Guys, I don't want to be rude, but can we keep this thread on the topic of the sensors? These things go off topic way too much and I truly believe the sensors are the root cause of all the failures.

 

Very true but if you have a car that the ATF filter has never been changed with 100K I'd say they would go Hand in Hand. It's all part of the Big picture ATF,Filter,Sensors all of it. I took my Sensors out and was tapping it on a cloth and there it was a pice of something came out of the sensor.

 

That would be the topic of another thread. There have been multiple threads on filters and fluid.

The sensor issue is realatively unknown and new and is much more promising than fluid and filter changes.

FWIW, I value the importance and I run a cooler, external filter and the best fluid money can buy but I would like this thread to stay of topic so we don't have to wade through all of the other stuff when trying to find info on the sensors.

 

It’s all cause and effect, Sensors going bad, Cause the Clutch packs to burn which in turn put out more dabree then it's caught by the filter, Till the filter can’t hold any more foreign matter and it is passed on to the Sensors and so on. When something go's bad it's 99% of the time due to a Contributing factor. In Aviation it's very common but if you think it's just the Sensors going bad with nothing els contributing to there Failure then more power to you.

 

Here we go with the thread going downhill once again...

I understand cause and effect. I understand failure modes. I've learned a few things campaigning a 10 second car on a low budget with no sponsors and breaking tons of things in the process.

If the sensors don't go bad, the clutches don't burn and we don't have to worry about filters. There is a mesh screen that under any sort of normal service will never plug. It takes a catastrophic transmission failure to plug this filter and by then the damage is done. The other smaller filter is not a regular service item but it's not a bad idea to replace.

The sensors are not failing due to debris, they are failing electronically. As it was put to me, they get "lazy".

Let's get to the root of the problem (sensors) instead of trying to fix the symptoms (plugged filters).

I'm done with this thread. No more pissing matches for me.

 

Anarchy, point noted, filter should be changed. Lets move on.. I wanna here back from more people who have changed their sensors. I'm at 38k and this is something that I am very much considering in my maintainance at 45k.

 

I will be changing my sensors very soon. Car has 87k on it and was stuttering. I did the 3x3 fluid flush and the stuttering has stopped for now but I want to change these anyways.

 

I highly reccomend the sensor change ^^^^^. If your miles are at 87,000. Done mine and shudder has stopped.

 

I have been glued to this thread for awhile... those with the new sensors in their cars, please tell us about your experience.

 

also a diy thread with massive pictures would definately help。

 

Thier really isn't anything to say about new sensors, unless your old ones gone bad, and your tranny started acting weird. Then you replace, them just like you would replace any other thing like oil for your car. After that your tranny should be better.

 

The problem is they don't just go bad all at once. They get worse over time. The trans slips a little more on the shifts over time but not enough for the driver to notice until eventually you get the shudder. Replacing them as PM seems to be a very good idea.

Mine has no shudder at 74,000 miles but I'm replacing mine soon. I've noticed a bump shift over the last 10,000 miles where the shift takes longer than normal and then "bumps" when it finally engages. This is right before the shudder starts.

I've got high hopes for this fix since there is no physical problem with our transmissions.

 

The people that have done it have you noticed harsher shifting, IE Notice the shifts a bit more then before. And most of all the 2/3 shift.

 

I'll ask again. If the pressure switch sensor went bad, wouldn't it pull up a code? Anything electrical should, right?

 

Being that it's a sensor, I doubt anything short of an outright failure (short or open) would set a code. The user who mentioned the sensors fixing the shudder did not mention a code or light.

Think of a coolant temp sensor for the engine. If can be off by a good amount and the computer has no idea it's off. Fortunately for that sensor the computer can check it against the inlet air temp sensor when the engine is dead cold. There's nothing on the trans to check the sensors against.

 

can you go into detail on your observation?

what do you mean by "bump shift"? is it like, say, you're on 3rd - you drive in a slightly uphill then downhill slope and the tranny holds onto 3rd to about maybe 3K, then shifts to 4th? im kinda interested in the difference and that maybe its not one (bad sensor) over the other (Grade Logic holding gear as you ascend).

and when you mean "shudder", what does it feel exactly? is it something very noticeable that you'll know something is wrong?

thanks much!

 

The 07+ TL uses the RL tranny. So would this be something that we need to look into also? Or is this for 06- TLs?

 

I didn't know the RL tranny was being used in the 07+'s... makes sense why the loaner I had once felt very soft and less responsive in its shift points.

 

A bump shift is also called a slide shift. Ideally shifts are supposed to be crisp and nearly instant in an auto. The clutches aren't made to slip, only on or off.

When there are problems, you may get a bump shift. It's when the clutches don't engage instantly. You feel it begin the shift, slip for a while, then engage abruptly. All this happens in less than half a second but what most people notice is what feels like a harsher shift but in reality it's a softer shift..... if that makes any sense.

Shudder is when the clutches don't have enough holding power and they slip. The entire car usually shudders when this happens. In this case, the clutches slip, stick, slip, stick, very quickly causing the shudder. This wears the clutches out very quickly.

What's happening with the sensors we're replacing is when they go bad there's not enough line pressure to engage the clutches fully (an auto uses fluid pressure to engage the clutches) so you get a bump shift first and eventually a shudder. It would be something like driving a manual and releasing the clutch very slowly after you're already hit the gas (bump shift) and then driving around with your foot always pressing the clutch pedal partially in (shudder). Although that example is not that bad since the clutch in a manual is made to slip a little.

