3rd Gen TL PnP amplifier upgrade
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3rd Gen TL PnP amplifier upgrade
Product Details:


Cost: $298 plus $10.50 USPS Priority Shipping within the U.S.. We'll ship to Canada but you need to PM me with your postal code.
Payments: Payment is taken through PayPal. All I need is your email address. Once I have that I'll send you a PayPal invoice. When you're ready to submit payment click the "PAY NOW" button in the email.
Discount: 5% discount toward our other products when you purchase this upgrade. Good time to get our custom subwoofer enclosure at a discount!
Product Info and Warranty: This upgrade includes a brand new Rockford Fosgate Punch Series amplifier. The amplifier has a 1 year direct exchange warranty. The plug and play harness is covered by a lifetime workmanship warranty. There is no coverage for misuse, damage or faulty install.
All details subject to change.
- This is a plug and play amplifier upgrade that fits in the factory amp location. (behind passenger kick panel)
- This provides more power to your factory speakers. The result is better sound clarity at higher volumes. The improvement in performance is outstanding and a huge difference from the factory amp.
- This upgrade was designed to compliment our custom subwoofer enclosures and other upgraded subwoofer systems in the TL.
- This comes out of the box ready to install. Unplug your factory amp and plug this in. All settings are preset. No need to run wires. No need to dismantle your car. Simple and effective.


Cost: $298 plus $10.50 USPS Priority Shipping within the U.S.. We'll ship to Canada but you need to PM me with your postal code.
Payments: Payment is taken through PayPal. All I need is your email address. Once I have that I'll send you a PayPal invoice. When you're ready to submit payment click the "PAY NOW" button in the email.
Discount: 5% discount toward our other products when you purchase this upgrade. Good time to get our custom subwoofer enclosure at a discount!
Product Info and Warranty: This upgrade includes a brand new Rockford Fosgate Punch Series amplifier. The amplifier has a 1 year direct exchange warranty. The plug and play harness is covered by a lifetime workmanship warranty. There is no coverage for misuse, damage or faulty install.

All details subject to change.
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Installation Instructions! Yay!
Remove the passenger kick panel. It will pop off if you pull it toward the drivers side if the car.

There are three 10mm bolts that hold the factory amp in. Two bolts on the bottom and one on the top. Remove those bolts. Pull the amp away from the car and unplug the two plugs.

Plug in your new amp.

Grab a 10mm socket or nut driver and one of the bolts you took out when removing the factory amp.
Place the new amp and mounting plate up on the wall where the old amp was mounted. Insert your 10mm bolt and tighten it down snug. Tilt the top of the amp forward a little.

Find your amp turn on wire. It is YELLOW with a RED stripe and comes from the BROWN plug next to the amp.

Crimp on the supplied red connector provided. This needs to contact the copper wire so make sure it's a good connection.


Attach your RED remote turn on wire from the amp harness to that RED connector that you just crimped on. It just plugs in.

Pop your plastic kick panel back on. The BLUE "pop-it" will snap into the hole on the amps mounting plate. Done.


ALL DONE!!
Your plug and play harness will have one RCA pigtail. This can be used to run RCA signal into your aftermarket subwoofer amplifier. No hi/low converter or LOC needed
Remove the passenger kick panel. It will pop off if you pull it toward the drivers side if the car.

There are three 10mm bolts that hold the factory amp in. Two bolts on the bottom and one on the top. Remove those bolts. Pull the amp away from the car and unplug the two plugs.

Plug in your new amp.

Grab a 10mm socket or nut driver and one of the bolts you took out when removing the factory amp.
Place the new amp and mounting plate up on the wall where the old amp was mounted. Insert your 10mm bolt and tighten it down snug. Tilt the top of the amp forward a little.

Find your amp turn on wire. It is YELLOW with a RED stripe and comes from the BROWN plug next to the amp.

Crimp on the supplied red connector provided. This needs to contact the copper wire so make sure it's a good connection.


Attach your RED remote turn on wire from the amp harness to that RED connector that you just crimped on. It just plugs in.

Pop your plastic kick panel back on. The BLUE "pop-it" will snap into the hole on the amps mounting plate. Done.


