When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've been reading a researching my problems with my clutch and I can't find an answer. I think I am going to replace the CMC and see what happens. I replaced the slave and bled it but no luck.
My car has 155k not sure if the clutch is original or not.
The clutch it self is fine never slips and has good bite, but it started as being hard to shift into second gear and just keeps getting worse. I pretty much have to jam it into 1st, 2nd and fifth. Reverse grinds most of the time, and in first with the clutch fully pressed my car idles hard and actually rolls forward.
Guess it's obvious my clutch isn't fully disengauging but I thought I can get some input.
Thanks
Sounds like the same issues I and others had with the factory clutch over time. Replaced mine at about 100k and it fixed those lockout issues I was having going into second gear, only happened when I would try to shift at or near redline though.
Yeah redline in second is how mine started, and just keep getting worse. So most changed out the clutch? I'm going to try and do the CMC when I get from work if I have time. And I'll update and let you guys know how it went.
I bought the CMC, but don't have time today , maybe tomorrow but the clutch will probably get done next weekend I guess. Got a lot of issues with the car rn. Oil consumption, clutch and shaking at higher speeds. Honestly Cars a headache. Also changed my oil today and found metal shavings in it see what happens keep you updated
Bleed the fluid, either with a "water bottle" bleeder, shown thusly on a caliper. Same principle on a slave cylinder bleeder:
You fill a bottle part way with fluid and SUBMERGE the vacuum line in the fluid. Then just pump away and make sure the master cylinder bowl stays full.
Or use a vacuum pump.
If you did the 2 person pump/hold method...you probably left air in there.
After you're confident its bled...if it's still doing it, adjust the engagement point. There is an adjustment rod for the master cylinder located under dash, attached to the clutch pedal arm. Youtube it for a clear explanation.
You basically just loosen the jam nut and turn the rod by hand (don't use tools to grab it).
6mm of pedal freeplay is what Honda calls for, usually.
Yeah I changed the slave last month and did the 2 person bleeding, I'll try the other way after I change the master. Probably not tomorrow either tho, and Thursday is football so who knows😂
It's your clutch pack. Probably throwout bearing/fingers on the pressure plate have worn down enough that it can't disengage properly. I also felt no slippage, but same symptoms at/near redline. When you finally change your clutch you'll see that the friction plate will be worn to the rivets with strands peeling off. New clutch will fix your problems man.
As for metal shavings in your oil.... that's really not good. I'm not sure how that would have happened. (understandable in trans fluid due to disengaging/re-engaging gears). If you have metal in your oil I would expect that you should hear some audible knocking, possible spark plug damage... idk mang.
Yeah I ordered the clutch, hard to find the time to do it. But probably next weekend. Yeah the metal is alarming. I'm going to rebuild my engine I guess. guess I'm about to drop 3k cuz I may as well get performance parts and get some hp out the deal
Yeah I ordered the clutch, hard to find the time to do it. But probably next weekend. Yeah the metal is alarming. I'm going to rebuild my engine I guess. guess I'm about to drop 3k cuz I may as well get performance parts and get some hp out the deal
Yeah... you could build your engine, or just sell your car and buy this thing! Looks like a great deal!
Rattle on startup is probably a VTC actuator problem.
Idk what to make about the metal in your oil. Does your new oil also have metal? Metal in oil means something pretty serious is wrong and the car would likely be having a lot of issues running.
Yeah I'm sure it was metal flakes. I'll check it again on my next oil change. I've only had the car for 10k miles so I'm not really sure how it was being driven or taken care of. But I take good care of my cars, really just going to focus on the issues, I'm going to send my next oil change to be analyzed. Figure out what exactly it is. And looking forward to building up the engine. Even though kinda hard to find parts. Anyone know where I can find performance cams? Can't seem to find em
Yeah I'm sure it was metal flakes. I'll check it again on my next oil change. I've only had the car for 10k miles so I'm not really sure how it was being driven or taken care of. But I take good care of my cars, really just going to focus on the issues, I'm going to send my next oil change to be analyzed. Figure out what exactly it is. And looking forward to building up the engine. Even though kinda hard to find parts. Anyone know where I can find performance cams? Can't seem to find em
I wouldn't worry about performance cams unless you're truly going to do the racecar thing. Otherwise you'll be fine on stock cams weather you go turbo, supercharger, or... twincharger haha. We have like 50deg adv on low & high cam. My thought if you go performance cam is that you're gunna lose drive-ability and prolly idle like shit. Once you build the engine you should be alright to 400hp on stock trans.. Not sure you'd want to go past that number or else you're dropping some $$$$$$$$$$$$
Are there metal shavings on the dipstick currently, with the new oil?
