So I finally did It. I went and got a dyno.

Mods are CAI, p2r plenums and tb spacer, CT headers, option pulley

I was HOPING for 240whp.. the guys at the shop said no way and guessed 220.

we ended up meeting half way at 229.0whp

I could not get the dyno sheet on usb and I have NO scanner at home so i gotta wait till tomorrow to get it posted.

but the power curves are SUPER steady and the tq from 2500-5500rpms is HEAVY.

all in all I am HAPPY with the results..

I will post the chart ASAP for you fellas ..

and yes it's a dynojet so these numbers are not bogus

 

 

Nice :d

 

should be seeing more. what kind of dyno?

 

dynojet

I need to get an exhuast... i think that would be very beneficial

 

the curves are soo consistent.. compared to others I've checked on here... what car run mint imo so. I dunno

 

So your'e making about 280 at the crank. Not too bad. I would've expected more though with those mods.

 

yea I KNOW.... should have 10 more hp and tq.. w/e tho. MY car sat in bumper to bumper traffic for the first 9 years 50000miles of it's life so if it's not as fast as expected I dun care

maybe when I do the exhaust it'll do A LOT since I have all induction mods aside from the headers.

mind you my headers are completely wrapped up to the cat... so i'm thinking MAYBE the exhaust is hitting the cat way faster and causeing too much back pressure.

my last mods are high flow cat and ct cans... i will dyno after each of those mods to see what i get.

PS. JaMezBOI went to the same place and dynoed roughly the same as me with lots of mods also.

I'm thinking the dyno (we both went to the same place ironically) is not giving the "proper" reading.

but WHO knows really... honestly.

I'm happy tho either way.. added 30-40hp with my mods.

that's good... the guys at the shop were IMPRESSED which made me happy for sure.

but please tell me.... does the graph look good.. aside from the numbers???

like the curves, and consistency... is my car running good in the respect?

 

I'll admit yesterday I knew nothing about dynos at all... however I got home and did a nice half hour of reading and found.

other dynos (that are not dynojets) show higher numbers which is why others may show higher numbers and think they are legit. (this is based on my research of comparative dynos with the same car on the diff dynos, getting different results).

Personally i think the car is mint and the graph is legit.

there are many ways to schewer dyno results.... wrong calibration in the software and wrong inputting on the computer before the run (humidity, temp, barometric pressure, how many/ how good the fans are on the car), can result in different numbers.

so technically u could be on the SAME exact dyno and get 3-5% more or less hp.

dyno numbers are not concrete,

as a matter of fact I am thinking of going to another dyno shop just to prove I will get different numbers. but really I dun't think 60$ is worth it to prove a stupid point.

I will prolly just go back to the same place and use my numbers i got there in comparison to my next mods.

that's all the dyno is really for... even the guy at the shop was telling me lol... he said, "you know your on the heartbreak dyno?" I'm like what? and he said, everyone.... EVERYONE gets less than they expect on that dyno so don't be mad when u put down 220.

SO almost 230 apparently is respectable... for there at least.

 

I think thats pretty good...those plenums are giving you that steady torque.

What was your A/F ratio on the top end?

What are you tuning with?

 

no tuning at all man. these are simply bolt ons...

next is ct mufflers... then i might do the high flow cat


and then finally I may end up tuning it

 

Its widely known that every dyno is different. The biggest question is what the scaling was set at. Was it SAE?

BTW, you do not make 201wtq. That spike is from the torque converter at lockup. You make around 185wtq.

 

i dunno what the scaling was or anything like that.

yea I thought tq would be like 200 at 5000 but nope. that's wack.
it's like 190 wtq actually... but w/e still not 200..

I'm gonna mod until i get 200 tq and 240 hp

 

just put a 50 shot. ull get what u want for a couple hundred bux instead of a couple thousand

 

LOL it's illegal in canada guyz... nitrous is a controlled substance.... pretty much

 

im disapointed of these numbers... headers plenums gaskets pulley and cai only 229whp
and whats the stock ? 215-220 ? WTF ?

ohh he is auto thats why.

after i put headers intake and IM im hoping to see 240whp on my whip

 

i'd like to go to the same place and see what i get. did you guys go to the track Saturday?

also CIVIC, it does say SAE HP and SAE TQ on the side of the graph

 

where is this shop?

