Hey guys,

I've been doing a lot of research but I just cannot find what exactly is needed to complete a MTF change.
I'm planning of using Honda's genuine manual transmission fluid - about 2 - 3 quarts.
The question that I have lies on whether or not I need any washers or drain plugs? Part numbers would definitely help. I am looking at 90471-PX4-000 but do not know if it is needed - please confirm.

I am also changing my oil using Honda's 5w-20 and 15400-PLM-A01 filters with 94109-14000 14mm washers.


Also is there any tips or concerns that you have for me before it's too late hahah.

Thanks in advance!

 

Just head to acura for the parts...no new plug will be needed, but a crush washer never hurts...btw, look in to GM syncromesh for your fluid!

 

Reason why I'm not using GM syncromesh is because I don't want to void my 100k drive train warranty just in case something happens..
Definitely will start using syncromesh after that.

 

^ some dealers aknowledge that the gm syncromesh is a good fix, and will not void your warranty, talk to your local dealership

 

Doubt you will void anything, likely they won't know what fluid you are using.

I never replace washers but some people swear by it. There are some good DIYs in the garage that show you everything

 

yes you deff need new washers why do all that work and not bother to replace them

 

Subinf, couldn't find a good DIY in the garage for the transmission change - mind if you send the link? Thanks in advance.

 

I'm lazy. I've never had anything leak. If one does leak then it gets replaced next time the drain plug is out.

 

You will need ramps (or jack stands), a carpenter's level, a drain pan, a strong quality ratchet set (3/8"), a torque wrench, two aluminum washers, a funnel with a long neck, and 3 quarts (U.S.) of fluid (a drain and fill takes 2.3 quarts).

You may also need a breaker bar to remove the fill plug if this is the first change. Try to make sure your transmission is level before you start. The torque specs for the two bolts (plugs?) you will remove are 29 ft/lbs and 33 ft/lbs for the drain plug and fill plug respectively. You do not need to remove the check plug and you really shouldn't since its torque spec is a mere 8.7 ft/lbs. Add 2.3 quarts after your drain for the fill.

You also do not need to remove the battery or the air filter housing to get to the fill plug. You will need a swivel on your 3/8" extension, however for this plug.

This is the easiest and least messy manual transmission drain and fill I have ever done on any car. It really is a piece of cake.

 

I had the dealership change mine to the GM Synchromesh when I first bought the car and they didn't even question it.

 

That is so wrong. You want the people that make your food to have this mindset?

 

Is there something wrong with your transmission? If not, why use the GM fluid?

Just go to the parts counter to buy the washers. That what I did.

 

I had my transaxle rebuilt under warranty to correct the 3rd gear issue (which was pretty bad), and now it shifts absolutely perfectly with the Honda fluid, so I've never had to invest in the GM stuff. If your transaxle shifts alright, just put the Honda fluid in and keep it simple... if you have an occasional problem and there's no chance for warranty work, then absolutely try the GM stuff.

 

What the hell is the problem with that? First, the fluid is not going to fuck anything up so don't worry about it. Second, it is god damn tranny fluid, pretty trivial.

 

You gentlemen play nice. Have a beer and chill.

 

What's wrong is that you are encouraging deception. What the fluid will or will not do is a subject for another discussion. It's not up to us to decide what is trivial or not.

Don't take it personally. I don't know you so I have no interest in saying anything negative about you. What I am attacking is your promotion of deceit. We should strive to be honest in everything we do.

 

To the OP....do yourself a favour, use the GM Synchromesh fluid. I'm typically very skeptical of "magic in a bottle" solutions...especially for the 6MT crunchiness. But I changed my fluid out @ 18 000 KMs (roughly 11 000 miles) to the GM stuff and the difference is incredible. Shifts so much smoother...I can't explain it, but it worked.

Do it.

 

Fair enough.

 

I had the 3rd gear issue with corresponding rebuild too at about 15K miles. Put in the new Honda fluid every 15k miles thereafter. Third gear hang ups returned after about 15k, would put in new fluid and issue would be corrected for the time being. At 45k I put in the GM fluid and now have 62k miles on the car and have not experienced one third gear hang up. Get the GM fluid and put it in. You'll not regret it.
2005 TL six speed

 

i have a 05 tl mt too and was wondering about this 3rd gear issue...by "hanging up" do you mean it seems extremely hard to shift to 3rd to 4th sometimes? Ive noticed that sometimes the tranny seems to provide alot more resistance when I shift...It seems like something is "holding" my stick and wont let go...i figured my car was just haunted ....I cant recall if it specifically was 3rd gear but I bet thats the one...

im gonna put the gm synchro in and give that a whirl.