ALL DONE!!
Your plug and play harness will have one RCA pigtail. This can be used to run RCA signal into your aftermarket subwoofer amplifier. No hi/low converter or LOC needed
All I can say is sweet!
What are the extra wires for? 1 looks like a line out (oh, sub & center channel). What about the red and black with the crimp caps? And the other two with the crimp caps? How long is the build time from order to delivery?
TR
06 NBP
What are the extra wires for? 1 looks like a line out (oh, sub & center channel). What about the red and black with the crimp caps? And the other two with the crimp caps? How long is the build time from order to delivery?
TR
06 NBP
Last edited by trayner76; Oct 18, 2011 at 08:07 PM. Reason: NA
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Group Buy.... ROUND 1
The first 5 buyers will be on the roster below. Cost will be $298 plus $10.50 shipping. Turn around time is a few days from payment date. These buyers will receive a $40 refund when they ship me their factory amplifier. The factory amp will ship in a SMALL USPS Priority box... if you do this...
Remove all external phillips screws....


Slide the amp board out of its aluminum case....


Remove the two screws that hold the board to the metal bracket...

Take this raw amp board...

..... and ship it in this box....

Word?
First 5 buyer roster.
1.. nicourt (paid and shipped)
2.. dwb993 (awaiting payment)
3..
4..
5..
The first 5 buyers will be on the roster below. Cost will be $298 plus $10.50 shipping. Turn around time is a few days from payment date. These buyers will receive a $40 refund when they ship me their factory amplifier. The factory amp will ship in a SMALL USPS Priority box... if you do this...
Remove all external phillips screws....


Slide the amp board out of its aluminum case....


Remove the two screws that hold the board to the metal bracket...

Take this raw amp board...

..... and ship it in this box....

