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i didn’t Pay destination fees and they went to pick it up in another state (40 miles).
I believe everybody pays most or all of the $995 destination fee. That is the fee Acura charges the dealer (who then passes it on to the buyer) to transport the car from the factory to the dealer.
I believe everybody pays most or all of the $995 destination fee. That is the fee Acura charges the dealer (who then passes it on to the buyer) to transport the car from the factory to the dealer.
i didnt! 😉
my dealer got the car from another dealer and whatever they worked out equated to me getting no destination fees remote start at no extra, and then on top of that getting the free all weather mats, cargo tray and cover. they worked for and earned my business that’s for sure!
Don’t worry about offending them. I was in a profession where we developed a thick skin: screw what the ‘customers’ say, do what you need to do according to management positions. You want to piss off the next ‘up’, or the boss who signs your check, gives you work assignments, and weighs-in on your future advancement? Car salesmen are on one side, you are on the other.
Go with a wingman who can do math. Ask about each line item, have your wife/friend/significant other checking as you go. This is not a conversation between friends; it is you, who negotiates car deals once every few years, and them who negotiates car deals once every few hours.
Did they sneak in any ADP (Additional Dealer Profit)? Or shit like VIN engraving or a ‘special’ paint wax? Know that these people have tried and true products, methods, and skilled people. Do your homework, and refuse anything that is sprung on you by the Finance Guy; work this out with your wingman, so he/she can see it coming, because in the moment, a $500 wax job with full Zombi Protection might be like, ‘yeah, I need that, I’ll be protected from the Apocalypse.’
“Sincerity - if you can fake that, you've got it made.”. George Burns, among many.
dang thank you sir!
I will definitely see what’s up.
my dealer got the car from another dealer and whatever they worked out equated to me getting no destination fees remote start at no extra, and then on top of that getting the free all weather mats, cargo tray and cover. they worked for and earned my business that’s for sure!
WHAT. How’d you do that?? How much did you pay? Gahhh I want remote start and all that stuff
WHAT. How’d you do that?? How much did you pay? Gahhh I want remote start and all that stuff
45999 for the car with all the adds ins. Then I of course got the loyalty, trade in and all that stuff. With taxes, tags and all that stuff (no destination as I said), basically 44K before trade in and additional down.
They got the car from another dealer on a day when I was going to buy it from a more local dealer, the sales manager wanted to know what it would take and I gave him an opportunity to give me a best offer. He sent someone to pick the car up and it showed up with remote start which he didn’t charge me for. It was an early Christmas present 😂
but negotating and visiting 5 dealers and basically taking the best offer. It pained me to tell my local guy that I was buying elsewhere. I think he thought I was bluffing. His loss.
I have three dealers and two are owned by the same group - so essentially no competition. I might try the Chicago area. Kind of far but might be worth it.
So I’m going to try and make it an even 49500 but does the taxes and fees add up to over 5000? Thanks for you help guys. I live in New Jersey by the way
Car price 44,300
Including tax and fees 49755
I always tell dealers to give me the out the door price....I don't care what they want to charge me for all of the other stuff....just tell me what it takes to have the keys. I hate playing the "oh yeah....and then we have the bullshit fee" after they give a number. After we work that number down, then I start asking for accessories and service deals. Still a bit early to do much dealing so will wait until fall or next spring.
I always tell dealers to give me the out the door price....I don't care what they want to charge me for all of the other stuff....just tell me what it takes to have the keys. I hate playing the "oh yeah....and then we have the bullshit fee" after they give a number. After we work that number down, then I start asking for accessories and service deals. Still a bit early to do much dealing so will wait until fall or next spring.
yep and never tell them you down payment or what your target payment is. I just tell them that’s irrelevant, I want the best price for the car and best trade in and then I’ll figure out what my down payment it is because the only significance that has is my finances amount and the monthly payment. It has no bearing on anything else. Usually shuts down any of the numbers swapping tricks they have.
yep and never tell them you down payment or what your target payment is. I just tell them that’s irrelevant, I want the best price for the car and best trade in and then I’ll figure out what my down payment it is because the only significance that has is my finances amount and the monthly payment. It has no bearing on anything else. Usually shuts down any of the numbers swapping tricks they have.
