blownby

Took car to check get alignment before new tires go on. Car is lowered on Tein srings about 1.5" Caster I have set at -1.2* each side on rear. Have adjustable uppers!

The most they can get the rear toe is as follows:

Left .17*
Right.23*
Total .40*

So they said basically the bolt must be seized in there as it's not moving, or maybe it's maxed out??

Anyway do i just replace with stock or should i just an aftermaret control arm?
Which one do I want?

Thanks,

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

If I needed to do any work on the rear suspension, I'd go with aftermarket units to give you toe and camber adjustments.

blownby

so just like the ingalls

do i need to swap the front or the rear most of the lower control arms or both?


http://store.excelerateperformance.c...5/i-60220.aspx

MonkeyTrucker

I'd wager your control arm bolt is seized too, probably rounded off as well. I'd be prepared to cut them off or have someone do it. I used a sawzall and went through four new blades. You're right next to the gas tank, like literally butted up against it.

I'd also research those Ingalls you're interested in, quite a few complaints about the bushings used in them and lowered guys were finding themselves constantly out of alignment with those installed.

I'd suggest new control arms, if seized, and you may get it back within spec. Not sure of the stock rear control arm toe range though.

EDIT - Here you go.

Rear toe spec thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/tires-w...n-rust-929852/

Ingalls Issue:
https://acurazine.com/forums/tires-w...er-kit-846561/


I actually had a set for both sides (Ingalls) but returned them after reading about the related bushing issues...and I'm not lowered.

TacoBello

Maybe it's just me, but with only a 1.5" drop, you shouldn't have any issues getting the toe back into factory specifications. Something's not right...

MonkeyTrucker

I agree too, OP should prepare to saw of the rear control arms.

I had the alignment guy come get me to show that the bolt was not only seized, but rounded off. The fine folks that took money from me and supposedly did an alignment a few months prior, failed to mention that detail...go figure.

OP stock > aftermarket rear control arm. I used synthetic, ceramic anti-seize grease in there, a LOT, to ensure they wouldn't seize after I installed them.

Common issue with so much heat from the exhaust as well as winter salt.

blownby

the mechanic was a buddy at the Honda dealer.
He said they were seized and said he could heat them, but probably ruin the bushing.
They didn't charge me anything since they counldnt fix it.


So do you think i should just go oem?
The ingalls supposedly fixed?
Or any other oftermarket brands for the lowers?

blownby

If i go ingalls, and have to cut oem bolt out, i assume i need to order new one as the ingalls kit is just the arms?

MonkeyTrucker

OEM - Yes

I'd personally stay away from Ingalls, unless you going for a mad drop. I'm sure a vendor (or two) will chime in and assure these are OK, I'd read the whole threads related to Ingalls before dropping cash on them.

OEM are not expensive, folks go aftermarket when going for those mad drops.

What's your suspension / wheel setup? If it's close to stock no real need to fork money over on aftermarket stuff to compensate for mad drop / +2 wheels.

blownby

yea no mad drop. Just 1.5"

One more question. With an adjustable lower & upper camber arm, can u in essence tuck the tire in a tad.
Thanks

jjjoootttaaa

If you NEED to tuck the wheel in a bit, just get the SPC top camber arm.

I had the SPC and Ingalls arms. Ended up getting rid of ingalls arms for oem arms.

My ingalls were 3 years old with badly worn bushings. I've only put 8k miles on the car in 2 years. Rear of car felt like crap due to the shot bushings.

Whenever I aired out, the wheels would stick out towards the rear bumper a bit. With OEM arms they're straight as an arrow !

blownby

yeah I have the spc adjustable upper, but thought the lower adjustable could also help pull in the bottom with a wider tire so not so far out

nfnsquared

with the spc arms and only 1.5" of drop, the OEM toe arms (rear control arms) should handle your toe just fine.

I got both control arms, bolts and nuts for $168.xx shipped from acurapartsforless.

Is that better suited for this purpose than just standard white lithium grease? I'll have to check that stuff out...

blownby

Just ordered stocker parts!

Will cut out and reinstall and align next week!

Have my new 255/35 -19 DWS 06's awaiting!!

MonkeyTrucker

Bottle is big enough to last a lifetime, after researching synthetic and most all anti-seize agents eventually has base dissipate, I felt more comfortable using this as it's rated highest for heat and won't wash away. If/when it does dissipate (prob won't from heat), the ceramic remains instead of metal.

I think synthetic anti-seize with ceramic is just starting to gain traction in the market. Although this is marketed for "brakes," I also used it on all of my exhaust components to the long tube after the third cat.

Here's the website details:
Specialty Lubricants - Brakes : Permatex® CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant

I bought it on Amazon for about $8.

blownby

OEM arms & bolts came in yesterdy.
Jacked up rear end and cut bolts out in 5 mins aside.
OEM arms back in in 15 mins aside.
1 hr project start to finish in garage/driveway.

Got it aligned and all back to spec!

New DWS 06's on this weekend

nfnsquared

What blades did you use and how many?

blownby

blades. haha!
This makes it sooooo much faster! and blade lasts forever


Metabo with a 7 or 8" cutoff wheel!!




New Parts:




Old Parts:

nfnsquared

OK, I do have a 7" cut off blade for my Craftsman C3 grinder. Good idea, I'll give it a shot. Is that blade of yours 7" or 8"? Looks like 7"....

Did you have to cut both sides of the bolt?

blownby

Just measured it and it is 6.5" ....so maybe was 7" a few yrs ago when new. I cut a decent amount with it.

Yes had to cut the bolt on both sides.
The side closest to front is a bit harder. But literally was like 2-3 mins a side going slow so not to have the blade jump.

nfnsquared

The 7" cut off wheel was perfect!! I don't think my 19.2V Craftsman grinder has the RPM of the corded Metabo, but it worked fine. Took me probably 10 minutes for each arm (and a battery for each arm). If I have to do this again, I'll wear a dust mask. That crap gets everywhere...I used white lithium grease, we'll see how well it does.

Got both control arms swapped, rear pads changed and winter tires/wheels on. Timing belt on Saturday....

As I was watching sparks fly near my gas tank, 3 fire trucks rolled down my street with sirens blaring. A neighbor's detached shop was burning to the ground (rural fire department) as I was spewing sparks in my own garage...kind of eerie...

blownby

Man that is crazy!

Yea my metabo is like a Blown V-8 and your craftsman is like a little v-6, and sawzall is a little 4 banger!

hahaha

t-rd

Serves another good example and reminder that Ingalls arms are still crap. I also went back from Ingalls to OEM lower arms plus SPC upper adjustable arms. Alignment has not gone out for a whole year with stiffer rear using this setup. My Ingalls arms were sent directly to Ingalls for inspection... still no news on that. Yeah they suck.

nfnsquared

Yeah, love the SPC arms. The down side to the SPC arms is that since the alignment holds so well, the toe adjustment bolts never get moved and that could lead to them seizing, as mine finally did after I got the SPC arms installed.

It might be a good idea to pull those bolts and put some kind of A/S on them, dunno.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

OEm with SPC upper arm. I think rockauto has other brand of adjustable upper arm also.

Also I have the same issue as nfnsquared as I haven't moved the arms in a while so they were extremely hard to move since the threads were covered with rust and other bad stuff from snow and salt