Rear Suspension Install

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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 04:31 PM
  #1  
vietfobulust's Avatar
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Rear Suspension Install

I'm going to attempt to finish my suspension install on Thanksgiving day, I know, fun right?

Thanks to you guys, I got the fronts done no problem. So right now only my front is lowered and I've been riding around like that LOL.

So I just have a few questions on the rear bushings. I've done quit a lot of research and it seems that I'm bound to run into the horrific seized bushing problem. So since no stores are open on Thanksgiving... I just want to make sure I have the right parts ready to replace the old bushings/bolts.

So my questions is that the bolts and bushings that I need are #15 in this diagram:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal

And the bushings that I need are #33 in this diagram:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal

Also does anyone have any advice before I attempt to tackle the rear?

Thank you.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 04:37 PM
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unlewser's Avatar
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spray the lower shock bolt the night before with PB blaster or WD-40, this will allow the bolt to break loose easier. Since your in SF and dont see snow, they shouldnt be rusted.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 04:39 PM
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lol i did this... its a bitch... id say its more worth it to get it done professionaly, not worth the stress... i had to take the whole control arms out wich came out with the brake disk and caliper and crap... but those are the parts you need..

what is your plan on getting the bushing out? you gota press in the new bushing too.. i used a heavy vise..
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 04:49 PM
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you shouldnt need to do anything with the bushing. Take bolt out, put new shock/strut in, put bolt back in.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 04:51 PM
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Probably gonna burn it and saw it off or something. And to get the new ones on... I'll figure out a way using the tools in the garage .

Ulewser brings up a good point... I'll take your advice on the WD-40. I rather just have the new parts and return it if I don't need it.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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Mach30SiR's Avatar
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I cut mine off, then burned the bushing out...replaced the screw and bushing.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 05:53 PM
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lol
i was close to that as well. The trick I was told is to spray wd-40 real well. Have it sit for a while. The car needs to be down when you loosen #15. After doing so you can go ahead and change what you want to change. I found a rear much easies than the front bar to #15 bolt.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Mach30SiR
I cut mine off, then burned the bushing out...replaced the screw and bushing.
That's what I did also, but if your car has never seen salt/snow it might be a lot easier.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 06:34 PM
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It's really easy. When you have your car up on jackstands, take your jack below your rotor. Now raise that end only SLIGHTLY, enough to take tension off the bolt. The bolt will slide right out. You do the same when installing the bolt so that you don't strip it.


There are only 3 bolts you will have to deal with. 2 up top, and 1 at the bottom. Once you have that lower bolt off, you'll notice that it slides in at an angle. That's why there's always tension being applied.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 06:59 PM
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Mach30SiR's Avatar
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From: Fairfax VA
Originally Posted by Cocoa
It's really easy. When you have your car up on jackstands, take your jack below your rotor. Now raise that end only SLIGHTLY, enough to take tension off the bolt. The bolt will slide right out. You do the same when installing the bolt so that you don't strip it.


There are only 3 bolts you will have to deal with. 2 up top, and 1 at the bottom. Once you have that lower bolt off, you'll notice that it slides in at an angle. That's why there's always tension being applied.
I wish this post was added to the DIY guide..I bet this would have made the difference.
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 01:18 AM
  #11  
vietfobulust's Avatar
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I appreciate everyone's help. This is great information, I'll finish in no time. Hopefully have pics up by Friday.
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Mach30SiR
I wish this post was added to the DIY guide..I bet this would have made the difference.
added
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 10:50 AM
  #13  
Myxomatosis's Avatar
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From: PK NY
Originally Posted by Cocoa
It's really easy. When you have your car up on jackstands, take your jack below your rotor. Now raise that end only SLIGHTLY, enough to take tension off the bolt. The bolt will slide right out. You do the same when installing the bolt so that you don't strip it.

There are only 3 bolts you will have to deal with. 2 up top, and 1 at the bottom. Once you have that lower bolt off, you'll notice that it slides in at an angle. That's why there's always tension being applied.

I used PB blaster, followed by wd-40, then that not having worked even after using about 20 different ways, incl. taking tension off, I cut the shock off, than cut the welded nut off, that didnt work, so than I sawed off the other end of the bolt, that didnt work, so I torched the bushing out.......I tried my long dragged out process on both sides, ended up changing the bushing on both sides.
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Myxomatosis
I used PB blaster, followed by wd-40, then that not having worked even after using about 20 different ways, incl. taking tension off, I cut the shock off, than cut the welded nut off, that didnt work, so than I sawed off the other end of the bolt, that didnt work, so I torched the bushing out.......I tried my long dragged out process on both sides, ended up changing the bushing on both sides.
Sounds about right....

Chris..thanks for adding that!
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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