A-107: DIY-Seafoam on 3rd gen TL ('06 5AT specifically)
09-07-2009, 07:27 PM
#321
Ak Ting Up
First Time Seafoam
Picked up some while buying parts for the Mercedes oil change ($60.00 in parts).
I seafoamed per the instructions, gas tank and vacuum intake. Drove for 40 mins. No smoke. I have 143,000 miles on her (04). I thought I would see some smoke, but I have never missed an oil change, and I change my air filter regularly (average once ever 60 days).
I just changed the oil so I will do the oil seafoam on the next oil change.
Maybe I'll see some smoke tomorrow morning.
I seafoamed per the instructions, gas tank and vacuum intake. Drove for 40 mins. No smoke. I have 143,000 miles on her (04). I thought I would see some smoke, but I have never missed an oil change, and I change my air filter regularly (average once ever 60 days).
I just changed the oil so I will do the oil seafoam on the next oil change.
Maybe I'll see some smoke tomorrow morning.
09-07-2009, 09:40 PM
#322
which instructions did you follow-
added how much to intake manifold-1 can?
thats where smoke comes from- not gas tank or oil methods
Heat in the exhaust and engine combine with the oils in seafoam to make smoke!!
Any number of reasons you do or dont see it
My buddy wasnt seeing smoke from his truck as we added to intake, had him rev it slightly- smoke billowed from exhaust. On the after drive it smoked a few miles really thick before hopping on freeway to do the blow out drive
added how much to intake manifold-1 can?
thats where smoke comes from- not gas tank or oil methods
Heat in the exhaust and engine combine with the oils in seafoam to make smoke!!
Any number of reasons you do or dont see it
My buddy wasnt seeing smoke from his truck as we added to intake, had him rev it slightly- smoke billowed from exhaust. On the after drive it smoked a few miles really thick before hopping on freeway to do the blow out drive
09-07-2009, 09:42 PM
#323
+why are you replacing the engine air filter every 60 days?
If its that bad of air in your town, buy a K&N air filter- you can wash/clean and reoil it for 1 million miles of use
refill kit $10 and does it 5 times
dont forget to clean the TB plate- with those miles its going to be gunked from PCV
If its that bad of air in your town, buy a K&N air filter- you can wash/clean and reoil it for 1 million miles of use
refill kit $10 and does it 5 times
dont forget to clean the TB plate- with those miles its going to be gunked from PCV
09-07-2009, 09:43 PM
#324
you may want to inspect the cabin filter, those get dirty fast and you breathe thru them
09-08-2009, 01:03 AM
#326
Ok I have come to the conclusion that if you vacumm the seafoam too quick you will hydrolock your engine and bend your rod. I had a bent road 6 or so months ago and was confused what or why it happened. I just remembered and realized I seafoamed the car 5 days before! So everyone do it slowly! I did it pretty slow, but not as slow as I should.
09-08-2009, 10:49 AM
#328
Ak Ting Up
+why are you replacing the engine air filter every 60 days?
If its that bad of air in your town, buy a K&N air filter- you can wash/clean and reoil it for 1 million miles of use
refill kit $10 and does it 5 times
dont forget to clean the TB plate- with those miles its going to be gunked from PCV
If its that bad of air in your town, buy a K&N air filter- you can wash/clean and reoil it for 1 million miles of use
refill kit $10 and does it 5 times
dont forget to clean the TB plate- with those miles its going to be gunked from PCV
1. I followed the instructions YOU said to follow.
2. I purchased the shop manual for my car, the same day the car was purchased, back in 04, and have done all the prescribed maintenance (cabin filter, etc) on schedule.
3. The air filter is $12.00 (advance auto parts). I can afford to change it every 60 or so days.
Ive owned 4 Honda's and two Acura's over the years. All have made it past 250K miles.
4. I did the intake procedure first. Still no smoke this morning. No big deal.
Maybe all my gunk gets blowed out during my trips to Orlando. The last trip was a turn and burn (950 miles total), about a month ago.
One more thing, I average 26mpg combined city/hwy, or using a calculator, 25.55MPG over 13 gallons used, 340 miles from full tank till low fuel light comes on. Hasn't changed since the car was new.
Last edited by AcuraVic; 09-08-2009 at 10:54 AM. Reason: more info
09-08-2009, 11:18 AM
#329
seafoam does indeed burn so it doesnt hydrolock your engine or cause blown rods thru the block
It can be used as an engine starting fluid! so I dont think that arguement stands~
While its true that if sucking or pouring in too fast, you can get more than 50% dilution of fuel to foam and then the engine stalls- thats actually ok to do as part of the procedure..a few times if you want, it doesnt hurt anything
Water doesnt compress or burn so thats what hydrolock is about
you dont always see any smoke in the mirror but its there as you do the burnoff drive- that drive is important to the overall results..any use of a good cleaner is better than none
for the price of 4-5 $12 air filters you can have a K&N, get way better airflow and better filtering of dust. Thats good for the engine
Plus the landfill waste of those 5 filters per year is gone
It can be used as an engine starting fluid! so I dont think that arguement stands~
While its true that if sucking or pouring in too fast, you can get more than 50% dilution of fuel to foam and then the engine stalls- thats actually ok to do as part of the procedure..a few times if you want, it doesnt hurt anything
Water doesnt compress or burn so thats what hydrolock is about
you dont always see any smoke in the mirror but its there as you do the burnoff drive- that drive is important to the overall results..any use of a good cleaner is better than none
for the price of 4-5 $12 air filters you can have a K&N, get way better airflow and better filtering of dust. Thats good for the engine
Plus the landfill waste of those 5 filters per year is gone
09-08-2009, 11:24 AM
#330
I suggest adding 1 can to 1/2 tank of gas, then do the warmup and seafoam of intake manifold vac port. That way cleaner is working on the injectors and valves to get them clean or soften and liquify crud before the big dose hits everthing inside
Liquify is seafoams description of what happens
Liquify is seafoams description of what happens
09-08-2009, 12:53 PM
#331
Ak Ting Up
I suggest adding 1 can to 1/2 tank of gas, then do the warmup and seafoam of intake manifold vac port. That way cleaner is working on the injectors and valves to get them clean or soften and liquify crud before the big dose hits everthing inside
Liquify is seafoams description of what happens
Liquify is seafoams description of what happens
Not knocking the seafoam stuff, just haven't seen the improvement yet. As I said before, no big deal.
