I've been trying to complete my timing belt. Not an easy task for a rookie. I am to the point where I need to put the timing belt back on. However, I didn't put the crankshaft bolt back in before I removed the belt. Now the crankshaft pulley spins freely of the crankshaft. Was i supposed to put the bolt back in before removing the belt? If I align the rear and front cams...do I need to somehow align the crankshaft pulley with the camshaft pulleys before I put the new belt in? Any answers would be greatly appreciated.

 

Is the 'key' (#16 on the link) installed in the key way of the crankshaft when you place the TB drive pulley? That would keep it from spinning freely.

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-p...rankshaft-scat

 

I have the key and the tool. I'm trying to find out if the crankshaft is now out of sync with the camshafts being that I didn't have the crankshaft pulley locked in when I took the belt off and lined up the camshafts. My concern is that when I took the belt off the crankshaft actually moved but independent of the pulley because it wasnt locked in.

Or do I just line up the crankshaft pulley with the arrow and lock it in place with the key and the bolt and put the new belt on?

 

Relax and don't panic. You're doing fine.

 

Relax and don't panic. You're doing fine.

 

After putting the t belt on all you need to do is make sure all the marks are in alignment... Both cams and crank shaft pully. If they are then turn the timing bolt by hand (wrench) clock wise 5 or 6 rotations until the timing marks (TDC) are aligned again (one full 4 stroke cycle). Do not continue until you have a visual comfirmation that all the marks are in alignment a second time. Once you have visual comfirmation the second time then you're home free from there and the rest is down hill.

 

Thanks, zeta was correct in that I didn't have the key in. I put the key in and moved all three pulleys to TDC. Now I can't get the new timing belt on. Any tricks to getting it back on? All the videos I've seen make it seem so easy. I tried to put the tensioner on last but there wasn't enough room to put it back on.

 

Per the Helm's manual:
Install the timing belt in a counterclockwise sequence starting with the drive pulley.
1 Drive pulley
2 Idler pulley
3 Front camshaft pulley
4 Water pump pulley
5 Rear camshaft pulley
6 Adjusting pulley

 

Is the tensioner in the pinned/retracked state when you're installing it? New belt tensioner only.

 

yes, I purchased the kit and it's pinned.

I tried it per the helms manual with no success. Do the 2 pulleys and the tensioner need to be installed prior to installing the belt?

also...would the time belt contract in cold weather? Maybe that's a dumb question but it seems like something just isn't right....as in the belt is not long enough. The camshafts always get out of timing when I force the belt into place. I've heard there's a tool you can buy/rent to hold them in place. Are you aware of this tool?

 

Idler pulleys go on first, then the belt, and tensioner is last.

The belt is smaller in colder weather but not much. It's suppose to be tight.

Sounds like you already had the belt on but marks are off after doing so. So the belt fits and you already know how to install it.

What you need to do is count how many teeth it's off when the belt is on and then take it off and guesstimate by rotating the cam sprocket off timing by the the same or similar amount of teeth to compensate for the rotation of the cam sprocket once the belt is installed. Keep doing that until the marks are align. You might put more pressure on The Idler Pulley to give yourself more slack to make it a little easier.

There's no timing tool because it's all trial and error until all the marks are align.

 

In the Helm's, as the last step in 'Removing the TB' it states to loosen the Idler pulley bolt 5 or 6 turns, then remove the TB. If you look at the attached scan, when you get the timing belt installed, then the Helm's states to 'tighten the idler pulley bolt' to 33 lbf-ft. Therefore, if you have the Idler pulley fully installed and tightened, that may be the space difference that is restricting your placement of the new TB. Get what I'm saying?

 

I plan on starting back on this project thus Saturday. Above you said that the tensioner goes on last. Are you referring to the piece with the pin in it? If so, I tried to put that on last but it was near impossible due to lack of clearance behind the adjusting pulley.

I haven't been able to even get the new belt back on yet. In your fourth paragraph above I got confused. So, I attempted to mark the old belt at tdc and transferred those marks to the new belt. If I'm able to get the new belt on and have all the pulleys at tdc but the new belt marks are off a couple notches....would that be an issue? Or is it only critical to get all the pulleys at Tdc?

In addition to reviewing your response I plan on doing the following.

1. Loosen the idler pulley.
2. Have a friend hold the front and rear cams in place while maneuvering the new belt on
3. Using a hair dryer while belt is close in order to expand the rubber
4. Cover in gasoline and throw a match bahahaha

Thanks for your help!

 

Interested to hear what method ultimately works out for you.
In addition, you could put the TB in a preheated oven at its lowest setting, for about 30-45minutes (about 100F or so), before your attempted install to increase pliability.