Word?
First 5 buyer roster.
1.. nicourt (paid and shipped)
2.. dwb993 (awaiting payment)
3..
4..
5..
Im confused again lol
Only 1 rca connection coming from this amp to be used for a sub amp? I have 2 rca connections coming off a loc from the oem sub speaker wire to my sub amp. How does that work?
BUT...then I see that 16gauge black wire that is used for the factory sub. In my case, if I want to keep control of my aftermarket sub gain using the factory head unit, would I just use the 16gauge speaker wire and disregard the the single rca connector coming off your amp?
Only 1 rca connection coming from this amp to be used for a sub amp? I have 2 rca connections coming off a loc from the oem sub speaker wire to my sub amp. How does that work?
BUT...then I see that 16gauge black wire that is used for the factory sub. In my case, if I want to keep control of my aftermarket sub gain using the factory head unit, would I just use the 16gauge speaker wire and disregard the the single rca connector coming off your amp?
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by libert69
Im confused again lol
Only 1 rca connection coming from this amp to be used for a sub amp? I have 2 rca connections coming off a loc from the oem sub speaker wire to my sub amp. How does that work?
BUT...then I see that 16gauge black wire that is used for the factory sub. In my case, if I want to keep control of my aftermarket sub gain using the factory head unit, would I just use the 16gauge speaker wire and disregard the the single rca connector coming off your amp?
Only 1 rca connection coming from this amp to be used for a sub amp? I have 2 rca connections coming off a loc from the oem sub speaker wire to my sub amp. How does that work?
BUT...then I see that 16gauge black wire that is used for the factory sub. In my case, if I want to keep control of my aftermarket sub gain using the factory head unit, would I just use the 16gauge speaker wire and disregard the the single rca connector coming off your amp?
The black 16 gauge speaker wire is speaker level signal. Meaning that it would connect to the output side of an aftermarket amplifier if you wanted to power the factory subwoofer. So... the RCA marked "S" would plug into the input side of an aftermarket amp. And the 16 gauge speaker cable would connect to the output side of your aftermarket amp. This would retain control and usage of the factory sub from the factory deck. This is unlikely though because most people will run an aftermarket sub with an aftermarket amp and not use the 16 gauge cable that feeds the factory sub. Another thing that we may nix from the PnP harness.
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Some subwoofer amps have 1 RCA input and some have 2. We use a splitter or Y adapter if needed. We may make a change to the harness and just have two RCA plugs for the subwoofer.
The black 16 gauge speaker wire is speaker level signal. Meaning that it would connect to the output side of an aftermarket amplifier if you wanted to power the factory subwoofer. So... the RCA marked "S" would plug into the input side of an aftermarket amp. And the 16 gauge speaker cable would connect to the output side of your aftermarket amp. This would retain control and usage of the factory sub from the factory deck. This is unlikely though because most people will run an aftermarket sub with an aftermarket amp and not use the 16 gauge cable that feeds the factory sub. Another thing that we may nix from the PnP harness.
The black 16 gauge speaker wire is speaker level signal. Meaning that it would connect to the output side of an aftermarket amplifier if you wanted to power the factory subwoofer. So... the RCA marked "S" would plug into the input side of an aftermarket amp. And the 16 gauge speaker cable would connect to the output side of your aftermarket amp. This would retain control and usage of the factory sub from the factory deck. This is unlikely though because most people will run an aftermarket sub with an aftermarket amp and not use the 16 gauge cable that feeds the factory sub. Another thing that we may nix from the PnP harness.
So, I would put a rca y splitter on your single rca connection coming off this amp harness and run those rca's into my sub amp correct? Ill lose control over adjusting the sub gain from the stock headunit using this method.This is where Im getting confused. If I wanted to retain the ability to control my aftermarket sub's gain with the stock headunit while using your amp, why cant I just use the 16gauge black wire coming off your harness and run that into my loc that goes into the amp for my sub?
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OK
So, I would put a rca y splitter on your single rca connection coming off this amp harness and run those rca's into my sub amp correct? Ill lose control over adjusting the sub gain from the stock headunit using this method.
This is where Im getting confused. If I wanted to retain the ability to control my aftermarket sub's gain with the stock headunit while using your amp, why cant I just use the 16gauge black wire coming off your harness and run that into my loc that goes into the amp for my sub?
So, I would put a rca y splitter on your single rca connection coming off this amp harness and run those rca's into my sub amp correct? Ill lose control over adjusting the sub gain from the stock headunit using this method.This is where Im getting confused. If I wanted to retain the ability to control my aftermarket sub's gain with the stock headunit while using your amp, why cant I just use the 16gauge black wire coming off your harness and run that into my loc that goes into the amp for my sub?
The 16 gauge black speaker wire is only to be used if you want to run your factory subwoofer in the rear deck. Otherwise disregard that sucker.
Originally Posted by badboy68
so how many watts is this new amp now?
First 5 buyer roster.
1.. nicourt (paid and shipped)
2.. dwb993 (awaiting payment)
3.. maddsiick (paid)
4..
5..
ok this question has more then likely been answered but what size is the factory Sub?
Is there a direct aftermarket swap out that can use the same mounting?
If I want to use the factory sub for the time being and I use the 16 gauge wire do I need to add anything else the PnP harness passed the power through from the factory head?
Also can I dont plan to add an amp for the factory center channel so I can just use the smaller pig tail to run to that correct?
Is there a direct aftermarket swap out that can use the same mounting?
If I want to use the factory sub for the time being and I use the 16 gauge wire do I need to add anything else the PnP harness passed the power through from the factory head?
Also can I dont plan to add an amp for the factory center channel so I can just use the smaller pig tail to run to that correct?
ok this question has more then likely been answered but what size is the factory Sub?
Is there a direct aftermarket swap out that can use the same mounting?
If I want to use the factory sub for the time being and I use the 16 gauge wire do I need to add anything else the PnP harness passed the power through from the factory head?
Also can I dont plan to add an amp for the factory center channel so I can just use the smaller pig tail to run to that correct?
Is there a direct aftermarket swap out that can use the same mounting?
If I want to use the factory sub for the time being and I use the 16 gauge wire do I need to add anything else the PnP harness passed the power through from the factory head?
Also can I dont plan to add an amp for the factory center channel so I can just use the smaller pig tail to run to that correct?