09-08-2009, 02:06 PM
#332
I believe hydrolock can occur with any fluid: water, gas, coolant, oil, diesel, even seafoam. Anything that is not compressible. Just because it burns as a vapor does not mean it will automatically burn in the combustion chamber if it is in liquid form. I seafoam'd my car the other week, i believe its good for it, but I think all the white smoke people see is just unburnt seafoam accumulating in the exhaust and then boiling out when it is heated up under WOT. In general, white smoke == unburnt fuel, black smoke == burning oil.
So yeah, be careful about introducing too much seafoam too fast to the intake, but at a nice slow pace it should work well.
09-22-2009, 07:44 PM
#333
Respect Freedom
!, VSA, & check engine graphic lights immediately upon Seafoam application. Used the sip & slurp method after proper warm up: 1 can over about 10 minutes, about 1/3 can added to the oil as it's due to be changed, 2/3 can to 1/2+ tank of gas, and sprayed the butterfly with Deep Creep.
I've done the Seafoam procedure to my 1G TL with good success, and this is the first time with the 05 MT. Yes, it smoked as anticipated, but on the post application drive the rev limiter cut in at 3,000 RPM during acceleration, regardless of gear or neutral. Downshifts are smooth even when well above 3,000, albeit with zero throttle response until the revs decline to below 3,000. Irregular idle or stalls, and it wants to diesel at shut off.
Turning the ignition totally off, or letting it sit for 20 minutes hasn't reset or otherwise remedied the problem. Will pulling the fuse for the computer (is it the clock fuse?) reset or flash the system? Any ideas or similar experiences?
I've done the Seafoam procedure to my 1G TL with good success, and this is the first time with the 05 MT. Yes, it smoked as anticipated, but on the post application drive the rev limiter cut in at 3,000 RPM during acceleration, regardless of gear or neutral. Downshifts are smooth even when well above 3,000, albeit with zero throttle response until the revs decline to below 3,000. Irregular idle or stalls, and it wants to diesel at shut off.
Turning the ignition totally off, or letting it sit for 20 minutes hasn't reset or otherwise remedied the problem. Will pulling the fuse for the computer (is it the clock fuse?) reset or flash the system? Any ideas or similar experiences?
09-22-2009, 11:25 PM
#334
wow man- where did you add the seafoam to, and how much at what rate?
I have never seen everything light up at once and the system go into Limp mode~
try an ecu reset by pulling the clock fuse
brimp- seafoam is made from oils- as it moves thru the system it hits the hot cats and makes smoke
Its not unused seafoam washing out
Hydrolock will not occur in many of the products you listed
I have never seen everything light up at once and the system go into Limp mode~
try an ecu reset by pulling the clock fuse
brimp- seafoam is made from oils- as it moves thru the system it hits the hot cats and makes smoke
Its not unused seafoam washing out
Hydrolock will not occur in many of the products you listed
09-28-2009, 05:49 PM
#335
Respect Freedom
Mystery solved.
The Seafoam treatment did it’s job as evidenced by the gunk dripping out of the tail pipes and the fouled plugs. The salient points to consider:
-The !, VSA, and check engine lights translated into 2 codes: misfire on cylinder #6, and a mapping error – thanks Autozone
-Clearing the codes was ineffective, as the maladies & warning lights remained and the codes immediately reappeared.
-Disconnecting the battery did not clear the codes or the maladies.
-In the 05 TL, there is not a fuse labeled for the clock or the ECU, at least one that I was able to decypher. FYI – neither the clock or the ECU is on the radio fuse.
-The misfire was audible, and was solved when all of the plugs were changed as planned after the Seafoam application. Misfire code was cleared and did not return.
-The irregular idle, etc. was due to a cracked sensor atop the intake plenum – the mapping sensor I suspect. It is quite likely that I damaged it as I removed the hose clamp from the adjacent vacumn hose to facilitate the seafoam sip-n-slurp procedure. In this instance, the sensor had pulled apart but not totally disconnected, hence I hadn’t noticed it until I started checking connections & fittings aside from those associated with the Seafoam treatment. When the sensor was replaced to its proper position, albeit it cracked, the motor returned to its properly purring performance. The mapping error code was cleared and did not return, the ! And the VSA lights went out, and the check engine light went out after a restart.
