to use a flat head screw driver to pry the tab on the right side, out toward the rear of the car. I stuck the screwdriver in between the plastic and metal, twisted till the tab freed, and then pulled the connector straight back.

For some of the squeeze connectors I had a hard time getting enough force on the depress levers with my hand in such an awkward position. You can carefully use a pair of pliers to depress the connector tab and gently pull it back off. Do not squeeze too hard. Do not use pliers to reconnect any of the connectors.

I had to remove the bracket for the switch under the air intake. Remember these are nuts so be careful when taking them off that you don't drop them. It is also a very tight space for the nut on the right. You cannot get to it straight on with an extender. I recommend either a 10mm box wrench or a small 1/4" socket wrench. I used the socket wrench.

For the switch under the air intake I had a hard time snaking the socket and the extender down onto the switch. Instead I disconnected the socket and put it on the switch first. Then I carefully clicked the extender and ratchet onto it. This gave me the extra half inch I needed by having the socket already snugged up against the switch. I did the same thing when replacing the sensor. If you have to do this be very careful not to hurt the new sensor why you are trying to snap the extender and ratchet in place.

For the final one toward the firewall I was able to do it without disconnecting the hose. I used my 1/2 inch socket wrench and the deep 7/8 socket with no extender. I carefully slid the socket and wrench between the two hoses and then pulled it forward onto the switch. Once it broke lose I squeezed my hand down in there to finish unscrewing it by hand.

For both of the top switches, I found the best luck lowering them in with the threads pointing up with my left and and reaching my right hand down the other side to catch them. This helped to keep the washers in place. I used my right hand as a support and back stop and my left hand to thread the switches in.

Last note is for anyone who plans on doing a 1x3 and change these switches at the same time. I recommend pulling the air filter box before you pull the fuse box and try to access the ATF fill bolt. Doing so enables you to lay the fuse box over in the space where the air filter usually would be. You can easily get your hands on the drain bolt and have plenty of room to break it lose. You can even use a smaller extender if you need to because it puts you so much closer to the bolt.

Thanks again to Ravi, JDM RICe, and everyone else who gave pointers on making this a very approachable DIY.

Last edited by woowoo; 03-29-2013 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:23 AM
  #139  
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Just like to say Thanks to the OP for the awesome write up. I tackled my pressure switch change today on my 07' Type S. It took me a little less than 2 hours. I did notice my shifting from 3rd to 4th gear now shifts quicker. GOOD WRITE UP
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:20 PM
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Completed this over the weekend, a few notes that might help out others trying this. I was able to get access to the switch under the intake and the one through the wheel easily, but I couldn't get the connector off of the switch by hand. I couldn't tell if i had pressed the clip enough to pull it off without damaging it. So I ended up using a pair of pliers to get the one from behind the wheel off. For the one under the intake I placed a flat head screwdriver in between the switch and connector. Then slowly twisted the screwdriver to push the connector off as I pressed on the clip, if I felt some resistance on the screwdriver I would press harder on the clip until it slid off. At first I thought I would have to remove the front strut bar and some of the hoses to reach the one behind the engine, but it's accessible by snaking your arm through there. The easiest way for me to take off the switches was to place the socket over the switch by hand then connect the extensions and wrench. Thanks again to Ravi for the DIY.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:38 AM
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I need to do this ASAP! My car has a "glitchy" shift in most gears in stop and go traffic... its annoying as hell. I will be putting on a Comptech S/C shortly so I am hoping the switches and some redline Racing ATF will get rid of this issue!!!
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:46 PM
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I'm just going through a service manual now, and it looks like there are 3 pressure switches: 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear, two of them the same. See attached
Attached Thumbnails A-110(b): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2007-2008)-pressure-switches.jpg   A-110(b): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2007-2008)-pressure-switches-07-tl.jpg  

Last edited by honda; 08-22-2013 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:04 PM
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Hey guys.. I have a 07 TLS that I bought 7 months ago with 67k miles.. It now has 75k miles and I just got service engine due A13 code which i read its oil and tranny flush.. What's this 1x3 and 3x3 mean? I'm sorry I'm new to this site... What fluid is recommended? I also noticed most of my gears jerk when shifting... Very noticeable jerks on every gear even when driving normal but more noticeable when full throttle... I'm buying the sensors stated in the 1st post this weekend... Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:20 PM
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^^^ the most common reply will be to read, since the info is shared a million times....

