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Greetings, comrades! So I just took my 6-speed trans out of my car, and I've noticed what I believe to be an abnormality. The sleeve/tube or whatever you want to call it, where the throwout bearing sits - seems to have an ever so slightly noticable groove, maybe 1 mil or something. Right next to the clutch-case it's obviously a bit wider, but closer to the splines on the mainshaft there seems to be a bit of wear, and the bearing isn't sitting very tight. Here's a question for those who've done clutch/flywheel replacement on their 3rd gens - is this normal, or should this sleeve be completely smooth? Thanks in advance. Hope it's clear what I'm talking about.
Greetings, comrades! So I just took my 6-speed trans out of my car, and I've noticed what I believe to be an abnormality. The sleeve/tube or whatever you want to call it, where the throwout bearing sits - seems to have an ever so slightly noticable groove, maybe 1 mil or something. Right next to the clutch-case it's obviously a bit wider, but closer to the splines on the mainshaft there seems to be a bit of wear, and the bearing isn't sitting very tight. Here's a question for those who've done clutch/flywheel replacement on their 3rd gens - is this normal, or should this sleeve be completely smooth? Thanks in advance. Hope it's clear what I'm talking about.
Greetings, comrades! So I just took my 6-speed trans out of my car, and I've noticed what I believe to be an abnormality. The sleeve/tube or whatever you want to call it, where the throwout bearing sits - seems to have an ever so slightly noticable groove, maybe 1 mil or something. Right next to the clutch-case it's obviously a bit wider, but closer to the splines on the mainshaft there seems to be a bit of wear, and the bearing isn't sitting very tight. Here's a question for those who've done clutch/flywheel replacement on their 3rd gens - is this normal, or should this sleeve be completely smooth? Thanks in advance. Hope it's clear what I'm talking about.
Does the attachment (CLS6) show the area you are referring to?
It should be replaced with the clutch. And if you want it to last, I would use Honda HT urea grease on it.
I'm referring not to the bearing itself, but to the extension on the clutch-case where it sits. That's a bit more difficult to replace. It would require the entire clutch-case to be replaced. Or some improvisation.
Last edited by InspireJ32A; 03-19-2018 at 03:10 PM.
The sleeve/tube or whatever you want to call it, where the throwout bearing sits - seems to have an ever so slightly noticable groove, maybe 1 mil or something. Right next to the clutch-case it's obviously a bit wider, but closer to the splines on the mainshaft there seems to be a bit of wear, and the bearing isn't sitting very tight.
I scanned the next page of the repair manual and that area you highlighted IS an area (one of many) it states to lubricate (see attachment).
However, i'm not sure if your '...maybe 1 mil or something...' noticable groove would be considered excessive or 'normal wear & tear', sorry.
I'm leaning torward 'normal wear & tear', .
What's the opinion of the transmission rebuilder, as to the condition, with the amount of miles you have on the box?
As you know, just make sure they 'lube' all specified areas real good, that is if you don't opt for an expensive case replacement.
I'm referring not to the bearing itself, but to the extension on the clutch-case where it sits. That's a bit more difficult to replace. It would require the entire clutch-case to be replaced. Or some improvisation.
Ah. Ok. The TL has it integrated into the case. A lot of Hondas have them as bolt-in pieces. For those cars, the release bearing guide should always be replaced.
If its integrated, then you'd need to clean it with brake cleaner and scuff it off until its smooth (sand paper of increasing grit count). Then grease it with HT urea.
If someone used the wrong type of grease, it will wear very fast and become wavy and cause the pedal to "catch" on the way up.
I once bought an 08 Civic Si with this issue. Some fruitcake "lubricated" it with anti seize...which caused a lot of damage. I was able to smooth it out and fix it.
Your limiting factor is that you want to absolutely minimize the material you remove.
If you can lube it with HT urea and then slide it back/forth by hand smoothly...then leave it.
Don't just use "some grease". If you don't want to go to a dealer, then try to source high temp polyurea grease elsewhere -- maybe a bicycle shop?
Ah. Ok. The TL has it integrated into the case. A lot of Hondas have them as bolt-in pieces. For those cars, the release bearing guide should always be replaced.
If its integrated, then you'd need to clean it with brake cleaner and scuff it off until its smooth (sand paper of increasing grit count). Then grease it with HT urea.
If someone used the wrong type of grease, it will wear very fast and become wavy and cause the pedal to "catch" on the way up.
I once bought an 08 Civic Si with this issue. Some fruitcake "lubricated" it with anti seize...which caused a lot of damage. I was able to smooth it out and fix it.
Your limiting factor is that you want to absolutely minimize the material you remove.
If you can lube it with HT urea and then slide it back/forth by hand smoothly...then leave it.
Don't just use "some grease". If you don't want to go to a dealer, then try to source high temp polyurea grease elsewhere -- maybe a bicycle shop?
Does it have to be polyurea? We don't seem to have this sort of grease for sale in my country. Maybe just your normal HT grease for wheel bearings, CV joints, brake caliper guide pins will do? Or it absolutely has to be polyurea?
Polyurea works really well for clutches in particular. I think the honda stuff is "shear stable" polyurea?