Me too. Total car price (without sales tax) total trade value, best interest rates for excellent credit. I can figure out the sales tax. I can shop rates, I can use a car loan calculator. I then decide what number fits into my monthly budget the way I want, and come up with the difference.
The dealerships hate that because when I get those numbers from them, I walk. I say ‘you’ll hold these numbers for three days?’ If they are honest numbers, they say yes, if they are BS numbers, they say no. I insist that the purchase price is not dependent upon the trade in, or the interest rate. Sometimes the interest rate is required, since there is sometimes trunk money from Honda finance. In which case I just tell the salesman that that is just one more bit of math for me to do. (By this time the manager is there, and he makes a point of saying that no car purchase, they don’t take my car. I say, ‘of course, absolutely’)
Always do your own math. Bring a wingman with you when you go to sign papers, the finance guy is their best closer. Inspect the car before you sign anything.
Me too. Total car price (without sales tax) total trade value, best interest rates for excellent credit. I can figure out the sales tax. I can shop rates, I can use a car loan calculator. I then decide what number fits into my monthly budget the way I want, and come up with the difference.
The dealerships hate that because when I get those numbers from them, I walk. I say ‘you’ll hold these numbers for three days?’ If they are honest numbers, they say yes, if they are BS numbers, they say no. I insist that the purchase price is not dependent upon the trade in, or the interest rate. Sometimes the interest rate is required, since there is sometimes trunk money from Honda finance. In which case I just tell the salesman that that is just one more bit of math for me to do. (By this time the manager is there, and he makes a point of saying that no car purchase, they don’t take my car. I say, ‘of course, absolutely’)
Always do your own math. Bring a wingman with you when you go to sign papers, the finance guy is their best closer. Inspect the car before you sign anything.
yeah definitely incentives for dealers on acura finance right now. 2.9% and my credit score was excellent so it was an easy decision for them. I had options to extend to 63 or 66 months at a 3.19 but that wasn’t necessary.
I think most most people don’t know to ask these types of questions so I’m glad this bread exists.
Me too. Total car price (without sales tax) total trade value, best interest rates for excellent credit. I can figure out the sales tax. I can shop rates, I can use a car loan calculator. I then decide what number fits into my monthly budget the way I want, and come up with the difference.
The dealerships hate that because when I get those numbers from them, I walk. I say ‘you’ll hold these numbers for three days?’ If they are honest numbers, they say yes, if they are BS numbers, they say no. I insist that the purchase price is not dependent upon the trade in, or the interest rate. Sometimes the interest rate is required, since there is sometimes trunk money from Honda finance. In which case I just tell the salesman that that is just one more bit of math for me to do. (By this time the manager is there, and he makes a point of saying that no car purchase, they don’t take my car. I say, ‘of course, absolutely’)
Always do your own math. Bring a wingman with you when you go to sign papers, the finance guy is their best closer. Inspect the car before you sign anything.
It's been a long time since I've done dealer financing for purchase. What fees should I expect in this process from the dealer? My bank charges a flat $75.00 origination fee. I was quoted a $100 doc fee as part of the dealer purchase. I can only get my bank to 4% so I should take advantage of the Acura 1.9 or 2.9%.
It's been a long time since I've done dealer financing for purchase. What fees should I expect in this process from the dealer? My bank charges a flat $75.00 origination fee. I was quoted a $100 doc fee as part of the dealer purchase. I can only get my bank to 4% so I should take advantage of the Acura 1.9 or 2.9%.
That is why you pre-shop. If you are a military family, USAA should be looked at. Look at Pen Fed credit union, find out application fees and other stuff up front. Write it all down on a sheet of paper and have it with you.
You our are not going to do better than Acura’s 1.9, but you need to run it through an auto loan calculator and add fees to the total interest paid, and then compare.
