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2014 RLX Buy

Old 07-31-2018, 02:26 PM
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2014 RLX Buy

Hello All,
im new to the forums, Iím looking at buying a 2014 Rlx Advance with 10k miles @ 26k. Are there some post I should read in the forums before buying or recommendations you would suggest? This seems like a great deal, what do you think of the price?

The car had one owner, no acccidents, no damage, 5 service records per CarFax. Iíll have my mechanic take a look at the car as well.
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:29 PM
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I should also add this car is not being sold at an Acura dealership. Itís at a Ford dealership, so no real warranty - 30days.
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Old 07-31-2018, 08:57 PM
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P-AWS or SH? From what can I tell from the board there are a number of issues (suspension mainly) pointed out by members with the P-AWS that are not present on the SH.
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Old 07-31-2018, 11:59 PM
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I'm pretty sure it's just the P-AWS.
OP, that's very low miles but try to negotiate for a lower price.

Someone in here mentioned selling a white one with low miles, wife's car!?
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Old 08-01-2018, 04:26 AM
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Itís P-AWS. Negotiated down to $24,999, with additional fees of $995 - reconditioning fee, Document fee $300, Tax - $1518, Tag Fees $295. Total $28,107.

What do you think of the price, should I negotiate down more?

Car is well maintained and clean inside and out, Suspension felt fine but honestly not sure how I should judge it. Dealership is fine with PPI.

An hour after test drive and negotiation I went back to look it over and startup the car. It wouldnít start. This went on for an hour. I got a call on the way home that the battery died and they would replace. I recall reading in the forum someone test driving an RLX at the dealership over 3 months, each time the battery was dead. Attaching pictures of the dashboard which showed ď Electric parking brake problemĒ, ď tire pressure monitor problemĒ. There were two more errors on the dashboard but donít recall what they were. Is this normal if itís not starting, thinking it maybe electrical issue ?
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Old 08-01-2018, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonT44 View Post


Itís P-AWS. Negotiated down to $24,999, with additional fees of $995 - reconditioning fee, Document fee $300, Tax - $1518, Tag Fees $295. Total $28,107.

What do you think of the price, should I negotiate down more?

Car is well maintained and clean inside and out, Suspension felt fine but honestly not sure how I should judge it. Dealership is fine with PPI.

An hour after test drive and negotiation I went back to look it over and startup the car. It wouldnít start. This went on for an hour. I got a call on the way home that the battery died and they would replace. I recall reading in the forum someone test driving an RLX at the dealership over 3 months, each time the battery was dead. Attaching pictures of the dashboard which showed ď Electric parking brake problemĒ, ď tire pressure monitor problemĒ. There were two more errors on the dashboard but donít recall what they were. Is this normal if itís not starting, thinking it maybe electrical issue ?
These two issues are likely tied to the battery being discharged and not putting out enough voltage to get the ECM and various sensors to operate normally. I own a 2014 Advance and have had similar "sensor" issues when my battery needed replacing. Good luck with your negotiations and although the suspension issues on the 2014's are not what you would normally expect from a high end Honda vehicle, they are tolerable to me as most of my driving is on F'ways here in CA. Demosan
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Old 08-01-2018, 03:32 PM
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Yup, classic low battery symptoms. That car's likely been sitting for awhile. New battery should fix all once the codes are cleared.

Make sure the suspension is to your liking and is not clunking, as that was an issue with the 2014 PAWS cars.

Good luck!
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Old 08-02-2018, 03:13 PM
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Thanks, everyone for your input. I'm having my mechanic shop take a look at the car in the morning. Wanted to get opinions on the price, it's an advance with Krell and 10k miles.
Negotiated down to $24,999, with additional fees of $995 - reconditioning fee, Document fee $300, Tax - $1518, Tag Fees $295. Total $28,107.

I think most people in the forums are recommending the 2016 model year, which seems to start around 27k with 50k+ miles. Older model, lower miles - newer model, higher miles?

