Oh Sickest TL's '06 Royal Blue Pearl
#1241
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Holy shit, you shared pictures! I'm in shock
Looks absolutely fantastic, even more so with the coils installed!
Looks absolutely fantastic, even more so with the coils installed!
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (04-30-2016)
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (04-30-2016)
#1243
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
When we first set it down the rear was dumped lol.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 05-01-2016 at 09:24 AM. Reason: Merged Posts
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (04-30-2016)
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-01-2016)
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-01-2016)
#1247
Team Owner
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
Posts: 36,545
Received 6,470 Likes
on
5,162 Posts
Loving the new install.
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-01-2016)
#1248
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Sweet deal, Jeff...sorry about your fender, I've been awfully close to fuking mine up when wrestling and using my foot to push the lower down...
PS...if you loosen all rotational bushings before pulling assembly in/out...it'll not fight you as much and you'll have more clearance.
PS...if you loosen all rotational bushings before pulling assembly in/out...it'll not fight you as much and you'll have more clearance.
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-01-2016)
#1249
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
front for now. We measured 25'' from ground to fender I believe. How long for the springs to settle and how much more does it usually drop?
rear height was 25.5'' <br/><br/>she's cambered in pretty good. needs a alignment badly
looks pretty good. Still will prob need to make some adjustments later on. Just waiting for it to drop a little more
prob going to take some tinkering and spacers to get it 100% flush.
old height.. on stilts lol
To me thats fairly low lol. Ive never driven or had a lowered car so Im being conservative for the time being..<br/><br/>You can see the little ding on the fender
Last edited by Steven Bell; 05-04-2016 at 08:26 PM. Reason: Merged Posts
#1250
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
i thought you were going to drop it? haha jk! what's your hub to fender measurement?
looks good man, but i think you need to go a little lower (or maybe it's because it's not flush or you have high natural camber?). i consider my drop somewhat conservative and i'm at 24.75" all around. the springs will settle a little but prob not more than 1/4".
the car already looks so much meaner with the drop and wheels now! did you keep the tein preload or did you add to it? I ended up going with slightly more preload just to make sure my springs weren't loose (about 1-2mm more) but i may take it back to tein default settings in a few months
good progress this year!
looks good man, but i think you need to go a little lower (or maybe it's because it's not flush or you have high natural camber?). i consider my drop somewhat conservative and i'm at 24.75" all around. the springs will settle a little but prob not more than 1/4".
the car already looks so much meaner with the drop and wheels now! did you keep the tein preload or did you add to it? I ended up going with slightly more preload just to make sure my springs weren't loose (about 1-2mm more) but i may take it back to tein default settings in a few months
good progress this year!
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-01-2016)
#1251
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
i thought you were going to drop it? haha jk! what's your hub to fender measurement?
looks good man, but i think you need to go a little lower (or maybe it's because it's not flush?). i consider my drop somewhat conservative and i'm at 24.75" all around. the springs will settle a little but prob not more than 1/4".
the car already looks so much meaner with the drop and wheels now! did you keep the tein preload or did you add to it? I ended up going with slightly more preload just to make sure my springs weren't loose (about 1-2mm more) but i may take it back to tein default settings in a few months
good progress this year!
looks good man, but i think you need to go a little lower (or maybe it's because it's not flush?). i consider my drop somewhat conservative and i'm at 24.75" all around. the springs will settle a little but prob not more than 1/4".
the car already looks so much meaner with the drop and wheels now! did you keep the tein preload or did you add to it? I ended up going with slightly more preload just to make sure my springs weren't loose (about 1-2mm more) but i may take it back to tein default settings in a few months
good progress this year!
I just did ground to fender. And the front was 25'' so after they settle it'll go to about 24.75''? I prob will go lower but I just wanted to get it home and parked without any issues. Our roads are really bad here so we just went with this height for now. If I lower it slightly more will I need to get another alignment??
And yea we did the same thing for the preload just gave it a hair more.
Set all the dampening to 8 clicks
#1252
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
just giving you a hard time man haha. i think about 24.75 - 25" is a good drop height because it allows the car to look good while still maintaining full functionality and allows you to drive aggressive when you want. i've been lower and you seriously worry about every dip in the road, etc...not fun. i don't think it will settle another .25" but just wait and see.
i don't know if you'll need spacers just yet, if i were you i would try to set your rear camber so that it looks more flush. especially with the spc camber arm it will look more flush with the fender. try putting your rear camber to -1 to even -.75 to make it look flush in the rear.
also, you need to get an alignment every time you adjust the height. i have a lifetime alignment so it's not a big deal, but if you don't then i would wait until you dial in the height you like and then get it aligned.
i don't know if you'll need spacers just yet, if i were you i would try to set your rear camber so that it looks more flush. especially with the spc camber arm it will look more flush with the fender. try putting your rear camber to -1 to even -.75 to make it look flush in the rear.
also, you need to get an alignment every time you adjust the height. i have a lifetime alignment so it's not a big deal, but if you don't then i would wait until you dial in the height you like and then get it aligned.