but since am in a good mood, I will explain, again, LOL

The Automatic transmission does not drain out the full fluid when we do a drain, it only drains out, 3 quarts....for a flush, a 3x3 is recommended which means, you drain the 3 quarts and fill it will 3 quarts and you do this 3 times....

if you see a 1x3, it means you drain 3 quarts and fill 3 quarts and do it once....4x3 means, you do the drain and refill 4 times

a flush is done at the dealer where they suck out the old fluid and fill it with new one....I recommend AGAINST it since all the metal shavings and debris is stuck in the transmission....

Here is the fluid % chart for drain and refills:
1=39.5%
2=63.4%
3=77.8%
4=86.6%
5=91.9%
6=95.1%
7=97.0%
8=98.2%
9=98.9%
10=99+%

So it takes almost 10x3 to get all new fluid in there....

Now that you know drain and refill and how many times to do it...lets move onto the jerkiness of the transmission....

The switches should help....the pressure switches are pneumatic switches which close/open at a certain psi....with age, they dont open/close at the set psi....I would also look into Redline transmission fluid....some are running Type F, some are running D4 and some are running a mix....if you dont know what you want to run, I would just stick to OEM Honda DW1 fluid....

I run all Type F and instead of doing a 3x3 every 60K miles, I do 1x3 every 15K miles....I have done a 6x3 so far and I love how my transmission shifts....
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by hialeahzbg View Post
Hey guys.. I have a 07 TLS that I bought 7 months ago with 67k miles.. It now has 75k miles and I just got service engine due A13 code which i read its oil and tranny flush.. What's this 1x3 and 3x3 mean? I'm sorry I'm new to this site... What fluid is recommended? I also noticed most of my gears jerk when shifting... Very noticeable jerks on every gear even when driving normal but more noticeable when full throttle... I'm buying the sensors stated in the 1st post this weekend... Thanks in advance!
The transmission holds a bit over 7qts of atf. When draining the transmission only about 3qts come out due to some being in the torqe converter and such. So a 1x3 means you drained 3qts and refilled it with 3qts(this is what the dealer will do if you ask them to do a trans service-cost average $110 as im told). To help get more of the fluid out you can do a 3x3 which is the same as a 1x3 but you drive your car a short distance and drain it again for a total of 3 times. so 3 drains at 3 qts each. This will give you a higher content of new trans fluid in the tranny. There are a million threads on this as well as % of new trans fluid after each 1x3, types of atf to use besides oem, and what not. OEM fluid is ATF Z1 or DW1(cant remember off the top of my head). I would recommend using oem fluid if your not going for performance. If you are ands want to get technical get your bifocals on and search for some ATF fluid threads. Cant go wrong with the OEM fluid tho. Now as far as your jerking, you prob have a broken engine mount of two, maybe a trans mount too. Welcome to the world of Acura's!

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Old 08-30-2013, 10:25 PM
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Great info! So you recommend me staying with oem fluid?
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:31 PM
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Perfect now I really understand this... I will definitely inspect my mounts and see if they need to be replaced.. I bought my car with 2 year extended warranty so is the pressure switch and mounts covered under it? I'm sure the tranny flush is out of pocket which is fine with me.. I had a 1999 civic Si before this and many other modded Hondas but this seems like a totally different car...
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:32 PM
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^^^

do some reading....see whats right for you LOL...