The Seafoam treatment was step 1 of 3, #2 was the installation of Bosch IR Fusion (iridium) plugs, and #3 was the oil change to Mobil 1 Extended 5w30 (yes, 30w...the 20w will go in prior to winter temps) with a quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil additive. I purchased this car with about 60,000 miles on it, and suspect that despite frequent oil changes, this was the first time it has had its innards cleaned out. I employed the Seafoam procedures to the intake manifold, the gas tank, and the engine oil, plus sprayed Deep Creep at the throttle butterfly.
Over the next 300 miles of combined hwy/city driving, the mpg increased from the usual 27 mpg to 30 mpg. I’ve previously experienced 30 mpg hwy, but it’s been for short stints on relatively lazy stretches of interstate. Seeing 31 mpg at 200 miles on state roads with stoplights and occasional township traffic was a new experience. The motor is smooth as silk.
IMO:
- Frequent oil changes are good, but the extra effort of periodic cleansing is worthwhile.
- Use quality ingredients. Oil is like ice cream. One can subsist just fine on Good Humor brand, but the smooth richness of Haagen Daz only improves the experience. Regardless, the intervals between servings are the same – for both ice cream and oil changes. I use Mobil 1 Extended because it’s a better product than the reformulated Mobil 1, yet I still change the oil at about 3k intervals. In this analogy, the Lucas additive is the hot fudge topping, oh how my car likes it.
- Be careful when removing the vacumn line – it doesn’t take much to damage the mapping sensor atop the intake plenum.
Cheers
The Seafoam treatment did it’s job as evidenced by the gunk dripping out of the tail pipes and the fouled plugs. The salient points to consider:
-The !, VSA, and check engine lights translated into 2 codes: misfire on cylinder #6, and a mapping error – thanks Autozone
-Clearing the codes was ineffective, as the maladies & warning lights remained and the codes immediately reappeared.
-Disconnecting the battery did not clear the codes or the maladies.
-In the 05 TL, there is not a fuse labeled for the clock or the ECU, at least one that I was able to decypher. FYI – neither the clock or the ECU is on the radio fuse.
-The misfire was audible, and was solved when all of the plugs were changed as planned after the Seafoam application. Misfire code was cleared and did not return.
-The irregular idle, etc. was due to a cracked sensor atop the intake plenum – the mapping sensor I suspect. It is quite likely that I damaged it as I removed the hose clamp from the adjacent vacumn hose to facilitate the seafoam sip-n-slurp procedure. In this instance, the sensor had pulled apart but not totally disconnected, hence I hadn’t noticed it until I started checking connections & fittings aside from those associated with the Seafoam treatment. When the sensor was replaced to its proper position, albeit it cracked, the motor returned to its properly purring performance. The mapping error code was cleared and did not return, the ! And the VSA lights went out, and the check engine light went out after a restart.
The Seafoam treatment was step 1 of 3, #2 was the installation of Bosch IR Fusion (iridium) plugs, and #3 was the oil change to Mobil 1 Extended 5w30 (yes, 30w...the 20w will go in prior to winter temps) with a quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil additive. I purchased this car with about 60,000 miles on it, and suspect that despite frequent oil changes, this was the first time it has had its innards cleaned out. I employed the Seafoam procedures to the intake manifold, the gas tank, and the engine oil, plus sprayed Deep Creep at the throttle butterfly.
Over the next 300 miles of combined hwy/city driving, the mpg increased from the usual 27 mpg to 30 mpg. I’ve previously experienced 30 mpg hwy, but it’s been for short stints on relatively lazy stretches of interstate. Seeing 31 mpg at 200 miles on state roads with stoplights and occasional township traffic was a new experience. The motor is smooth as silk.
IMO:
- Frequent oil changes are good, but the extra effort of periodic cleansing is worthwhile.
- Use quality ingredients. Oil is like ice cream. One can subsist just fine on Good Humor brand, but the smooth richness of Haagen Daz only improves the experience. Regardless, the intervals between servings are the same – for both ice cream and oil changes. I use Mobil 1 Extended because it’s a better product than the reformulated Mobil 1, yet I still change the oil at about 3k intervals. In this analogy, the Lucas additive is the hot fudge topping, oh how my car likes it.
- Be careful when removing the vacumn line – it doesn’t take much to damage the mapping sensor atop the intake plenum.
Cheers
09-28-2009, 09:10 PM
#336
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hey guys what up I love the stories on seafoam and many more cleaners used in cleaning intakes and exhaust valves and combustion chambers I personally prefer the bbk air intake cleaning system and my reasoning is time the seafoam method while it works and is proven I have done it countless times and while i like it it can have adverse drawbacks and my reasoning is the electronics while this may sound comical ive seen it happen these additives can have adverse effects on o2 sensors catalytic convertors even map sensors and the way it usually happens is the requency of the cleaner seafoam while the packaging says its safe the manufacturer knows its time has passed when it was invented carburetors were the norm now we all know injection and closed loop operating systems rule so when you seafoam you can potentially shorten the life of your o2s as well as heat up your cat to dangerous levels not only while performing the method but even after the product can sit up in the intake we believe harmlessly cleaning but when we turn that key and those exhaust valves open some of this goes rite out the head and is dumped into those cats flaring them and a potential po420 usually isnt far behind and even if it isnt there are far safer and less toxic ways to accomplish this. Im no advicate of bbk or any other product I work for the St Louis police fleet services as an autotech so ive seen some dirty intakes in my time, and my reasoning is simple the bbk product uses an apparatus to inject the chemical slowly into your intake tract before the tb and cleans the entire air intake system and you can dial it in to your liking i usually take up to 45 minutes to clean mine and best of all it is non volatile its the safer way and the way general motors and Honda have recommended per alldata now im no expert at all but in my opinion ill say it works for me if you ever have access to this service give it a shot you will be satisfied
09-28-2009, 09:48 PM
#337
ray (and others with questions)
please try some form of punctuation in your sentances, it makes them much easier to understand!
