Front suspension rattling
02-06-2018, 06:51 AM
#2
Old known issue. It is either the suspension component connections need to be torqued down to specs, or the shocks need to be replaced under warranty as there is a TSB on this, or both of these things. I hope that helps.
02-06-2018, 02:23 PM
#3
I had mine replaced by the dealer in the summer. Still rattling, still noisy and still rides like junk. Only fix I know of is getting BC coilovers or an Air ride.
02-07-2018, 07:46 AM
#4
Grandpa
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Do you know anybody who has done that? Do we know who makes their coilovers?
One fear is that people would not know what they are doing when choosing spring rates and ride height.
For example, for optimal handling on public roads, I do not believe that you should change the ride height.
I also believe that the spring rates for a 2014-2015 model and a 2016-2017 might have to be different to compensate for the different strengths of the rear sway bars.
Another fear without knowing where these items are manufactured is that you'd be installing items that are not the same life expectancy you'd hope for. (I'm saying that without knowing anything about BC, and I apologize for the inference of ignorance.)
One fear is that people would not know what they are doing when choosing spring rates and ride height.
For example, for optimal handling on public roads, I do not believe that you should change the ride height.
I also believe that the spring rates for a 2014-2015 model and a 2016-2017 might have to be different to compensate for the different strengths of the rear sway bars.
Another fear without knowing where these items are manufactured is that you'd be installing items that are not the same life expectancy you'd hope for. (I'm saying that without knowing anything about BC, and I apologize for the inference of ignorance.)
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pgeorg (02-07-2018)
02-07-2018, 07:48 AM
#5
Grandpa
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These things seem kind of inexpensive for what they are, by the way. 0_o
02-09-2018, 04:55 AM
#6
Senior Moderator
I didn't know much about BC, either, until I bought my NSX over two years ago and started researching suspension options. I considered BC before ultimately going with my "starter" kit of stock springs and Bilstein shocks (on lower perch), perfect for Cleveland streets and once a year track duty. Anyhoo, BC is apparently quite legit. Here's a summary from NSX Prime based on a NSX user's extensive research:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showth...hensive-Review
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showth...hensive-Review
Last edited by neuronbob; 02-09-2018 at 04:58 AM.
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02-09-2018, 06:53 AM
#7
Grandpa
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Thank you.
Unfortunately, the writer confirmed what I conjectured, which is that the dampers would have to be stiffly sprung to overcome a characteristic of the valving.
And I think the smaller swaybar cars should have different spring rates and valving.
But that is all just one old man’s opinion.
Unfortunately, the writer confirmed what I conjectured, which is that the dampers would have to be stiffly sprung to overcome a characteristic of the valving.
And I think the smaller swaybar cars should have different spring rates and valving.
But that is all just one old man’s opinion.
Last edited by George Knighton; 02-09-2018 at 06:55 AM.
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02-10-2018, 09:38 AM
#9
Yev,
Let me share some of my experience and thoughts about dampers.....
The Acura parts department insists that all dampers in inventory made from 2013 to present are the same (despite different part numbers in the computer system.) Dampers made from 2013 and well in to 2016 are definite rattlers. Later production is hit and miss, but generally better. (But not as good as about any other car on the market.) , I actually ordered a front set of dampers using a 2016 SH part number, and instead got a set of 2013/14 dampers. I got a set of really bad rattlers and wasted my cash.
I have contacted Acura in California to obtain dampers of recent production, and they acted totally confused and unhelpful. The local dealer parts department has no idea - they are stuck with the corporate parts system info for damper version number - which is none.
Even the 'TSB Kits' have versions (Spring and damper assembly) - but Acura has not changed the part number. So even if you buy/acquire a TSB kit, you might get an early one with rattler dampers. (Yes, even some of the TSB kits rattled,) Acura will be MOST unhelpful in aiding you in finding a recent production TSB kit.
If you buy a new set of dampers or TSB Kit you MIGHT improve the rattle.
1) Make sure there are factory part number sticker/tags on the damper - instantly return if any damper is without a factory label - it may be a dusty 2013 damper/kit they are trying to get rid of at your expense.
2) If there are stickers, look at the ID's on the damper sticker/tag - that might give a clue about the manufacture date. If you can't determine it is a 2017 manufacture date, instantly return it and save your cash.
3) For wayyyy too many dollars, DSC sport might be able to make up a set of electronic controlled dampers using stock springs - complete with magnetic dampers, controller box, and height sensors. If cash were no object, I would do that and solve both the suspension tuning disaster and the rattles at the same time. (web page is dscsport).
