I will apologize upfront for not being a wrench head as most of you are when putting my problem into you hands and I'm ignorant. Anyways.......in order for me to adjust my NOS to the 75lb shot, I need to add a hondata source. Is anyone familar with this and if so, what do I need. THANKS UP FRONT

 

HUH? I'm not sure what you mean. I know you need to use a wet system. Hondata I believe is a computer upgrade and I'm not so sure you need that. Where did you get this info from?? Check with Racinghart

 

Actually have a dry system that runs like a champ. I just found out my car peolpe foudn what I needed its a: VAFC by APPEX.

 

wont wet blow your shit up?

i would go with dry to keep it safe.

 

Apex AFC Neo is what we're going with . The above is no longer available.

ANd FUCK YA I went with dry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET

 

Dry isnt safe by far on our cars, the only fuel enrichment you get is from the iat sensor reading the cooler intake charge. Good luck with that one. Our cars run safe with a wet kit single nozzle up to 100 hp. Heater and bottle pressure @ 950 lbs runs like a champ.

 

X2!! Your shit's gonna blow like a hooker in Vegas!! A few words of advice, PULL OUT!

Stillhere or Racinghart03 please chime in now!

 

lmao, racinghart can settle this, but hes always busy. the threadstarter will probably already have blown his engine and replaced it before racinghart replies. lmao

 

hey pm me if you need a VAFC

 

Why would the O2 sensor not be able to detect the lean mixture and dump more fuel (granted, just up to 100% duty cycle of the injector)?

 

WOT puts the ecu into open loop and it doesnt use the o2's for fuel correction

 

What is the cost of installing a NOS system?
What are the performance results of doing so?
Thanks

 

Not going to lie to me it seems pointless on a TL to put NOS...risk to the car, and its not going to put you in the 10 second range so there's really no need for it.

IF Acura had a better aftermarket following then yeah maybe..but come on this isn't an evo.

 

Are you sure the wideband goes into open loop at WOT? I was pretty sure it stays in closed loop all the time. Either way, there's no way in hell the 02 could correct enough or quick enough. As soon as that dry shot hits the motor, it's toast.

To the OP, why on earth would you go with a dry shot? I don't care for it on MAF equipped cars but on a Speed Density it's engine suicide. Listen to the people that have successfully run nitrous on these cars.

 

I agree w/ Crucifer. TL + NOS, why? A 'project' car would be more appropriate. But then again, this would have been appealing to me 20 years ago.

 

Ok OK OK. I gotta free minute lol. Cant run a dry on our cars (3gTl) due to the design of the fuel supply system. Wet is the only way to do it correctly. The principles of a dry system do not even apply to the 3g tls so I wont get into it. If you have a dry system installed best of luck to you. Wont be too long before you are crying the blues. Zex is the way to go. Decreases fuel as bottle pressure drops to keep N20 to Fuel ratio consistent with jetting. Stoich of Nitrous/fuel is different than just fuel so be careful. Tune your wet system with 14.7 in mind and youll have a bad day too. As far as benefits... I have a Zex system with some other odds and ends and I put down almost 310 WHEEL HP and about 270 tq (auto trans). While its no 10 second car, I can have a little luxury and be a serious contender on the street. Shoulda seen the look on the guy in the SRT8s
face when I drove by him on the highway. That is priceless. 10 bottles later and only 6k on my clock...I musta done something right.

 

makes me wana get nitrous lol

 

I think im going to be putting down like 330hp 310tq wit a 55 wet shot. Cant wait, 12s easy.

 

Typically, how long does a bottle last you?

 

I'd say if Im on the botte heavily through out the week, I can get away with refilling it once a month. Cost isn't bad either 2.90-3.25 per lb. Just had the NEo INSTALLED ALONG with a few other goodies and taken it to be tuned this weekend. I'll post where I am in terms of true power. For the record, still no problems with the dry system. I did re[place my motor mounts though.

 

So, you're not even the least bit concerned after a couple of respected tuners on this site state "you will blow your engine"?

You'd probably have to be David Blaine to sneak that by as component failure for warranty work.

 

You've had it for less than half a month and you're making comments on how long the bottle lasts? I can't wait for the post on how "my engine runs rough and I don't know why" or "I ran over my crank/rods/pistons". What exactly is it that you're trying to accomplish running a dry system? How do you monitor what's going on like A/F or knock? I'll tell you exactly what's going on, you're lean and detonating the motor. It's taking it for now but mark my works the time will come when it blows and you're going to be posting about how nitrous sucks because of an improper application. The best part will be when you take it off hoping for warranty coverage and Acura does a little research and finds this thread.

 

Does N0S give u more horsepower then a supercharger for the tl? And if it does then why doesn't every 1 buy N0S cuz it cheaper? Can some one tell me?

 

Way too much to cover on that topic. It would take weeks lol.

With both a super/turbo charger and nitrous, the goal is to get more oxygen into the cylinders but they do it with vastly different methods.

I prefer a turbo or supercharger. Once it's installed, the power is always there and is controlled by the gas pedal. They are overgrown air compressors and force more air into the engine than it could normally use. At 14.7 psi boost you're pushing nearly double the air through the motor and making double the hp.

