'07-'08 BASE Pressure switches
#1
'07-'08 BASE Pressure switches
alright so i've seen the DIY for the 04-06 pressure switch, but my car is a 08. from what i hear, the 07-08 have different switch locations, as well as two 3rd gear switches instead of one.
well i found this post by a member here showing it for a 07-08 along with pictures. have a look here https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=195
my question is
1. is that picture of a TYPE-S 07-08 or base? pretty much i'm just wondering if the 07-08 BASE and TYPE-S have the same switch locations.
2. i have a aftermarket injen CAI installed. by looking at the very first picture of his post, it looks like my CAI will get in the way of one of the sensors. is this do-able without removing my CAI?
well i found this post by a member here showing it for a 07-08 along with pictures. have a look here https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=195
my question is
1. is that picture of a TYPE-S 07-08 or base? pretty much i'm just wondering if the 07-08 BASE and TYPE-S have the same switch locations.
2. i have a aftermarket injen CAI installed. by looking at the very first picture of his post, it looks like my CAI will get in the way of one of the sensors. is this do-able without removing my CAI?
#2
AZ Community Team
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#1 doesn't matter because it's the same Transmission case and sensor locations.
#3
the guide says to remove the stock airbox, so i'm assuming i need to. i would just like to know for sure before i end up taking my bumper off and un bolting my CAI, only to find out there is another way around it.
#4
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In the thread you linked there's a picture a page or so later of someone with an Injen CAi discussing access to the 4th gear switch.
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ggesq (08-08-2011)
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
i have an aem v2 cai. u do not need to remove the intake. believe me u have A LOT of room because you have an intake. with the stock airbox, u have to remove it, but the cold air intake gives u so much more room. and btw the 07-08 base and type s have the same transmission. good luck with the switches
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Bearcat94 (07-27-2011)
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xMLMx (10-27-2023)
#7
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
To get to the 3rd pressure switch, you will need to remove the filter from your aftermarket CAI. But that's easy.
I have tried to get to the 4th pressure switch, but have trouble, I had to remove my CAI. But then I was stuck... I didn't know how to remove the other part that gets in the way...
I have tried to get to the 4th pressure switch, but have trouble, I had to remove my CAI. But then I was stuck... I didn't know how to remove the other part that gets in the way...
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#8
Team Owner
iTrader: (4)
To get to the 3rd pressure switch, you will need to remove the filter from your aftermarket CAI. But that's easy.
I have tried to get to the 4th pressure switch, but have trouble, I had to remove my CAI. But then I was stuck... I didn't know how to remove the other part that gets in the way...
I have tried to get to the 4th pressure switch, but have trouble, I had to remove my CAI. But then I was stuck... I didn't know how to remove the other part that gets in the way...
#11
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
So far for me so good, no slipping nothing out of the ordinary.
Oh btw, for the 4th gear switch that's on the side of the transmission, did you have to move that large metal piece over the sensor out of the way to access it? I am not sure which bolt to unscrew.
#15
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^why would you think that?
yes i would go ahead and do this on your car.
yes i would go ahead and do this on your car.
#16
This isn't a blatant issue across their whole spectrum of cars and transmission failure in the 07/08 years seems to be rather nonexistent (based off of searching/reading on this forum).
I guess I would rather not dig into transmission sensors if we can conclude the issue has been resolved.
(don't worry Sharks, I copied this post before hitting submit to make sure everything goes A-Okay)
Last edited by ALarsh; 03-07-2013 at 10:27 AM.
#19
I just did these on my 08 Base. I paid $120 (1 hr) labor to a local shop. After the job was done they told me they should have charged 1.5 LoL.
Anyways, I've only driven about 30 mins but I can definitely say this made a difference. The trans never slipped but it would lurch a bit between 3rd & 4th, 5th to 4th. Note it seems normal and smooth.
Thank you guys!
Anyways, I've only driven about 30 mins but I can definitely say this made a difference. The trans never slipped but it would lurch a bit between 3rd & 4th, 5th to 4th. Note it seems normal and smooth.
Thank you guys!
#20
Broken 3rd gear pressure switch
New user and this is my first post. I want to apologize if this post is in the wrong place. Ive read up on a couple topics and decided to change the pressure switches while doing and are flush. I have a base 08 TL @ 75k. Long story short, I didn't use a torch wrench and broke off the sensor. Is anybody as dumb as I am and have had to deal with this problem? It was dark and tried to snap a couple pics. What thinking about trying an easy out/ left hand drill, but idk if I even can or if I feel safe about it. Any advice or help would be much appreciated
#21
New user and this is my first post. I want to apologize if this post is in the wrong place. Ive read up on a couple topics and decided to change the pressure switches while doing and are flush. I have a base 08 TL @ 75k. Long story short, I didn't use a torch wrench and broke off the sensor. Is anybody as dumb as I am and have had to deal with this problem? It was dark and tried to snap a couple pics. What thinking about trying an easy out/ left hand drill, but idk if I even can or if I feel safe about it. Any advice or help would be much appreciated
#22
#23
New to the site. I have an 08 tl base 94xxx miles. I bought 3rd and 4th pressure switch but reading on here that some have said that there's 2 3rd switches? I know where 3rd and 4th need to be replaced but can someone tell me the other location please?
