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Old 11-24-2016, 12:13 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by RLX-Sport Hybrid
I did this a while ago and he obliged as I explained why I was asking him to do that. The HUD registered 30 mph as did his radar gun. So make of that as you will.
At 30 miles per hour, the difference would reasonably continue to register at 30 mph.

I'd say the picket will only notice a difference at higher speeds, like 80 mph and up. I suppose that if we just *remember* that problem, and set the ACC to 79 mph instead of 80 mph, it's just as well.
Old 11-24-2016, 12:52 PM
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^^
Are you entertaining the idea of going to a plus 0 size tyre George?

I know why RLX-Sport Hybrid did this.....would it be the same reason for you, too?

I ask because I know you are mostly against this sort of thing......
Old 11-24-2016, 06:36 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by pgeorg
^^
Are you entertaining the idea of going to a plus 0 size tyre George?

I know why RLX-Sport Hybrid did this.....would it be the same reason for you, too?

I ask because I know you are mostly against this sort of thing......
Just collecting facts and ideas. :-)

At the rate the OEM are wearing, I've still got 20,000 to go before I even think about it.
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Old 11-25-2016, 01:35 PM
  #44  
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Thank you for this. I'll definitely keep my eyes, ears, and butt peeled for further abnormalities.

Originally Posted by George Knighton
You will want to keep your eye and ear on this.

You said that after resetting the computer, it seemed to be fine, and you said that the transmission fluid looked okay.

There are three things to look out for.

There are two TSB that refer to the transmission and the torque converter going wonky.

This happens because there are conditions under which the transmission fluid can overheat because of how the car is being driving, causing the transmission fluid to overheat to a point that is just before the programming causes the extra cooling to cut in. Over time, this reduces the efficiency of the fluid to the point that it causes unusual shifting

After the first TSB is taken care of, there are conditions under which the torque converter will deliver symptoms like you described, causing further attention to be needed.

Both of those TSB are directly related to overheated transmission fluid, and both are easy remedied via a programming change.

There is a "quiet" bulletin that has not been elevated to a TSB, and this one has caused problems for me. It is related to the VCM rocker arm assemblies needing attention. They are still documenting this, and they aren't absolutely sure what is causing it, but it might be related to service personnel using oil additives despite the fact that American Honda has said over and over again not to use oil additives in the J Motors that have the VCM assemblies.

I think this one's a reach because of the RPM at which you said you were having difficulties.

But if this *is* partially responsible, it is going to happen to you again and will need to be taken care of.

My personal car is a KC2, so I'm not going to get the transmission problems. However, I did fall victim to the VCM rocker arm assemblies and they had to be replaced and the car was down for a considerable time.

I want to thank you for your exuberance over your new car, which has served to remind us that both KC1 and KC2 are really very nice vehicles.

:-)
Old 11-25-2016, 01:37 PM
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TINT!!



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Old 11-25-2016, 05:01 PM
  #46  
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Hmm. I noticed this after the tint guy left. Nicks in the rubber gasket at the bottom of the drivers rear window. I can't say for sure he did it, but I don't remember the rubber having nicks in it like this before. He was setting the tint on the exterior of the window temporarily to set the size. The passenger side looks OK. Grr. Anyone know what this part may cost and how laborious of an install it may be? I'm assuming it's fixed to the chrome trim piece so I'd be buying a new one of those?


Last edited by thunder04; 11-25-2016 at 05:07 PM.
Old 11-25-2016, 05:28 PM
  #47  
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I am sorry this happened, it is inexcusable if the tint guy did this.

To change that weatherstripping piece, you have to take the window out.

It is pretty extreme, but if you need the directions of how to do it, please let me know.
Old 11-25-2016, 05:35 PM
  #48  
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Here is the piece you need:


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Old 11-25-2016, 05:45 PM
  #49  
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Either the tint guy dinged the rubber seal with the corner of his squeegee (which would be odd on the outside of the door) or else it looks like somebody was trying to break into your car with a coat hanger(which doesn't makes sense on a rear door)????
Old 11-25-2016, 05:53 PM
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Thanks for the information!

My gut says he nicked it, but it's possible I overlooked this detail when I bought the car (I did buy it used). I'm hesitant to accuse him of it. He may just say it was like that when he started the job anyway. Though I picked the guy because he has 40+ really good reviews online...so I dunno. I don't have any pictures of the car that are close-up enough to tell if it's already damaged. I may see what the dealer would charge to replace it...I'm not sure I'm up to taking the door apart quite yet. Grr...

Originally Posted by pgeorg
I am sorry this happened, it is inexcusable if the tint guy did this.

To change that weatherstripping piece, you have to take the window out.

It is pretty extreme, but if you need the directions of how to do it, please let me know.
Originally Posted by pgeorg
Here is the piece you need:


Old 11-25-2016, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by hondamore
Either the tint guy dinged the rubber seal with the corner of his squeegee (which would be odd on the outside of the door) or else it looks like somebody was trying to break into your car with a coat hanger(which doesn't makes sense on a rear door)????
Well, I didn't watch him through the entire job, but when I'd peek in every once and a while he would have the tint tacked onto the exterior of the door. I suspect he was tacking it to the exterior of the window, trimming it, then removing it and installing it permanently on the interior side of the window. I just wish I knew without a doubt if he did it or not. Maybe I should just ask him about it. *sigh*
Old 11-25-2016, 06:17 PM
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pgeorg, I just spoke to someone in the service department at my local Acura dealership to find out what labor would cost and the guy said that he thinks the b-pillar trim would be the only thing that would need to be removed. From there, you remove the lower chrome trim piece. With that, he said it would just be 1 hour of labor ($120). Is he way off?
Old 11-25-2016, 06:27 PM
  #53  
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^^
I think so. The trim has clips that need to be pushed in, in order to come out. To be able to push those clips, you need access from inside the door panel on the other side of the glass.
They might be able to do it differently, but the service manual shows otherwise. I will post the directions for you....
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Old 11-25-2016, 06:32 PM
  #54  
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Here you go, maybe you should call them back and make sure they actually check.
Maybe there is an easier way....