As far as building or rebuilding an engine - why?
Rebuilding for boost (even 300-400whp) costs an easy $10K after all the other supporting mods if the intent is to do it properly.
Or you could buy a 335i for the extra $10K after selling your TSX.
Rebulding to stock is a worse idea. Factory built longblocks from 2011+ model, low mileage partouts are like... $900-1300? Why not just swap in a low mile longblock? Easier...and its factory built.
If you want an all-motor build, a K24A2 with a few bolt ons and maybe a K20 head and Hondata is a WAY better option than a K24Z build.
No metal currently on my dipstick, but I have burned a about a quart of oil in 230 miles 😔. I just figured if I change the internals it will fix my issues. Idk starting to lose my mind with this thing.
I can't see any smoke when I drive it. I'm just afraid of buying another engine and d having the same problems. Or any problems for that matter. Just don't know what to do.
A quart per 230 miles would mean a ton of smoke and black soot all over the bumper.
The car was on level ground when you checked? Was the engine fully warmed up? Turning it on, moving it, and then checking it will result in a "low oil" reading.
A rebuilt engine will be expensive and have tons of down time...and likely give you issues.
Again...buy a used longblock from a reputable source. Some recyclers will give you a 6 month warranty.
Yeah I checked it when I got to the store cuz I can feel a noticeable difference and again when I got home but I don't see any smoke. Could i be crazy? My problem is I just don't understand enough about engines , I can turn a wrench and do most things, just don't understand the inner workings😂. So I'm just lost
Yeah, but also... if he "rebuilds" he could still sell the car as he would normally.. but if you swap engines, now you have a "rebuilt" title as the engine doesn't match the vin.
As for burning oil.. there is a TSB (maybe even recall, I can't remember) where the the rings needed to be replaced, and if the dealer ran the "oil consumption test" and it failed they would fix the problem for free. Butt idk if you qualify or not based on year mileage etc...It could point you in the right direction of the problem tho.
I've never heard of a rebuilt title from a non-original engine. There are lots of cars out there that are swapped for MANY reasons, including cars with factory replacement longblocks. Your title status won't change because you replace the engine.
I have doubts as to how much is wrong with OP's car. I would maybe have Acura do the oil burn test if it still falls under warranty. I doubt it will, with 155K miles.
If its out of warranty, I'd just leave it alone and drive it. Add oil as needed, and monitor it in a better/more uniform way.
Yeah think it's out of warranty. The way it's been going I put oil in it every other day. You don't think it sounds fucked up? Idk I just think 30 bucks a week for oil is retarded. Maybe I'll just take it to Acura. Should I just bitch at them and see if I can get them to run the test or do you think they just say no cuz no warranty.? Thanks I really appreciate you guys. It annoying cuz I feel like if this is a known problem they should just fix it if it fails their "test".
Yeah think it's out of warranty. The way it's been going I put oil in it every other day. You don't think it sounds fucked up? Idk I just think 30 bucks a week for oil is retarded. Maybe I'll just take it to Acura. Should I just bitch at them and see if I can get them to run the test or do you think they just say no cuz no warranty.? Thanks I really appreciate you guys. It annoying cuz I feel like if this is a known problem they should just fix it if it fails their "test".
They can't warranty things forever. It has 155K. It should run for much longer than that, but you don't know this car's history.
Have a shop check the car. They will likely do a compression test and go from there.
I'm kinda surprised at 1qt per 200 miles. This virtually always would cause:
-CEL on for various things...including misfires.
-Lots of smoke.
-Lots of soot on the back bumper.
-Oil odor.
-Car running awful.
-Etc.
ALL of this would have been clear as day upon a test drive.
Maybe it's got a leak, I don't see any oil in the bay and id be hard to tell cuz my bros Integra leaks all over the driveway. My dad's friend has a shop in Jersey city, I could take it there and let them check it out.. the damn oils going somewhere lol.
Yes, back to the original issue .. just went for a niice drive. Clutch issue fixed. I'm an idiot , I tryd adjusting my clutch pedal a month ago and only adjusted the pedal which made it worse...i never adjusted the push rod. Well I inspected my master and it seemed fine so I put it back and adjusted the pedal again and it's perfect 🤗. So atleast that's fixed bought the master back 75 bucks😁 lmao glad I didn't open it.
09-04-2017, 09:17 PM
see what happens keep you updated