Maybe brake grease or wheel bearing grease would work, I suppose. But...it may not work that well for very long.
Right. Looks like I found something after all - not Honda OEM, but "Huskey" brand urea grease. It's in a different city, but that's fixable. Thanks for the heads-up!
Right. Looks like I found something after all - not Honda OEM, but "Huskey" brand urea grease. It's in a different city, but that's fixable. Thanks for the heads-up!
InspireJ32A, did you happen to take any pics of that 1mil grove on the release bearing sleeve?
Just Americanets are curious.
I made a video showing the problem. Sorry for the vertical camera, I could've sworn I was holding my phone horizontally, must've been a glitch when I was recording.
My shop quoted me about 100 dollars to fix the problem. Not too bad, I'm probably gonna go for it, but before I do that - I'd just like to hear your opinions.
That video was possibly the best way to convey just what you are dealing with, nicely done.
First, IMHO, I'd trash the old clutch release fork (if possible) and invest in a new one just because of the shape that it's in and you don't want to have to 'pull' that tranny again just to have to 'd*ck' around with it if it should get worse or fail.
If you assemble a new clutch release bearing and fork into their designated areas of the clutch case with the release spring, so that they interact together as a normal use mechanism within said case, would the new release bearing still 'wobble/fit loosely' as it moves proximate while being actuated by the new fork? I'm guessing yes?
The reason I ask if it still 'wobles/fits loosely' is because with the whole mechanism assembled, there appears to be some space between the release shaft and bearing as shown in the pictures below. the second picture is clearer:
Originally Posted by 6spd-GERCO
Get what I'm saying?
It may not be something to worry about and easily corrected with a new fork and bearing?
The reason I ask if it still 'wobles/fits loosely' is because with the whole mechanism assembled, there appears to be some space between the release shaft and bearing as shown in the pictures below. the second picture is clearer:
Get what I'm saying?
It may not be something to worry about and easily corrected with a new fork and bearing?
TBH I haven't conducted any experiments of that sort, so I really don't know what to say. Regardless, judging by the photos that you just posted - the bearing should fit really tight and snug. Which seems to be the case on your pics. Also, I don't see the irregularities that I'm seeing on my gearbox. I guess I should go ahead and have it fixed then.
TBH I haven't conducted any experiments of that sort, so I really don't know what to say. Regardless, judging by the photos that you just posted - the bearing should fit really tight and snug. Which seems to be the case on your pics. Also, I don't see the irregularities that I'm seeing on my gearbox. I guess I should go ahead and have it fixed then.
Yeah. I just took a closer look at your video, by stopping and starting it, and I now see what you are saying. Best to have it fixed.
^
Nice.
So it looks like they put some kind of 'sleeve' over the original, fastened it with a weld at the base, and then machined it down to fit your release bearing?
^
Nice.
So it looks like they put some kind of 'sleeve' over the original, fastened it with a weld at the base, and then machined it down to fit your release bearing?
That sounds about right, except I don't think they welded anything - just kind of pressed it on. Also it's a steel sleeve: I'm no expert, but I think that the two metals (steel and aluminum) can't be welded together, correct me if I'm wrong.
That sounds about right, except I don't think they welded anything - just kind of pressed it on. Also it's a steel sleeve: I'm no expert, but I think that the two metals (steel and aluminum) can't be welded together, correct me if I'm wrong.
Yeah, I see it now the steel sleeve is darker than the inner aluminium.
I think it can be done; however, it involves a special equipment/process. Hopefully the link below works for you;
Hey man. I asked the guys at the shop to take some pictures, here you go. Their seems to be a difference between the gear sets, not sure how much of it is due to wear.
On a related note, the guys at the shop tell me that the gears are severely worn out. When I asked what parts I should buy from this diagram - they say "all of them". Except for the bearings (which were replaced not even a year ago), the mainshaft, and the obvious 3rd gear set which we're putting in right now.
I ordered everything except for number 7 on the diagram. Any thoughts on what sort of adverse effects can be caused by not replacing a worn 5-6 sleeve set?
Hey man. I asked the guys at the shop to take some pictures, here you go. Their seems to be a difference between the gear sets, not sure how much of it is due to wear.
Thanks for those pictures.
It appears the set on the 'bottom' is the newer parts? If so, you can see that the teeth on the synchro appear to have a different shape then the 'top' set'. Perhaps because of wear. Afew appear to be missing?
On a related note, the guys at the shop tell me that the gears are severely worn out. When I asked what parts I should buy from this diagram - they say "all of them". Except for the bearings (which were replaced not even a year ago), the mainshaft, and the obvious 3rd gear set which we're putting in right now. I ordered everything except for number 7 on the diagram. Any thoughts on what sort of adverse effects can be caused by not replacing a worn 5-6 sleeve set?
The only thing I can say is if you did not notice any difficulty in shifting/grinding up in 5-6 gears before having them break the transmission down for this repair, you may just 'get away' with not ordering the worn 5-6 sleeve set and that it may still have 'life' left in it?
03-19-2018, 01:56 PM
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Afew appear to be missing?