 

just change the fluid regularly with honda MT oil i do and is crispy as fcuk

 

Most always, this is caused by a big difference in shaft speeds and the synchronizers are having a lot of work to do matching shaft speeds. A common reason for this is gear-skipping when upshifting or downshifting. If you do this when up shifting and don't wait for input shaft speed to drop off enough, the synchros undergo a lot more friction to match speeds. If you do this while downshifting and don't double clutch, the synchros are in the same boat as far as having a lot of work to do to match shaft speeds. In either case, this is bad and should be avoided.

Of course the above assumes that other parts are not damaged and are working as they should and that the synchronizers for these gears are not overly worn,

 

I had my 3rd gear replaced too and by 8000-9000 miles later it was difficult to shift. You could tell it wasn't going into gear all the way and you would have to hold the stick until you felt it slip into the gear. I changed the fluid to GM syncromesh and it shifts better than brand new. The Honda fluid that came out smelled like burnt ass. The guy at the GM dealership asked what kind of car the fluid was for and he wasn't suprised when I told him it was for a TL. Everybody uses the GM stuff cause it works so well.

 

And I would advise putting a cover over your fender if you're using a breaker bar. When my plug finally cracked loose my bar swung around so fast that I scratched my fender. Nothin a bit of touchup paint couldn't fix though.

 

I switched to GM Synchromesh at my last change (50,000 mi). I have 9000 miles on it since and it's definitely smoother than before.

Enough people on here seem to be using the GM fluid that if there was a problem with it someone would have said something by now.

 

Stupid question, but is there a specific type of "GM Synchromesh" to buy? Or do you just go to the autoparts store and ask for GM Synchromesh? Where do you buy this stuff and what exactly do you buy? Also how much?

Thanks!

 

There is "Synchromesh", and "Synchromesh Friction Modified". You definitely want the Friction Modified version. Part number 12377916...

Very good prices here (usually $15+/qt at the dealer): http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...D&ProdID=41510

 

Has anyone had availability issues getting the friction modified stuff?

 

just got 3 qts from pace. easy job...excellent results, my 3rd gear hangup is gone.

 

deceit???????????? and you're talking about a dealership... A DEALERSHIP!!!!! thats all these people practice is deceit. so if it saves you a couple thousand, because you didn't tell them u put 15$ worth of good MT fluid in your car, and they never know and have no reason to black flag your vehicle for no reason other than they can.

I don't care what u do, but i would just keep my mouth shut and let them make their own conclusion.

 

A blast from the past. Come on. You know that just because other people do something wrong, that does not mean you're free to do the same.

And just because they're a big company doesn't make what you're doing any more right than if you were to do it to a mom and pop shop.

Keeping your mouth shut may be the legal thing to do, but it may not be the right thing to do.

 

About how much of this stuff are we supposed to put in our cars?

3 quarts?

Thanks!

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/%2A-6-spd-tranny-fluid-change-%2A-3g-garage-c-013-a-558814/

/thread

 

Just did the fluid change to the GMSFM. Boy what a difference, no more notchiness. Should have done it sooner. Only hitch was my swivel broke before the fill plug loosened, couple of skinned fingers! In my old '89 Taurus SHO I had a problem with the second gear syncro, used Red Line then and it fixed the problem. Looks like the GMSFM does the trick for the Acura. I'm sure RL would work just as well.

Wow Robocam, what is wrong or deceitful about using a non-Acura product in the car. If the fluid meets the mfg. specs it meets the specs. Do you only buy Acura wiper blades when you have to change them! Deceit is doing something like rolling back the odometer. My $.02

 

2.3 U.S. quarts for a drain and fill. 2.6 U.S. quarts for a dry fill.

 

If I were to take my GMSMFM lubed tranny to the dealer, can they tell immediately that it's not original Acura or the improved Acura fluid?

If you outright lie and say you are using the factory fluid, then it's deceit. But if you do have aftermarket stuff that meets or exceeds the factory specs, is it wrong to not say anything? And what if asked?

A moral dilemma for sure.

 

So the real question is "Does the GMSMFM fluid void the warranty?" If it doesn't, it really is a non-issue. If is does, well I guess how you answer may be considered deceit. So does it void the Acura warranty????

 

No it doesn't. As many people have experienced, even some dealerships will install it w/ no questions asked....

 

If you dont have any transmission problems. Is it recommended that you change oil. I only asked because i learned to drive manual transmission on my TL. And it now only has 12k miles. I figure that since I was learned I didnt have perfect shift and probably there are metal shavings in the oil that is more then it should be at 12k miles. Is there anything wrong with changing it with the recommended acura/honda manual transmission oil at this time?

 

a 30 pack of Bud and get the GM stuff, stop by and you're golden...my sis in law lives in NJ and makes it to my house in 3 hours...