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Hoping for some solid advice on two possible issues.
Background: This is my wife’s car. Not driven hard, and while it picked up more highway miles early in its life, these days it mostly goes to the mall and the supermarket (shorter trips).
Potential issue #1: Using Oil?
This past September, the car was due for an oil change. I just happened to check the oil the day prior to the oil change to see “how black it was” (MID was saying 20%), and I noticed the level was around half way between “full”, and “one qt. low”. I figured maybe the dealer on the prior change had left it short, and never gave it another thought. The day after the oil change, I checked the level and it was up to full. This past week, for no apparent reason, I decided to check the oil level and found that it was at the very bottom of the stick.
I called the dealer and they said to add 1 qt. and bring it in. I added 1 qt. of Mobil 1 5w-20 and it came up to this level.
I then added ¾ of another qt. to bring it to full, so I was down 1.75 qt. after 2521 miles.
I have since driven the car 250 miles, and noticed no change in the level. Maybe I don’t have enough miles yet. One theory (you guys tell me I’m nuts): the dealer used the wrong grade oil (0w-20)?. Don’t know if that makes a difference. I have no leaks that I can see, and there is no smoke or smells anywhere.
Potential issue #2: Engine knocking noise?
So now that I know there is a potential issue with oil, I have been driving this car exclusively, and keeping the radio off. I have heard a knocking sound while applying power (like when the light changes to green and you move out). It only seems to happen at low RPM like when you apply power slowly in traffic. If I accelerate harder, I don’t hear it, and also I don’t hear it as soon as the car picks up any speed (for the sake of argument, let’s say it stops when the car shifts up from 1st gear).
Being paranoid about the lubrication, I have read up on piston slap, valve knock, etc. I also noticed the car makes the noise when you start it, BUT THE NOISE KICKS IN ABOUT 1 MINUTE AFTER YOU START THE CAR (see video), which is the part that has me puzzled because if it was lubrication I would think it would happen the other way (hear the noise first, then no noise).
So (sorry for the long and confusing post) my questions are:
At 250 miles with no change in oil level, do I really have a problem or is it too soon to tell.
What on earth is this noise. Piston?. Valve?. Pulley?. None of the above, and I just never heard it before because I drive with the radio on all the time?.
Well it does appear that when warm you get a higher reading on the stick, which now, of course, means I am overfilled. The warm reading is about 3 mm above the top mark. Probably not a huge deal but I think at this point I will just get an oil change and start over.
All engines use an oil pump, which circulates oil.
if checking cold, you will get inconsistent reads.
My past Monte Carlo actually needed to have the engine cold.. In fact most domestic old cars needed the engine to not be even warm to check te oil as people tend to do pre-checks before leaving to a road trip or work. The manual stated that the Cold Check was done because the oil will rest in the oil pan completely when cold which makes sense, That is why a lot of people finds weird that Honda engines need to be warm because Oil will rest in the Heads first once shut off.
That changed with time though.. Since I don't know all procedures for other brands I cant say for sure now.
So I had the oil changed anyway. They checked and no leaks. They also put me on the "oil consumption test". I asked if I should check it myself or bring it to them. They said it didn't matter as long as all the checks were done the same way. In other words, you can measure consumption rate hot or cold because you are looking for a base level (today), and then measure the departure from there over time / mileage. The key is to do all the measurements the same way (per their statement).
They also said 1qt per 3K miles would be OK, but anything above that (like 1 qt per 1K miles) would indicate a problem that would have to be looked into and addressed. So, either I (a) have no problem (b) have the best honest dealer (c) Acura realizes their prior stance of 1 qt per 1K miles is wrong.
Finally they said burning oil would be surprising on the MDX, but not unexpected on the TSX, which is known to have a problem. Oddly enough my TSX is rock solid.
Acura 3.7L engines in 2010+ MDX's, and 2009 TL's have been having oil consumption issues as they use VTEC to control both intake and exhaust valves along with using Nikasil Liners to reduce friction.
Some TL owners are having to add a quart every 600miles! Honda deems 1quart/1k or more excessive consumption and they replace the short block of the engine and heads.
Folks have noticed that the 5W-20 oil tends to shear within 2K miles of an oil change and then the burning starts. Using European Mobil 0W-40 and as well 5W-30 has had good results with a few folks.
Also replace your PCV valve, if that's bad it'll cause oil consumption.
Run seafoam in your oil before the next change and see if helps the noise.
So, still having the same issue with the oil. Down 1 qt. after 2500 miles. Now I want to look into replacing the PCV and if that doesn't work, then I will consider ending my relationship with Honda / Acura. I have driven cars for 43 years, and I have never, ever had to add oil between changes. I am not about to start this BS now, but I will consider a fix especially when the part is like $20.
That said, can you guys help me with the location of the PCV on this vehicle. Is it by the rear or by the front ?. Is this it ?
Just a follow up: since the oil change, I have checked every 500 miles. No change at 500, 1000, 1500, 2000, then BAM !, at 2500 down 1 qt. This is why I am thinking the PCV is sticking.
Just a follow up: since the oil change, I have checked every 500 miles. No change at 500, 1000, 1500, 2000, then BAM !, at 2500 down 1 qt. This is why I am thinking the PCV is sticking.
It's on the front cylinder head (where the oil cap is):
If your PCV valve was sticking it'd be burning oil all the time, not just after 2500 miles. It sounds like the oil is shearing and then burning, caused by the shitty nikasil liners in the engine. Try running a heavier oil that has a higher HTHS (indication of shear resistance).
12-27-2015, 12:28 PM