That is why you pre-shop. If you are a military family, USAA should be looked at. Look at Pen Fed credit union, find out application fees and other stuff up front. Write it all down on a sheet of paper and have it with you.
You our are not going to do better than Acura’s 1.9, but you need to run it through an auto loan calculator and add fees to the total interest paid, and then compare.
Madd Dog, I owe you a beer. I never thought to use USAA. I got a better rate than Acura for 60 months with no prepayment penalty! Thank you, sir.
Yo here’s a little update on that 44,300 and 49755 out the door price quote I got.
I went to the dealer in person. Asked for the guy and the manager.
Talked about the break down of the price
now this is what I got from one of you guys Car: $44,300.00
Tax (6.625%): $ 2,934.88
4 yr registration: $ 283.00
Title: $ 55.00
Doc Fees: $ 299.00
Total $47,871.88
In the beginning I asked about colors and difference of the aspec and advanced.... I actually knew more than he did even with colors.. the heck?
so I asked what the difference was about. Why such a huge difference.
They told me because I can’t use the conquest program. which is 1000 discount ..
okay... soo the car you’re quoting is actuAlly 45,300 then?
No it’s part of a discount with the fees.
What?
I thought the conquest was a discount for the car price?
Yes
What? So you’re actually trying to sell me the car for 45,300 when i was quoted 44,300 after I gave you all the details of what car I own and we’ve been talking for the past couple days?
Oh yeah my manger made a mistake.
So you’re not going to honor the quote?
I’m not sure but if you put a 500 dollar deposit I can lock a price in so you don’t lose the discount
Told them busy, can’t waste time, walked out
guess i gotta start browsing more.. freaking dealerships man...
my dealer got the car from another dealer and whatever they worked out equated to me getting no destination fees remote start at no extra, and then on top of that getting the free all weather mats, cargo tray and cover. they worked for and earned my business that’s for sure!
YES, everyone pays destination of $995! Look at your Window Sticker?? Do you have it? IF not, look up the pricing on the Acura web site. The MSRP is the TOTAL cost of the RDX....INCLUDING Dest. fee! The dealer
has to pay that...I've seen many Invoices to the dealers....the Dest. Charge is right on there. But, again, IT'S PART OF THE TOTAL COST....OR THE MSRP.
Now, IF the dealer had to go get it from another dealer that wasn't too far away...then yes, maybe they won't charge you for that....but, if it's more than, oh say, 100 miles, they will
charge. I've had my dealer do dealer trades within 30 miles or so.....and no exta charge for that.
But, don't mix apples and oranges here. Delivery Destination Fee is $995 and we all pay that. As someone already said here....that is what the dealer pays Acura to get the car
from the factory to their dealership.
Last edited by Colorado Guy AF Ret.; 07-08-2018 at 07:01 PM.
YES, everyone pays destination of $995! Look at your Window Sticker?? Do you have it? IF not, look up the pricing on the Acura web site. The MSRP is the TOTAL cost of the RDX....INCLUDING Dest. fee! The dealer
has to pay that...I've seen many Invoices to the dealers....the Dest. Charge is right on there. But, again, IT'S PART OF THE TOTAL COST....OR THE MSRP.
Now, IF the dealer had to go get it from another dealer that wasn't too far away...then yes, maybe they won't charge you for that....but, if it's more than, oh say, 100 miles, they will
charge. I've had my dealer do dealer trades within 30 miles or so.....and no exta charge for that.
But, don't mix apples and oranges here. Delivery Destination Fee is $995 and we all pay that. As someone already said here....that is what the dealer pays Acura to get the car
from the factory to their dealership.
im telling you I did not pay it. My dealer got the car from another dealer not in their network and whatever they worked out did not translate to mecpayong desirination fees.
I just looked at my '17's sales contract and the "Freight Charge" line item says "N/A" -- but who's to say they didn't just take the cost of shipping the car and padding it into the sales price...just not calling it "freight charge?" I seem to remember my questioning why it says "N/A," but don't remember the explanation.
Several things I've read say that that cost is always passed on to the customer.
