In Manual mode, how high in rpm before you shift?
 

I've been playing around a bit with Manual Sport mode & the paddle shifters. When you start off with M1, how high in rpm do you go (or chance) before you shift? I've always been used to a certain sound of an engine to determine the shift point, but I'm not familiar enough with this engine to determine how it or should go, besides the straight redline on the tach.

'Course I know it's dependent on how hard you want to accelerate. :) I'm just curious what others have found in terms of best acceleration vs wheel spin vs rpm.

Engage your upshift about 200rpm before you want it to shift. I haven't tried but I would not be surprised is this car had a redline cutoff.

I haven't done any manual shifting in my car as of yet. Like miner mentioned, I'd be very surprised if there isn't some type of computer driven cutoff where the car will shift for you if you don't shift on your own. This is an effort to keep owners from damaging their engines. :2cents:

My take is, if you have to ask the question, leave it in full Automatic mode.

Accelerate ..........Wait until the RPM indicator hits the bumstops on the rev counter.. the fuel management system will then choke fuel to the engine..the engine will act like its cutting out..or stall...look at your rev counter..go back by 100 RPMS..remember this position ..as all will be right in the universe

I hit the fuel cutoff many times in my '99 Prelude.

While you're playing, don't forget you can shift the other way. That is, down shift to slow down, just when you enter a curve. You'll be in the right gear on your way out!

Shift at redline, bounce it off the limiter to see where that is at :)

My friend, the RLX comes equipped with a J series engine. Now, the J series may be considered a bit of an appliance engine, made to be reliable and economical first and foremost, however, one thing you can do with it, and pretty much any J series engine is rev the shit out of it, day in, day out. The J series engine loves to breathe and when you mash that throttle, that's when it comes alive. They are built with reliability first and foremost. Honda designed them to handle a lot of tough love. So do yourself a favor, get out there and redline that bitch. Yes, every Honda engine has a redline cutoff. You can't destroy the engine by flooring the gas. The car will let you know when you bounce off the rev limiter. Don't worry. You're not destroying the engine if you do. I've owned enough J series equipped cars to know that bouncing off the rev limiter won't do shit to the engine. Even if you're young and dumb and do it constantly. That's what the limiter is for. So you don't destroy your engine. :D

It reminds me of the time quite a while ago my dad and I went to test drive a Prelude VTEC (a '96, I think). He drove it, and he shifted low enough that we never really hit the "VTEC" part of the band. Still funny to me, even now. :)

When you say the engine acts like it's cutting out or stalling, what does that mean? Does that it means the ICE engine cuts out entire as if you turned it off (e.g it goes to 0 rpm), and you're running off the battery? Or does the rpm gradually drop until the engine goes to a pre-set "okay" rpm and then engages again?

^ it cuts out and drop back 500-800 rpm. So instead of 7k you are back at 6.2-6.5K rpm. It just cuts fuel for a little bit.

Where did you come by this information?

You made such a definitive, declarative statement with authority, I'm kind of curious.

How do you come by this information?

Because that's how it works.
computer cuts fuel at the injectors.
no fuel = slight deceleration.

George..

It was meant as ..humour pince sans rire ............in other words .............................figure of speech... used to imply that a statement or other production is humorously or otherwise not seriously intended, and it should not be taken at face value

While hardly the most trustworthy source, the Wikipedia entry on the RLX's engine states the following:

J35Y4 - Variable Cylinder Management

• 2014+ Acura RLX
• Displacement: 3,476 cc (212.1 cu in)
• Bore and stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in) x 93 mm (3.7 in)
• Compression: 11.5:1
• Power: 310 hp (230 kW) @ 6,500 rpm
• Torque: 272 lb·ft (369 N·m) @ 4,500 rpm
• Valvetrain: 24v SOHC VTEC (VTEC on intake and exhaust valves)
• Red Line: 6,800 rpm
• Fuel cutoff: 7,200 rpm
• Induction/Fuel Delivery: Naturally Aspirated - Direct Injection

Based on this information, when manually shifting for "optimal" acceleration, shifting around 6500- 6800 should work just fine as you won't run into the fuel cutoff. Of course, we'd need to have a look at the torque curve of the J35Y4 to determine the true optimal shift points, but 6500 - 6800 should be adequate for this discussion and to answer the OP's question.

Just my two cents.

I don't know if it works like that in the KC1 but it doesn't work like that in my KC2. Maybe my car is weird.

There's no sign of stuttering from ignition cutout or fuel shut off.

The computer just keeps the car out of the red, perfectly smoothly, and there isn't any way to over ride it.

You have more pedal, but pushing down more has no effect.

If you say you've experienced otherwise in a KC2, I'll believe you, because this isn't the first time that somebody's made me think my car is an oddball, somehow.

The top speed seems to be governed similarly, and it just doesn't matter if the pedal's to the floor: the car just won't go any faster even though it seems like it should or could.

^i dont think it's a cause for concern.
try revving it in neutral. there's a lower cutoff, I think at 5000 RPM

I should have added to my earlier post on the topic that the information I found was pertaining to the KC1 and the Sport Hybrid definitely has "a lot more going on" in the powertrain and may be governed very differently.

I was concerned about what appeared to be misinformation from the perspective of a driver of a KC2.

There's no drama involved.

When people talk about ignition interruptions and fuel shutoff, it sounds like the driver would experience the same kind of dramatic stuttering that would have been encountered in cars of generations back.

It just isn't like that. The car just won't go beyond what it's designed to do, even though the driver has lots of pedal left. The car just says no.

I don't think I care enough about the limits in neutral to be seen as a 62 year old man revving his motor in a driveway.

get in the car and try it, best way to prove it.

I know exactly what my KC2 does, that's why I asked about it. What was being described did not seem to be what happens. :-)

There's no drama or indication of anything going on except that the car just won't go further, despite having more pedal left over.

So your car doesn’t drop back like this?

I am sure you have maxed out the KC2 a few times, George :)

(1) No. It just goes to something that looks like 6900 and stays there. I said looks like because you never really know what it is that Honda wants you to believe v. what is really happening.

(2) This is still far less dramatic than days of yore when there'd be dramatic stuttering to cause the driver to understand that he really must change gears.

I appreciate that you went out of the way to do this, and thank you. I am sorry if I misinterpreted what justnspace was trying to say. I thought he was trying to give us an idea that is different from the idea in your video.

Is the car in the video a KC1 or KC2 (if you know)?

That's another one.

Where the guy says, "That was weird" it indicates something that my car does not do.

I believe its a KC1, because if you look at the left side where the battery meter is on the KC2, this one looks like its the Temp gauge with the red line at the top......

In manual mode, does your KC2 drop back several hundred RPM when you hit the limit, or does it just hold a particular RPM?

I've only done this once, and the rpm needle did not move at all. Just holding......

I think it might have to do with our active gas pedal we have on the KC2.....

The car will up shift automatically at the optimal RPM in manual sport mode when accelerating from a stop.

There are certain scenarios to get it to bounce off of the rev limiter and hold the gear, but generally, it will up shift.