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I added a class II 2" hidden hitch to my 1st Gen RDX; but, I still keep my bike rack weight within the Class I limits (150lbs tongue/1500lbs tow). I use my 4-bike 2" platform rack on my RDX and I only put two bike close to the hatch (120lbs of ebikes). 1st Gen tongue weight is limited to 150lbs and the hitch limit goes down as:
- total passengers increase above 2
- you add more gear to the cargo area
- you increase the length of the rack away from the rear of the RDX
I'm already kinda pushing the limits with my set-up. I always switch the 4 bike rack to my MDX when I need to add a +2 people or bikes.
The only way I can see you taking 5 bikes safely with the RDX is with a trailer or mounting 3 on the roof/2 on the hitch.
You can't install that which doesn't exist. I'm not aware of a Class III ( 2" ) hitch for 2019 RDX and I'm not holding my breath; I don't think there is room. The major manufacturers of hitches are Curt and Draw-Tite. U-Haul sells Draw-Tite hitches. ( Curt is probably the OEM manufacturer for Honda/Acura ). Neither Curt nor Draw-Tite lists aftermarket hitches at this time. In the future they will probably produce a Class II hitch ( 1-1/4" ) that will hang down below the bumper shroud. This is the case for the current CRV.
Class I and II hitches are more limited in their tongue weight capacity than Class III ( 2" ) hitches, as mrgold35 notes. Thule doesn't recommend using their 4-bike platform bike racks with a 1-1/4 inch hitch.
If you really need to carry that much gear, consider a "cross-bars on wheels" trailer, like the ones made by Yakima or Malone. I got a Yakima Rack and Roll trailer for the family fleet of Kayaks a few years ago, and I wondered why the heck I waited so long.
Or use a roof rack. Thule has a fit for the OEM 2019 RDX roof rails, and the new aerobars are a lot nicer than the old square bars.
You can't install that which doesn't exist. I'm not aware of a Class III ( 2" ) hitch for 2019 RDX and I'm not holding my breath; I don't think there is room. The major manufacturers of hitches are Curt and Draw-Tite. U-Haul sells Draw-Tite hitches. ( Curt is probably the OEM manufacturer for Honda/Acura ). Neither Curt nor Draw-Tite lists aftermarket hitches at this time. In the future they will probably produce a Class II hitch ( 1-1/4" ) that will hang down below the bumper shroud. This is the case for the current CRV.
Class I and II hitches are more limited in their tongue weight capacity than Class III ( 2" ) hitches, as mrgold35 notes. Thule doesn't recommend using their 4-bike platform bike racks with a 1-1/4 inch hitch.
If you really need to carry that much gear, consider a "cross-bars on wheels" trailer, like the ones made by Yakima or Malone. I got a Yakima Rack and Roll trailer for the family fleet of Kayaks a few years ago, and I wondered why the heck I waited so long.
Or use a roof rack. Thule has a fit for the OEM 2019 RDX roof rails, and the new aerobars are a lot nicer than the old square bars.
I guess I'm missing the point of using a Class III 2" hitch on the RDX over a Class II 2"? I went Class II hitch on my RDX to switch my bike rack easily between my RDX and MDX without having add an extension to up-convert from 1.25". I don't think I can now tow 3500 lbs in my RDX now because of my class II hitch. The only reason I can think of by going with the Class III hitch is you are planning to exceed the recommended tongue and weight restrictions. No big deal to me, just wondering.
I guess I'm missing the point of using a Class III 2" hitch on the RDX over a Class II 2"? I went Class II hitch on my RDX to switch my bike rack easily between my RDX and MDX without having add an extension to up-convert from 1.25". I don't think I can now tow 3500 lbs in my RDX now because of my class II hitch. The only reason I can think of by going with the Class III hitch is you are planning to exceed the recommended tongue and weight restrictions. No big deal to me, just wondering.
AFAIK Class II hitches are usually 1-1/4", not 2". But my 2019 RDX is the first time I've ever had a 1-1/4" hitch. Until now, I've always sneered at the pathetic little 1-1/4" hitches nearly scraping the pavement under minivans. Oh well. I can still sneer at the sliding doors.
