I just put in ID8 sub from Image dynamics. I always loved their speakers and took a chance on their ID8 sub.

It fits on the stock location with very little modding. I just took pliers and bent the lower hole and sub fit like a charm.

the subs plastic magnet cover comes off very easy with a twist and it sounds 1000x better than the stocker.

But I will have to say I wish I went with a 12" in the trunk with fiberglass enclosure I saw on ebay. 8" just doesn't cut it when you've been listening to 12" sub all your life.

 

are you running a separate amp? any pics?

 

I just had a look at it and it looks like a decent sub. Question is- Is it a 2 ohm sub because all I could see from their advertisement was 1/4 ohms. I'm wandering how well it will work with the stock amp. As long as it sounds better than the stock sub, I might consider buying one.

 

never tried it with stock sub. I have alpine PDX5

I dont' mind losing center channel. Never had a problem with other cars running without center.

But now I have the dreaded ELS active noise damping problem.

 

Hey man new here. Yeah pics would be great! Also, what ohm is the ID8? Do you have any install pics of your CTX components? Did you have to do any modifications to make them fit? If so what did you do.

 

ok, id8v3-d4 is on its way, i should get it on tuesday. Probably i will install it next weekend. I really hope it going to sound better than my stock subwoofer. Right now i have kicker 8" free air sub, my mistake, i bought 4ohm they don make 2ohm free air subwoofer and it needs more power. I hope ID8 will do it just fine for me.

 

I have just changed my old subwoofer with Image dynamics id8v3 and it works perfect. 10X times better than the stock subwoofer and 3X than kicker free air sub . It took me more than 6 hours to do the job, but it was worth it, would do it again if i have to. Now my sound system sounds like million dollar car . Everybody who is saying that you need aftermarket amp are wrong. I agree, you might want to add aftermarket amp for big boom, but in my case i dont want to do that. All i need is sql. I have changed all speakers/tweeters and it sounds awesome.

 

where did u get it and how much?

 

119$ free shipping at woofersetc.com

 

My rear sub blew out, I have a replacement factory sub but have no idea how to get to it. Can you give me steps or pictures on how you did yours thanks in advance. PM me if possible.

 

all you need to do is:
1. remove rear upper seat part
2. remove rear c-pillars
3. remove rear shelf cover
Here is link how to do that.
4. make new mounting holes for your new subwoofer.

What subwoofer did you buy?

 

ID8 is definitely better than stocker.. but if yo give too much power rear deck rattles like hell.

I'm definitely getting rid of mine later to make a bandpass box.

 

Did you dynamat the rear deck when you put the ID8 in?

 

did you use the built in amp from acura or did you end up replacing it?

my sub recently blew and i'm looking to replace mine

thanks!

 

that has a pretty low qts and would likely sound much better in an enclosure anyway. careful that you don't kill it by running it in the free air application too hard and too long

 

yes, i used stock amp, 2 layers of dynamat.

 

it is IB subwoofer. i dont think stock amp will kill it, if you put like 500rms to it, it might kill. but stock amp no way.

 

So if your rear deck didnt rattle would this be a pretty good upgrade? Whos running it with an aftermarket amp?

 

I'm running with alpine pdx5.. it sounds good until you turn it up.. and I like mine loud..

 

Sounds better in what way? Certainly not SPL. The problem with the TL's sub is that there are too many big holes in the rear deck, allowing the sound from the rear of sub to cancel out the sound from the front of it. Trying to upgrade the stock sub is pointless, if you don't deal with the cancellation issue (something not worth attempting because it's just not worth the trouble - it's not a simple task). If the rear deck AND the rear seat were less pervious to sound, having a rear deck sub would work, but on the TL, along with its rattles, you're MUCH better off with a sub in a box.

I have a 10 in a ported enclosure, and I don't think it's loud enough. My next project will be two JL Audio 12w6s in a ported enclosure.

You could just run one of the 2 ohm voice coils.

 

Have you checked out the miracle box?

click here for the original

Here's the mini dream box

 

I play music with bass that reaches down into the 20s (about 25 Hz), so a bandpass design will not work for me. Bandpass enclosures sacrifice low-end for volume.

PLUS, I see a lot of people firing the bass through the ski hole. I tried various firing positions and found that exiting the output towards the rear of the trunk produces the best results. When I placed the enclosure up against the back seat, it sounded horrible in comparison, with much MUCH less low bass. It was as if I installed a high-pass filter on my sub.

So don't design your enclosure before trying various positions. It will make a huge difference in the way it sounds.

 

Bandpass doesn't necessarily sacrifice low-end, it depends on the freq that u tune the box for. Band pass plays a few freq's flat and loud depending on which freq's its tuned for and "bandpasses" the rest. I don't really like them myself but they are good if you want some "boom" and I've had good luck building them for convertibles like jeeps.

 

Of course bandpass sacrifices low end. That's why you don't see it used in any "hifi" applications. Most of the best systems used ported enclosures.

Bandpass enclosures are for "one-note" boom. Actually, bandpass enclosures filter the rest and passes the band you tune it for.

Play with this online calculator to see what I mean.

http://www.ajdesigner.com/fl_subwoofer/subwoofer.php

And anyone can use the calculator. You don't even have to enter any specs because it already has some sample numbers. First change the ripple to 0.7 (for a flat response) and then boost the gain. You can see that as you increase the gain, the band passed gets narrower and narrower, while the lower limit of its frequency response or f3, gets higher (this is not good).

The "boom" comes from the gain, and as soon as a frequency outside the bandpass comes in, it sounds much quieter. If you want powerful, low bass, ported is the way to go.