As far as replacing the sub in the stock location...you should do a search as it's been done before.
Travis!
Hey it's Lisha. I would love to jump on this group buy! Would you be able to add me to the list? I need to set up a new paypal account, so it will take some time to get verified and all that. Will this be okay? I'll let you know as soon as my account is up and ready.
Hey it's Lisha. I would love to jump on this group buy! Would you be able to add me to the list? I need to set up a new paypal account, so it will take some time to get verified and all that. Will this be okay? I'll let you know as soon as my account is up and ready.
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Travis!
Hey it's Lisha. I would love to jump on this group buy! Would you be able to add me to the list? I need to set up a new paypal account, so it will take some time to get verified and all that. Will this be okay? I'll let you know as soon as my account is up and ready.
Hey it's Lisha. I would love to jump on this group buy! Would you be able to add me to the list? I need to set up a new paypal account, so it will take some time to get verified and all that. Will this be okay? I'll let you know as soon as my account is up and ready.
And just to clarify. It should be no problem swapping the input from the factory sub over to an aftermarket amplifier to power a bigger sub? In my case, because I'm swapping out my factory head unit... does it mean that i will be losing power to the center channel?
So there is power from this amp to run the center and stock sub (6 channels) from this amp Correct? How much power can the stock speakers withstand. I'm thinking of just swapping the amp out 1st b4 swapping out the speakers. Thisn maybe all I need. Guys who are ordering now plz plz post your opinion on the amp and what stereo set-up youre running.
The single RCA is low level signal from the deck. It's controlled by the subwoofer level control on the factory deck. That single RCA marked "S" will plug into the input side of your aftermarket amp. This will retain the subwoofer level control from your factory radio.
The 16 gauge black speaker wire is only to be used if you want to run your factory subwoofer in the rear deck. Otherwise disregard that sucker.
The 16 gauge black speaker wire is only to be used if you want to run your factory subwoofer in the rear deck. Otherwise disregard that sucker.
Now I understand lmao
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Sounds good. My paypal account is ready to go. Do I just wait for your email with payment instructions at this point?
And just to clarify. It should be no problem swapping the input from the factory sub over to an aftermarket amplifier to power a bigger sub? In my case, because I'm swapping out my factory head unit... does it mean that i will be losing power to the center channel?
And just to clarify. It should be no problem swapping the input from the factory sub over to an aftermarket amplifier to power a bigger sub? In my case, because I'm swapping out my factory head unit... does it mean that i will be losing power to the center channel?
I'll shoot you the PayPal invoice for the amp upgrade ASAP. When you're ready to submit payment just click the "PAY NOW" button.
Originally Posted by ParaSurfer1979
So there is power from this amp to run the center and stock sub (6 channels) from this amp Correct? How much power can the stock speakers withstand. I'm thinking of just swapping the amp out 1st b4 swapping out the speakers. Thisn maybe all I need. Guys who are ordering now plz plz post your opinion on the amp and what stereo set-up youre running.
Originally Posted by libert69
Thanks for writing that in english for me Now I understand lmao
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
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First 5 buyer roster.
1.. nicourt (paid and shipped)
2.. dwb993 (paid)
3.. maddsiick (paid and shipped)
4.. lishanese (awaiting payment)
5..
Who is next? One slot left! For now....
1.. nicourt (paid and shipped)
2.. dwb993 (paid)
3.. maddsiick (paid and shipped)
4.. lishanese (awaiting payment)
5..
Who is next? One slot left! For now....
You'll want to use the subwoofer output on your new deck and run that RCA cable straight back to the subwoofer amp. Yes, you'll lose your center channel which is not needed anyway.
I'll shoot you the PayPal invoice for the amp upgrade ASAP. When you're ready to submit payment just click the "PAY NOW" button.
I'll shoot you the PayPal invoice for the amp upgrade ASAP. When you're ready to submit payment just click the "PAY NOW" button.
Btw, payment has been sent!! Thanks, Travis!
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,376
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From: Gig Harbor, WA.
First 5 buyer roster.
1.. nicourt (paid and shipped)
2.. dwb993 (paid)
3.. maddsiick (paid and shipped)
4.. lishanese (paid)
5.. badboy68 (awaiting payment)
All 5 slots are full! Two are shipped so far. Will have two more shipped ASAP!
What happens next?
1.. nicourt (paid and shipped)
2.. dwb993 (paid)
3.. maddsiick (paid and shipped)
4.. lishanese (paid)
5.. badboy68 (awaiting payment)
All 5 slots are full! Two are shipped so far. Will have two more shipped ASAP!
What happens next?
- We wait for feedback and make adjustments if needed.
- Testing on a small center channel amp to retain navigation prompts.
- Once feedback is considered we'll roll out round two!
Review
Awesome...I get the first review! 
I have nothing to say but good things about this upgrade. Travis, you have greatly outdone yourself here. This is definitely a major upgrade from the stock amplifier. Now we gotta get this center speaker hooked up and we'll be back in business!
I did have to do some troubleshooting with mine as the remote wire was not powering on the amp but after about 30 minutes I was able to isolate the issue to the remote wire feed. Just ended up using my own remote wire to turn the amp on, wired it to a feed that powers up when the car turns on.
Other than that, the sound quality is amazing through the stock speakers. Had I known it would have sounded this good I wouldn't have ordered new speakers for car, there already on their way though so I'll most likely put them in to take advantage of the added power from this amp.
Mounting was easy and simple, ran into this black box looking thing that was attached to my amp, didnt know what this was since it was not in the instructions, then I realized it was just a casing to run the wires neatly. You can see the black case in the pics below. I ended up removing the case totally and seperating the wires so i could place the amp in securely.
Sub Control - AMAZING! I feel like i have better control over my subs now and the clarity of the bass is amazing. Bypassing the stock amp and going from the headunit to the sub amp (alpine pdx-m12) in the trunk was an A+ move. The subs hit better, easier to control from the head unit now that im not adjusting two amps to get the right sound. I cant stress how the clarity of my subs and my speakers are so much better!
THIS UPGRADE IS DEFINITLY WORTH IT if you're looking to upgrade your sound. The amp compliments my 2 12" Alpine Type-R Subs, drowning out the sound of the sub so that I can hear my music and feel my bass without actually hearing it thump and being the center of attention in the car. The volume and increase in clarity is amazing as well. I recently installed the ATLP exhaust system and usually while driving I can only hear my subs and my exhaust, now I hear my music, feel my bass and feel the roar of the exhaust in my shifter.
Here's some install pics:

