So I do have an update. Here is what was replaced.

Front compliance bushings X2 (factory)
Front shock absorber bushings X2 (Moog)
Front lower arm bushings X2 (factory)
Rear Yamashita bushings X4 (factory) [these are in the knuckles]
Rear toe and camber arms X4 (Ingalls)
All nuts, bolts and washers associated with the above parts

Here are my thoughts. The car definitely feels different. I don't think it's drastic but it is a bit better. When I hit large bunps/dips/holes, the car does do a better job of nit wandering off. It seems to want to absorb the road a little better and not bounce the wheels slightly off the road. My example would be, if you are breaking over bumps and your suspension is too stiff you will get some wheel hop. I had that before and it was obviously due to my 130,000 Mike bushings because that is almost all the way corrected.

The car is also now about 1/2" higher on all 4 corners. I was at 24" ground to fender and bow I am just about 24.5"

Overall I do think it has helped. Next I will probably replace the other 4 arms in the rear as I do not believe you can just replace the bushings within the arm. I don't think they are sold separately.

 

Thanks for the update. It sounds like it really is the sum of all parts and not just one or two bad parts. That kind of sucks.

 

It was probably more on the LCA. They were completely torn.

 

Ok I just got my car back from having my transmission replaced... again... the 2nd one failed on me within 13k miles. And I will tell you this.... everytime I get my car back I feel its a bit more firmer in the front end. I really think it has to something with the front subrame and it being tightened back up after its dropped for tranny exchange.

Im' thinking maybe just replace all the hardware holding the subframe to the body ... along with the bushings and see where I get with that. Problem is I dont want to spend too much because I'm starting to lose faith in this cars reliability now.

Luckily this time my tranny was covered 100% under the 3year 36k warranty I got with the prior replacement. But if it happens outside the warranty I can't justify dropping 3-4k on a tranny at this point. Just doesn't make financial sense.

 

Off topic: How much did you pay for the tranny swap with that warranty? They told me 5,700 to get the tranny swapped with the 3yr, 36k warranty and 4,200 for the rebuild and 12month , 12k mile warranty...So I took it to a tranny shop instead.

On topic: @twigglius my compliance bushings are torn which I know so when I break over uneven roads the pull is pretty ridiculous. Have you noticed any improvement when braking or less pull?

 

Well I just took my car off the lift an hour ago. The steering is definitely much tighter than before. While the subframe was out it was discovered that my 2 lower transmission mounts were out as well as my rear engine mount. The dealer didn't have one the lower mounts so I'll get that put in on Tuesday. I am getting an alignment in the morning. The car feels much better than when I bought it as 87k miles. It is now just below 150k

 

May have missed it but what did you replace? just the compliance bushings?

 

Everything except the lower control arm bushings.

 

How much did that run you? If you don't mind me asking...

 

$250...he posted it on page 3...

 

If I had to pay standard labor rates I would not have done it. That's at least $600 in labor

 

^^^^ That's one hell of a deal. Especially with the steering rack involved.

 

I am glad someone mentioned the Fastline/PCI compliance bearings. These are so awesome...maybe the car feel not like a new one, but a better one. These, along with the other bushings being in good shape, and som good chassis bracing, will make your car feel so solid and confident...highly recommended. A solid and direct chassis is the basis for all good handling! Glad you guys are looking at maintaining yours.

 

Just vouching for Marcus and his compliance bushing for the 3rd gen TL. It's awesome. They helped to tighten things up a bit. It's a confident feeling with the handling. Can't wait to put some summer performance tires back on it.

Check out the install (kinda) - https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...707888&page=28

 

I love mine. (04 Accord V6) It made a night and day difference for me. I will be ordering a 2nd set for my wife's TL when it is time for her bushings to be replaced. Hell, I would even offer anyone to drive my car if they like just so they can experience them. I am sure that if they value accurate and communicative handling the bearings will sell themselves.

 

I'm considering these but the cost is deterring me away. Especially after paying for a rebuilt tranny. My car feels sloppy and its annoying, I'll most likely go with the OEM bushings unless there is some kind of sale.

 

Sorry to hear about your tranny Due_Diligence, hopefully you fix the sloppy feel for good so you can enjoy to love the car all over again.

Did you rule out the axle? All component look good?

 

200k bushings are good

 

Thanks I appreciate it I "believe" the axles are fine, if they were bad would it really contribute to the sloppiness? To sum it up my TL feels like a boat. It's not as bad when it's just me in the car but today I had three other ppl and the handling/steering was awful.

I'm just hesitate to get anything done because I want to know exactly what's wrong instead of spending money which results in no fix.

I bought brand new OEM assembled shocks for the front cuz Midas said that was the issue. I put them in and it barely helped.

