Replacing CV shaft

Old 07-08-2019, 09:21 AM
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Replacing CV shaft

Hello guys. My passenger side CV shaft needs to be replaced because I hear a bad clicking/rubbing noise when I turn. Can you guys send me a link to a good CV shaft brand I can buy ... The OEM one from Acura is 1000 which is a rip off. Also if I am changing the passenger one should I change the driver too?

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Old 07-08-2019, 12:36 PM
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Buy a used, low mile factory one.

Or one from Raxles.

You may think the OEM is a ripoff....until you realize how badly made the aftermarket ones are.
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Old 07-08-2019, 01:02 PM
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Some of the aftermarket really are crap. Others are quite good. I had a long arduous experience with the driveaxle on my TL. I won't go into detail. What I will say is that I fully disassembled several CV axles along with the used/bad Honda one. The Honda axle was superior in nearly every way.

I'm guessing you're getting your parts pricing from a local dealer. Prices are much cheaper online:

Items #6 and #7. That's for a 2009 with an Automatic. You'll want to select your exact model since there may be minor differences. But yeah, around $300. I pulled up the 2014 and they're about $530. Not sure where the difference is. Either way, definitely less than $1000.

You could go aftermarket as long as you get a lifetime warranty (most auto stores provide that) AND willing to go through the rigors of replacing it if it were to go bad again. I take that gamble with easy-to-replace items like an alternator. And I wouldn't mind the job or replacing a half-shaft. Takes about 30 minutes if you know what you're doing. Otherwise, it could be a pretty long job. Especially if there's a lot of rust. If that's your case, going with OEM may be best.

If going aftermarket, I found APWI to be the best. At least visually when tearing it apart and examining the bearings and joints. You can find those on RockAuto at pretty reasonable prices.

Last edited by losiglow; 07-08-2019 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 07-09-2019, 04:07 PM
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The big issue with aftermarket axles is that the cups seem not to have a hard enough bearing surface.

The bearings eat into them quickly and you get the trembles.

The OEM ones take some time for this to happen. Some people hypothesize that the factory grease type does not adequately prevent wear, and recommend repacking with superior grease as a preventative measure.

Hondas after about the year 2000ish started displaying this issue on a wide scale. F and K series engine cars, mostly.

Could be a million reasons. Maybe Honda changed axle suppliers, maybe the good grease was no longer environmentally viable. Maybe the new engine designs required a funky axle angle. Maybe the added torque from these engines and weight from the cars accelerates wear.

Some of that can be designed out. Not sure why they hadn't fixed it in 20freaking14 though.
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