Chattering while it is in gear and the clutch is fully engaged doesn't sound very good. I'm guess a release bearing or perhaps pressure plate fingers. If it is a transmission issue, that's a whole different thing but since you have a "new" transmission, that's hard to imagine.

If the clutch is slipping when first starting out, then slippage would really be noticeable in other gears because you probably have a 3.35:1 first gear. As for 2nd and 3rd gear being hard to shift into, that is almost sure to be synchronizers, however a bent shifter fork could be a possibility.

 

who said to keep the clutch fluid low? I've found it much worse with it low, when I filled it up high it was infinitely better

 

OK wait, the manual says our gears are syncronized so that you cannot put it in reverse when the car is rolling forward. I have always been concerned about this when I try to shift into 6 on the highway.

 

There is nothing new about synchronized transmissions. They have been around since 1929 (Cadillac). Yes, our transmission is fully synchronized, but this is not why you can't shift into reverse when moving forward. There is a reverse lockout to keep you from doing this.

 

so i either have a new development or something i just noticed. After I accelerate really hard through first and second gear. The clutch will get stiff as stated. Then if i push the clutch in once release and the then immediately push in and release again the "heavy" feeling goes away. This is making me lean more towards a fluid leak.

 

I honestly dont think anything is wrong with your clutch. If i was you i wouldn't worry about it as long as you know how to operate the clutch correctly. I think it's normal for the clutch to get stiff when flooring your car and shifting at redline it happened to me and it's not a big deal. But then again i baby my clutch and i dont ride the clutch or downshift at all i rather go through brake pad's lol. Just change the clutch fluid and heck even throw some GM' syncromesh in the tranny while your at it. My clutch is running solid and i'm at 80,000 miles.

 

I've never had this happen to me but I have read some other posts from time to time relating this same problem. It almost sounds as though the hydraulic fluid is dirty or low, or the delay valve is dirty. It's odd that it only happens under certain conditions. The only other thing I can think of is the dual mass flywheel starting to fail, but I imagine that is a long shot.

 

And no, this is definitely not a normal thing. However, there is this.

It is possible that the clutch "mass" develops enough inertia due to centrifugal forces at high RPMs to "fight" clutch disengagement action. I have felt this on other cars, but not my TL when I take it close to 6500 RPM. Our flywheel is rather heavy and if the hydraulic system is not performing up to speed, this could be a cause. But it does not explain at all how it might be stiff after engine speed drops off. So everything I just said is probably a non-issue after all.

 

I've never felt this 'stiff clutch' before. But I'd imagine it's a better feeling than the 'stiff steering' on the Prelude at near redline in 1st gear - this practically prevents steering input unless you back off the throttle.

 

so i changed the clutch fluid about two weeks ago...the fluid had alot of crude in it. I thought for sure this would fix it but nope it didn't. Still the same...i would say that it feels like the hydraulic system isn't up to par... I also checked the fluid today after two weeks and it isn't leaking because the fluid is still at max. So leaking is ruled out. In march sometime i'm gonna take it in. I've also noticed that on really warm days ( it finally got above 45 here today) it seems to not be near as pronounced.

 

Here is how I downshift...can someone tell me if this is terrible for the clucth?

Lets say I am downshifting from 3 to 2 for an example.

- Press the clutch and then shift into 2
- Rev the engine higher than the RPM where the car would engage in 2nd gear.
- Slowly let off clutch smoothly and press the gas padal.

 

There are two methods that are considered preferable to employ when downshifting: rev-matching and double clutching.

Rev-matching

• Raise foot from throttle.
• Begin shift to lower gear.
• While in the mist of the downshift, blip the throttle to raise engine speed.
• Complete shift and release the clutch.

The benefits of rev-matching are a smoother and quicker downshift and most important, significantly reduced clutch wear.


Double clutching

• Raise foot from throttle.
• Begin shift to lower gear.
• As you enter the neutral gate, pause, blip the throttle while at the same time engaging the clutch.
• Depress the clutch again and complete the shift.
• Release the clutch.

The benefits of double clutching are the same as those for rev-matching but also include a significant reduction in synchronizer wear as well.

You will know you have done either one of these techniques correctly of your downshift is so smooth that a passenger would not even notice what you did.

 

inserting side note here... i just got my car back again from the place that fixed it after the wreck. I took it back in for steering whining during u turns. They had no idea replaced the steering fluid. This did not fix the steering noise but did fix (or seems to have) the clutch issue. How does the clutch get its fluid? Is it all done by the same pump (steering pump)? Like I said i've only had it back for a day but i tried and tried to make it get "stiff" or hard and i just wouldn't do it. I"m not complaining believe me.

 

well finally took the car into the shop to let them have a look see about the clutch.... and they said the best bet was to just replace the clutch. I in reply told them I'd drive it till it wouldn't. They think the clutch just has alot of wear on it. The total of the job if replaced would sour of 2k.

 

Is it just me or does that price seem a little high?

 

Yes, it sounds high.

 

well thats what they quoted it at at the dealership: here is another forum with another guy that had to pay the same price.....
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...t=bleed+clutch

I'm just stating what Acura did....if and when it needs replacing the dealership will be the last place that does it.... 2k is ridiculous.

 

I have an 06 TL 6 speed its normal mine does this all the time i find its because the TL has a compact clutch unit that's self-adjusting for consistent pedal height, feel and effort throughout its service life. This innovative clutch system automatically takes up the slack between the pressure plate and clutch disc and lowers release loads while maintaining consistent pressure for the diaphragm spring. To reduce drivetrain shock and limit the torque load on transmission components, the clutch includes a one-way delay orifice (check valve) located in the slave cylinder that restricts return fluid flow during rapid clutch engagement. This makes the clutch engagement more gradual during overly aggressive release.

 

also this is my second clutch which i had replaced by ACURA at 17K miles for 4K person who had the car b4 me tore the clutch up but the new 1 feels the same exact way with feel an stiffness because of the self adjusting computer crap also because of this you will never notice if your clutch is going till it starts to slip basically Acura thinks all this computer adjustment will make for smoother shifts but i find it if your used to a normal 6 spd it will feel numb almost as if you need a new clutch its so funny ppl who drive manual cant drive my car i find with the clutch pedal just be real slow or real fast on clutch let up

 

well this is good news and i certainly hope your right. Mines has no slippage at all and the only other things that i notice about that car and inconsistent take offs because of clutch let up. Thanks for the informative reply.