Here you can see the black casing i was referring to earlier. Sorry for the mixup Travis, I thought it was an actual device.



My Sub Setup, Self Made Custom Enclosure inspired by JPTL04!



If your looking to upgrade on a budget, this is your solution, especially if you dont have alot of time to spend on upgrading your system. And if your working on creating a new sound system, this is a good start.

I have nothing to say but good things about this upgrade. Travis, you have greatly outdone yourself here. This is definitely a major upgrade from the stock amplifier. Now we gotta get this center speaker hooked up and we'll be back in business!
I did have to do some troubleshooting with mine as the remote wire was not powering on the amp but after about 30 minutes I was able to isolate the issue to the remote wire feed. Just ended up using my own remote wire to turn the amp on, wired it to a feed that powers up when the car turns on.
Other than that, the sound quality is amazing through the stock speakers. Had I known it would have sounded this good I wouldn't have ordered new speakers for car, there already on their way though so I'll most likely put them in to take advantage of the added power from this amp.
Mounting was easy and simple, ran into this black box looking thing that was attached to my amp, didnt know what this was since it was not in the instructions, then I realized it was just a casing to run the wires neatly. You can see the black case in the pics below. I ended up removing the case totally and seperating the wires so i could place the amp in securely.
Sub Control - AMAZING! I feel like i have better control over my subs now and the clarity of the bass is amazing. Bypassing the stock amp and going from the headunit to the sub amp (alpine pdx-m12) in the trunk was an A+ move. The subs hit better, easier to control from the head unit now that im not adjusting two amps to get the right sound. I cant stress how the clarity of my subs and my speakers are so much better!
THIS UPGRADE IS DEFINITLY WORTH IT if you're looking to upgrade your sound. The amp compliments my 2 12" Alpine Type-R Subs, drowning out the sound of the sub so that I can hear my music and feel my bass without actually hearing it thump and being the center of attention in the car. The volume and increase in clarity is amazing as well. I recently installed the ATLP exhaust system and usually while driving I can only hear my subs and my exhaust, now I hear my music, feel my bass and feel the roar of the exhaust in my shifter.