#1253
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
Ill leave the height for now and just get the alignment guys to get the camber all dialled in to make it more flush then determine is spacers are needed
And your right about the drop. I still want full function of the car. I didnt throw all these parts at it to just creep around everywhere lol
And your right about the drop. I still want full function of the car. I didnt throw all these parts at it to just creep around everywhere lol
#1254
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
Sweet deal, Jeff...sorry about your fender, I've been awfully close to fuking mine up when wrestling and using my foot to push the lower down...
PS...if you loosen all rotational bushings before pulling assembly in/out...it'll not fight you as much and you'll have more clearance.
PS...if you loosen all rotational bushings before pulling assembly in/out...it'll not fight you as much and you'll have more clearance.
The car came apart really well actually. Was pretty surprised. The toe arms needed to be cut clean out but that wasn't really a surprise after reading about guys commonly running into that.
Undoing the rear end link is the key to having clearance and movement for the rear
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-01-2016)
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-02-2016)
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-02-2016)
The following users liked this post:
DarkTower19 (05-02-2016)
#1260
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
Almost is right! Still got a lot of work to do to get it hella flush yo
Just left the car at the honda dealer to get an alignment. They were giving me a hard time because nothing is factory. I said bitch stfu do you want my money or not? just get my tires straight! LOL
Just left the car at the honda dealer to get an alignment. They were giving me a hard time because nothing is factory. I said bitch stfu do you want my money or not? just get my tires straight! LOL
#1261
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
Almost is right! Still got a lot of work to do to get it hella flush yo
Just left the car at the honda dealer to get an alignment. They were giving me a hard time because nothing is factory. I said bitch stfu do you want my money or not? just get my tires straight! LOL
Just left the car at the honda dealer to get an alignment. They were giving me a hard time because nothing is factory. I said bitch stfu do you want my money or not? just get my tires straight! LOL
#1262
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
thats essentially what I said. I just got them to do provincial inspection last week and it passed with all the OEM stuff in. Then I just threw a ton of parts at it so technically its in even better shape now lol
#1267
Three Wheelin'
Lookin good here!!
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-02-2016)
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-02-2016)
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-02-2016)
#1270
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
not rotas
Thanks man, yea I'm going to try 15mm spacers all around but I think it might rub, we will see
Thanks man!
Yea the red calipers are kinda ugly but not too bad, I liked them at first no I'm just like meh lol. And yes I do have the RL calipers but still working on them slowly. Prob wont have all that on till next year. Brakes on there now are literally brand new so gota wear those out first
got the car aligned. Man does the rear ever look a lot better now, nice and flush. Ill get a pic tomorrow, its raining today
Yea the red calipers are kinda ugly but not too bad, I liked them at first no I'm just like meh lol. And yes I do have the RL calipers but still working on them slowly. Prob wont have all that on till next year. Brakes on there now are literally brand new so gota wear those out first
got the car aligned. Man does the rear ever look a lot better now, nice and flush. Ill get a pic tomorrow, its raining today
Last edited by Oh Sickest TL; 05-02-2016 at 03:07 PM.
#1272
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
and oh my front camber is 0.4 and 0.5 which is out of spec. But in order to adjust it to get it to 0 ill have to take it up take off tires, adjust it, put tires on, drop it, put it on alignment machine, see if its in spec, if its not do the whole thing over again.
What should I have it set at?
What should I have it set at?
#1273
Burning Brakes
Came across your picture thread and love the color
Your drop looks really really nice!
The alignment tech's should be able to adjust the camber on the front while it's on the alignment rack. I think 0.4 to 0.5 negative camber is fine, adding a little camber on Honda's double wishbone suspension will help when you drive hard to minimize the amount the front tires go into positive camber.
Your drop looks really really nice!
The alignment tech's should be able to adjust the camber on the front while it's on the alignment rack. I think 0.4 to 0.5 negative camber is fine, adding a little camber on Honda's double wishbone suspension will help when you drive hard to minimize the amount the front tires go into positive camber.
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-03-2016)
#1274
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
thanks man!
What I meant to say was that my front camber is 0.5 and 0.4 positive , when putting in skunk 2 control arm we just set it in the middle but apparently its a tad off the middle lol
What I meant to say was that my front camber is 0.5 and 0.4 positive , when putting in skunk 2 control arm we just set it in the middle but apparently its a tad off the middle lol
#1275
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Whoah...you have POSITIVE camber?
This is why you have to play with it before taking in for alignment, man...let car settle...mess with it, play around, drive, change THEN align. Tires aren't gonna die in one drive.