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks
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Old 08-02-2018, 04:09 PM
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My opinion, and 35 cents will get you a cup of coffee. I'd pass on the 2014. I'd get a 2016 and definitely get the Sport Hybrid Model with the Advanced Package. As long as you're not in a hurry, you'll get a great deal on a car. Forget about the pricing guides, these things are not selling. Everyone wants an Audi, BMW, or Lexus. Don't be afraid to make an offer.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...sModified=true

Check this bad boy out..... https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=210025341

I'd offer $31,000.00 as an opening.

I know you're in Canada, keep looking.
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Old 08-02-2018, 06:21 PM
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Thanks mrrobato, your points are well taken. Definitely not in a hurry to buy, my strong interest is driving by the low mileage and clean history of the car.

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Old 08-04-2018, 11:20 AM
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Trust us, the Sport Hybrid is a better and more entertaining drive. No doubt, though, even the PAWS is a lot of car for the money.
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Old 08-05-2018, 06:12 AM
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Thanks for all your input! It looks like I could add Honda/Acura care 5/100k ($1,300) or 5/120k ($1,600). The coverage seems comprehensive, should I consider this if I move forward with the 2014? Would it cover the known issue most have mentioned?

Also read it's transferable to private party.
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Old 08-05-2018, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonT44 View Post
Thanks for all your input! It looks like I could add Honda/Acura care 5/100k ($1,300) or 5/120k ($1,600). The coverage seems comprehensive, Have others found this to be a good option?

Also read it's transferable to private party.
.
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:16 AM
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Jason. Just a suggestion, if I were in your shoes I would go test drive a brand new Honda Accord 2.0T Touring. I know it is not an RLX, but IMO the new Accord is a tremendous value. The Accord is not selling as well as Honda forecasted, so expect nice discounting. You might pay a bit more for the new Accord, but have a brand new reliable and satisfying car loaded with current tech. Extended warranties are great on used cars, but if you get a car with issues, taking a car back for issues is no fun at all.

Good luck!

Ed
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Old 08-05-2018, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonT44 View Post
Thanks for all your input! It looks like I could add Honda/Acura care 5/100k ($1,300) or 5/120k ($1,600). The coverage seems comprehensive, should I consider this if I move forward with the 2014? Would it cover the known issue most have mentioned?

Also read it's transferable to private party.
That's not a horrid price for AcuraCare, which does provide quite comprehensive coverage including the issues mentioned. To compare pricing, try (if your state allows it) to price at Curry Acura or Saccucci Honda, among other places.
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Old 08-09-2018, 06:52 PM
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Note that some of the issues (slow NAV system, harsh suspension & NVH) are not resolved by any additional warranty or care packages you add. These issues are due to faulty product design and are not addressed by any TSBs released to date.

IMO - unless you've test driven this model and are happy with the way it performs / handle, I would steer very clear from a 2014 model PAWS, speaking from experience having leased one for 3+ years. I would recommend at least trying to find a 2016 model as the suspension was completely revamped to address the issues found in 2014/2015 models. I test drove a 2016 Sport Hybrid and while it's my understanding that the suspension issues were not as bad in the Sport Hybrid vs PAWS, all I can say is it was a night-n-day difference between my 2014 PAWS vs the 2016 SH. The 2016 felt like an Acura, let alone a $60k car, where as my 2014 felt like a cheap buggy unless it was on super smooth roads with zero imperfections.

Here's the quote taken from the Mar 2015 press release on the 2016 model enhancements specific to the suspension:

"Additional Enhancements for 2016 RLX
To improve overall ride and handling quality and reduce noise, vibration and harshness (NVH), the chassis of the 2016 RLX has received multiple tuning refinements. Both the front and rear shock absorbers get an increase in piston rod diameter and the rear stabilizer bar's stiffness is decreased. The front and rear spring rates and shock absorber damping force were all decreased to provide better shock absorption and road surface tracking. Furthermore, the front upper spring/shock mounts and rear bump stops were changed for improved action."