You can follow the blue trace with your mouse to see the frequency and relative SPL. For a gain of 4 dB, the difference in SPL between 58 Hz and 25 Hz is over 17 dB! So if your sub is playing 58 Hz at 100 watts, you'd need over 560 watts to make 25 Hz sound just as loud, and of course the sub would most likely get fried.

 

Welcome to '10. I thought these myths were gone a long time ago. Bandpasses can be tuned for any frequency range you want. Mine plays loud and flat from 30hz to 90hz and it's much louder than a ported box. They can be tuned to be a one note wonder for pure SPL but they can be tuned to play as wide as you want them to. The SQ is a night and day difference over the same subs in a sealed enclosue. My bandpass destroys my old sealed box in both SQ and SPL.

As for firing it through the ski-pass, this is the best way of doing it. No rattles, less cancellation, just good sound. You have to face your ported box in different directions to compensate for your lack of low end. You're looking for artificial cabin gain. You do not need this with the bandpass, it works great firing into the cabin. You may not have liked your ported box facing the seats because you get a weird non tuned bandpass effect in the area between the seats and subs.

It may be best to sit back and read some of the threads on this setup before being so confrontational and calling people liars.

 

Cabin gain comes from the relation between wavelength and cabin volume. It has nothing to do with enclosure design or positioning. All designs benefit from cabin gain. It is not "artificial."

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/newsletter/cabin_gain.htm

You cannot get something for nothing.

If you choose to boost your band from 30-90 Hz, frequencies outside that range will suffer.

Find me one home "audiophile" system that uses a bandpass design. Every good subwoofer out there is either sealed or ported (or passive radiator),with a few exceptions (tranmission line, horn-loaded), but pretty much none are bandpass.

As for whether the ski-pass is a good place to face your output...have you tried directing the bass toward the rear?

If you have facts to back up what you say, I'm happy to hear them. There's absolutely no need to get personal.

 

General rule for firing a driver into a cabin is that the aperture needs to be at least 2/3s the sd of all the drivers combined. So as long as your ski pass has 2/3s the are of all your drivers combined -- you will generally have unobstructed output , as well as minimize localization to the drivers.

you said

"Find me one home "audiophile" system that uses a bandpass design. Every good subwoofer out there is either sealed or ported (or passive radiator),with a few exceptions (tranmission line, horn-loaded), but pretty much none are bandpass."

So if every "good" subwoofer out there is sealed / ported / passive radiator... why do we spend so much time and effort building infinite baffle , aperiodic or dipoles? Also What is wrong with boosting and cutting frequencies? How do you plan on matching the timbre of the right and left channels without cutting and boosting frequencies?

The best low end configurations I have ever heard in a car were IB / AP -- NOT a ported or sealed enclosure.

This is the reason for my sub configuration in my TL

(http://caraudiomag.com/articles/acura-tl-sub-install)

 

I forgot to mention that I have modified my rear seats to fold down (sorry no pics, have not had time to get car audio mag to publish another article) , so the subs do not fire through the measly ski-pass! Talk about great impact!!

 

I have had plenty of audiophile systems- was sponsered by Infinity in 00' prob had 10k+ worth of equipment in my ride then and also have an audiophile system at home. My old partener owns an enclosure business and I have made a couple hundred boxes my self and yes we use exspensive programs to design them. Like I said, they aren't my preference but you can tune them to play low and have midbass drivers to pick up the top end. They are good for creating boom as are ported boxes but for me I only use sealed you just have to through allot more power to a sealed box but allot tighter bass.

now 1 more thing.... is the ID8 even a free air sub?

 

At the beginning of this thread it was stated that the plastic magnet cover is easily removed. What is the reason for removing this?

 

Yes, saying "I don't believe you" is not the same as calling someone a liar. I see where this one is going. Have fun with your cookie cutter ported box facing the trunk.

 

I really hope you will be giving demos for in your car at Acurafest. I would love to try an IB setup and gain some of the trunk space back.

 

to fit bottom part of the subwoofer to be bottom section of rear shelf.

 

now 1 more thing.... is the ID8 even a free air sub?

 

Manufacturer claims that it performe very good in IB. I have it in my acura right now and it sounds nice and goes very low. .

 

Will this work as a stock replacement?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-BOSS-CX8-SUB...item43a223a418

 

1.it is not free air...
2.if you plan to keep stock amp this woofer is 4ohm, oem amp is 2ohm,
3.you dont want to buy subwoofer for $27.99

 

Should the ohms match? Sorry but I am a noob to this electronics thing. I have my back seat out and thought it would be nice to replace the stock sub.

 

> So if every "good" subwoofer out there is sealed / ported / passive radiator... why do we spend so much time and effort building infinite baffle , aperiodic or dipoles?

The fact that most home audiophile systems do not use bandpass subwoofers speaks for itself.

For those that aren't looking for accuracy, certain designs exaggerate output at certain frequencies, and some like that effect.

> Also What is wrong with boosting and cutting frequencies?

Nothing, as long as it doesn't take away from the system. In the case of a bandpass SUBWOOFER, you will get pronounced bass in your passband, but frequencies above and below, will be attenuated relative to other frequencies.

> The best low end configurations I have ever heard in a car were IB / AP -- NOT a ported or sealed enclosure.

In other words, not bandpass.

 

It is absolutely not the same. If you call someone a liar, you're basically firing a shot at them.

If someone claims that 1 + 1 = 3 and I say that 1 + 1 = 2, would I be calling them a liar?

I guess I could have just left out saying that I didn't believe him and presented the facts, letting them speak for themselves.

Cookie cutter ported box. Now that's firing a shot.

I'm not trying to get personal here. I referenced sources to back my claims. Instead of bullying me, maybe you should either counter my argument or accept it.