Here's some install pics:
Here you can see the black casing i was referring to earlier. Sorry for the mixup Travis, I thought it was an actual device.

My Sub Setup, Self Made Custom Enclosure inspired by JPTL04!
If your looking to upgrade on a budget, this is your solution, especially if you dont have alot of time to spend on upgrading your system. And if your working on creating a new sound system, this is a good start.
Last edited by maddsiick; Oct 23, 2011 at 12:22 AM. Reason: Forgot to add something
Awesome...I get the first review! 
I have nothing to say but good things about this upgrade. Travis, you have greatly outdone yourself here. This is definitely a major upgrade from the stock amplifier. Now we gotta get this center speaker hooked up and we'll be back in business!
I did have to do some troubleshooting with mine as the remote wire was not powering on the amp but after about 30 minutes I was able to isolate the issue to the remote wire feed. Just ended up using my own remote wire to turn the amp on, wired it to a feed that powers up when the car turns on.
Other than that, the sound quality is amazing through the stock speakers. Had I known it would have sounded this good I wouldn't have ordered new speakers for car, there already on their way though so I'll most likely put them in to take advantage of the added power from this amp.
Mounting was easy and simple, ran into this black box looking thing that was attached to my amp, didnt know what this was since it was not in the instructions, then I realized it was just a casing to run the wires neatly. You can see the black case in the pics below. I ended up removing the case totally and seperating the wires so i could place the amp in securely.
Sub Control - AMAZING! I feel like i have better control over my subs now and the clarity of the bass is amazing. Bypassing the stock amp and going from the headunit to the sub amp (alpine pdx-m12) in the trunk was an A+ move. The subs hit better, easier to control from the head unit now that im not adjusting two amps to get the right sound. I cant stress how the clarity of my subs and my speakers are so much better!
THIS UPGRADE IS DEFINITLY WORTH IT if you're looking to upgrade your sound. The amp compliments my 2 12" Alpine Type-R Subs, drowning out the sound of the sub so that I can hear my music and feel my bass without actually hearing it thump and being the center of attention in the car. The volume and increase in clarity is amazing as well. I recently installed the ATLP exhaust system and usually while driving I can only hear my subs and my exhaust, now I hear my music, feel my bass and feel the roar of the exhaust in my shifter.
Here's some install pics:

Here you can see the black casing i was referring to earlier. Sorry for the mixup Travis, I thought it was an actual device.



My Sub Setup, Self Made Custom Enclosure inspired by JPTL04!



If your looking to upgrade on a budget, this is your solution, especially if you dont have alot of time to spend on upgrading your system. And if your working on creating a new sound system, this is a good start.

I have nothing to say but good things about this upgrade. Travis, you have greatly outdone yourself here. This is definitely a major upgrade from the stock amplifier. Now we gotta get this center speaker hooked up and we'll be back in business!
I did have to do some troubleshooting with mine as the remote wire was not powering on the amp but after about 30 minutes I was able to isolate the issue to the remote wire feed. Just ended up using my own remote wire to turn the amp on, wired it to a feed that powers up when the car turns on.
Other than that, the sound quality is amazing through the stock speakers. Had I known it would have sounded this good I wouldn't have ordered new speakers for car, there already on their way though so I'll most likely put them in to take advantage of the added power from this amp.
Mounting was easy and simple, ran into this black box looking thing that was attached to my amp, didnt know what this was since it was not in the instructions, then I realized it was just a casing to run the wires neatly. You can see the black case in the pics below. I ended up removing the case totally and seperating the wires so i could place the amp in securely.
Sub Control - AMAZING! I feel like i have better control over my subs now and the clarity of the bass is amazing. Bypassing the stock amp and going from the headunit to the sub amp (alpine pdx-m12) in the trunk was an A+ move. The subs hit better, easier to control from the head unit now that im not adjusting two amps to get the right sound. I cant stress how the clarity of my subs and my speakers are so much better!
THIS UPGRADE IS DEFINITLY WORTH IT if you're looking to upgrade your sound. The amp compliments my 2 12" Alpine Type-R Subs, drowning out the sound of the sub so that I can hear my music and feel my bass without actually hearing it thump and being the center of attention in the car. The volume and increase in clarity is amazing as well. I recently installed the ATLP exhaust system and usually while driving I can only hear my subs and my exhaust, now I hear my music, feel my bass and feel the roar of the exhaust in my shifter.