Nitrous oxide is a chemical injected into the airstream. It's oxygen and nitrogen. Pure oxygen would make more power but it would also melt pistons so the nitrogen is there as a buffer. You determine how much hp you make by how large the jets are. There are kits anywhere from 35hp to 600hp. Most kits deliver the power only at wide open throttle and the full power hits instantly all at once. This is fine for some drag race only cars but it's not as nice on the street for many reasons. It's harder on parts and much easier to screw up and break stuff. It's all or nothing, not progressive unless you spend a ton of money. Besides that, you have to fill the bottle once in a while. Most people I grew up with filled their 10lb bottles in their Mustangs every couple weeks on a 150 shot.

When all is said and done, at a set hp level, a turbo will always be the easiest on the motor.

Edit: as for the original question, the only answer is it depends. My car makes about 170hp without the turbo and around 700hp at the crank at full boost with the turbo.

 

10 BOTTLES and still running? damn, makes me wanna hook up NOS for the track

 

The best part of this site is being on receiving end of redicule and rage. Kinda like driving to and from work out here in so cal. If those of you bothered to take note of my comments you would notice my 1st comment was im ignorant of the subject. Most of my writings come from within hours of spending lots of time withthe mechanic and team.
Don't judge a rookie making rookie mistakes. As for my car, the first thing I did was convert it into a COMPLETELY safe vehilcle. Upgrades in all areas so that if something catostropic happens, the people around me and myself are all safer.

Saftey to me is #1. For all those "professionals" that I feel I didn't listen to your thoughts/ideas.....................I took them to my mechanic, tuner and 50+yrs guy who has cleared me to race.
I challenege anyone to contact me and I'd be more than happy to meet you at the track

 

dude, calm down for a minute. Listen to yourself and others right now and take in the knowledge. People here have given their comments about the dry system and the motor killing itself, they have learned from their experiences and are passing it to you to learn. It may seem harsh, but its the truth. Granted you said you weren't very good with the tech stuff, but I didn't see you asking about the ways it could KILL your car.

As for the people who have "cleared you to race" and your mechanics, clearing to race is different than being reliable. Your car may be able to run the track 10 or 11 times, but after that your car's toast. I suggest you print out this thread and bring it to the people who suggested use this kit or I suggest for them to join here and find out why it won't work.

 

I hear ya. I'll quietly back out of this conversation with this," safety is #1. Along side of safety is knowledge. With knowledge and safey you earn experience. If you apply knowledge to safety & safety to leadership & leadership to experience you equal a equation my car and I live by.
At 36, asking questions, reading articles and even posting threads are all a part of my daily activities to learn more and more and more. At least I'm not a person who makes unresearched statements public

 

No one is trying to make you look bad. I'm one of those people who had to try things for themselves and I've been through 3 motors and countless headgaskets before I finally got a reliable combo. Looking at what I'm running now it's what the old timers suggested back in '95.

Do you have any pics of your setup? I would like to see if it's truly a dry shot or if the terminology is wrong. Also, what tracks are near Upland?

 

[QUOTE=I challenege anyone to contact me and I'd be more than happy to meet you at the track[/QUOTE]

Do you race with that big ole sub box in the trunk?

 

Fontana speedway allows us to race. I have be out to Vegas a couple times. But I'm mostly keeping it to myself. I don't street race (much), out here if your caught, your cars impounded for 30days and if anyting on it is stolen and/or illegal they confiscate it and crush it.

well the speaker box is detatchable, but I usually leave it in, its light. The magnet on the speaker itself weighs more

 

You all will be happy to know, Im getting rid of my dry shot and order a direct port injection system. Thanks to all that were in my face and up front. I aparently smarter with direct influence

 

D u d e !

Please post pics of it when you get it installed. Thanks

 

I'd never juice my car... i dunno why... just always feels "dangerous" to me.. i smoke in the car, god forbid an accident... i dunno.... im a power hungry whore, but not desperate enough to put the car on Juice..... i always think of the Fast & Furious when those guys shoot the Eclipse, and blow up the two 150shot bottles... of course its a movie, but still... worries me

and yea, some of the people who posted here (especially Ryan & RacingHart) really know these cars, and F/I.... if they told me Wet only, i would change it in a heartbeat!

Good luck to you! We all wanna see some time-slips or dyno sheets

 

Ofcourse. The problem came from REALLY bad advise the EX mechanic gave and acted upon. I will post once installed. I can't wait to feel the difference in power to. From this day forward it's gonna change the way CHP's chase me.

 

I'm scared of NOS. Seems fun, but I would never put that on my car unless I had a geo metro.

You piston walls will hate you after a while, not only that you could freeze dry them valves.

 

stock motor with NOS? or do you have a SC ?
Stock motor with NOS is scary

 

Here we go again. My engine is not stock. I do need to update my profile with all the extras I have. But for now, no it's not. Far from. 2nd, do you think just having a SC justifies NOS? What about all the saftey issues ur going to need? Tires? suspension? Hell, oil for that matter. To think I did something so big without the care of others.....ignorant

 

i think FWD w/ NOS is scary..especially a 100 shot...when you hit that, your front wheels must be all over the road (torque steer)

 

Good to hear you went with the port kit. From the worst to the best. It should look pretty cool when you're done unless all the plumbing is under the upper plenum.

Don't get carried away with the jetting, get a good reliable system with a minimum of a window switch and you will be fine. Most engine failures are from the fuel not triggering.