the reason I dont want to "recommend" anything is because if you transmission goes kaput...you gonna start a thread saying "swoosh fucked my transmission" LOL
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:33 PM
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also this is for an Automatic trans....if you have a MT, you should not be here
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by hialeahzbg View Post
Perfect now I really understand this... I will definitely inspect my mounts and see if they need to be replaced.. I bought my car with 2 year extended warranty so is the pressure switch and mounts covered under it? I'm sure the tranny flush is out of pocket which is fine with me.. I had a 1999 civic Si before this and many other modded Hondas but this seems like a totally different car...
The warranty you have will cover certain things, but is limited to a certain point. You should have a list of what is covered and what is not when you bought the warranty. So you will have to find that out yourself. If you take your car to a dealership and tell them your trans is acting funny and you need pressure switches they will laugh at you and ask what the hell you want to change them for. They did it to me and would not change them unless a dtc is set(which it will not). Already tried it. haha
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:25 PM
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Lol alright thanks! I will definitely order the switches and fluid... I need to get this done..
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:26 PM
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Yea I have auto unfortunately since my wifey occasionally drives my car... If the tranny goes I will convert it to 6spd since I hear they are way faster..
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:42 AM
  #153  
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Great thread. Will be doing this soon I hope. Do any of my Canuck brethren know of a Canadian online shop that sells Acura parts? Unfortunately, US companies can't ship internationally so I can't take advantage of the good prices at oemacuraparts.com and others like them. I really don't want to order from my local dealer if I can help it.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:34 PM
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This is a little bit of a read but i want to be thorough and get the right info from the right people on here...

So I read this thread over and over and over... I lurk on here alot and only post if needed on any forum and right now is a need. I followed the instructions and I'am on my last 1x3 using 1 quart redline d4 and 2 quartredline racing atf so i decided to finally switch out all 3 sensors since i bought them months ago preparing for this.

Trans was shifting fine but at 99k miles I figured it was time for this preventive maintenance. Install went normal, after i was done i noticed it was smoother but i didn't do the final 1x3 yet since i wanted to test the sensors. Good thing since about half a mile down the road my engine light came on and no 5th gear. Came back ran a scanner and i got code p0848, Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch B Circuit High. It was a long day so i let the car sit and decided next day to work on it.

Did some searching and came across the code is related specifically to one of the 3rd gear pressure switches, sensor b i assum since the scanner pulled "switch b"... so i decided to go back in, remove and inspect them. Saw no visual issues so i decided to switch them to see if the problem was still there. Cleaned them up, and while removing the sensor under the intake it snapped and the thread remained in the trans. I was able to get it out cleanly and luckily I had kept my original ones so i re-used one and cleaned it up and re-installed. Had no choice since the dealer has to order these apparently. Cleared the code. Drove half a mile and again same code and still no 5th gear.... i have 5th gear and it shifts smoothly for that start up until the half mile point but i guess once the sensor cycles with the computer, it shuts off and i lose 5th gear.

Anyone have that problem or know another solution? Is my research wrong and my problem really in my 4th gear sensor behind the driver side tire?
I'm pretty auto savvy but can't get my head around this one and i cant seem to find others with this issue. I see peolpe with 3rd or 4th gear issues but not 5th.
Thanks for any help guys
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:34 AM
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Will this DIY fix my downshifting problem that occurs around 40mph when I take my foot off the gas, and I feel my entire car shake as it downshifts??




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Old 09-17-2013, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TAZ1811 View Post
Will this DIY fix my downshifting problem that occurs around 40mph when I take my foot off the gas, and I feel my entire car shake as it downshifts??




It will not prevent the downshifting. It is to help in braking. It should not be shaking though. This will make the shifting smoother.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RaviNJCLs View Post
It will not prevent the downshifting. It is to help in braking. It should not be shaking though. This will make the shifting smoother.
What gets smoother?
Downshifts? Upshifts? Both?

Currently when my car downshifts from 3rd to 2nd, I feel a jolt , (almost like I got rear-ended by another car) maybe "shake" was the wrong verb to use.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:10 AM
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anyone yet maybe have an idea with my issue above? I don't want to jump thread to thread asking the same question, plus this one looks the most informative. I'm considering doing the job all over again with new sensors. It's really bugging me I cant find this problem anywhere else and don't want to be forced going to the dealer if I don't have to.
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mikesku View Post
anyone yet maybe have an idea with my issue above? I don't want to jump thread to thread asking the same question, plus this one looks the most informative. I'm considering doing the job all over again with new sensors. It's really bugging me I cant find this problem anywhere else and don't want to be forced going to the dealer if I don't have to.
Maybe you put the switches in the incorrect locations?