It looks like these transmissions are not failing due to mechanical issues anymore but a false signal to the computer is causing the clutches to slip.

 

So where is the best place to buy these sensors, exactly what are we asking for? Do we need to replace the third gear and forth gear with two #17 washers? I need to do this I have 83,000 miles.

 

This is what you will need and how many you will need of them.

28600-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE x1
28610-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE x1
90471-PW7-A00 GASKET (10MM) x2

 

Ah I see. thank you for taking the time to clarify that.

I am pretty anal with the car and notice any slight changes in how it behaves. so far, it is nowhere near how you describe it. regardless, this will be a maintenance item i will be replacing this year.

thank you so much for your time.

 

I really need to find my sensors, lost them in my garage somewhere

Also, those "gaskets" are actually metal washers, I dont see a need to change those out, as they really cant warp or bend they are some thick washers!

If I can find my sensors today, I will pull the wheel and change them out

 

Keep an eye on things. I pay attention to my car like you, and when my tranny started acting funny there were no codes, lights, or nothing. The first 'gear slip' happened 8 months before the second time. Then came the intermittent shudder, which, the dealer could not diagnose. It wasn't until the car was undrivable that prompted the dealer to confirm the tranny was bad.
The sensor thing in this thread sounds like the probable cause.
Has anyone talked to Acura about this finding ?
Ps... My tranny failed at 105K, and was replaced. I've got 35K on the new one.

 

Im not too good working with cars, especially under the hood, you think the dealer or a mechanic can change the sensors for me? would they look at me weird?

sorry guys, not to go off topic again but, i asked an acura dealer if they can change the filter when i go to change the transmission fluid and they told me that they cant because its located in the transmission. weird. what do i do in this case? is it really recommended?

 

thanks. I will.

so far, there is nothing abnormal for me to notice. car shifts just fine. but im not going to wait for something to come up.

 

Print the pic I put up and show them, We are in the same Boat my Dealer told me the same thing when I went in looking for a filter for my tranny. once I pulled out the pic He had nothing to say.

 

Hi. Good evening!

I wanted to share with you something that happened to me today. In spending time doing other maintenance items (note: I am very sensitive and like others mentioned above call it meticulous, anal, etc. with my 04 5AT), I installed both #3 and #4 replacement sensors.

I have close to 49,900 miles and haven't really experienced any negative or bad things with the transmission. I did notice that even after my recent ATF change, though the transmission appeared to "feel" better, it was NOTHING like what these sensors did for me today. First of all, I apologize for not making a how-to.

It was so damn easy and took all of about 20 minutes (not including jacking the car up).

Okay, okay, back to what it did for me. Well, I just got done driving 20 miles and holy cow batman, the car shifts and just feels so smooth like butter. I mean really noticeable! No, it's not my imagination, but it made a huge difference for the $80 bux I spent shipped to my house.

Furthermore, I drove about 80% in normal automatic mode and 20% in sport shift mode (which was equally impressive). I highway drove half and back street drove half in stop/go traffic.

I'm sorry for positively ranting here, but I feel it was well warranted.

 

Thanks for sharing and for the bump.. did you buy the TI sensors or was it from another Mfg?

 

Yes.. Thanks for sharing your experience with us! Both my sensors are in the mail.. and I will do the same when they are installed...

 

are new gaskets a must? i found the 2 sensors at a local acura dealership for about the same price as online but no one has the gaskets. not even the honda dealerships

 

I doubt they need replacement but I'm such a stickler for putting everything new that I would grab new ones especially since the sealing washers are so cheap.. You don't torque the new sensors on with much pressure but if you remove the sensors and notice that the washers have any indentations then they definitely need replacement.

 

I felt the same when I changed mines and thought I was trippin. The car did shift better though.

 

Ordering mine today.

My transmission shutters pretty good in the morning and I just got the fluid changed about 3000 miles ago, as it slowly warms up the shifts get smoother and less worrisome.

Hopefully these sensors do the trick.

 

That is strongly convincing me to change mine. But I'm too stupid, need a DIY with detailed pictures. *hint hint, nudge nudge*

 

thats what i thought too. well for now im going to do a 3x3 tranny flush to see if that helps with my shifting problems. ill drive it for a few days then install the new sensors and see what happens

 

Yup, bought them from Delray Acura online. Yes, get gaskets (washers). Mine were stuck to the stock sensors. Note: I don't see how the 15lb torque specs are accurate in the service manual. One removing the sensors, I barely "had to break" it free. Long story short, make it nice and tight and stop.

I'm very happy with this modification and I've driven 50+ more miles and have smiles from ear to ear.

Quick how to:

1) Jack up front of car.
2) Turn steering wheel all the way to left to make room to work behind the driver side wheel.
3) When looking towards the engine of the car from drivers side through wheel well (with wheel on) remove plastic screw/snap
4) Pull plastic liner towards you then down towards the front of the car. You will notice a plastic notch holding this into the wheel well, pull plastic out and rotate under car.
5) You will see two sensors (once you order them and have them in your hand you will easily see what you need to replace).
6) Follow the Acura service manual how-to.

Start to finish about 20-30 minutes.

 

I get my sensors tomorrow and installation will follow.

 

I ordered the sensors from Peoria Acura today. I will post my results after they are in.

 

I installed these last week, there really wasnt a difference. It was more of a preventive maintenance thing for me.

I took some pictures. Will post them tomm