The Ody's upper strut mounts are built into the firewall/cowl. It's pretty rigid already.

 

The radiator is out folks. Just like that, twelve more inches.

 

Nice hood support remove the hood?

 

haha. I'll get to it. I'm here by myself. I want to set it on towels on top of the luggage rack and strap it down.

 

Well, I instinctively wanted to call on this dreamer dreaming of a build... But then he went and actually started doing it.

Soooo.... Ghetto subbed for moar!

Good luck OP, I'm pulling for you. Let me know if you need a goat sacrificed for automotive fortune.

 

 

holy crap. Lol.

 

If there's one thing I can't stress enough. When doing something like this, go to Harbor Freight and get the $6 can of zip ties. I think I got this one six years ago for half price because the plastic kid was broken. They are the jam. For real.

 

Damn dude, that's smart AF...I never considered using it to hold stuff up like that so you know where it goes.

 

Not a whole lot to report tonight folks. Got the engine wiring and power steering disconnected and tucked outta the way. I've still got the throttle cable, exhaust, shifter cable, transmission wiring, break booster vacuum, and heater plumbing to disconnect. Not to mention the wheels, ball joints, and axles.

 

Any plans to do some sort of wire tuck at all?

Would love to see how clean the engine bay would look with minimal wiring......however, leaving it as is would be impressive enough when you pop the hood and see what's hiding under there.

 

Probably not. It seems like more work than I really care to do.

 

I don't blame you...
it's not my thing either!

 

almost spat my coffee out!

 

Lol

 

"Would you drive that car? I'd drive that car. I'd drive that car hard. I'd drive that car so hard."

 

So, I'm at the point of ordering parts for the 3.2. I'm going to get the Gates belt kit and probably the Asin water pump. What seals should I get and what manufacturer? I'm looking at the Timken front and rear crank seals and cam seals. In a perfect world, I'd do the clutch while I've got the engine out However, I'll probably have a look at it and make the decision then. I'm hoping to not have to touch it. In fact, I will admit that I am intimidated by the special tools needed.

What else should I pay attention to while I've got the engine on the stand?

 

If it were me, I'd probably stick with Honda OEM seals


Valve adjustment, tune up, new plugs seals, valve cover gaskets, Cam and crank seals, rear and front main seals. Maybe throw some carb cleaner on the Intake manifold and clean the EGR port while it's out. New TB gasket as well.


just throwing ideas out

 

The Aisin water pump actually has larger impeller blades than the OEM Yamada water pump. It's the OEM-supplier on plenty of other Honda engines, so I'd feel perfectly fine using it. In fact, I am.

 

Alright, I've located OEM Honda cam seal, front and rear crank seals (are they different from main seals? I thought they were the same thing) and an OEM water pump seal. I've got a gates timing belt set and Aisin water pump as well. I'm also looking at springing for the LUK flywheel and clutch kit, as well as, the OEM Honda clutch tools.

All in, it looks like its gonna cost around $1000

I'll take care of the valve adjustment and tune up once the motor's in place.

 

Does the 3.2 start fine? They're pretty bulletproof engines. I would just do the basics - timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment, plugs & plug seals, clean the EGR ports and have a look at the rear main seal. Throw a light weight crank pulley on there too.

 

I've read to use the OEM water pump seal even if you're using another pump. Do any of you know if they'll work together for sure?

The 3.2 starts and runs great. I've only driven it slowly up the driveway because the right lower control arm is bent and the strut is broken.

 

Can't say for certain if they are the same. I thought the main seals were between the trans/engine but i'm speculating

If you're talking about the CL and the part number is 51355-S84-A00
I have a used LCA right front that I bought a while ago.

If you're talking about the Ody, then I can't help

 

I'm just going to scrap the CL when I've taken what I can from it, which will prolly be a lot. No point in throwing any money at it.

 

I went ahead and ordered the timing belt parts and seals. I'm going to hold off on the clutch and tools until I know I need it. It cut the price from $1000 to less than $200.

 

The crankshaft main seal on the timing belt side is #24 on the link below. These usually do not leak at the TB change interval; however, yours might be.
OIL PUMP - OIL STRAINER for 2003 Acura CL COUPE

The rear main seal, #20 on the link below is the main culprit for leaking, which can occur at any time. I just had mine done when the clutch was changed back in Dec2015. The mechanic stated he put some RTV on the inner seat of the oil seal case assembly before pressing the seal in helps minimize potential leakage going forward; however, that remains to be seen.
CYLINDER BLOCK - OIL PAN for 2003 Acura CL COUPE

You can usually get the best price on the Luk08-047 clutch kit and/or the Luk DMF063 between Rockauto and Amazon. The clutch kit comes with the alignment tool. There is one expensive tool that the Helms recommends to use; 07AAE-P8E-A000 Pressure Plate Compressor; however, I'm told that the PP can be installed correctly without it.

 

Neither one of your links worked for me. Both said "Page Not Found"

 

The Forum must be blocking them, sorry.

Press the link, when 'page not found' window opens, go to the address bar and delete all of the acurazine bullshit up to the acuraoemparts.com address, and it will take you there.

 

OIL PUMP - OIL STRAINER for 2003 Acura CL COUPE

CYLINDER BLOCK - OIL PAN for 2003 Acura CL COUPE

 

Everything is disconnected now except the motor and transmission mounts. I'm done for the night. Gonna put my tools away and hang out with the kids. Stay tuned tomorrow for pics of the freshly liberated engine and transmission.

 

I changed my mind once I got out there. No matter what anyone tells you, it is possible to pull an Odyssey motor from above.

 

That's the CL then, from above?

 

No, that's the Ody from above. I'll start stripping the CL Monday or Tuesday.

The entire engine harness came out with the engine. I'm hoping but pretty sure the CL harness will do the same.

 

Damn. You just get busy don't you?

 

Putting in work! Nice job.

I almost put an offer on a 2003 aspec TL with a blown tyranny today because of you. I backed out becausea lack of tools, time, money, experience etc. Lol

 

I can't wait to see this thing chirp 3rd!!!

 

haha, lol.

me either.

 

I love this thread...
I must've misread it...I thought you said it IS impossible from above! Hence the cumfusion!

 

Umm... thread of the year?

 

Certainly "OTM". Might need some boost to fully become OTY.