#24
#25
Senior Moderator
To my knowledge, they are not compatible so that's probably why
#26
3rd pressure switch
Hello I just recently did my switches, and everything was going well until I changed the 3rd gear switch. It made my d start flashing and it threw on the CEL. So I needed up putting the old one back in and reset the transmission. And the flashing d stopped. Has anyone else run into this and if so what was the fix, oh also I have tried several switches for the third including an OEM parts. Thanks in advance.
#28
Three Wheelin'
Hello I just recently did my switches, and everything was going well until I changed the 3rd gear switch. It made my d start flashing and it threw on the CEL. So I needed up putting the old one back in and reset the transmission. And the flashing d stopped. Has anyone else run into this and if so what was the fix, oh also I have tried several switches for the third including an OEM parts. Thanks in advance.
#30
you know I did notice the hope diameter was a bit bigger, but the switch is the part number for the switch it's an OEM Honda part that I used, is it common for the part to have different diameter, I can get the light to stop by putting back the old switch, also I have tried two different Honda pressure switches all the same part number, but both of them have caused cel or flashing d. The first one threw code for circuit "b" pressure high, now the second switch that I put in says pressure low. I'm stumped any help is greatly appreciated. TIA
#31
So now let us know what part number you have and where you are trying to put it.
Don't write "it's 3rd pressure switch", but instead write where that spot is located on the trans, or post a picture.
You must be doing something wrong.
Don't write "it's 3rd pressure switch", but instead write where that spot is located on the trans, or post a picture.
You must be doing something wrong.
#32
Like I said earlier to the other reply, the diameter of the hole in the switch is a lot bigger than the hole of the original pressure switch. For the record the car really drove well before I started all of this, the shifting was not as smooth as friends k when I first got the car, and in some cases it seemed to stall to shift into fourth gear, like I would have to hover at 30000 rpms for like 5-6 seconds before it finally switched gears. The transmission fluid is still red for the most part and I didnt see any debris in it when I changed it out a year ago, and no debris when I changed it again after installing the new switches. After I drove it for a while and the fluid gets heated up, I can turn the car off and the flashing D will go away and I can clear the CEL. And the error goes away completely. Now I'm really confused. I called the dealer and asked the rep what it could be and he said the switch is bad, but what are the odds of me getting two brand new defective switches?
As always any help is much appreciated
#33
Three Wheelin'
the part number that I used is 28610-RKE-004, and on my tl the 3rd switch is in the front and you have to engage it from the driver side tire well, it's at the bottom and In front of the transmission. The other switches that I used were part number 28600-rke-004 there are two of these for the second and fourth pressure switches.
Like I said earlier to the other reply, the diameter of the hole in the switch is a lot bigger than the hole of the original pressure switch. For the record the car really drove well before I started all of this, the shifting was not as smooth as friends k when I first got the car, and in some cases it seemed to stall to shift into fourth gear, like I would have to hover at 30000 rpms for like 5-6 seconds before it finally switched gears. The transmission fluid is still red for the most part and I didnt see any debris in it when I changed it out a year ago, and no debris when I changed it again after installing the new switches. After I drove it for a while and the fluid gets heated up, I can turn the car off and the flashing D will go away and I can clear the CEL. And the error goes away completely. Now I'm really confused. I called the dealer and asked the rep what it could be and he said the switch is bad, but what are the odds of me getting two brand new defective switches?
As always any help is much appreciated
Like I said earlier to the other reply, the diameter of the hole in the switch is a lot bigger than the hole of the original pressure switch. For the record the car really drove well before I started all of this, the shifting was not as smooth as friends k when I first got the car, and in some cases it seemed to stall to shift into fourth gear, like I would have to hover at 30000 rpms for like 5-6 seconds before it finally switched gears. The transmission fluid is still red for the most part and I didnt see any debris in it when I changed it out a year ago, and no debris when I changed it again after installing the new switches. After I drove it for a while and the fluid gets heated up, I can turn the car off and the flashing D will go away and I can clear the CEL. And the error goes away completely. Now I'm really confused. I called the dealer and asked the rep what it could be and he said the switch is bad, but what are the odds of me getting two brand new defective switches?
As always any help is much appreciated
Old FORDS used a starter solenoid mounted on the inner fender that were notorious for failing right out of the box. I would keep 2 or 3 on the shelf.
#34
Makes sense but how
A few years ago, there were some counterfeits circulating--still might be. After changing the switch a SECOND time, it dawned on me it might be the hole diameter. Sure enough. I made sure the next one matched the original hole diameter and voila--problem solved. Except for the NEW switches I tossed out. $$$
Old FORDS used a starter solenoid mounted on the inner fender that were notorious for failing right out of the box. I would keep 2 or 3 on the shelf.
Old FORDS used a starter solenoid mounted on the inner fender that were notorious for failing right out of the box. I would keep 2 or 3 on the shelf.
#36
Thanks for help
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