What product are you talking about? bbk????
You are correct --- you are no seafoam expert~
Guess what product is mixed 50/50 with gasoline in the machine that hooks into the fuel line used by many shops?? SEAFOAM
As for O2 sensor, cat or similar damage, read the can or the website www.seafoamsales.com for the real truth- well tested and proven NOT to damage those parts. Their tech info section is great and has far more methods shown than the size of the can allows for printed instructions. There is even a 3 foot straw available to reach all the way in the intake manifold thru the TB, allowing full access to the intake runners!!
The only real problem anyone has experienced is not doing the blow out drive afterwards correctly.
If the spark plugs have ~100k miles on them they are sparking very weak, not getting hot enough to remove the liquified carbon and combustion byproduct that is getting flung around as it exits the cylinder...so it gets stuck on the plug and fouls it.
Thats why you wait a week before changing plugs-- as there will be ongoing cleaning while the foamed gas goes thru
Think of the crud as layers of an onion- each sip of seafoam peels another layer off.
Yes there are other very good product such as bg44- GM- Honda - all run about 50$ iirc for a 3 part/can treatment
Spark plugs- there are 2 approved brands: denso which cost more and last fewer miles or NGK Iridium (the IX is supposed to be more for racers and gen2 uses them)
Thats what you want- NOT bosch, I dont care that the parts guy says they FIT- it goes beyond that
Notice how fine a wire was on the stock NGK Iridiums, and the bosch had what?
Our coil on plug ignition does not like the B plugs- members have tried and said it was fine then 3 months later starts running bad, so you have to go back and buy NGKs
If you take them out now and return them, tell the store that acurazine members laughed when told what you bought.. get the correct plugs - then it will run great!
Im a gen2, our CLOCK fuse is passenger footwell fuse block or on the end of the dash, you can only see that fuseblock with passenger door open
Its not marked ecu in any way- just CLOCK, but it is the ~secret backup power~ to the ecu and when removed for a minute will force a reboot/reset of the system.
Oil: gen3 was put on a 5w20 diet to make it get ~.1mpg better for the CAFE fuel testing in the usa- that test method has now been scrapped and replaced with totally different test based on each model, not the corporate average
The engine loves 5w30 to help protect all the metal parts that impact several thousand times a minute.
Changing oil every 3000 miles is old school when oil was garbage
5000-7500 is normal, the car makers and oil makers work together on this
Your MID is set for 7500 mile oil changes in normal conditions
I hope this clears misconceptions on these items!
please try some form of punctuation in your sentances, it makes them much easier to understand!
What product are you talking about? bbk????
You are correct --- you are no seafoam expert~
Guess what product is mixed 50/50 with gasoline in the machine that hooks into the fuel line used by many shops?? SEAFOAM
As for O2 sensor, cat or similar damage, read the can or the website www.seafoamsales.com for the real truth- well tested and proven NOT to damage those parts. Their tech info section is great and has far more methods shown than the size of the can allows for printed instructions. There is even a 3 foot straw available to reach all the way in the intake manifold thru the TB, allowing full access to the intake runners!!
The only real problem anyone has experienced is not doing the blow out drive afterwards correctly.
If the spark plugs have ~100k miles on them they are sparking very weak, not getting hot enough to remove the liquified carbon and combustion byproduct that is getting flung around as it exits the cylinder...so it gets stuck on the plug and fouls it.
Thats why you wait a week before changing plugs-- as there will be ongoing cleaning while the foamed gas goes thru
Think of the crud as layers of an onion- each sip of seafoam peels another layer off.
Yes there are other very good product such as bg44- GM- Honda - all run about 50$ iirc for a 3 part/can treatment
Spark plugs- there are 2 approved brands: denso which cost more and last fewer miles or NGK Iridium (the IX is supposed to be more for racers and gen2 uses them)
Thats what you want- NOT bosch, I dont care that the parts guy says they FIT- it goes beyond that
Notice how fine a wire was on the stock NGK Iridiums, and the bosch had what?
Our coil on plug ignition does not like the B plugs- members have tried and said it was fine then 3 months later starts running bad, so you have to go back and buy NGKs
If you take them out now and return them, tell the store that acurazine members laughed when told what you bought.. get the correct plugs - then it will run great!
Im a gen2, our CLOCK fuse is passenger footwell fuse block or on the end of the dash, you can only see that fuseblock with passenger door open
Its not marked ecu in any way- just CLOCK, but it is the ~secret backup power~ to the ecu and when removed for a minute will force a reboot/reset of the system.
Oil: gen3 was put on a 5w20 diet to make it get ~.1mpg better for the CAFE fuel testing in the usa- that test method has now been scrapped and replaced with totally different test based on each model, not the corporate average
The engine loves 5w30 to help protect all the metal parts that impact several thousand times a minute.
Changing oil every 3000 miles is old school when oil was garbage
5000-7500 is normal, the car makers and oil makers work together on this
Your MID is set for 7500 mile oil changes in normal conditions
I hope this clears misconceptions on these items!
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-28-2009 at 09:52 PM.
09-29-2009, 10:08 AM
#339
Even after the polite comment, you STILL couldn't use punctuation?!?!? 