Lastly, importantly (and actually to be done first) - get the car on a lift. Then you or a qualified mechanic you trust look at the suspension and make sure the ball joints/bushings are good.
And for added drama - if the sway bar links are bad, factory parts cost to replace both end link ball joints at each side is on the order of $1000. Then add a lot of labor and an alignment . For just about any other car, new end links with ball joints at each end run about $35 a side and are bolt-in.
Let me share some of my experience and thoughts about dampers.....
The Acura parts department insists that all dampers in inventory made from 2013 to present are the same (despite different part numbers in the computer system.) Dampers made from 2013 and well in to 2016 are definite rattlers. Later production is hit and miss, but generally better. (But not as good as about any other car on the market.) , I actually ordered a front set of dampers using a 2016 SH part number, and instead got a set of 2013/14 dampers. I got a set of really bad rattlers and wasted my cash.
I have contacted Acura in California to obtain dampers of recent production, and they acted totally confused and unhelpful. The local dealer parts department has no idea - they are stuck with the corporate parts system info for damper version number - which is none.
Even the 'TSB Kits' have versions (Spring and damper assembly) - but Acura has not changed the part number. So even if you buy/acquire a TSB kit, you might get an early one with rattler dampers. (Yes, even some of the TSB kits rattled,) Acura will be MOST unhelpful in aiding you in finding a recent production TSB kit.
If you buy a new set of dampers or TSB Kit you MIGHT improve the rattle.
1) Make sure there are factory part number sticker/tags on the damper - instantly return if any damper is without a factory label - it may be a dusty 2013 damper/kit they are trying to get rid of at your expense.
2) If there are stickers, look at the ID's on the damper sticker/tag - that might give a clue about the manufacture date. If you can't determine it is a 2017 manufacture date, instantly return it and save your cash.
3) For wayyyy too many dollars, DSC sport might be able to make up a set of electronic controlled dampers using stock springs - complete with magnetic dampers, controller box, and height sensors. If cash were no object, I would do that and solve both the suspension tuning disaster and the rattles at the same time. (web page is dscsport).
Lastly, importantly (and actually to be done first) - get the car on a lift. Then you or a qualified mechanic you trust look at the suspension and make sure the ball joints/bushings are good.
And for added drama - if the sway bar links are bad, factory parts cost to replace both end link ball joints at each side is on the order of $1000. Then add a lot of labor and an alignment . For just about any other car, new end links with ball joints at each end run about $35 a side and are bolt-in.
Last edited by KenRLX; 02-10-2018 at 09:42 AM.
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hadokenuh (02-19-2018)
02-10-2018, 09:16 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
Two options:
1. follow KenRLX's advice.
2. bite the bullet and get rid of your RLX. It's what I had to do, since Acura completely refused to handle the situation properly,
It wasn't until I switched to the entry level ILX that I was reminded what a real suspension system is supposed to feel like.
1. follow KenRLX's advice.
2. bite the bullet and get rid of your RLX. It's what I had to do, since Acura completely refused to handle the situation properly,
It wasn't until I switched to the entry level ILX that I was reminded what a real suspension system is supposed to feel like.
Last edited by holografique; 02-10-2018 at 09:21 PM.
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hadokenuh (02-19-2018)
02-19-2018, 03:27 PM
#11
Do you know anybody who has done that? Do we know who makes their coilovers?
One fear is that people would not know what they are doing when choosing spring rates and ride height.
For example, for optimal handling on public roads, I do not believe that you should change the ride height.
I also believe that the spring rates for a 2014-2015 model and a 2016-2017 might have to be different to compensate for the different strengths of the rear sway bars.
Another fear without knowing where these items are manufactured is that you'd be installing items that are not the same life expectancy you'd hope for. (I'm saying that without knowing anything about BC, and I apologize for the inference of ignorance.)
One fear is that people would not know what they are doing when choosing spring rates and ride height.
For example, for optimal handling on public roads, I do not believe that you should change the ride height.
I also believe that the spring rates for a 2014-2015 model and a 2016-2017 might have to be different to compensate for the different strengths of the rear sway bars.
Another fear without knowing where these items are manufactured is that you'd be installing items that are not the same life expectancy you'd hope for. (I'm saying that without knowing anything about BC, and I apologize for the inference of ignorance.)
02-19-2018, 03:30 PM
#12
The full assembly was replaced on my car with the '17 build date. Car didn't rattle the first month but it did soon after. You should either leave the car as is and save your money, buy BC coils or the last straw is getting rid of the car. I am getting rid of mine once I pay it down some.
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