The next route I'm about to take is ordering the compliance bushings (51394-SEP-A01) and the shock absorber bushings (51810-SDA-A01) for the LCA and have someone install them (I don't even want to mess with the lower ball joint from threads I've read)

I've always had a thought that maybe a motor mount is bad and causes the car to feel sloppy when cruising around 60mph, but when I took it into Honda they never mentioned anything about motor mounts. They said compliance bushings were torn.

Well there's my rant lol happy 4th!

 

Usually the axle on TL don't last longer than 80k miles and most member on acurazine replaced before the 100k mark. Most common is the driver axle and some member have reported that the driver axle its close to some heat source (not sure) and this is the one that cause that vibration on 60+mph. But its recommended to replace both side.

Don't worry about the motor mount unless you feel vibration at the cabin at idle. Have a really good mechanic to inspect the rack and pinion thoroughly and other component. If any evidence of leak then you have to replace it.

When you say that the TL feel like a boat, this sound that its the alignment problem and have the rear toe set to ZERO. Believe or not that make a huge difference in handling. Other culprits its the LCA that cause that uneven feeling going side to side on highway.

I understand your part about not spending money unless you find the real culprit.

 

Huh? Where are you getting this from?

 

I don't get vibrations while driving on the highway, but if i'm taking a slight left or right at 60+ and hit a bump in the road the car will sway side to side. It almost feels like the car is jumping and when it lands, it tries to gain its stability. I'm hoping the bushings fix this issue.

I also took it to a place to get it aligned before summer started and told them to made sure the toe is zero, and when he checked it everything was already aligned (toe at zero).

The only thing that triggered the need to replace my axles was a symptom that occurred during the winter time. Whenever it got near or below freezing temps my first couple left turns there will be a clicking noise from the passenger side but it would eventually go away after the car warmed up. I have yet to hear the noise since winter.

The shop I'm taking my car to for the bushings specializes in Honda/Acura and they said they would gladly check all of these things for me. I know some members on here took their cars here.

I just want to get all the maintenance out the way so I can do at least one mod. Might just buy some OEM visors so I can have some satisfaction lol

 

I know that feeling lol but Im sure that its the LCA bushing that will be you last problem so you can start modding.

 

I believe they are the culprit too, it looks like they are torn pretty bad.

 

So one question I've had for a while is why you dont stock this particular version of the bushing. It is offset and gives an increase in caster which is what Hondas usually suffer from a lack of. At least with regard to adjustment.


http://www.kingmotorsports.com/p-428...da-accord.aspx

 

Well I just ordered the compliance bushings and OEM visors from hansel acura.

It might be a couple weeks until I have time to get them installed. Once they're in I'll be sure to comment on any difference. I'm hoping this helps at least 50% of the sloppiness that I feel, I really don't want to buy a remanu steering rack because I've put a good amount of money in this car already

 

Anyone....should you get a front end alignment if they replace the compliance bushings and lower ball joints?

I'm looking to get this done today.

 

Nope not required. You're not changing the geometry of the suspension

 

^^^ thank you, it seems that everywhere I call they want to do an alignment too.

 

Quick update, the car feels significantly better it's way smoother driving on the roads no more clunking at all. Braking feels a bit better also. Steering feels better but I can tell still needs work (steering rack). The next things on list are rear motor mount and possibly axles.

 

If you are buying axles then go with raxles.

 

^^^^ that's exactly the route i planned on going. I just need to do some research on how to install it. I hope it is relatively straight forward, with the occasional detours.

 

Hello, my 08 TL-S is requiring compliance bushings replaced, dealership is quoted me for $850 including alignment? is this reasonable? if not, whats the best option?

 

Diy

 

The dealership is likely going to press in new bushings to your existing arms?

You have some options, as sampled thusly:

1.) Buy whole new OEM control arms from bernardiparts, curry acura, or hondapartsnow, etc. Have them installed at a GOOD independent shop. Good, meaning they know not to tighten control arm bolts while the car is suspended off the ground, etc. Price should be similar to/less than what the dealer quoted (including parts).

2.) Have the dealer do their thing.

3.) Option 1...except for with moog or mevotech or beck arnley arms from rockauto. The bushing quality isn't as good as OEM. But...they're cheap. Like 1/4 the price of the factory arms.

 

spazzyTL-s....how handy r u?

sandan

 

chcek out this video


buy these 3 things below...

buy 2 of below...

https://smile.amazon.com/Genuine-Acu...liance+bushing

and one of below...

https://smile.amazon.com/Schley-Prod...C2S0BK6HET9DGZ

and some elbow grease and very simple DIY that tool works like magic...

I recently did this and returned the rockauto moog LCAs that I bought....now my bushings are OEM and yes....only fully tighten the bushings bolts after lowerring the wheels to the floor with the weight of the car on the LCA....i did this in reversey where I raised the car by the LCA and that gave me room to tighten the bolts ...it is called "CHOCKING THE BUSHINGS" i think...

hope this helps...

Sandan