 

i think it's in oakville near lakeshore??

 

Yea, but it doesnt say what level scaling it is set to.

 

jameZboI got his done there too.. so w/e.

no i didn't go to the track btw cause I had to work later than expected. so i got a dyno instead.

where did I go? it's on the dyno sheet

http://tagracecraft.com/
i think they know what they're doing so i trust my numbers are legit

 

Just off the South Service road between ford dr. & trafalgar..

 

QEW West

Left on Trafalgar

Left on South Service rd

Right on Industry st

you will see their trailer out back

TAG knows what they are doing, they have alot of experience

 

yeah the nitrous is also a controlled substance here too (only the medical grade though)

but the stuff for cars is not though, because they kinda prevent alot of people from abusing by putting a substance in (iirc a bitter tasting thing) that prevents people from abusing it, so it does not have to be controlled

 

sweet thats not bad.. i gotta dyno my car and see what i make too

 

wow i must be a noob but do all CL's rev limit @ ~7400??

 

No, IIRC thats the fuel cut. Red line is 6900.

 

tacho shows 7300 on mine but with OBD2 pluged in it was 6999 to be exact and it is fuel cut

 

no gauge is ever perfect (but they are generally the most accurate in the middle of their sweep/range), especially when they are produced in such mass production, but yeah i would trust the computer/scan tool more then the tach itself

 

7200rpm on the s models. max hp on my car was at 6800-6900 rpm on my auto tl-s

 

i dont think it is just me but these #'s are low for what u got especially the torque numbers..

 

well bring ur car to the same place and get urs dynoed... I bet it'll be lower than u think.

another memebr on here JameZboi got his dyno there also and he had his exhaust modded, (no plenums). and got the same numbers basically. so w/e

it is what it is..

I could go to a mustang dyno and get high numbers but they aren't real.

 

everywhere in a europe they measure it with crank horse power not a front wheels rear wheels all wheels horse power thats a bullshit you mod your engine to make more hp so it should be done this way. when you buy a car specs tells you crank hp so i dont f know why you americans do it differently

 

If I'm not mistaken, mustang dynos tend to read lower numbers

 

Ive never heard of people in Europe pulling the motor out of the car and putting it on an engine dyno. And crank numbers are very misleading. The power has to go through the clutch, transmission, axles (or driveshaft and rear differential if RWD), the hubs, and the wheels before it hits the pavement. All of that reduces the power output.

The big problem here is he didnt dyno the car before he did the work, so we really dont know what he gained. These numbers are just numbers, and they are pointless.

No two dynos will put out the same numbers. It doesnt matter if they are the same model. Even the weather affects the numbers. The only thing a dyno is good for is gauging how much power you gained after a modification, but you have to use the same dyno.

I don't even like most dynos for tuning. A street tune is more reliable then most dynos. The only dyno Id ever use for tuning is a Dynapack hub dyno because you can actually put load on the motor compared to just spinning a drum.

 

thats exactly what i meant... they calculate drivetrain loss to get CRANK HORSE POWER numbers i got used to it i always try to see it this way whp doesnt really tells me much

 

but wheel horsepower is exactly what you are able to put down to the ground though, so the more realalistic of real world conditions with the drivetrain losses and such
but yes an engine/crank dyno is the easiest way to get repeatable numbers though (btw manufactures still rate it that way)

also with the hub dyno, civic uses is also an accurate way too, cause you take out any variables with strapping down the car and such, then also tire slippage and such

 

Ok, then my car is making around 330hp at the crank. Better?

Its easy to just do the math and figure out what youre making at the crank, but thats a worthless number.

 

even then just an estimate, and very dependent on the percentage of drivetrain loss you calculate it with

 

Yea, but thats the same with a WHP number as dynos arent reliable.