Here's some install pics:
Here you can see the black casing i was referring to earlier. Sorry for the mixup Travis, I thought it was an actual device.

My Sub Setup, Self Made Custom Enclosure inspired by JPTL04!
If your looking to upgrade on a budget, this is your solution, especially if you dont have alot of time to spend on upgrading your system. And if your working on creating a new sound system, this is a good start.
I've got a question, though... I got my aftermarket deck installed yesterday and I can already tell that it's a huge improvement over the factory deck. However, replacing the factory deck will cause me to lose control over the factory sub, correct? But it should still be hooked up?? I'm getting a heck of a lot of bass from the speakers. Almost too much for JUST the regular speakers without the help of the sub. I could be wrong tho... I'm not sure how the installer hooked everything up.
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I should note.... That black wire cover can be thrown away. I actually forgot that it was there because I always pop it off and toss it right off.
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Roger. Sorry for the delay. I had a nasty cold this weekend.
Feeling better today.
Sounds like the installer didn't connect the subwoofer output on the radio to the factory subwoofer signal wires.
Feeling better today.
Originally Posted by lishanese
I've got a question, though... I got my aftermarket deck installed yesterday and I can already tell that it's a huge improvement over the factory deck. However, replacing the factory deck will cause me to lose control over the factory sub, correct? But it should still be hooked up?? I'm getting a heck of a lot of bass from the speakers. Almost too much for JUST the regular speakers without the help of the sub. I could be wrong tho... I'm not sure how the installer hooked everything up.
Yeah, I don't think he connected the sub to the radio's output. I told him to run the wires for the aftermarket sub while everything is taken apart so he wont have to go through the hassle of taking apart the dash a second time.
Awesome...I get the first review! 
I have nothing to say but good things about this upgrade. Travis, you have greatly outdone yourself here. This is definitely a major upgrade from the stock amplifier. Now we gotta get this center speaker hooked up and we'll be back in business!
I did have to do some troubleshooting with mine as the remote wire was not powering on the amp but after about 30 minutes I was able to isolate the issue to the remote wire feed. Just ended up using my own remote wire to turn the amp on, wired it to a feed that powers up when the car turns on.
Other than that, the sound quality is amazing through the stock speakers. Had I known it would have sounded this good I wouldn't have ordered new speakers for car, there already on their way though so I'll most likely put them in to take advantage of the added power from this amp.
Mounting was easy and simple, ran into this black box looking thing that was attached to my amp, didnt know what this was since it was not in the instructions, then I realized it was just a casing to run the wires neatly. You can see the black case in the pics below. I ended up removing the case totally and seperating the wires so i could place the amp in securely.
Sub Control - AMAZING! I feel like i have better control over my subs now and the clarity of the bass is amazing. Bypassing the stock amp and going from the headunit to the sub amp (alpine pdx-m12) in the trunk was an A+ move. The subs hit better, easier to control from the head unit now that im not adjusting two amps to get the right sound. I cant stress how the clarity of my subs and my speakers are so much better!
THIS UPGRADE IS DEFINITLY WORTH IT if you're looking to upgrade your sound. The amp compliments my 2 12" Alpine Type-R Subs, drowning out the sound of the sub so that I can hear my music and feel my bass without actually hearing it thump and being the center of attention in the car. The volume and increase in clarity is amazing as well. I recently installed the ATLP exhaust system and usually while driving I can only hear my subs and my exhaust, now I hear my music, feel my bass and feel the roar of the exhaust in my shifter.
Here's some install pics:

Here you can see the black casing i was referring to earlier. Sorry for the mixup Travis, I thought it was an actual device.



My Sub Setup, Self Made Custom Enclosure inspired by JPTL04!



If your looking to upgrade on a budget, this is your solution, especially if you dont have alot of time to spend on upgrading your system. And if your working on creating a new sound system, this is a good start.