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Old 11-25-2016, 06:37 PM
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Holy hell. I see what you're talking about. Those instructions don't even touch the b-pillar. Ugh.
Old 11-25-2016, 06:43 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by thunder04
Holy hell. I see what you're talking about. Those instructions don't even touch the b-pillar. Ugh.
Correct, I don't understand what the B-Pillar would have to do with this particular piece......
I think they misunderstood you....
Old 11-25-2016, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by pgeorg
Correct, I don't understand what the B-Pillar would have to do with this particular piece......
I think they misunderstood you....
I agree. Perhaps the guy was thinking the upper trim? Well, I first need to decide if I'm gong to accuse the tint installer of this and then go from there. It is what it is at this point.
Old 11-25-2016, 06:50 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by CadiGTi
Some advice, if you buy tires on-line ask about the tire warranty certificates. I have a 2012 RL and purchased new Michelin Premier A/S earlier this year (already put 25k miles on them...great tires in wet, dry, quiet, fuel economy). Purchased through DiscountTireDirect. They sold me 4 certificates for price of 3 (about $90). Got a screw in tire a few weeks ago and tire could not be repaired. Called DiscountTire and they shipped a brand new replacement Michelin to my Acura dealer. No charge and no question asked. Honor system. Great deal and peace of mind.

Enjoy the RLX!

ed
I have the Conti DWS06 on the RL & one of the volvos, the bridgestones on another Volvo and have experience with the Michelin sport AS. All are great tires but, the Michelins always seem to wear prematurely. The Conti's are great in snow but, slightly noisier. I have had good luck with pricing by using Costco as leverage. I wish they carried Contis because their warranty is no questions asked. In fact, I bought the Bridgestones there for a sons car & after a year discovered they put on a slightly smaller tire(my son originally picked up the car on his way back to college so I didn't check them), went back and they replaced the whole set free of charge after a year & roughly 13K miles.
Old 11-25-2016, 07:19 PM
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Looking more at the nicked weather stripping, it looks like that piece doesn't ever come into contact with the window. There is a piece under it that rests against the window that appears to be OK. Any clue what that exposed upper piece does? Perhaps it's cosmetic?
Old 11-25-2016, 07:23 PM
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Just left a message with the tint guy. Had my wife look at a photo I took of the car pre-tint and she thinks he did the damage. We'll see what happens...
Old 11-26-2016, 11:37 AM
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Alright. I talked to the guy who did the tint and he explained how he did the install. since the bottom of the window frame is straight, he just uses the end of the film and trims the sides and top. That makes sense. He said he noticed it earlier but didn't think to say anything. Given his reviews and he generally seems like a nice guy, I am inclined to believe him.

I guess I'll order the trim piece and save it for when I take the car in for service next or when my wife will give me a free weekend to take the door apart. It won't be the first time I've taken a door apart, but it'll be the first door I've taken apart that I really really really care about, lol. Looks like I can buy the trim piece online for sub $50. Or perhaps I should just leave it be? Am I being too picky? As much as I want to keep the car perfect, it will be driven many miles...so this won't be the last thing to happen to it...

Last edited by thunder04; 11-26-2016 at 11:39 AM.
Old 11-26-2016, 12:07 PM
  #62  
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I've seen similar nicks from overzealous/careless use of an ice/frost scraper on the windows, but in California??? I guess a bit of frost is possible at higher altitudes or far enough north??

I'd be tempted to leave the nicks as they are, since it doesn't look like the issue is more than cosmetic (and minor at that) and there is no guarantee that popping off a door panel won't result in a rattle or other issues down the road.
Just my two cents.
Old 11-26-2016, 02:28 PM
  #63  
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Where I live, if you park outside, it gets cold enough during the winter where your windows will ice up. But I would never scrape the back windows...just the windshield and drivers and front passenger windows. I'd let the defroster do its thing with the rear window and never touched the back passenger windows.

It is remotely possible that someone messed with my car in the parking garage at work (though I've only had the thing for a little over a week). I do park in a public garage. It's also possible I plain missed it when I bought it.

You are probably right...it's probably not worth the risk of causing issues in the door.

Originally Posted by hondamore
I've seen similar nicks from overzealous/careless use of an ice/frost scraper on the windows, but in California??? I guess a bit of frost is possible at higher altitudes or far enough north??

I'd be tempted to leave the nicks as they are, since it doesn't look like the issue is more than cosmetic (and minor at that) and there is no guarantee that popping off a door panel won't result in a rattle or other issues down the road.
Just my two cents.
Old 11-27-2016, 09:37 PM
  #64  
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Regarding the accuracy of your speedo, could you not compare the reading to the speed indicated on a gps?
If your car does not have a speed reading on your navi system, an inexpensive aftermarket gps would work.
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