TrueCar: "When you buy a new car, you should expect to pay a destination or freight fee. This is what the manufacturer charges the dealer to ship a new car onto the dealership lot. This is a fixed cost for the dealer and is always passed on to the customer."
Autotrader: "Let's get the bad news out of the way first: That destination charge listed on every new car's window sticker is something you'll have to pay. According to U.S. law, car delivery -- transporting the vehicle from port or assembly plant to dealer showroom -- is always listed as a separate line item on a new-car window sticker. Automakers may use different names to describe it, but it always works the same way, with buyers covering the cost."
KBB: "The fee is usually in the neighborhood of $400 — $800 per vehicle and no amount of negotiating will make it go away."
KBB (same article): "It's Government Mandated. The destination fee should be regarded as yet another cost of doing new car business. There are several other fees that manufacturers must bake into the price of their new cars and trucks, but the U.S. government has required this fee be itemized on the sticker based on the fact that it is a direct cost, above and beyond the 'overhead' companies must incur in bringing a product to market."
I just looked at my '17's sales contract and the "Freight Charge" line item says "N/A" -- but who's to say they didn't just take the cost of shipping the car and padding it into the sales price...just not calling it "freight charge?" I seem to remember my questioning why it says "N/A," but don't remember the explanation.
Several things I've read say that that cost is always passed on to the customer.
TrueCar: "When you buy a new car, you should expect to pay a destination or freight fee. This is what the manufacturer charges the dealer to ship a new car onto the dealership lot. This is a fixed cost for the dealer and is always passed on to the customer."
Autotrader: "Let's get the bad news out of the way first: That destination charge listed on every new car's window sticker is something you'll have to pay. According to U.S. law, car delivery -- transporting the vehicle from port or assembly plant to dealer showroom -- is always listed as a separate line item on a new-car window sticker. Automakers may use different names to describe it, but it always works the same way, with buyers covering the cost."
KBB: "The fee is usually in the neighborhood of $400 — $800 per vehicle and no amount of negotiating will make it go away."
KBB (same article): "It's Government Mandated. The destination fee should be regarded as yet another cost of doing new car business. There are several other fees that manufacturers must bake into the price of their new cars and trucks, but the U.S. government has required this fee be itemized on the sticker based on the fact that it is a direct cost, above and beyond the 'overhead' companies must incur in bringing a product to market."
Interpret all this as you wish...
ill interpret it as the “sticker” of my car being the “dealer asking price” but me only playing $38097 after fees, discounts and trade in.
the sticker lists destination. It also lists floor mats at $595 and a remote start at $695 that I didn’t pay for.
6 in one....half dozen in the other....but at the end of the day, my “sale” price was less than any sticker with destination and ADP.
I just looked at my '17's sales contract and the "Freight Charge" line item says "N/A" -- but who's to say they didn't just take the cost of shipping the car and padding it into the sales price...just not calling it "freight charge?" I seem to remember my questioning why it says "N/A," but don't remember the explanation.
Several things I've read say that that cost is always passed on to the customer.
TrueCar: "When you buy a new car, you should expect to pay a destination or freight fee. This is what the manufacturer charges the dealer to ship a new car onto the dealership lot. This is a fixed cost for the dealer and is always passed on to the customer."
Autotrader: "Let's get the bad news out of the way first: That destination charge listed on every new car's window sticker is something you'll have to pay. According to U.S. law, car delivery -- transporting the vehicle from port or assembly plant to dealer showroom -- is always listed as a separate line item on a new-car window sticker. Automakers may use different names to describe it, but it always works the same way, with buyers covering the cost."
KBB: "The fee is usually in the neighborhood of $400 — $800 per vehicle and no amount of negotiating will make it go away."
KBB (same article): "It's Government Mandated. The destination fee should be regarded as yet another cost of doing new car business. There are several other fees that manufacturers must bake into the price of their new cars and trucks, but the U.S. government has required this fee be itemized on the sticker based on the fact that it is a direct cost, above and beyond the 'overhead' companies must incur in bringing a product to market."
