Hello all,

While screwing round with my brakes the other day I noticed that my crossbeam on my front sub-frame has almost rotted through. I don’t have a picture, but it looks like the Picture in this thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...member-867198/

I have a 2003 | Acura TL | Automatic | non-S |
I believe the part I need is “ BEAM, RR. – 2003 ACURA TL ( 50200S0kA01 )”
http://parts.sonsacura.com/images/pa...ize/552844.jpg *SEE PART #1

Now… My deluged of questions!
I’ve searched the forums heavily on this subject, and did not find any specific DIY guides. Does anyone know if one exists?
Does this job require any special tools? Like a Engine hoist or an engine support bar, or can I get away with a floor jack?
Will I need to remove the Steering rack or can I wiggle around it?
Will I need to remove the Exhaust or can I wiggle around that also?
Should I get an alignment after I’m done?

If I do end up tackling this, I just might do a video or a DIY, but the video might just end up being 6 hours of me swearing 

Any information people can provide would be greatly appreciated.

 

have you checked youtube or eric the car guy???

obviously it will be MUCH MUCH easier on a lift.
but ive seen it done on your back and with jack stands

eric the car guy would be your best bet on youtube, as for most of us it will be easier and cheaper to have a shop change it

 

It's like 6 bolts. Not hard even on jack stands.

 

@Justnspace Yeah i've watched alot of eric's videos, they are really good. I was not able to find one talking about an 2nd gen TL's cross-member and subframe. I was hoping someone here had done it would have a video or a detailed write up.

@MilwaukeeDave Do you know if you have to remove the power steering rack and/or the exhaust pipe?

Thank you both for the reply's so far.

 

There clips to pop off that hold the PS lines on and the front motor mount gotta come with it as well but that's it.

 

Thinking of doing this as well

So does that mean we don't need to drain the PS fluid?

And is one jack enough to hold the engine + tranny balance wise?

 

Go to harbor freight and get a engine support. It will make life much easier.

 

If only,I am in Canada so no such store exists that i know of that however i could rent a engine jack maybe that would do the trick my garage quoted me about 900$ for everything labour and parts which is quite high i hink so i am trying to get around it esp cause i already changed the transmission myself ....

As we are on thsi topic ...so all that will have to be removed is the engine mount bolts and PS lines thats it? not the PS rack? no need to drain the PS system?

 

Can anyone Confirm if the PS rack, or the Exhaust has to be remove to complete this job?

Thanks for everyone's help so far.

 

You don't take off the rack or exhaust.

 

Awesome, that is good news

Thanks Dave!


Anyone have any other tips before I order the part and start planning for the job?

 

Leave the motor mount on the frame and just take off the top nut.

 

100% agree. I've basically done this job changing my transmission.

 

OK I've put this job off for way too long. I'm really ready to do this. I've ordered the back half of the front subframe and I'm committed.
While doing my final research for the job i was unable to find the torque specs for the 3 bolts that mate the two halfs of the subframe.
I also failed to find with any confidence the torque specs for the main two subframe bolts that appear to mount the subframe to the body of the car.

Does anyone have these torque specs? Also is it recommended replace the 2 subframe-to-body bolts with new ones?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

 

Just download the Service Manual. You'll be able to find all the torque specs for it. It also has a good diagram for reference points and such. It has instructions how to remove the K shaped front beam, but there's just a picture for the rear beam. Here's a link to it:

 

 

Thanks Iggy and karanx7 the screen shot and the url they will help alot!

I've been crawling under the car a lot trying to familiarize myself with everything before starting the job. I just don't get how you can remove the rear beam without removing the steering rack?
MilwaukeeDave mention that you don't need to take the rack out, but I can't visualize how that's possible.

Can someone confirm that you don't need to take out the rack?

 

I don't think it's possible, but I've never done it. The rack is below the rear subframe, so it should have to come out logically. Maybe MilwaukeeDave was talking about the front K subframe?

 

Front k beam just drops out, but rear beam needs rack dropped out of the way iirc.

 

Anyone have any tips on re-installing the subframe? Dropped the subframe for the AV6 swap and now i cant get it to line up. I got the bolts to line up but i cannot get the front engine mount stud to go through the front bracket on the engine. If i bolt up the subframe, the mount is way off towards the front of the car. I tried putting the stud through the bracket first and the bolting the back of the subframe up, but no dice, it won't line up. Unfortunately I don't have an engine hanger so i'm using a jack to jack the engine/trans up high enough and a trans jack to hold the subframe while i try to align it. Oh, and the car is on jack stands if that makes a difference. Any help is much appreciated.

 

Sounds like going to Harbor Freight and grabbing an engine hoist is your best option