Compared to the old one, yes it is... one thing i do notice is that sometimes theres a slight jump when going from high speed to low speed, then accelerating again... i think that is normal for most auto transmission... sometimes i feel the same with my odyssey so i would assume it is a normal characteristic...

Other than that, no apparent weird noises or sound when shifting either when in full auto or ss...

Next step for me is to observe any leaks for a few days...

Oh, and a bit of concern... when i bought the av6 from the yard, they cleaned the housing using pressure washer... now i am afraid that some water or moisture may be present jn the unit... while we tried to empty and discard the old fluid, how can i confirm that water inside shouldnt be a worry for me?

 

I wouldn't worry unless the fluid looks a bit milky in any way.
Regarding the shifting, not sure if what you explain is the same but if I take off pretty quick (say running up to 4500 rpm or higher thru gears), after it shifts to 4th (and only 4th does it occur), it will shift- the rpms drop but then a split second later jump back up as if I gave it more gas but I havent. Don't honk the old trans ever did that. It's not like it's a bad thing just seems a little odd

 

You should be noticing the stupid fast shifts now.. specially on D5 the AV6 is way waaaaaayyy Faster in shifting than the B7WA.

 

Yup... I think it only happens on 3rd going to 4th... it's not bad, and I think it is common for a lot of automatic cars to have this form of shift shock... but it doesn't really happen when I am in SS and I lift my foot off the gas when shifting...

btw, what kind of mount is the one on the rear side of the transmission that also bolts down to the subframe... I thought it is also called a transmission mount but when I ordered the part from autozone, they said the tranny only has one mount in the front, which I did replace... I was unable to source that part so I did not manage to change it...

 

There are 2 trans mounts front and rear.
You can see them in this picture (Top left, Middle):

 

Thanks. I exactly told autozone that it should have two but they insisted it only had one... so i ended up with just replacing the front one.. good thing the rear one was still in good shape...

Now just learning more about the car... i checked the tips and trick thread but did not find anything useful... anything i need to know in terms of functions features etc???

Does the cruise control button and radio button illuminate?

 

I haven't really commented on this thread since I haven't done the conversion myself (I have a 2000 despite what my username might imply).

However, the wheel buttons don't light up. It sounds like you basically got a TL for under $2,000 which is a great deal.

Cool tips:

Your mirror will tilt down in reverse depending on which which way you have the selector switch on the driver side door open.

Headlights aren't automatic but will shut off after 15 seconds when you shut the driver side door if left on.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head, but overall it's a good car.

 

Thanks. I did see the tilting option on the passenger side when reversing. Good to know about the headlight as my wife tends to leave them on and drains power on our previous cars.

Does it have any option to enable some sort of auto door lock when we hit a certain speed or put it in gear?

Yes, I would probably consider myself very fortunate for getting the car under budget... I guess the perks of being a teacher is working on a limited budget so i end up getting stuff for cheaper than usual...

 

No, but you can get an after market system that will do that.

I think your car falls under the airbag recall. Register the car at Acura.com and it'll let you know if you need to have any recalls done.

 

It does have an open recall for it. Just need to find time to bring it in.

 

Question, am I supposed to hear a beep when locking the car from the remote? What do I need to check if there is, indeed suppose to beep and mine doesn't?

 

that is the confirmation beep.. it only sounds when you double click the lock button on the FOB.
it tells you the car is fully locked and the alarm is set.

 

Yeah, mine does not beep... what should i check first? I can confirm that the fob works as it locks/unlocks the car... i get the blinking of the brake lights when unlocking the car... but no beeps when pressing the lock buttom twice on the fov

 

In all my experience here.. I would suggest that the first thing you look for is the Hood Latch... It has been the most common issue for the alarm to either go off randomly or not set the alarm at all.

 

Not sure if this is the case on the 2002, but on the 2000 there's a delay. Wait a second before pushing the lock again. Do the lights flash at all when pushing lock? They're supposed to do that too.

 

When locking - No lights, no beep, but doors will lock... The security light that supposed to blink does not light up... leads me to believe the alarm is not arming...

When unlocking - park lights and brake lights blink, and driver door unlocks with one press on the fob, unlocks all doors if I press the FOB twice...

I am going to read the car's manual today and see what else I can find, but any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Well, upon further searching and reading, I think I have a lead as to why my alarm is not arming and not getting the beeping sound...

I think I need to check my hood latch sensor... Now, looking at posts and threads, I could not locate an excat part number for the sensor itself, besides the whole latch assembly... is this sensor not being sold by itself? I don't want to buy a whole latch assembly just for the faulty sensor...

 

It is not sold separately, Its part of the latch itself.. Try a junkyard for this part.

 

I got the alarm to work... for a brief moment... The security LED blinked and I did hear the beep... unfortunately, it only happened once, and I cannot replicate it again... it happened when I popped the hood open and pushed the lock button twice on the FOB...
At least now I know that the alarm system is functional except that I need to problem solve the hood latch... I will start by trying to disconnect it first when I get the chance...

 

its a simple ground continuity perhaps if you can disassembly the unit and sand the ground so it might make it work again.. So far the only way to fix it has been replacing the hood latch. If you do try to fix it, do a DIY on it.. As nobody has done it before.