I lost an 02 sensor in my 180k+ mile 89 CRX about a week after Seafoming. So ever since I've been weary of using it.
I followed the typical "1/3 can in each spot" procedure (add to oil, gas tank & intake via brake booster hose), and changed both the oil & plugs later that day. During the application AND the blow-out procedure I didnt' get any smoke. Personally I wasn't impressed. If you use good detergent gas (ie: Chevron), and change & use quality oil, the intake should stay clean.
Of course if your PVC valve fails, you can expect a lot of oil on the throttle and intake...
I'm gonna give Seafoam a second shot on my Type-R swapped Civic before I change the plugs. That motor came used from Japan, so who knows what it's like inside. I do know it's completely spotless under the valve cover though...
I lost an 02 sensor in my 180k+ mile 89 CRX about a week after Seafoming. So ever since I've been weary of using it.
I followed the typical "1/3 can in each spot" procedure (add to oil, gas tank & intake via brake booster hose), and changed both the oil & plugs later that day. During the application AND the blow-out procedure I didnt' get any smoke. Personally I wasn't impressed. If you use good detergent gas (ie: Chevron), and change & use quality oil, the intake should stay clean.
Of course if your PVC valve fails, you can expect a lot of oil on the throttle and intake...
I'm gonna give Seafoam a second shot on my Type-R swapped Civic before I change the plugs. That motor came used from Japan, so who knows what it's like inside. I do know it's completely spotless under the valve cover though...
Last edited by 94eg!; 09-29-2009 at 10:11 AM.
09-29-2009, 10:08 AM
#340
I did not mean to single you out ray- I meant for the thousands of rays with questions or have watched youtube vids of the process and got bad info
Knowledge is power!!
bg is good stuff no doubt- used by shops and DIYrs-has a great youtube on the process and on the related vids are internal camera pics of the process happening,
BUT its cost is more than seafoam for what we are doing,,
same good and clean afterwards, for less $$, is of concern to a lot of us
All I ask is that people use something to clean the injectors (I like Redline SI-1 fuel injector cleaner) and something for the upper intake system/valves/piston tops.
Every bit helps the car run better and reduces emissions, even though we are very low to start, it makes me feel like I have done something to reduce my overall carbon footprint (race cars use up a lot of credits~)
Knowledge is power!!
bg is good stuff no doubt- used by shops and DIYrs-has a great youtube on the process and on the related vids are internal camera pics of the process happening,
BUT its cost is more than seafoam for what we are doing,,
same good and clean afterwards, for less $$, is of concern to a lot of us
All I ask is that people use something to clean the injectors (I like Redline SI-1 fuel injector cleaner) and something for the upper intake system/valves/piston tops.
Every bit helps the car run better and reduces emissions, even though we are very low to start, it makes me feel like I have done something to reduce my overall carbon footprint (race cars use up a lot of credits~)
09-29-2009, 10:18 AM
#341
180,000 miles and you are going to blame seafoam for a failed O2- thats a stretch dont you think? Those are replaced on most cars every 50-60k miles, on the TL they go longer but may fail at any time over 80-100kmiles..Id say you got a long life from them
If 1 went they both should be replaced at this high mileage
Change the plugs the same day and expect some more crud to get on them!, new plugs should burn hot enough to self clear but,,,,
1/3 of a can is not typical application- just the marketing depts abilty to create fiction on a small can
Read the real website and find that more than 5 oz per area is needed to do a really good job
5 oz is good in the oil before change but how does it equate to 2oz per gallon of gasoline for cleaning strength and 1 to 1 for maitenance dose with only 5 ouncs.. and many people will put it in a full tank??
Less than 3/4 oz per gal is not effective- per seafoam site
Best results are from 1 can 16oz, to 1/2 tank-8 gallons of gas
and as much of 1 can as the engine will take before rough running and stalls
If 1 went they both should be replaced at this high mileage
Change the plugs the same day and expect some more crud to get on them!, new plugs should burn hot enough to self clear but,,,,
1/3 of a can is not typical application- just the marketing depts abilty to create fiction on a small can
Read the real website and find that more than 5 oz per area is needed to do a really good job
5 oz is good in the oil before change but how does it equate to 2oz per gallon of gasoline for cleaning strength and 1 to 1 for maitenance dose with only 5 ouncs.. and many people will put it in a full tank??
Less than 3/4 oz per gal is not effective- per seafoam site
Best results are from 1 can 16oz, to 1/2 tank-8 gallons of gas
and as much of 1 can as the engine will take before rough running and stalls
09-29-2009, 10:28 AM
#342
I don't think it's a stretch at all. My mother-in-law has owned several high-mileage Hondas (270k+) and never had to replace an O2 sensor. Your estimate of 50-60k mile lifespan is laughable. If Acura had to replace every other V6's two LAF wideband O2 sensors before the warranty was up, they would go broke (at $160 each + labor)... lol
BTW: Following the instructions on the can is pretty "typical" don't you think. Otherwise the instructions would "Please see internet dweebs for use"... lol
PS: CRX has only one non-heated single-wire narrowband 02 sensor.
BTW: Following the instructions on the can is pretty "typical" don't you think. Otherwise the instructions would "Please see internet dweebs for use"... lol
PS: CRX has only one non-heated single-wire narrowband 02 sensor.
Last edited by 94eg!; 09-29-2009 at 10:31 AM.
09-29-2009, 10:39 AM
#343
Respect Freedom
01tl4tl
Good info. I was aware of the clock fuse on my 2G, but the 3G is obviously different. I'll take a look at the Seafoam website regarding proportions for the next oil & gas service.
