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Hey guys, so I have a question and I'd like any input I can get. I really want to put some 18 inch rims on my TL soon and I really want my tires and wheels to be flush with the fenders. I don't want any camber either. What would be the best way to achieve this? Would putting wider tires and rims be enough to flush it out or do I need wheel spacers and what not? Thanks in advance!
1. If you drop the car then you'll naturally gain negative camber as it drops, so the further you drop, the more those specs will change.
2. If you have Brembo brakes then these may not work for you.
1. If you drop the car then you'll naturally gain negative camber as it drops, so the further you drop, the more those specs will change.
2. If you have Brembo brakes then these may not work for you.
Thanks man! Very helpful! With 9.5in tires in the front would I have any interference with the wheel well while turning or any rubbing?
Thanks man! Very helpful! With 9.5in tires in the front would I have any interference with the wheel well while turning or any rubbing?
I ran 9.5 +40 with 255/40 at stock height and had no rubbing, but the wheels did poke 5mm in front. Most would not notice. As the car dropped I gained negative camber and still had no rubbing. I changed to a 265 tire and now I rub a tiny bit on big bumps, but not enough to cause me any issues. When it gets down to that though, every car is different.
18 x 9.5 +40 w/255-40 tires at stock height, no rubbing.
Summer. by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr
Thanks for the input! Appriciate the pics as well. Beautiful car man. That looks like PMM? I have an 08 PMM. I love the fitment in the very last picture you sent
Thanks for the input! Appriciate the pics as well. Beautiful car man. That looks like PMM? I have an 08 PMM. I love the fitment in the very last picture you sent
andrew, I'm trying to get my setup more flush . I'm on 18x9 +45 advans with 235/40 michelin pss and I'm dropped a fair amount. I dont want to roll fenders and I dont want to raise the car to accommodate a spacer as I like how it sits height wise now. What would you suggest. I have all thew camber kits. Skunk2 front and spc and ingalls in the rear so all adjustments can be made. My camber is at like -1.7 in the rear right now
andrew, I'm trying to get my setup more flush . I'm on 18x9 +45 advans with 235/40 michelin pss and I'm dropped a fair amount. I dont want to roll fenders and I dont want to raise the car to accommodate a spacer as I like how it sits height wise now. What would you suggest. I have all thew camber kits. Skunk2 front and spc and ingalls in the rear so all adjustments can be made. My camber is at like -1.7 in the rear right now
From stock height your wheels are probably 11mm from flush, but that becomes more with the drop. And then, of course, the tires are even further in because they're skinny. So, it depends on what you want flush, the wheel, or the tire, or both. If you're wanting to remain at the height you're at, and your negative camber is good, you really have no choice except to try some spacers. I'd probably try a 10mm, but you may be able to use 15mm in the rear. Your wheels could easily support a 245/40 tire, but they would be a bit taller, and wider, and therefore the spacer would need to change. I guess it will depend on if you're keeping those tires.
andrew, I'm trying to get my setup more flush . I'm on 18x9 +45 advans with 235/40 michelin pss and I'm dropped a fair amount. I dont want to roll fenders and I dont want to raise the car to accommodate a spacer as I like how it sits height wise now. What would you suggest. I have all thew camber kits. Skunk2 front and spc and ingalls in the rear so all adjustments can be made. My camber is at like -1.7 in the rear right now
Roll your fender tabs. Do it. You dont need to flare or pull them. Just toll the inner tab so the tire wont rip out the lining or a fender if you hit a bump.
Smaller tires will help your case as you wont rub as much. If you are okay with camber then run a smaller spacer and apply negative camber until it doesnt rub. If you dislike camber then a roll and smaller tires is the only with zero camber will look a hit more flush than 1.7 negative camber.
Hey guys, so I have a question and I'd like any input I can get. I really want to put some 18 inch rims on my TL soon and I really want my tires and wheels to be flush with the fenders. I don't want any camber either. What would be the best way to achieve this? Would putting wider tires and rims be enough to flush it out or do I need wheel spacers and what not? Thanks in advance!