Interpret all this as you wish...
I have seen this too - it only has to be itemized on the window sticker, all the dealer generated forms, contracts, agreements can be created any way the dealer wants 😄
My deal just got a little better and the first time this has ever happened in the 40 plus years of buying vehicles.
We picked up our plates Saturday and when we opened them up we had a check for $18 with the explanation that it was for TTNL Diff over payment.
So many folks getting their panties in a knot over line item amounts, paid or not paid. It's the NET amount of the deal that counts. What debt you sign for or what the check amount is written for. Early adopters always pay a bit more for most hot new items, price to be paid for being first on your block with a new item.
Caveat Emptor !
My deal just got a little better and the first time this has ever happened in the 40 plus years of buying vehicles.
We picked up our plates Saturday and when we opened them up we had a check for $18 with the explanation that it was for TTNL Diff over payment.
So many folks getting their panties in a knot over line item amounts, paid or not paid. It's the NET amount of the deal that counts. What debt you sign for or what the check amount is written for. Early adopters always pay a bit more for most hot new items, price to be paid for being first on your block with a new item.
Caveat Emptor !
You don't seem to get it. Just because it's not listed as a line item doesn't mean you didn't "pay for it".
It is listed on the "Sticker" but not on my sales contract. Neither are the dealers utilities, property taxes, salaries etc but make no mistake, you are paying all fixed and variable expenses incurred by the dealer. Business 101.
You don't seem to get it. Just because it's not listed as a line item doesn't mean you didn't "pay for it".
It is listed on the "Sticker" but not on my sales contract. Neither are the dealers utilities, property taxes, salaries etc but make no mistake, you are paying all fixed and variable expenses incurred by the dealer. Business 101.
Oh, I get it. After your mini rant, I just thought I'd needle you a little.
If you read (or re-read) my post you would see that what you just said ("Just because it's not listed as a line item doesn't mean you didn't 'pay for it') was exactly and obviously my point. And what was all that explanatory stuff from industry press I included...mince meat?
On a forum where you are comparing prices for cars sold in different states it is more difficult to compare....everyone's state taxes and fees may be different. When we shop for cars I will contact a couple of dealers and give them the details of the car I want and then insist that they only tell me the out the door price. This includes everything. Since all of the dealers are in the same state the fees and taxes are the same, so I don't care if dealer A charges something different or more/less than dealer B. Dealers have a million ways to hide their fees/charges but I don't care. It is just what do I pay at the end that I am concerned with. So unless you are comparing with different states then just look at the bottom line and don't worry about what they call it or where they hide it.
Oh, I get it. After your mini rant, I just thought I'd needle you a little.
If you read (or re-read) my post you would see that what you just said ("Just because it's not listed as a line item doesn't mean you didn't 'pay for it') was exactly and obviously my point. And what was all that explanatory stuff from industry press I included...mince meat?
I'm sorry but here is exactly what you said. "I seem to remember my questioning why it says "N/A," but don't remember the explanation."
On a forum where you are comparing prices for cars sold in different states it is more difficult to compare....everyone's state taxes and fees may be different. When we shop for cars I will contact a couple of dealers and give them the details of the car I want and then insist that they only tell me the out the door price. This includes everything. Since all of the dealers are in the same state the fees and taxes are the same, so I don't care if dealer A charges something different or more/less than dealer B. Dealers have a million ways to hide their fees/charges but I don't care. It is just what do I pay at the end that I am concerned with. So unless you are comparing with different states then just look at the bottom line and don't worry about what they call it or where they hide it.
Makes sense to me. I'm in a tri-state area (well, DC isn't a state, but anyway...), so Virginia Acura dealerships -- of which there are several -- would do a sale according to the leeway and constraints of Virginia law and regulations. But, there's some sort of agreement between MD and VA so that a VA dealership would process the MD TTL stuff.
Last edited by birdonamission; 07-09-2018 at 07:21 AM.