Good luck whatever you decide to do
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Old 08-10-2018, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by holografique View Post
...and the rear stabilizer bar's stiffness is decreased.
Probably as a result of that one time I crossed start/finish backwards. :-)
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Old 08-11-2018, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by George Knighton View Post
Probably as a result of that one time I crossed start/finish backwards. :-)
Hopefully that start/finish line wasn't an intersection
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Old 08-11-2018, 11:19 AM
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I cannot help wondering whether they've changed the programing to disallow the surprising amounts of oversteer and drift that is allowed in my car.
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:51 AM
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OP - Here is my opinion as a current owner of a 2014 PAWS.....but everyone has theirs.

Take a long deep breath and walk away calmly and steadily from that 2014 deal.
The car is wrong, and the price is way wrong. (by about $10k)

Previous advice about an new accord or a 2016+ SH is on point and well founded. Other makes open up even more options for available options, etc.
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:28 PM
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Update

I did a 1 day extended test drive with a Touring Accord, Tech is outstanding but I’m not a fan of the interior and the front end of the car.

I did a 2 day extended test drive with the RLX, having my mechanic PPI and negotiating the price down to $23,499 I purchased the car yesterday. Thanks for all the responses and input. I added a 5 year 100k warranty, purchased from Saccucci Honda. My hope is this gives me some coverage against future issues. Currently, the car is still under factory warranty until Dec 12, 2018.

I’m going to read through the forums and TSB this weekend, but does anyone have suggestions with issues I should address while under factory warranty, even if I’m not currently experiencing at this time (thinking I could explain a symptom to the tech, in hopes they may address )?
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Old 08-17-2018, 05:11 PM
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OP, It sounds like you have improved the deal as well as had a chance to really check out the car and carefully weigh the options - that is a solid path forward.

For me, the biggies are:
Front suspension - at the slightest front suspension rattle, get the TSB-040 done. (Again if needed!) After several swaps, the current set of dampers on mine don't rattle too much.
AC Moan - that was severely annoying, and took Acura years to accept the solution to the problem. But a recent TSB has finally been issued after input from this forum posted years ago. In particular, if it sounds like some kind of a droning moan or low whistle (not a rattle or grinding noise), that is the AC noise problem.
LED headlights - peeling of the reflective coating was reported and Acura did a recall/change. If done outside the warranty, that would run about $4-5k. (Mine looked fine, but did not want to risk the possibility of an expensive repair.)
Mine had the grinding noise in the rear steering actuator problem - listen carefully during low speed turns. check if noises from the rear occur as you steer.
Front sway bar links - closely related to the suspension rattle if they wear out. Keep them routinely checked and replaced if needed under warranty. Mine are still good and I have checked them quite closely. I mention this because dealer pricing for new front sway bar end link ball joints and installation is in the area of $2k. (Yes, $2k.) For just about any other make of car, the parts cost would be under $100 and could easily be done in the driveway.
Fuel pump ticking - that is annoying as heck. There is a TSB issued that replaces the fuel pump actuator lever. If you hear a ticking sound at near idle and related to engine RPM, it is likely that fuel pump. (The injectors also can make a ticking noise, but this is louder.)

Other items - not a complete list or in particular priority:
Not mentioned very often, but IMO, the tranny fluid should be changed soon. Not now, but within 5-10k miles. I changed mine at about 50k, and found more brown in the fluid than expected as well as the normal black powder suspended in the fluid from the clutch plates. It seemed to me that the tranny shifted better, but the change was not dramatic. It is just good insurance to keep the fluid and friction modifiers freshened. It is a rather straightforward process - a drain plug and a long funnel for the refill.
Brake fluid - changing out the fluid after 4-5 years is good practice no matter what vehicle make.

Best of Luck with the new ride!!

Last edited by KenRLX; 08-17-2018 at 05:26 PM.
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Old 08-18-2018, 10:20 PM
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Congrats on the purchase. You put a lot of work into making sure the car is OK. KenRLX offers sound advice above. Welcome to the family!
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Old 09-19-2018, 09:52 AM
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Car in for service today, they are replacing the paws actuators, software update and trans flush to cure the judder. Will also do a software update for the audio system. Service tech mentioned krell has fail-safe to shut down when music is too loud for too long. Anyone experience this?
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