I had planned to change the plugs about a week after the Seafoam treatment, but when all h... broke loose and I had a fouled plug code and misfire on #6, I went ahead and changed them as part of the sequence to alleviate the problem. Hopefully, they'll burn hot enough to take care of any subsequent layers of the proverbial onion. So far, so good with the Bosch - if this changes, then back to NGK.
Oil changes at 3k: If the oil still looks clean, then I'll leave it a while longer. Basically, I change it when it starts to discolor with dirt.
Thanks.
Good info. I was aware of the clock fuse on my 2G, but the 3G is obviously different. I'll take a look at the Seafoam website regarding proportions for the next oil & gas service.
I had planned to change the plugs about a week after the Seafoam treatment, but when all h... broke loose and I had a fouled plug code and misfire on #6, I went ahead and changed them as part of the sequence to alleviate the problem. Hopefully, they'll burn hot enough to take care of any subsequent layers of the proverbial onion. So far, so good with the Bosch - if this changes, then back to NGK.
Oil changes at 3k: If the oil still looks clean, then I'll leave it a while longer. Basically, I change it when it starts to discolor with dirt.
Thanks.
09-29-2009, 09:19 PM
#344
oil is supposed to carry combustion byproduct crud to the oil filter, so its doing its job when color changes
Not all the particles can be captured (too small) so the oil holds them in suspension and appears dirty...
you should see what it looks like after seafoam in oil and drive 30 miles/minutes- goes from amber to black!
Unless you are using bargain basement oil, it will last 5000 miles at least. If you are driving it hard the MID knows and recalculates interval - when percentage drops below 20% that would be extra careful maitenance
If you track day the car, change the oil for that extreme rpm use
New plugs wont have any problem for remaining cleanup of crud- some people were changing plugs then foaming and not doing a great after-drive..loading up the new plugs and reducing the results gained
Its suggested that noobs repeat the gas tank and intake vac port methods in a month/1500 miles to get the remaining stuff- then you are good for a year 15kmiles
Pull a front plug once a month and note condition-wear and color
Do the b4s still have 4 big electrodes going toward the center point?
I cant explain why seafoam has lousy directions on the can, if you read Deep Creep (seafoam aerosol) it has way more info- being a much taller can to print on
A little bit will help clean yes - but for fastest/immediate results in this world of instant gratification, the heavier doses will get the best result- the kind you can feel the very next time driving-- accelleration is better, idle smoother, mileage usually gets better after you stop hotfooting and enjoying the new car feel~
My neighbor wasnt seeing smoke about halfway thru the can as we did his older dodge truck with plenty of miles, so I held the rpm at 1700 for a minute---SMOOOOOOOKE!!!
Its all about heat in the cat reacting to the oils that make seafoam
Their tech section describes what its made from.
That same heat in the cat protects it from the stuff headed its way so no worry there
Not all the particles can be captured (too small) so the oil holds them in suspension and appears dirty...
you should see what it looks like after seafoam in oil and drive 30 miles/minutes- goes from amber to black!
Unless you are using bargain basement oil, it will last 5000 miles at least. If you are driving it hard the MID knows and recalculates interval - when percentage drops below 20% that would be extra careful maitenance
If you track day the car, change the oil for that extreme rpm use
New plugs wont have any problem for remaining cleanup of crud- some people were changing plugs then foaming and not doing a great after-drive..loading up the new plugs and reducing the results gained
Its suggested that noobs repeat the gas tank and intake vac port methods in a month/1500 miles to get the remaining stuff- then you are good for a year 15kmiles
Pull a front plug once a month and note condition-wear and color
Do the b4s still have 4 big electrodes going toward the center point?
I cant explain why seafoam has lousy directions on the can, if you read Deep Creep (seafoam aerosol) it has way more info- being a much taller can to print on
A little bit will help clean yes - but for fastest/immediate results in this world of instant gratification, the heavier doses will get the best result- the kind you can feel the very next time driving-- accelleration is better, idle smoother, mileage usually gets better after you stop hotfooting and enjoying the new car feel~
My neighbor wasnt seeing smoke about halfway thru the can as we did his older dodge truck with plenty of miles, so I held the rpm at 1700 for a minute---SMOOOOOOOKE!!!
Its all about heat in the cat reacting to the oils that make seafoam
Their tech section describes what its made from.
That same heat in the cat protects it from the stuff headed its way so no worry there
09-29-2009, 09:25 PM
#345
Its not my estimate of O2 life and suggested replacement, thats in the book for many cars I used to work on.
Many of those same cars also went 60 on the timing belt, so overall they wore everything out faster
Those who get smog test with the sniffer in the tailpipe are the only ones who can say for sure the O2 sensors are still working perfectly, or those who get down there and do the resistance testing on each one
Many of those same cars also went 60 on the timing belt, so overall they wore everything out faster
Those who get smog test with the sniffer in the tailpipe are the only ones who can say for sure the O2 sensors are still working perfectly, or those who get down there and do the resistance testing on each one
09-30-2009, 01:01 PM
#346
Vegas Bum
Does anyone know where to get Seafoam in Canada??? I tried Walmart, Cdn Tire, Part Source and Princess Auto with no luck 
I might have to take a trip to Buffalo this weekend to pick some up!
I might have to take a trip to Buffalo this weekend to pick some up!
