Rear Suspension Install
Rear Suspension Install
I'm going to attempt to finish my suspension install on Thanksgiving day, I know, fun right?
Thanks to you guys, I got the fronts done no problem. So right now only my front is lowered and I've been riding around like that LOL.
So I just have a few questions on the rear bushings. I've done quit a lot of research and it seems that I'm bound to run into the horrific seized bushing problem. So since no stores are open on Thanksgiving... I just want to make sure I have the right parts ready to replace the old bushings/bolts.
So my questions is that the bolts and bushings that I need are #15 in this diagram:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
And the bushings that I need are #33 in this diagram:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
Also does anyone have any advice before I attempt to tackle the rear?
Thank you.
Thanks to you guys, I got the fronts done no problem. So right now only my front is lowered and I've been riding around like that LOL.
So I just have a few questions on the rear bushings. I've done quit a lot of research and it seems that I'm bound to run into the horrific seized bushing problem. So since no stores are open on Thanksgiving... I just want to make sure I have the right parts ready to replace the old bushings/bolts.
So my questions is that the bolts and bushings that I need are #15 in this diagram:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
And the bushings that I need are #33 in this diagram:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
Also does anyone have any advice before I attempt to tackle the rear?
Thank you.
lol i did this... its a bitch... id say its more worth it to get it done professionaly, not worth the stress... i had to take the whole control arms out wich came out with the brake disk and caliper and crap... but those are the parts you need..
what is your plan on getting the bushing out? you gota press in the new bushing too.. i used a heavy vise..
what is your plan on getting the bushing out? you gota press in the new bushing too.. i used a heavy vise..
Probably gonna burn it and saw it off or something. And to get the new ones on... I'll figure out a way using the tools in the garage
.
Ulewser brings up a good point... I'll take your advice on the WD-40. I rather just have the new parts and return it if I don't need it.
.Ulewser brings up a good point... I'll take your advice on the WD-40. I rather just have the new parts and return it if I don't need it.
lol
i was close to that as well. The trick I was told is to spray wd-40 real well. Have it sit for a while. The car needs to be down when you loosen #15. After doing so you can go ahead and change what you want to change. I found a rear much easies than the front bar to #15 bolt.
i was close to that as well. The trick I was told is to spray wd-40 real well. Have it sit for a while. The car needs to be down when you loosen #15. After doing so you can go ahead and change what you want to change. I found a rear much easies than the front bar to #15 bolt.
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It's really easy. When you have your car up on jackstands, take your jack below your rotor. Now raise that end only SLIGHTLY, enough to take tension off the bolt. The bolt will slide right out. You do the same when installing the bolt so that you don't strip it.
There are only 3 bolts you will have to deal with. 2 up top, and 1 at the bottom. Once you have that lower bolt off, you'll notice that it slides in at an angle. That's why there's always tension being applied.
There are only 3 bolts you will have to deal with. 2 up top, and 1 at the bottom. Once you have that lower bolt off, you'll notice that it slides in at an angle. That's why there's always tension being applied.
It's really easy. When you have your car up on jackstands, take your jack below your rotor. Now raise that end only SLIGHTLY, enough to take tension off the bolt. The bolt will slide right out. You do the same when installing the bolt so that you don't strip it.
There are only 3 bolts you will have to deal with. 2 up top, and 1 at the bottom. Once you have that lower bolt off, you'll notice that it slides in at an angle. That's why there's always tension being applied.
There are only 3 bolts you will have to deal with. 2 up top, and 1 at the bottom. Once you have that lower bolt off, you'll notice that it slides in at an angle. That's why there's always tension being applied.
It's really easy. When you have your car up on jackstands, take your jack below your rotor. Now raise that end only SLIGHTLY, enough to take tension off the bolt. The bolt will slide right out. You do the same when installing the bolt so that you don't strip it.
There are only 3 bolts you will have to deal with. 2 up top, and 1 at the bottom. Once you have that lower bolt off, you'll notice that it slides in at an angle. That's why there's always tension being applied.
There are only 3 bolts you will have to deal with. 2 up top, and 1 at the bottom. Once you have that lower bolt off, you'll notice that it slides in at an angle. That's why there's always tension being applied.
I used PB blaster, followed by wd-40, then that not having worked even after using about 20 different ways, incl. taking tension off, I cut the shock off, than cut the welded nut off, that didnt work, so than I sawed off the other end of the bolt, that didnt work, so I torched the bushing out.......I tried my long dragged out process on both sides, ended up changing the bushing on both sides.
I used PB blaster, followed by wd-40, then that not having worked even after using about 20 different ways, incl. taking tension off, I cut the shock off, than cut the welded nut off, that didnt work, so than I sawed off the other end of the bolt, that didnt work, so I torched the bushing out.......I tried my long dragged out process on both sides, ended up changing the bushing on both sides.
Chris..thanks for adding that!
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