Class II is just a slightly beefier version of 1-1/4" hitch. I think there can be some funkiness about hitch pin position that can create problems between Class II attachments and Class I hitches. Largely because Class I hitches are so lightweight they really can't take much stress. For instance, I think platforms with 1-1/4" tubes are usually rated for Class II only. But again, I'm new to this wimpy-size 1-1/4" thing. All my other vehicles have 2" Class III hitches. ( Except my daughter's new CRV, which is naked in back ).
I don’t get how if the RDX is designed for a class 1 hitch, yet they can make class 3 hitches, even tho they are supported by the same spots in the frame for bolting it to the vehicle. What if a big factor in the reason they did class 1 is that the frame can not handle more then 150 tongue weight?? I really wish the RDX could pull more then 1500 lbs and more then 150lb tongue weight. If the dealer ever finds out you have pulled more then 1500 lbs you will void your transmission warranty and possibly other parts. But if you just want it for a 2 inch bike rack I don’t see an issue, except that any aftermarket mount will have to come out below the plastic bumper putting it lower to the ground, for a hitch that’s already mounted low, I would think there is no doubt you will have dragging issues with almost any 2 inch bike rack at that point. Anyways here is my rocky mounts 1.25 inch platform rack, I love it I prefer the hidden hitch that the factory provides. I have had no problems dragging even leaving the steep ramp to get out of the parking garage.
If you read the fine print, the hitch rating is limited to the lesser of the vehicle's tow rating or the rating of the hitch itself.
We don't know if the low rating for the RDX's OEM hitch is due to wimpy attachment points, or limitations of the mechanical systems of the vehicle, or both.
I would view the 2" hitch as a convenience for attaching lightweight 2" accessories. I wouldn't load it up any more than I would the 1-1/4 inch hitch. YMMV
Does anyone have the draw tite hitch installed? Curious to see some more pics of how it looks other than the one picture provided in the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Curt confirmed they are working on a hitch for the RDX as well, but still in design phase with no eta. I asked if it would be a hidden cross tube and they couldn’t confirm yet.
Does anyone have the draw tite hitch installed? Curious to see some more pics of how it looks other than the one picture provided in the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Curt confirmed they are working on a hitch for the RDX as well, but still in design phase with no eta. I asked if it would be a hidden cross tube and they couldn’t confirm yet.
I got it installed. Sticks out a little more than I'd like... Around 6 inches.
Nothing beats the look of the oem hitch, too bad they don’t offer it a 2in version. It is a bummer that the Draw Tite sticks out so far, but if you need a 2in that’s the only way to go... I don’t plan to pull anything, and I just use the hitch for my bike rack, so I may settle for the oem and will have to replace my 2in bike rack.
Based on how little clearance is available with the spare tire down there, im guessing other 3rd party hitches that come out are going to have visible cross tubes as well.
Wow that sticks out more than I thought... no wonder the only pic draw-tite gave was from straight in the rear.
Not sure what to do now as I was considering OEM or that class 3 draw-tite, but don’t love the look.
I could deal with a Class II hitch, but the OEM class I scares me, because half the reason I want a hitch is for emergency recovery which the class 1 is too weak for (I like to be prepared as have been there before) and the other half is to tow a 700 lbs trailer and 700 lbs ATV, which is just below the limit.
Anyone have more faith in the OEM hitch than I do?
I went with the OEM, looks the best, especially on the ASpec. For two bikes, there is no better rack then the 1UP USA rack. I have an extension to add 2nd bike, which bolts on in 1 minute.
Wow that sticks out more than I thought... no wonder the only pic draw-tite gave was from straight in the rear.
Not sure what to do now as I was considering OEM or that class 3 draw-tite, but don’t love the look.
I could deal with a Class II hitch, but the OEM class I scares me, because half the reason I want a hitch is for emergency recovery which the class 1 is too weak for (I like to be prepared as have been there before) and the other half is to tow a 700 lbs trailer and 700 lbs ATV, which is just below the limit.