If you want a perfectly flush wheel with no negative camber you are going to have to run a slightly stretched tire or else you will rub on every dip. There is no way around it. If you don't want to run a skinnier tire then be ready to roll and pull all of your fenders! I rolled my rear fenders with a wooden baseball bat. Not that hard to do. A lot of people are scared to roll their fenders and I'm not sure why? It's not rocket science. Pay to play
If you want a perfectly flush wheel with no negative camber you are going to have to run a slightly stretched tire or else you will rub on every dip. There is no way around it. If you don't want to run a skinnier tire then be ready to roll and pull all of your fenders!
He probably means no additional camber, meaning stock (which isn't 0 for sure).
At stock height I ran 18 x 9.5 +40 with 255/40 and had no rubbing at all. The rear was perfectly flush, but the front was poking about 5/7mm. I believe a 255/40 would sit flush on a 9.5 +45 without any additional camber, but it looks quite high in the front.
He probably means no additional camber, meaning stock (which isn't 0 for sure).
At stock height I ran 18 x 9.5 +40 with 255/40 and had no rubbing at all. The rear was perfectly flush, but the front was poking about 5/7mm. I believe a 255/40 would sit flush on a 9.5 +45 without any additional camber, but it looks quite high in the front.
Yeah I do not mind the camber that is currently there from the factory. I just don't want any additional camber unless it was barely noticeable. Anyways, I'm cool with sticking with 8.5s in the front if that means no rubbing.. So if I went with 18x8.5 +45 I'm the front it would be perfectly flush with no rubbing at all? Also, to whoever suggested rolling my fenders thank you for the input but Im not a rolled fender kinda guy haha.
Yeah I do not mind the camber that is currently there from the factory. I just don't want any additional camber unless it was barely noticeable. Anyways, I'm cool with sticking with 8.5s in the front if that means no rubbing.. So if I went with 18x8.5 +45 I'm the front it would be perfectly flush with no rubbing at all? Also, to whoever suggested rolling my fenders thank you for the input but Im not a rolled fender kinda guy haha.
-1.5 to -1.0 degrees of camber is within OE spec
i have a hard time believing 18x8.5 +45et is going to sit flush in the front... thats no where near flush.. those specs are way too weak to be flush
how am i able to run a whole inch wider plus 15mm (18x9.5 wide with a offset of 30) and barely have poke in the front
you can scroll up and see the picture i posted earlier..
the OEM 5 spoke wheels are 17x8" +45et... going half a inch wider isnt anywhere close enough to being flush in the front
im assuming since you havent mentioned anything about lowering your car, you're staying at stock height... which means
you dont have to worry about rubbing... hell you can go 10.5" wide with a offset of 20 and you wont rub
but keep in mind getting aftermarket wheels without a drop will look very off.. you'll have the 4x4 look effect
Last edited by champaned_out; 09-03-2016 at 01:23 PM.
im assuming since you havent mentioned anything about lowering your car, you're staying at stock height... which means
you dont have to worry about rubbing... hell you can go 10.5" wide with a offset of 20 and you wont rub.
Not and sit flush. He's asking the same question I asked when I got here, and no one seemed to know. Now I know through trial and error, and the answer is 18 x 9.5 +45.
Originally Posted by champaned_out
but keep in mind getting aftermarket wheels without a drop will look very off.. you'll have the 4x4 look effect
Not always, the rear looks fantastic with a 255/40. The problem is the front, but it doesn't look so bad.
Not and sit flush. He's asking the same question I asked when I got here, and no one seemed to know. Now I know through trial and error, and the answer is 18 x 9.5 +45.
Not always, the rear looks fantastic with a 255/40. The problem is the front, but it doesn't look so bad.