 

So I wanted to verify something tonight before you buy that part. If I click the lock button on my remote and the door isn't latched shut the locks won't move at all. That makes me think you've got a problem other than latch. I am not sure if they changed that from 2000 to 2002. However, I somewhat remember my locks doing the same thing in 2009 and when I replace the remote battery it fixed the problem. My memory is a little off on that giving it was 2009 so I can't promise that will work, but I remember something weird with the lights not flashing.

 

try the simplest things first, fob battery is cheap at autozones.

 

I thought that's what it is supposed to do... not lock the doors when it is not fully shut? I will start by cleaning all the gunk out by using simple green, then using that electrical contact spray and lube the thing...

but i will try to see what happens when a door is not shut and press the lock on the FOB...

 

That's correct. If a door isn't shut the locks wont with the FOB, but will with the button on your door. If you're hood isn't latching it's the same thing as the driver side door being open. So if the locks move when you push lock everything is latched up.

By the way you still need to post pictures of the car.

 

Well today, I've confirmed that the issue with my alarm is the hood latch sensor... it won't arm when the hood is physically closed/latched, but when I open it, the alarm will arm and I can hear the beep and see the led light to confirm... as skirmich suggested, I will try to DIY a probable solution by cleaning the sensor and maybe salvaging the part so buying the whole thing may be unnecessary....

On a different note, for those who did the AV6, do you feel/notice when shifting from 3rd to 4th? I ask because I can certainly feel it in my car... some type of shift shock... not to drastic but enough to get noticed... only happens when i am in d5 and not in ss...

 

Yes it seems the AV6 Torque Converter Lockup engages faster with the AV6 since the TL ECU is tuned for the B7WA Converter there seems to be a mismatch in behavior when it locks. It is not a malfunction its the TC Lockup feeling a tad aggressive do not worry..

 

I wonder if most of us who did the swap has the same feel of the TC lockup when changing to 4th gear... Is there a way to reset/reteach the ECU besides just disconnecting the battery? In some cars, there are certain steps/procedures where it can be done without disconnecting the battery...

 

Here's some the day I picked it up from her former owner... Pretty much stock and will need a good detailing... Will try clean her up this weekend... Need to pull my DA polisher and do some Meguiars UC, clay then wax... It will be a long day to clean her up...

 

Looks like it's in great shape, congratulations!

 

Thanks...

the only thing though is that I am recently plagues with the inadvertent alarm issue... it was not working when I first got it it but after finagling with the latch, I got it to work... and so I thought... last night, at around 10:30 PM, my wife told me the car was alarming... went downstairs, turned it off... however, each time I try to lock the car, regardless of whether I lock it from the FOB, from the driver side lock button, or through the keyhole, my alarm arms... afraid that it will inadvertently sound again, I had to settle for leaving one of my car doors unlocked so as the alarm won't arm... did the trick quite well until this morning...

fast forward... went to work, parked the car... locked the car with the FOB but didn't hear the beep nor see that the security light was on... in my mind it was better that way so I don't have to deal with it if the alarm goes off... as I was walking towards inside the building, BEEEEEEP!!!! BEEEEEEEEEP!!!! BEEEEEEEEEP!!!

The alarm triggered itself again... weird as I don't remember leaving it armed but it did so by itself... so I had to leave the car again with one door being unlocked... URGH!!!

 

Time to get that hood latch

 

Disconnected the sensor for now... alarms still works... I thought I saw someone on the CL forum that did a DIY using a different leaf-lever switch for his sensor...

 

Besides the alarm issue how do you like the car?

 

Loving it! I drove it to work the whole of last week... this week, I am using my oldy but goody Celica so as to keep it from rotting... My kids actually gave it a name and I like that fact that I can get my 4yo son involved in getting the tiny issues in the car fixed... he helped me replace my rearview mirror and he popped some clips for me when I was fixing the alarm issue... the car is not that old where everything become too fragile...

the inside cabin is well sealed and you can barely notice the engine idling... wind noise is so minimal, suspension is tight... plus I anticipate that maintenance shouldn't be that dreadful since it is pretty much a honda... plus, knowing that the car is pretty much a driver's car, and not a ran by computers, doing a DIY on certain things are easier...

 

Glad you're loving the car.

 

well I decided to drive the TL again this morning and noticed that I am hearing this humming sound coming from the front part of the dash (most probably inside the hood), I will check the air intake hoses and see if there is any leak or loose clamps as it was suggested here in the forum that it may be the culprit...

and yeah, I do notice that my air filter box has the broken tabs closest to the engine...

 

If the box has a broken tab it will create a humming noise.. Press on the filter box top to close the gap and if the noise goes away you will need to get the lower box part.

 

Well, I may have mis-spoken... the noise that I was pertaining to is not really the hum coming from the airbox... I did what Skirmich suggested but I found out that the hum is something along the line of a faint electrical noise... not static... the noise is noticeable from the very front of the dash... can it be from the power being fed to the injectors???

 

Is in a whine that increases in pitch as you speed up?

 

nah... its not like a radio static... the whine is constant, but very faint... maybe i'm just hearing things but I am certain I did not hear it prior...