I have nothing to say but good things about this upgrade. Travis, you have greatly outdone yourself here. This is definitely a major upgrade from the stock amplifier. Now we gotta get this center speaker hooked up and we'll be back in business!
I did have to do some troubleshooting with mine as the remote wire was not powering on the amp but after about 30 minutes I was able to isolate the issue to the remote wire feed. Just ended up using my own remote wire to turn the amp on, wired it to a feed that powers up when the car turns on.
Other than that, the sound quality is amazing through the stock speakers. Had I known it would have sounded this good I wouldn't have ordered new speakers for car, there already on their way though so I'll most likely put them in to take advantage of the added power from this amp.
Mounting was easy and simple, ran into this black box looking thing that was attached to my amp, didnt know what this was since it was not in the instructions, then I realized it was just a casing to run the wires neatly. You can see the black case in the pics below. I ended up removing the case totally and seperating the wires so i could place the amp in securely.
Sub Control - AMAZING! I feel like i have better control over my subs now and the clarity of the bass is amazing. Bypassing the stock amp and going from the headunit to the sub amp (alpine pdx-m12) in the trunk was an A+ move. The subs hit better, easier to control from the head unit now that im not adjusting two amps to get the right sound. I cant stress how the clarity of my subs and my speakers are so much better!
THIS UPGRADE IS DEFINITLY WORTH IT if you're looking to upgrade your sound. The amp compliments my 2 12" Alpine Type-R Subs, drowning out the sound of the sub so that I can hear my music and feel my bass without actually hearing it thump and being the center of attention in the car. The volume and increase in clarity is amazing as well. I recently installed the ATLP exhaust system and usually while driving I can only hear my subs and my exhaust, now I hear my music, feel my bass and feel the roar of the exhaust in my shifter.

Here's some install pics:
Here you can see the black casing i was referring to earlier. Sorry for the mixup Travis, I thought it was an actual device.

My Sub Setup, Self Made Custom Enclosure inspired by JPTL04!
If your looking to upgrade on a budget, this is your solution, especially if you dont have alot of time to spend on upgrading your system. And if your working on creating a new sound system, this is a good start.
I was just able to try this today. Everything stated above is correct this thing is AWESOME!!!! I temp installed the amp along with my UNCALD4 3G stealth sub and spent 2hrs just listening different songs and was BLOWN AWAY.... the sound with only the stock speakers is simply amazing.... If you are interested in this its definately the way to go.... I did call Travis because I'm having the same issues with the remote turn on so heres the question.... Where did you get your remote turn on source? As soon as I get some time this week I'll finish the install with pictures so stay tuned... And yeah I'm waiting for the center channel solution because I still want the Navi prompts.... Thanks Travis this is definately a winner!!!
Cant wait for the center channel amp solution...im just glad the HFL still works through the front speakers.
Thread Starter
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UPDATE!!
Thank you for the feedback thus far. Nick and Chris, you guys are awesome. Very helpful and great communication.
- Seems that the factory amp turn wire on does not have enough voltage to kick on the new amp in 2 of the 7 cars. The only common in the 2 cars is they are 2005 TL's with Navi.
- I talked with Rockford techs yesterday and have a solution. I need to implement this into the plug and play harness before I ship to dwb993 and lishanese. This will probably be a permanent edit to the harness as we don't know why some TL's have this issue and others don't.
- After we've got this update nailed down I'm going to clean up some of these posts so that future reader don't get clogged up with our troubleshooting.
Thank you all!
Thank you for the feedback thus far. Nick and Chris, you guys are awesome. Very helpful and great communication.
- Seems that the factory amp turn wire on does not have enough voltage to kick on the new amp in 2 of the 7 cars. The only common in the 2 cars is they are 2005 TL's with Navi.
- I talked with Rockford techs yesterday and have a solution. I need to implement this into the plug and play harness before I ship to dwb993 and lishanese. This will probably be a permanent edit to the harness as we don't know why some TL's have this issue and others don't.
- After we've got this update nailed down I'm going to clean up some of these posts so that future reader don't get clogged up with our troubleshooting.
Thank you all!