I like how the back looks in your picture I will stick with the 18x9.5 +45 in the back. So I'm the front would 18x9.5 +40 make it pretty close to flush? Oh, I haven't mentioned lowering because I don't plan on doing that for awhile but eventually I would like to
I like how the back looks in your picture I will stick with the 18x9.5 +45 in the back. So I'm the front would 18x9.5 +40 make it pretty close to flush? Oh, I haven't mentioned lowering because I don't plan on doing that for awhile but eventually I would like to
Just the opposite. What it takes to make flush on this car is different front to back, and it comes down to camber. The front has almost no camber, so it really needs 9.5 +45 or even +50. The rear has more negative camber, so it really needs 9.5 +40 or even +48. When it comes down to the mm, every car is different, so to be safe I always say 9.5 +45. My 9.5 +40 had some (5-7mm) poke without lowering.
All this goes out the window when you lower the car, you'll gain negative camber and fit easily, then you can add spacers (thin, and cheap) to get it perfect for your height.
So, if you can, but 9.5 +45 to make your life easier, but 9.5 +40 will work as well, it's just not absolutely optimal. When I say "optimal" I mean running the CORRECT tire size for these huge wheels, which is 255/265, not this 225 crap that people are running with death camber.
Last edited by VisualEchos; 09-04-2016 at 07:22 AM.
Just the opposite. What it takes to make flush on this car is different front to back, and it comes down to camber. The front has almost no camber, so it really needs 9.5 +45 or even +50. The rear has more negative camber, so it really needs 9.5 +40 or even +48. When it comes down to the mm, every car is different, so to be safe I always say 9.5 +45. My 9.5 +40 had some (5-7mm) poke without lowering.
All this goes out the window when you lower the car, you'll gain negative camber and fit easily, then you can add spacers (thin, and cheap) to get it perfect for your height.
So, if you can, but 9.5 +45 to make your life easier, but 9.5 +40 will work as well, it's just not absolutely optimal. When I say "optimal" I mean running the CORRECT tire size for these huge wheels, which is 255/265, not this 225 crap that people are running with death camber.
Hmm alright. Thanks for all the insight man! Very very helpful! So from what I've gathered I should be going with 18x9.5 +40 with 255's in the rear and 18x9.5 +45 with 255's in the front? I don't plan on doing this for a couple months but now that I know exactly what I should be getting I can be on the lookout
Hmm alright. Thanks for all the insight man! Very very helpful! So from what I've gathered I should be going with 18x9.5 +40 with 255's in the rear and 18x9.5 +45 with 255's in the front? I don't plan on doing this for a couple months but now that I know exactly what I should be getting I can be on the lookout
You should buy the same wheel specs front to rear, then get small spacers to make them flush.
18 x 9.5 +45 sir
Also, with that wheel size and 255/40 I did not rub at all at stock height, and no need to roll the lips.
yes if you look at my picture I'm 18x9 +45 offset and lowered a fair bit and my wheels are sunken in bad lol. Im going to try 15mm in the front and rear and see what It looks like. I may have to raise the car which I dont really want to as I like how low it is now and would like to go lower but we will see. I also plan on keeping the 235/40 tire. I wouldnt want to go skinnier, beefier would be an option too I guess but wouldnt be able to go as low
bottle is Eagle One Nanowax Spray... i prefer spray on wax cause its much easier to apply and remove, plus theres no haze getting stuck in between the body trim
Originally Posted by Oh Sickest TL
champ are your fenders rolled?
Nope my fenders did not need to be rolled... and i have yet to rub under any circumstance
if i remember correctly my natural camber in the rear was around -1.6 or -1.7
Originally Posted by SocomM4
Champed used 30mm offset, because he dropped , and that pushes the hubs out a bit ? Confused a bit here guys.
nothing i did pushes the hub out, i didnt use spacers... if you're speaking about offset then yeah, lower offset will push the wheel out further but that has nothing to do with the wheel hub
right now from my own personal experience going with a 9.5" wide wheel and a 30 offset will give you a nice flush look... if i went another 1" lower it would really make my wheel setup come alive.. but with the 1.5" drop i already have and the aspec front lip im already scraping on certain ramps
^^^so if I'm at 18x9 +45 with 235/40 then I should be able to get away with 15mm spacers front and rear then .