Guys, here is a kicker. Suppose you were to buy an Acura at Acura Columbus, in West Dublin, Ohio. A mere 18 miles from the factory and still have to pay the full $995. Ouch!
I'm sorry but here is exactly what you said. "I seem to remember my questioning why it says "N/A," but don't remember the explanation."
READ THE WHOLE THING IN CONTEXT, please. I was questioning why it said "N/A" when I knew full well that destination charges are typically non-negotiable. I just don't remember their explanation (or I don't want to remember what it was...lol).
I'm pretty sure I paid the $995, or whatever freight was in August 2016, some kind of way. Those finance people are "creative" in that way.
Guys, here is a kicker. Suppose you were to buy an Acura at Acura Columbus, in West Dublin, Ohio. A mere 18 miles from the factory and still have to pay the full $995. Ouch!
I'd love to be the fly on the wall when a customer says, "So I just live up the road here in East Liberty, off of SR 347 -- I don't have to pay freight, do I?" "Well, yeah - it's costs ~$1,000 to get your car to the Dublin dealership" (36 miles away)...
Edit: "36 MINUTES" and 34.6 miles away, per Google Maps...
Last edited by birdonamission; 07-09-2018 at 07:52 AM.
And that is why the ONLY number that matters is the net 'out the door' price. Anything, and everything, else is BS.
This ^^^. Decide the absolute maximum "out the door" price you're willing to fork over...be strong and unwavering about your bottom line and stick to it.
And for Pete's sake, don't be in any rush. Getting what you want out of a deal takes a lot of both time and patience. If you have several dealerships in the area, shop your business around. Make someone earn it.
Last edited by birdonamission; 07-09-2018 at 08:35 AM.
Speaking of Virginia, I looked up dealers there for kicks and one of them had a really large number of ‘19 RDX. I was shocked. Here we have 3 dealerships with maybe 8 vehicles between them.
TrueCar shows sales well above MSRP here. Those in the VA area are fortunate and my guess is better able to deal.
Speaking of Virginia, I looked up dealers there for kicks and one of them had a really large number of ‘19 RDX. I was shocked. Here we have 3 dealerships with maybe 8 vehicles between them.
TrueCar shows sales well above MSRP here. Those in the VA area are fortunate and my guess is better able to deal.
This area has a lot of affluence (many parts of Maryland, DC, Northern Virginia - including between Washington and Baltimore) so I guess car dealerships do really well overall in terms of volume and getting cars off lots with ease. (And you can see this in the HORRIBLE, NIGHTMARISH traffic absolutely everywhere.) So, not surprised about the high allocations that flow into this area.
This doesn't mean there aren't deals to be made because we (people in general) are a finicky lot. But you have to know the art of the deal and not go around looking like red meat ready to be devoured by the trained professionals whose exact purpose in life is to part you and your benjamins and create that imbalance between their check book and yours in tilted in their favor.
My general way is to shop my business to several dealerships with very specific "requirements" in regards to options and let them have at it. I want to instigate a race to the bottom. Who doesn't like an old fashioned, free-for-all price war! They may well say, "Next!" (sucker), but I totally don't care. I have too many options, including other brands OR keeping my paid-off '17 for a while longer. I'm too jaded to care about games people want to play.
Is it just me or does anyone else think it’s bs when they tell you, “you have to put a 500 deposit to lock in the price”
then when you say no they start dropping the deposit and find ways to get something out of you..
The price this dealer has provided is full retail. And the “dealer locate fee”? Seriously? I would try some alternate methods...can’t hurt. Check out Costco Auto Purchasing program. Your Aunt doesn’t have to be a member to do the research. If you give it a try and the dealer contacts you (hopefully with a better offer), a $50 membership might be worth getting for the extra savings. There’s also USAA and there may be others.
Thanks for all the advice. Here what i just found at Costco Auto Program. I live in Fishers Indiana.
If you don’t mind my asking...where you at?
If you try Costco...let me know how it turns out. I’m holding off for a few months in hopes the dealers get real.
Thankyou for all the advice! Here what i just found.
07-06-2018, 05:54 PM
