DEAL/front bulbs upgrade
#1
DEAL/front bulbs upgrade
Hi guys, I'm new to Acura ownership I found a great deal on a 2009 TL with only 50,000 miles. Reliability for that year seems outstanding so I jumped on the offer. I want to upgrade the DRLs. But I also see guys talking about shutting them off all together. What is everyone's opinion on this?
If you vote to keep them and upgrade, are these good choices?
http://www.vleds.com/shop-application/application-high-beam/9005-hb3/9005-ultra-lmz.html
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/9005-CREE-High-Beam-LED-Daytime-Lights-Kit-p/40-070-drl.htm
If you vote to remove them, I guess just pulling the fuse and I won't see any error messages?
Second question, anybody have opinions on which led bulbs to use for the front turn signals?
Thanks in advance!
If you vote to keep them and upgrade, are these good choices?
http://www.vleds.com/shop-application/application-high-beam/9005-hb3/9005-ultra-lmz.html
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/9005-CREE-High-Beam-LED-Daytime-Lights-Kit-p/40-070-drl.htm
If you vote to remove them, I guess just pulling the fuse and I won't see any error messages?
Second question, anybody have opinions on which led bulbs to use for the front turn signals?
Thanks in advance!
#3
There are multiple threads here: https://www.google.com/search?q=site...hrome&ie=UTF-8
Read through them and see which one best fits your wants/needs/style!
Read through them and see which one best fits your wants/needs/style!
#4
I decided
Thanks guys. I decided to go with the V3 Triton's for the blinkers. And then an HID kit for the high beam DRL. I think spending more money on a better set up is the best choice. Plus, with these kits it's all plug and play. No splicing because even the resistors are connected via plug n play.
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#9
The V3S Triton's are the professional way to do an LED upgrade. The plug and play means no wire splicing when you have an on board computer monitoring the draw of current. Others require you to splice in a resistor. They are also better than a regular LED bulb because the lumens is much better in bright sunlight versus the cheaper bulbs. Hope that helps.
#11
Cool yes please share your photos. Take them in the sunlight to show it since that's the most important. Also, you don't get a bulb out warning?
#12
I'll take a pic tomorrow and tomorrow night to give you an idea.
#13
Well I guess it's finally tomorrow. My bad bud.
Here's some day-shots with headlights on and fogs on and off. I'll get some night shots soon.
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Here's some day-shots with headlights on and fogs on and off. I'll get some night shots soon.
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
#14
Well I guess it's finally tomorrow. My bad bud.
Here's some day-shots with headlights on and fogs on and off. I'll get some night shots soon.
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Here's some day-shots with headlights on and fogs on and off. I'll get some night shots soon.
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
#15
#16
Alright so the DRLs arrived yesterday and I installed them. Part one of my light project. Took me about 10mins and they are perfect. For anyone still looking and not knowing, these from vleds are perfect and the best thing is they put out the proper amount of power, so no resistors needed and the computer does not throw a DRL code. Plug n play install. You can buy them here: http://www.vleds.com/shop-application/application-high-beam/9005-hb3/smz-9005.html
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Soal Man (03-02-2017)
#20
Your low beams are HID. The stock high beams are halogen. The DRLs are only the high beams, just at a lower power setting, so not 100% until you actually activate high beams. The DRL LEDs I speak about above are perfect. You won't be disappointed. Considering the usage or DRLs to high beams, the DRLs were more important. They're simply used more of the time than any other light, except your low beams...
#22
Your low beams are HID. The stock high beams are halogen. The DRLs are only the high beams, just at a lower power setting, so not 100% until you actually activate high beams. The DRL LEDs I speak about above are perfect. You won't be disappointed. Considering the usage or DRLs to high beams, the DRLs were more important. They're simply used more of the time than any other light, except your low beams...
#23
Yeah, that's why I was wondering how the low vs high beams compare. I almost never run DRLs, my car usually is always on low-beams. I might get a nice set of LED DRLs if I can actually use the high-beams. I do go into woody/forested areas at night at my drive home roughly 2x a week so I often use high-beams to see better. I wouldn't be able to trade a lower lumen/throw high beam for a nicer looking DRL.
The following 3 users liked this post by Christopher Michael:
#26
Thanks for the link and pics CM. About to return my Philips Diamond vision drl bulbs and get me them VLED's SMZ's. They look pretty legit from your photo comparisons. A bit pricey, but gotta pay 2 play. There goes my ski trip money smdh
#27
No problem. I'll be posting the vleds V3 Triton's in a week or two when they arrive. If you haven't done that upgrade yet, you might want to see those too, that way you can ship them all together. Just a thought...
#29
+1 Looks great. I am probably going to get Fogs done up as well.
SMZ LED HEADLIGHT H11 H16 H8 H9 - H11 H8 H9 H16 - Fog Lights - Shop Application
SMZ LED HEADLIGHT H11 H16 H8 H9 - H11 H8 H9 H16 - Fog Lights - Shop Application
#30
+1 Looks great. I am probably going to get Fogs done up as well.
SMZ LED HEADLIGHT H11 H16 H8 H9 - H11 H8 H9 H16 - Fog Lights - Shop Application
SMZ LED HEADLIGHT H11 H16 H8 H9 - H11 H8 H9 H16 - Fog Lights - Shop Application
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echodigital (03-06-2017)
#31
Alright guys, vleds.com had a longer delay but my V3 Triton blinkers (front and rear) finally arrived today. I have videos showing the results, just ask. I also wanted to let you guys know that the install is a bit more difficult on our cars vs. other cars. The way Honda built the lenses and the location of wires is clean, but also makes it difficult for upgrades. If anyone needs help, I can walk you through what I did to keep this upgrade clean.