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Select Vehicle | New TSBs | Technician's ReferenceComponent Search: Conversion Calculator 2008 Acura TL V6-3.2L

Vehicle Level A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) Testing and Inspection P Code Charts P0848 Automatic Transmission Automatic Transmission DTC P0848: Open in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck OFF

NOTE:
  • Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot, and review General Troubleshooting Information.
  • This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  4. Drive the vehicle in the 3rd gear in M, and verify that the SHIFT CONTROL indicates 3rd in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
  5. Check the 3rd PRESSURE SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is the 3rd PRESSURE SWITCH ON?

YES - Go to step 6.

NO - Go to step 8.

  1. Test-drive the vehicle in 3rd gear in M for at least 2 seconds.
  2. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0848 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS.
Does the screen indicate FAILED?

YES - Go to step 8.

NO - If the screen indicates PASSED, intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and the PCM. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 6.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
  2. Disconnect the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector.
  3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
  4. Measure the voltage between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector terminal and body ground.


Is there about 5 V?

YES - Replace the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch, then go to step 13.

NO - Go to step 12.

  1. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal C9 and body ground.


Is there about 5 V?

YES - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C9 and the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch, then go to step 13.

NO - Go to step 20.

  1. Reconnect all connectors.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
  3. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  4. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  5. Drive the vehicle in 3rd gear in M for at least 2 seconds, then upshift to 4th gear, and drive in 4th gear for at least 2 seconds.
  6. Check for DTCs with the HDS.
Is DTC P0848 indicated?

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and the PCM, then go to step 1.

NO - Go to step 19.

  1. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0848 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS.
Does the screen indicate PASSED?

YES - Troubleshooting is complete. If any other DTCs were indicated in step 18, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.

NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and the PCM, then go to step 1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 16.

  1. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM.
  2. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  3. Drive the vehicle in 3rd gear in M for at least 2 seconds, then upshift to 4th gear, and drive in 4th gear for at least 2 seconds.
  4. Check for DTCs with the HDS.
Is DTC P0848 indicated?

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, then go to step 21. If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1.

NO - Go to step 24.

  1. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0848 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS.
Does the screen indicate PASSED?

YES - If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM. If any other DTCs were indicated in step 23, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.

NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, then go to step 21. If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 21.



Log Out | HelpSEWELL INFINITI OF FORTWORTH

Select Vehicle | New TSBs | Technician's ReferenceComponent Search: Conversion Calculator 2008 Acura TL V6-3.2L

Vehicle Level A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) Testing and Inspection P Code Charts P0848 Advanced Diagnostics Advanced Diagnostics DTC P0848: Open in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck OFF


General Description
The 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch is installed in the hydraulic pressure circuit to the 3rd clutch. When hydraulic pressure is supplied to the 3rd clutch, the switch is turned ON. When hydraulic pressure is not supplied to the 3rd clutch, the switch is turned OFF. The signal from the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch is input to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM detects the hydraulic pressure supply conditions at the gear change to 3rd gear (2nd -> 3rd, 4th -> 3rd) to reduce the shock that occurs at the gear change. If the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch is OFF while the rotation speed ratio of the input/output pulses is that of 3rd gear, the PCM detects a malfunction in the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and stores a DTC.


Monitor Execution, Sequence, Duration, DTC Type, OBD Status


Enable Conditions

Malfunction Threshold
The input signal from the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch to the PCM is high when driving in 3rd gear.

Driving Pattern
Start the engine, and drive the vehicle in the D position and 3rd gear for at least 2 seconds .

  • Drive the vehicle in this manner only if the traffic regulations and ambient conditions allow.
Diagnosis Details

Conditions for illuminating the MIL
When a malfunction is detected, the MIL comes on and the DTC and the freeze frame data are stored in the PCM memory.

Conditions for clearing the MIL
The MIL will be cleared if the malfunction does not recur during three consecutive trips in which the diagnostic runs.

The MIL, the DTC, and the freeze frame data can be cleared by using the scan tool Clear command or by disconnecting the battery.






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Slpr04UA6 (09-26-2013)
Old 09-26-2013, 07:37 AM
  #160  
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Hi guys I'm new here replacing the switches are really easy one is underneath the battery and one right behind the driver side mud flap there great to do for preventive maintenance.
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