09-30-2009, 01:17 PM
#347
Racer
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Toronto, CAN
Age: 39
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10-17-2009, 11:23 PM
#348
1st Gear
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
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Seafoam in Canada
First, thanks to all forum contributors for informative and helpful comments: they inspired me to seafoam my 3g TL.
Second, to all Canadians inquiring about product purchase: you can find it at any Carquest or Napa locations across GTA (Greater Toronto Area) at CAD $12. But the best value comes from the PartSource stores at CAD $9 (there are two of them in Mississauga, on Dundas x Dixie and Winston Churchill x Dundas).
And now, the most important: I DID IT!!!!
Was hesitant at first, but then decided to do. So...
- 3g 2004 TL Navi base model.
- 160'000 km (100'000 miles)
- used 16 oz (one can) of Seafoam in a half tank gas and another full can sipped thru the vacuum line into the intake manifold. Took me half an hr, but didn't stall my engine at all.
- turned engine off and waited for 20 min.
-didn't want to start at first but then did and, oh heavens! it sounded scarry
with metallic knocking noise. Sat like that for 10 min and then took a careful slow drive around the block.
- when the eng. stabilized and knocking sound was gone I headed to the highway.
- boy, at that moment entire street got covered in a humongous cloud of fumes. People behind me started slowing down and changing lanes
By the time I got to the hwy though, the smoke was gone.
- drove for about 30 min at 4000 rpm at 3rd gear and few times went to 5000 rpm (at these points Check Engine Warning light started flashing and scared me to death, but stopped after a few seconds as soon as I slowed down, should I expect any problems in future? No other lights went off during entire procedure.)
As well added 1/2 can into oil crankcase and drove 15 min to my mechanic to change oil and filter.
The car moves noticeably smoother, but so far no increase in MPG. I changed, as well, spark plugs (IR NGK), all filters, tires, timing belt/water pump etc (a major mid-life overhaul).
MPG keeps at about 13 liters per 100 km (18 MPG)
, which still sucks.
Hope it's gonna improve oven couple of weeks.
Second, to all Canadians inquiring about product purchase: you can find it at any Carquest or Napa locations across GTA (Greater Toronto Area) at CAD $12. But the best value comes from the PartSource stores at CAD $9 (there are two of them in Mississauga, on Dundas x Dixie and Winston Churchill x Dundas).
And now, the most important: I DID IT!!!!
Was hesitant at first, but then decided to do. So...
- 3g 2004 TL Navi base model.
- 160'000 km (100'000 miles)
- used 16 oz (one can) of Seafoam in a half tank gas and another full can sipped thru the vacuum line into the intake manifold. Took me half an hr, but didn't stall my engine at all.
- turned engine off and waited for 20 min.
-didn't want to start at first but then did and, oh heavens! it sounded scarry
with metallic knocking noise. Sat like that for 10 min and then took a careful slow drive around the block.- when the eng. stabilized and knocking sound was gone I headed to the highway.
- boy, at that moment entire street got covered in a humongous cloud of fumes. People behind me started slowing down and changing lanes
By the time I got to the hwy though, the smoke was gone.- drove for about 30 min at 4000 rpm at 3rd gear and few times went to 5000 rpm (at these points Check Engine Warning light started flashing and scared me to death, but stopped after a few seconds as soon as I slowed down, should I expect any problems in future? No other lights went off during entire procedure.)
As well added 1/2 can into oil crankcase and drove 15 min to my mechanic to change oil and filter.
The car moves noticeably smoother, but so far no increase in MPG. I changed, as well, spark plugs (IR NGK), all filters, tires, timing belt/water pump etc (a major mid-life overhaul).
MPG keeps at about 13 liters per 100 km (18 MPG)
, which still sucks.Hope it's gonna improve oven couple of weeks.
11-11-2009, 06:30 PM
#350
when liquifeid crud gets on the O2 sensors as it passes out the exhaust- it causes false codes and CEL light that self clears in a day or 2 of driving- burning crud off
It may have been a little too much crud all at once or too much rpm,,usually its in the after drive that the procedure needs tweaking
Dont worry about them- seafoam will not harm cats or O2 sensors or anything else
when followed even close to the directions. .and the codes clear
It may have been a little too much crud all at once or too much rpm,,usually its in the after drive that the procedure needs tweaking
Dont worry about them- seafoam will not harm cats or O2 sensors or anything else
when followed even close to the directions. .and the codes clear
11-11-2009, 06:36 PM
#351
I see what happened- you drove 30 minutes at 4000, thats going to overheat the cat and cause its own codes-
10 minutes of 4000 is plenty and some runs to 5000
you did an excellent job of slow adding it and letting it cook- so lots of crud would be coming thru the exhaust
On startup let it gain its composure for a minute or 2 until it will rev to 2000 then begin driving at 2000--in 1 or 2 gear
it will sound clearer as seafoam moves out and more gas moves in- there is a big dilution at first and below 50/50 it wont run at all- thats what stalls the engine while foaming.
Once you can get 4000 rev- get on freeway or good sideroad and 4000 10 minutes
repeat the gas and vac port. 1/2 can in each is ok in a month or 2
then good for a year
10 minutes of 4000 is plenty and some runs to 5000
you did an excellent job of slow adding it and letting it cook- so lots of crud would be coming thru the exhaust
On startup let it gain its composure for a minute or 2 until it will rev to 2000 then begin driving at 2000--in 1 or 2 gear
it will sound clearer as seafoam moves out and more gas moves in- there is a big dilution at first and below 50/50 it wont run at all- thats what stalls the engine while foaming.