Good Luck!

 

Are you following the FSM instructions? You should have no problem getting the belt to fit. I don't have it with me right now but there is one pulley that should be loosened I think.

 

Sorry my mistake, I said to install the tensioner last but that's not right. Try the following...

Idler pulleys go on first (leaving the idler pulley loose), then the tensioner, T belt (counter clockwise starting at the crank shaft pully), and then pull the pin off of the tensioner is last. Don't for get to tighten the loose idler pulley bolt.

Once the belt is on. It's critical that the timing marks are all in alignment. If the marks are off, then you have to keep removing and reinstalling the T belt until the all the marks are in alignment.

Don't worry about the belt's notches being off. The timing marks are what is important. When the marks are all in alignment then the belt's notches are in the right place.

I wouldn't heat up the T belt. The belt is made to with stand high heat without stretching. Think off hot summer days with the engine running. It's still keeping the engine timing under the closed hood... Not stretching. The belt will be damaged if it stretches. Just keep the belt at normal room temperature or a warm room.

 

So, I got the belt back on! I still need to torque down the pulleys and tensioner and release the pin. What is the "timing bolt " that you referenced above that I need to turn to rotate the cams and crankshaft? Is it any of the 3 bolts? I don't have the bolt back in the crankshaft yet so maybe I need to turn the front or rear cam bolts? Also, should I rotate as stated above before or after I pull the tensioner pin?

 

oh, what I did different to get the belt back on was to loosen the idler pulley and I got a friend to help me....basically we installed the belt from the crankshaft to the front cam...through water pump pulley and when we got to the rear cam there was a fine line of muscle and finesse to move the JUMPY rear cam and put the belt on. Even the marks I put on the new belt lined up!!!

 

 

Yes, after you pull the belt tensioner pin and then put the crank pully on and rotate the crank pully bolt TDC to TDC again clockwise by hand rachet to double check your timing marks again. If it's still in timing the second time then you're good to go... Button her up... Congrads!

 

You should replace the following...

All belts, plugs, thermostat, rad cap, air filter, all remove able idler pulleys. You will get more than your money back in MPG.

Don't forget to open the heater valve when burping the cooling system. Just fill the radiator to the top and let the car idle until the rad fan comes on twice. Then top off rad and overflow tank.

 

I guess my concern is that if you pull the tensioner pin and then rotate the crankshaft just to find out they're not tdc after a rotation....wouldn't you be screwed!!!

how many rotations do you make?

 

ok. Are there a total of 2 more belts...serpentine and power steering?

what plugs are there to replace? Just the dead end ones that are cracked? I found one of those.

where is the heater valve?
I will purchase a new cap thermostat and air filter.

also. I bought a radiator flushing chemical because I'm pretty sure it's rusted from having water in it. Have any of you used a radiator flushing chemical?

 

You have to do it with the pin out because that might change the belt tension and move the pulleys around a little bit. Better safe than sorry.

Not sure how many rotations but you can track the number one piston by using a screw driver through the spark plug hole.

At TDC the no. 1 piston is going to move up and down two times. First time back up is the exhaust stroke (half way). Second time back up will be the compression stroke again... That's TDC again. Now check the marks again. They all should be in alignment again.

 

the crankshaft pulley has the metal pin. After I put the timing belt on the metal pin is not at tdc. The mark I put whiteon is at tdc. Is this Ok? All the pictures I see show the metal pin at tdc and I can't see where the mark on the crankshaft pulley is at. I want to make sure everything is perfect before I pull the pin.

 

the crankshaft pulley has the metal pin. After I put the timing belt on the metal pin is not at tdc. The mark I put whiteon is at tdc. Is this Ok? All the pictures I see show the metal pin at tdc and I can't see where the mark on the crankshaft pulley is at. I want to make sure everything is perfect before I pull the pin.

 

The slot on the crankshaft where the woodruff key goes should be at the 12 o'clock position. There is also a mark on the crank gear right above the key slot that lines up with the arrow mark on the block at TDC. Obviously, the marks on the front and rear cam gears must also line up with their TDC marks in order for everything to be in time.

 

 

Damnit!!! I'm just glad I didn't pull the pin on the tensioner!!! I see what I did wrong now. I don't have the crankshaft at tdc. Guess it's time to fix it.

 

I finally finished the timing belt! I have one problem. I stripped the threads on the bracket that connects to the engine behind the timing belt covers that the engine mount connects to. I put the bolt back in with blue lok tire and I haven't driven it yet. Does anyone have a permanent solution? Please help

 

I would think helicoil.