Im hating this sunken in shit
15mm spacer would basically make your setup exactly like mine
im running 235/40 as well but my drop is pretty mild... im on tein s-techs.. at the end of the day, drop height would really make the difference between rubbing and not
edit:
just saw you said 18x9.. 15mm might be fine for you even with a more aggressive drop since your running a slightly narrower wheel than mine
Last edited by champaned_out; 09-06-2016 at 12:49 PM.
Flush, from what I have seen has two definitions I guess. The Azine definition and Stance crowd's definition (and lets remember they started the term).
Here flush seems to just mean your wheel and fender look even if you look at them from the back or front of the car.
The stance crowd however says the fender/wheel need to be flush with no gap to be called "flush". Meaning you typically tuck the tire in and the wheel lip sits extremely close to the fender.
So really, in the stance scene, all these TLs just sit nicely. They aren't sunk like Sickest has mentioned and with very little poke if any. While this looks great and is a great daily driven stance, that is NOT flush... well not flush if you were to go to most car meets and talk to stanced guys. But here I guess that is flush... meaning my wheels are super flush. In reality I wouldnt even call my wheels flush but they easily meet the requirements of what is being called flush here.
Just some food for thought.
This is flush IMO
Hard to commit to. Hard to daily. But looks great. ^That is why I cant consider my wheels flush.
My car which I would say isnt even close to flush but I do like the stance and very content with it. It is however not flush.
I would say hella flush is that extreme stuff and flush is what us guys strive for.
when those guys on air tuck the fender inside the lip of wheel on the stretched tires it makes me cringe a little. It looks fucking amazing but man how would feel hitting a little fuckin pebble on the road and your fenders get dismantled lol
I would say hella flush is that extreme stuff and flush is what us guys strive for.
when those guys on air tuck the fender inside the lip of wheel on the stretched tires it makes me cringe a little. It looks fucking amazing but man how would feel hitting a little fuckin pebble on the road and your fenders get dismantled lol
Interesting. IMO Hella flush was just made up by a bunch of hipsters trying to create the next cool thing. Id laugh at anyone that said they were hella flush like hella was a term with a definition. Only people that should say hella flush are the stance guys from San Francisco. hahaha
Hella is an American slang term that originated in the San Francisco Bay Area, but has since spread to become native slang to all of Northern California. It is used to describe such as 'hella bad' or 'hella good', and eventually added to the Oxford English Dictionary in 2012.
^google LOL
The guys on air dont typically drive like that so nothing to cringe over. As for the static guys. If they do it right they have coilovers with springs that have higher spring rates than double what you are I have. Like I'm talking 24k spring rates. Shit is nuts. They have zero downward travel in their set ups so its they cant hit their fender to wheel. The ones that do arent using the proper set to to get away with wheels that aggressively stanced.
In reality none of it matters. I was just commenting that this term flush is not the same for everyone. Flush to you guys is clearly different that the flush I know. And further more, as has been dicussed, you can be "flush" as you guys see it at stock height but every inch you go lower changes how "flush" you are. So one set up that is flush on OPs car wont be flush on your (sickests) TL because there is a height difference.
My best advice would be how I approached it. Buy coils and go as low as you wont and see how much room you have. Then buy wheels and see how much more room you have. From there buy spacers to fit the remaining space. I suggest everyone roll their fenders to avoid any damage to the fender or wheel. Rolling a fender does not mean making it look any different. It will look exactly the same just there isnt as much meat on the inside to catch you tire and either ruin the rubber or rip out your fender lining.
i can't roll mine though as they've been repaired from rust so thats why I'm nervous about a roll ,otherwise it be done by now.. imma try spacers and camber to see what i can get out of it
08-25-2016, 04:50 PM
It's not rocket science. Pay to play 
