OEM Genuine brakes or aftermarket?
First question, can anyone confirm the minimum allowable rotor width or thickness to replace a rotor?
Now, the fun question, OEM genuine Honda Acura part? or do you have personal experience with aftermarket rotors and pads? If so, how many miles do you have on your aftermarket setup and which brand did you go with? Car: Type and brand of brakes (OEM Genuine Honda Acura or Aftermarket): How many miles: Easy or hard miles: Review? Thank you in advance |
centric rotors and stock pads
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Autozone Max Gold or whatever they call it now. .
Lifetime replacement. aka free brakes for life. |
Originally Posted by thoiboi
(Post 16390172)
Autozone Max Gold or whatever they call it now. .
Lifetime replacement. aka free brakes for life. |
Originally Posted by robpp
(Post 16390146)
centric rotors and stock pads
I am also considering just a pad replacement and fluid flush for now. Safe the rotors for later. Any one know the minimum thickness to replace a rotor? |
Centric rotors are not cut near the axle, there will be a big rust ring. I hate it. Might go OEM next.
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Originally Posted by TSX1012m6
(Post 16390738)
Centric rotors are not cut near the axle, there will be a big rust ring. I hate it. Might go OEM next.
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I'll grab a photo. The centric rotorss surface area goes beyond just what the pad touches. The OEM rotors only have a surface area of just enough for the pad itself.
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Originally Posted by TSX1012m6
(Post 16390742)
I'll grab a photo. The centric rotorss surface area goes beyond just what the pad touches. The OEM rotors only have a surface area of just enough for the pad itself.
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Only one way to settle this. Pictures.
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Originally Posted by Sheefo2k
(Post 16390722)
Really? Have you had any issues with them? The lifetime warranty is nice but I would rather get something that will last and take a beating. The TSX is a fairly light weight car and it would take a lot to warp a rotor.
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
(Post 16390830)
0 issues. If you do a search here you will see many people also have gone this route |
The factory pads have the best blend possible of low dust, long life, performance, temp resistance, initial bite, cost, etc.
So...that's an easy choice if you want. If you choose an aftermarket pad, then figure out what you want the pad to do. To gain more of one thing means compromising on other aspects. Example: Want more performance than OEM? Its possible if you can accept more dust and lower life span. That kind of thing. The only reason to deviate from OEM is if you want more OR less of some aspect. If you're not looking for something in particular, just buy the factory pads. Any blank rotor with a rust barrier is a fine choice, though. Factory, aftermarket, "performance", whatever you want...it pretty much works the same. |
no need for drilled or slotted rotors. They are just for looks anyways.
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Originally Posted by BROlando
(Post 16391786)
The factory pads have the best blend possible of low dust, long life, performance, temp resistance, initial bite, cost, etc.
So...that's an easy choice if you want. If you choose an aftermarket pad, then figure out what you want the pad to do. To gain more of one thing means compromising on other aspects. Example: Want more performance than OEM? Its possible if you can accept more dust and lower life span. That kind of thing. The only reason to deviate from OEM is if you want more OR less of some aspect. If you're not looking for something in particular, just buy the factory pads. Any blank rotor with a rust barrier is a fine choice, though. Factory, aftermarket, "performance", whatever you want...it pretty much works the same. |
Originally Posted by Sheefo2k
(Post 16393290)
Do you have any information on the minimum rotor thickness before switching rotors?
Nope. It should be stamped on the rotor. Not something I pay much attention to. For many reasons, I use new rotors with every pad change. They're cheap. Pads need to mate to the rotor...and this is MUCH easier with a fresh surface, etc. |
Originally Posted by BROlando
(Post 16393325)
Nope. It should be stamped on the rotor.
Not something I pay much attention to. For many reasons, I use new rotors with every pad change. They're cheap. Pads need to mate to the rotor...and this is MUCH easier with a fresh surface, etc. |
agreed:nod:
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