I have those on this car, and had the upper adjustable balljoint on the black car and neither of them were accessible with the wheels on the car. I always try and adjust my camber myself FIRST, then leave the toe to the boys at Acura.
Anyway...no biggy, learning pains.
This is why you have to play with it before taking in for alignment, man...let car settle...mess with it, play around, drive, change THEN align. Tires aren't gonna die in one drive.
I have those on this car, and had the upper adjustable balljoint on the black car and neither of them were accessible with the wheels on the car. I always try and adjust my camber myself FIRST, then leave the toe to the boys at Acura.
Anyway...no biggy, learning pains.
#1276
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
Whoah...you have POSITIVE camber?
This is why you have to play with it before taking in for alignment, man...let car settle...mess with it, play around, drive, change THEN align. Tires aren't gonna die in one drive.
I have those on this car, and had the upper adjustable balljoint on the black car and neither of them were accessible with the wheels on the car. I always try and adjust my camber myself FIRST, then leave the toe to the boys at Acura.
Anyway...no biggy, learning pains.
This is why you have to play with it before taking in for alignment, man...let car settle...mess with it, play around, drive, change THEN align. Tires aren't gonna die in one drive.
I have those on this car, and had the upper adjustable balljoint on the black car and neither of them were accessible with the wheels on the car. I always try and adjust my camber myself FIRST, then leave the toe to the boys at Acura.
Anyway...no biggy, learning pains.
we set the skunk 2 ball joint in the middle and installed it. So there was no way to know what the real angle actually is until you bring it in for the alignment unless you have laser eyes that can compute angles.
The read out I got says 0.4 and 0.5 positive camber on the front which is only a half degree out from spec which I thought was pretty good by just eyeballing it.
They said the only way they can make the adjustment on the front camber was to put it on the hoist, adjust to what they think is 0 degrees or -0.5 degrees then put it on the alignment rack to see the true angle.
So with the + camber in the front at 0.5 degrees is that really bad?
#1277
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
whoa i didn't realize you had positive camber either...i've never seen a TL with positive camber on here haha.
the range is 0 to -1 for the front....most lowered people have -1.5 or a higher negative for the front. if i were you i'd change that to -.5 since you can without rubbing. i would not go positive camber.
i haven't had the front camber kits but i thought you could do it with the wheels on. if not, then that makes it a bit more complicated and to me isn't worth having a camber kit for the front if you can't adjust the camber while it's being aligned (too much work).
what J was referring to (i think) is that you can eye ball it pretty good, especially if it's positive camber.
if they are telling you to leave it you might as well sell it on the BM and buy oem. it's meant for you to get exactly what you want (which should probably be -.5 in the front). it's actually getting you out of spec alignments and provides no benefit, it's like paying more for making your car "worst" (for lack of a better term)
the range is 0 to -1 for the front....most lowered people have -1.5 or a higher negative for the front. if i were you i'd change that to -.5 since you can without rubbing. i would not go positive camber.
i haven't had the front camber kits but i thought you could do it with the wheels on. if not, then that makes it a bit more complicated and to me isn't worth having a camber kit for the front if you can't adjust the camber while it's being aligned (too much work).
what J was referring to (i think) is that you can eye ball it pretty good, especially if it's positive camber.
if they are telling you to leave it you might as well sell it on the BM and buy oem. it's meant for you to get exactly what you want (which should probably be -.5 in the front). it's actually getting you out of spec alignments and provides no benefit, it's like paying more for making your car "worst" (for lack of a better term)
Last edited by sockr1; 05-03-2016 at 03:01 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-03-2016)
#1278
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
k I jist called them and told them I'm coming tomooro to show them
so that skunk 2 kit can be adjusted while on the alignment rack?
as far as I know its just a allen key with 4 allen screws on the plate that adjusts it. it should be pretty visible with the car on the rack lol
fuck I hate incompetent dealerships or they were just trying to gouge me hard
I basically paid for a 4 wheel align and got a 2 wheel alignment
so that skunk 2 kit can be adjusted while on the alignment rack?
as far as I know its just a allen key with 4 allen screws on the plate that adjusts it. it should be pretty visible with the car on the rack lol
fuck I hate incompetent dealerships or they were just trying to gouge me hard
I basically paid for a 4 wheel align and got a 2 wheel alignment
Last edited by Oh Sickest TL; 05-03-2016 at 03:09 PM.
#1279
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
but i would research and try to find out first...if you can't, it almost seems not worth it especially since you aren't that low and oem would be fine for you.
regardless, you want to be within oem specs with a camber kit otherwise they serve no purpose
The following users liked this post:
Oh Sickest TL (05-03-2016)
#1280
Jeff
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 5,728
Received 815 Likes
on
726 Posts
this was my thought exactly. I think you need a long allen wrench extension to get to it. hence why the alignment guy was prob saying we gota keep lifting it up and down etc etc, he prob just said fk i can't reach it lol