Once you can get 4000 rev- get on freeway or good sideroad and 4000 10 minutes
repeat the gas and vac port. 1/2 can in each is ok in a month or 2
then good for a year
11-11-2009, 06:40 PM
#352
you are still running it in the gas so its still at work on the injectors and whats leftover on the valves and pistons
Once all the cleaner has gone thru you should notice 1-3mpg better overall
Keep your foot out of it, inflate tires to 36-38psi not 32
clean air filter
enjoy
Have you done the cabin air filter yet?
Once all the cleaner has gone thru you should notice 1-3mpg better overall
Keep your foot out of it, inflate tires to 36-38psi not 32
clean air filter
enjoy
Have you done the cabin air filter yet?
12-17-2009, 01:02 AM
#355
if you followed my instructions there was a lot more going on that you can see in the mirror
If you want smoke I can tell you how- hold rpm at 2000 and sip sip sip seafoam into the vac port
It will look like fog in a minute and is an effective method too!
1st timers repeat gas tank and vac port in a month 2000 miles- then good for a year
If you want smoke I can tell you how- hold rpm at 2000 and sip sip sip seafoam into the vac port
It will look like fog in a minute and is an effective method too!
1st timers repeat gas tank and vac port in a month 2000 miles- then good for a year
12-17-2009, 01:03 AM
#356
Park is safer gear since the car is locked into a stopped position with the trans and park brake
Always a bummer for car to roll over your foot
Why use N is the question?
Always a bummer for car to roll over your foot
Why use N is the question?
01-03-2010, 11:14 PM
#357
01tl4tl, are you sure that it won't hydrolock my engine? I mean, my car was running fine with my old engine until I seafoamed the car. Now I don't want to have a huge bill on my hands because of this, but I'd like to clean out the crankcase/injectors, etc... LMK, I bought 2 cans today.
01-04-2010, 04:46 AM
#358
it wont hydro the engine- simply follow the directions and sip sip sip- let engine stabilize- sip sip sip- use master vac port at TB
If you had problem with other engines there must have been underlying problems- seafoam wont damage anything-
just be used incorrectly!
for more details read makers website www.seafoamsales.com
for the oil- add 1/2 can to oil and drive 30 minutes- change oil and filter
Injectors- add 1 can to 1 HALF tank of gas, so 2 oz per gal of fuel will take care of them for you
If you had problem with other engines there must have been underlying problems- seafoam wont damage anything-
just be used incorrectly!
for more details read makers website www.seafoamsales.com
for the oil- add 1/2 can to oil and drive 30 minutes- change oil and filter
Injectors- add 1 can to 1 HALF tank of gas, so 2 oz per gal of fuel will take care of them for you
01-04-2010, 06:16 AM
#359
Chapter Leader (Houston)
iTrader: (7)
I am a complete noob and I was able to do it following the instructions on here. I have an 04 5AT with 88k miles and I have seen improvement in my gas mileage and throttle response. I did the vacuum lines and gas tank. I will be doing the crank case whenever I'm about to do an oil change. Big thanks to 01tl4tl and the rest of you guys on the site, I really appreciate it.
01-04-2010, 11:59 AM
#360
great to hear it went well for you!!-
remember to repeat gas and intake in a month/1500 miles then you're good for a year
add 1 can to full tank of gas every 5000 for maitenance dose
use 1 can to 1/2 tank for super cleaning dose
Remove the intake rubber snout and clean the TB throat air plate - I use Deep Creep/ seafoam in aerosol version to clean and lube the hinge pivots in the TB (carb cleaner ok)
gen3 have buddy turn key to ON so plate opens and closes in a self test- repeat a few times so you can spray the sides and back well- the edges are important as thats where they seal at idle
For oil method, drive a few miles to warm engine then add 1/2 can thru oil cap
Drive 30 minutes or more to really push cleaner thru the system and let the crud get to the oil filter for capture, Can drive up to 150 miles no prob if you want- or install a new filter and drive up to 500 for a really dirty old engine- with close monitoring
Gen3 has a problem with vtec sliders gumming up so I make sure to get some vtec action during the drive- just enough to get it into vtec- say 5000 for 20 seconds and let off- repeat several times and sliders will be free to work as planned
vtec operates by detecting oil pressure changes, and it works on oil pressure to move the parts--something I think should be kept clean
remember to repeat gas and intake in a month/1500 miles then you're good for a year
add 1 can to full tank of gas every 5000 for maitenance dose
use 1 can to 1/2 tank for super cleaning dose
Remove the intake rubber snout and clean the TB throat air plate - I use Deep Creep/ seafoam in aerosol version to clean and lube the hinge pivots in the TB (carb cleaner ok)
gen3 have buddy turn key to ON so plate opens and closes in a self test- repeat a few times so you can spray the sides and back well- the edges are important as thats where they seal at idle
For oil method, drive a few miles to warm engine then add 1/2 can thru oil cap
Drive 30 minutes or more to really push cleaner thru the system and let the crud get to the oil filter for capture, Can drive up to 150 miles no prob if you want- or install a new filter and drive up to 500 for a really dirty old engine- with close monitoring
Gen3 has a problem with vtec sliders gumming up so I make sure to get some vtec action during the drive- just enough to get it into vtec- say 5000 for 20 seconds and let off- repeat several times and sliders will be free to work as planned
vtec operates by detecting oil pressure changes, and it works on oil pressure to move the parts--something I think should be kept clean