Anyone have more faith in the OEM hitch than I do?
I am not liking the aftermarket hitch either. For the OEM hitch, do you have to cut any part of the bumper off for the base/A-Spec models? Thinking of getting rid of my Tacoma & Miata for one single SUV.
Would the RDX tow a jetski/trailer with a combined weight of 1200lbs fine?
Wow that sticks out more than I thought... no wonder the only pic draw-tite gave was from straight in the rear.
Not sure what to do now as I was considering OEM or that class 3 draw-tite, but don’t love the look.
I could deal with a Class II hitch, but the OEM class I scares me, because half the reason I want a hitch is for emergency recovery which the class 1 is too weak for (I like to be prepared as have been there before) and the other half is to tow a 700 lbs trailer and 700 lbs ATV, which is just below the limit.
Anyone have more faith in the OEM hitch than I do?
A few months ago I pulled my daughter's CRV out of the ditch with the dainty little tow eye under its back end. ( An old MDX was the tow vehicle ). I can't imagine the Class I OEM hitch attached to a 2019 RDX would be any less robust than that.
But as always, it depends on how you use the thing. If you pull on it at a funny angle, you might tweak it.
I am completely set up for 2” hitch attachments so I really wanted the 2” Drawtite to work out. The picture on their instructions does not look too bad. I took the plunge and ordered it and installed it today on our 2020 RDX. I am pretty picky about things and just can’t get over how far it sticks out and how low it is below the rear fascia. I also never found a place to move my foot to make the hands free rear door opener work. I always felt I would hit my shins on the hitch cross tube. It’s going to be returned and replaced with the Acura hitch and I will need to deal with converting my trailer hitch, bike rack, and hitch carrier to 1.25”.
Trailer is easy, just get a 1-1/4" ball mount and the appropriate size trailer ball. Or an all-in-one welded unit if the rise is OK. This should cost $20-$30.
Since the trailer is probably the heaviest load you will deal with, and the consequences of hitch failure would be the highest, don't mess around with an adapter for this. Not worth it.
Bike rack may be OK with 1-1/4" to 2" adapter, unless it's a long platform rack.
Hitch carrier is a problem, for the reason cited by @REALM. It may be better to get a new hitch carrier that is designed for 1-1/4", but be advised the weight capacity won't be very high. If you use an adapter, keep a close eye on the hitch receiver. It may bend or crack if you overload it.
I'm using a straight 6" long 1-1/4" to 2" adapter for a lightweight 2-bike platform rack. It doesn't add much length, so I'm not too worried about tongue weight. ( More properly, tongue torque ). But I don't plan to use my long, heavy 4-bike platform on it. Fortunately, I still have other vehicles with 2" Class III hitches. For now.
that would be nice. the dealer tried to install the oem, but didn't know it needed the cover (Advance), so no go.
And they forgot to secure the spare tire after lowering...I had to pull over on the 101 (freeway) and secure myself...
that would be nice. the dealer tried to install the oem, but didn't know it needed the cover (Advance), so no go.
And they forgot to secure the spare tire after lowering...I had to pull over on the 101 (freeway) and secure myself...
This is exactly why I installed it myself, I do not like the dealer touching and messing up my car
I went with the OEM, looks the best, especially on the ASpec. For two bikes, there is no better rack then the 1UP USA rack. I have an extension to add 2nd bike, which bolts on in 1 minute.
Hey Phil. I am ordering the OEM hitch and will be installing it myself as soon as I get it, did you DIY it or paid someone to install?
My other question is the 1up rack....I mostly see the silver color but I think I will go with black. As far as I can tell, they are similar racks......the black ones are just powder coated. Since you’ve had this rack for a while now, any regrets not going with black? I have the same color as yours 👍
10-14-2018, 06:43 AM
I prefer the hidden hitch that the factory provides. I have had no problems dragging even leaving the steep ramp to get out of the parking garage.
