Just completed 1 year and 23,200 miles. The RDX is the primary family utility wagon, travel vehicle and Mom's daily driver.

I have done 3 B1 services and 1 B16. I DIY and always do B (full inspection) services.

Scheduled service supplies:

1, Helms RDX Service Manual------------$80
4, 5-qt jugs Mobil 1 Ext Perf -----------$104
2, 1-qt bottles Mobil 1 Ext Perf----------$12 (oil change takes 5.3 qts)
4, Mobil 1 M1-110 filters------------------$40
4, 1-qt bottles ATF-Z1---------------------$28 (rear diff)
Plenty of all crush washers--------------$10

Total scheduled maintenance costs-----$274

Additionally the oil change interval increased from about 5500 miles initially to 6700 miles.

Reliability issues and problems:

A) On second day found plastic seat track end cap on floor. Snapped in place. No further problem.
B) During first week noticed rear window washer hose was kinked in the hatch jam when closed. Twisted out the kink. No further problem.
C) About 6th month right front door mid-range speaker went fuzzy. I bought another and replaced it myself. (This could have been done free at the dealer.)

Although these are minor issues, for some owners this might have been 3 visits to the dealer. Too many for more than an average first year reliability rating.

Total unsched maintenance costs-----$25 (one mid-range speaker)

Average fuel economy has increased from an early 17.8 mpg to consistent now at 20.2 mpg daily commuting. Highway cruise at 65 mph yields 27 mpg.

Total fuel used over 23200 miles: 1160 gallons.

The vehicle is very safe, fun to drive, and excellent in the snow. It transports our family of 4 in comfort and has sufficient utility for travel and hockey gear. Overall, we are entirely pleased with the RDX.

Regarding the Consumer Reports Satisfaction question....we would definitely do it over again. This is the best car we have ever owned.

 

Where did you come up with 5.3 quarts for oil change?

 

I drain it overnight. Then fill the Mobil 1 oil filter before putting it on, and the rest of the Wal-Mart 5 qt jug goes into the engine, brnging it to about 6mm below the upper hole on the dipstick.

I run the engine, let everything settle and add .3 qt to bring it up exactly to the upper hole on the dipstick.

Four services now and anytime I check, it is right on the upper hole.

I'm sure you could just add 5 qts, but it does not read full on the dipstick.

 

drain overnight...wow overkill :P

 

I really need a life!

 

Mobil1 EP is not HTO-6 certified.

 

Any reason why you're using Mobil 1 M1-110 filter instead of Honda OEM filter? The new Honda PCX filters are supposed to be very good.

Here's a good article on oil filters: http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml

 

After normal draining (where a shop would be re-installing the plug) I put an empty container under the car and let it sit all night. There is usually about 1/4 qt in there by morning.

 

Glad you brought that up. I did a lot of research before going to EP. What I've determined to be a reasonable deduction is; the qualities of Mobil 1 SuperSyn are magnified with EP, which contains 50% more SuperSyn.

That is, EP does everything the regular M1 does, only better or for a longer duration. The ability of detergent oil to suspend contaminants, and it's saturation level, determine it's service life. EP generates less contaminates than M1 and is capable of suspending more, resulting in an approved service life of 15000 miles.

Changing by the Maint Minder, I am using less than half of the capability of EP. Considering that the Maint Minder monitors hot and cold start cycles, RPM, oil temp, oil pressure, etc, I find it interesting that my change intervals have steadily crept up from 5350 to 6700 miles using EP. I realize this is unscientific, but could it be that EP has reduced friction and temperatures monitored by the Maint Minder? Or is it simply that the engine is fully broken in? Any thoughts BleuM&M?

Additionally, EP can be easily confused with M1 on the shelf, and I doubt that Honda would have issues with EP or they would publish clear direction regarding M1 versus EP.

I expect that EP will meet HTO-06 when tested.

 

Always enjoy reading your posts XLR8R. Keep up the good, informative work.

 

It probably meets HTO-06 standard already, except that it was not yet certified. To get certification they need to do a lot of testing and etc. The reason I brought it up is because of warranty, if you ever have engine problems caused by lubrication, and the dealer asks you for receipts, they might give you hard time, and in theory could refuse you warranty since Mobil 1 EP officially is not HTO-6 certified.

I am not saying they will do that, and I am also pretty sure that EP is the same or better than Mobil 1... but to be safe - I would not do it. Only after warranty is over, you can do it.

Now, I don't believe you get more miles on EP, the computer knows nothing about oil. Some members reported getting more miles between oil changes with time, so its probably just coincidence.

If you going to change your oil by computer, which is 4-5K miles, why waste money on EP? Mobil 1 for 4-5K miles is more then enough.

After my warranty is over, I might consider going 10K miles between oil changes(regardless of MID) using Mobil 1 EP or Amsoil (assuming Amsoil gets HTO6 certification)

My 2001 CLS gets Mobil 1 EP, and I change oil 10K/1yr (whichever comes first).
No engine problems whats so ever

 

I had mine drained for 2 hours, and I also found I needed 5.3 quarts of oil to be added.

 

Great mpg figures. Curious: is your mpg based on the trip computer or your own calculations?

Nice record keeping with the 1160 gallons. You are certainly organized. Glad you like the RDX. Thanks for posting.

 

You are right of course, but I believe the greatest problem auto-makers have with owners is not doing the maintenance on schedule, if at all. Neglecting service is what bites owners over warranty work. I change right on schedule, with the proper grade of Mobil 1 (EP) and document thoroughly. I am frequently in my dealership, purchasing supplies and consulting with the Maint Dept regarding my services. It's not like I dumped in SuperTech dino and ignored it for 12k miles.

Now if I turn the key tomorrow and launch the turbine wheel through the hood, perhaps Honda will put up a fight, but I am confident that EP provides equal or better protection against that possibility. I have had 30-some vehicles and have never had a lubrication related problem.

True, the monitor measures parameters, not oil quality, and I don't know why the interval is increasing, but I think EP is the best quality I can buy and it's only 5 or 6 bucks more. I don't ever plan to stretch the interval using EP. If I can't afford 30 bucks of oil every 6 months, I better stop hitting Starbucks....

Glad to hear EP does well in your CL.

 

Yes, the overhaul capacity of the engine is actually 6.1 qts, some of which is not accessible, but draining it longer does get more out.

 

I would say most of this is serious overkill, but if it's what makes you happy then it's all cool. Better too frequent a service than not.

I find that most Acuras hold a quarter of a quart more than specified when changing the oil anf filter.I top them off at work when I do an oil change.

 

So I save myself a good chunk of change (and time) by draining for 10 minutes and adding a 5 qt bottle of Mobil 1. Being as there is still used oil in the engine regardless of how long you drain it, the new oil will be contaminated regardless of how much trouble you go to (unless you rebuild the engine every 6k miles).

Joe

 

So it's all cool.