STOCK
VLEDS - They flash amber when blinker or hazard lights are in use then return back to 5K White while in driving mode.
SIDE BY SIDE
I only have a video on the rear so ask if you want to see it
STOCK
VLEDS - They flash amber when blinker or hazard lights are in use then return back to 5K White while in driving mode.
SIDE BY SIDE
I only have a video on the rear so ask if you want to see it
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Guerito (04-14-2017)
#33
Main troubles were room for the rear, and location in the front. Our rear lights are a super tight area. So there's a few things you have to do but it's not that bad. The front signals, since they are behind the bumper are a little pain to get too. Plus you have to zip tie the control box and wires to keep it clean. They are switchbacks white/amber. I got the 5K White because 6k won't match our HIDs. They look amazing in person in both modes. If you get them and need help just ask
#35
Vleds Products are absolutely Top Of The Line Products
I don't know what choice you will make I can tell you with certainty that Vleds products are top of the line as I have made many purchases from them over the years and have not yet to date have ever even had a failed led light etc...from them. I know as far as any kind of switchbacks there are no competitors for Vleds Triton V3 series from Vleds. I would not recommend any other source for led lights I Tried some license plate lights from Jdm Astar and have had the same bulb fail 3 different times went back to vleds should have know just wanted to try a lower price... You really do get what you pay for !
#36
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Rancher2005 (04-15-2017)
#38
Hi Christopher, I've enjoyed reading though your thread and appreciate you taking the extra time to share and explain your experiences. I just recently went through helping my son upgrade the lighting on his '97 4runner. We ended up going with Opt7's LED kit for HI/LO beams at about $110 and standard phillips LED bulbs for just a few bucks each. We were very happy with the OPT7 kit and satisfied with the Phillips. I have an '09 TL tech and would love to do the very same thing you have done but the set you have chosen is $200 for the DRL/HI beams and $120 for the switchbacks while Blaze9 used SMD flashbacks for $25.
I'm curious as to what the actually differences are. Did you come across something in your research or did you just choose to go all in for peace of mind?
I'm curious as to what the actually differences are. Did you come across something in your research or did you just choose to go all in for peace of mind?
#39
Hi Christopher, I've enjoyed reading though your thread and appreciate you taking the extra time to share and explain your experiences. I just recently went through helping my son upgrade the lighting on his '97 4runner. We ended up going with Opt7's LED kit for HI/LO beams at about $110 and standard phillips LED bulbs for just a few bucks each. We were very happy with the OPT7 kit and satisfied with the Phillips. I have an '09 TL tech and would love to do the very same thing you have done but the set you have chosen is $200 for the DRL/HI beams and $120 for the switchbacks while Blaze9 used SMD flashbacks for $25.
I'm curious as to what the actually differences are. Did you come across something in your research or did you just choose to go all in for peace of mind?
I'm curious as to what the actually differences are. Did you come across something in your research or did you just choose to go all in for peace of mind?
Last edited by Christopher Michael; 04-26-2017 at 10:47 PM.
#40
Thanks for starting this post CM. This helped me decide on LEDs for my car. I am going to post pictures of the 9005 and H11 (Fog lights) with LED this weekend as well. In the end, I chose this because I was in Canada.
Free Shipping To Canada And Usa For Putco 289005 - Silver-lux Led Kit - 9005 Pair | Tdot Performance
Free Shipping To Canada And Usa For Putco 280011 - Silver-lux Led Kit - H11 / H9 Pair | Tdot Performance
I got the anti-flicker module just in case as it was only $15 extra. It was worth it 'just in case'.
1. Try to get a weave heat sink. There are no moving parts to breakdown.
2. Have a 7.5 fuse just in case there is a problem with the DRL not working later.
3. LEDs are the way to go. The technology has changed a lot in the last 3-5 years. They are much now much brighter than the halogens. Don't buy cheap ones, you pay for what you get.
4. DRL in low and high beam is still pretty bright compared to halogens.
5. www.vleds.com's 9005 with weave heat sink appears to not be sold anymore.
P.S Thanks for posting the video of the rear signal light bulb change as well. More upgrades/mods in the future.
Free Shipping To Canada And Usa For Putco 289005 - Silver-lux Led Kit - 9005 Pair | Tdot Performance
Free Shipping To Canada And Usa For Putco 280011 - Silver-lux Led Kit - H11 / H9 Pair | Tdot Performance
I got the anti-flicker module just in case as it was only $15 extra. It was worth it 'just in case'.
1. Try to get a weave heat sink. There are no moving parts to breakdown.
2. Have a 7.5 fuse just in case there is a problem with the DRL not working later.
3. LEDs are the way to go. The technology has changed a lot in the last 3-5 years. They are much now much brighter than the halogens. Don't buy cheap ones, you pay for what you get.
4. DRL in low and high beam is still pretty bright compared to halogens.
5. www.vleds.com's 9005 with weave heat sink appears to not be sold anymore.
P.S Thanks for posting the video of the rear signal light bulb change as well. More upgrades/mods in the future.
Last edited by echodigital; 04-28-2017 at 10:50 AM.