Leasing a TSX
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Leasing a TSX
Coming up on 100K miles on my 2007 Acura TL Type S. I'm considering of trading it in and leasing a TSX.
I don't think I will be keeping the car for more than 4 years or driving the car more than 10K miles a year.
First time leasing, so I need some tips or advise on working out a deal with the dealers. What should I look out for? What questios should I ask? What fees should I avoid?
I don't think I will be keeping the car for more than 4 years or driving the car more than 10K miles a year.
First time leasing, so I need some tips or advise on working out a deal with the dealers. What should I look out for? What questios should I ask? What fees should I avoid?
#2
Goodbye.
If you are adamant about leasing a car and only keeping it for under 4 years and have all the money to spend, then go get yourself a BMW.
I drive 3500 miles a year in my TSX and I bought it.
I drive 3500 miles a year in my TSX and I bought it.
#5
nothome17, I'm on my second TSX lease. The first thing to do is to not treat this as a lease. Treat it as if you were buying a new car, and negotiate everything up front. In other words, get a good price first, don't mention it's a lease. Don't consider monthly payments, because the dealer will use the illusion of low monthly payments to trick you into paying more.
Then, look up Acura's lease rates for this month. Here's a good resource:
http://www.ridewithg.com/index.php/2...es-march-2012/
Another resource to look at is leaseguide: http://www.leaseguide.com/
After this, you should be well-armed going into any lease. Good luck.
Then, look up Acura's lease rates for this month. Here's a good resource:
http://www.ridewithg.com/index.php/2...es-march-2012/
Another resource to look at is leaseguide: http://www.leaseguide.com/
After this, you should be well-armed going into any lease. Good luck.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
MrOtocinclus: Good info, thank for the links.
You don't mind giving me a run down on the numbers you got for your last 2 leases. So in, that way, I can use it as a negotiating template.
TSXy LUSTER: I did look into other cars but only Acura was willing to give me the full market value for my 2008 Acura TL Type S.
You don't mind giving me a run down on the numbers you got for your last 2 leases. So in, that way, I can use it as a negotiating template.
TSXy LUSTER: I did look into other cars but only Acura was willing to give me the full market value for my 2008 Acura TL Type S.
Last edited by nothome17; 03-27-2012 at 01:49 PM.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Ohh BTW, I did read the post by TTK5 on his post " Might be bye-bye time. " and read all the opinions. He sure did get slammed by some chick in there. Hilarious.. some chick got butt hurt about not helping the economy. Speaking of economy, killed time at work reading it.
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ed_423 (03-27-2012)
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#8
nothome17, I'm on my second TSX lease. The first thing to do is to not treat this as a lease. Treat it as if you were buying a new car, and negotiate everything up front. In other words, get a good price first, don't mention it's a lease. Don't consider monthly payments, because the dealer will use the illusion of low monthly payments to trick you into paying more.
Then, look up Acura's lease rates for this month. Here's a good resource:
http://www.ridewithg.com/index.php/2...es-march-2012/
Another resource to look at is leaseguide: http://www.leaseguide.com/
After this, you should be well-armed going into any lease. Good luck.
Then, look up Acura's lease rates for this month. Here's a good resource:
http://www.ridewithg.com/index.php/2...es-march-2012/
Another resource to look at is leaseguide: http://www.leaseguide.com/
After this, you should be well-armed going into any lease. Good luck.
MrOtocinclus: Good info, thank for the links.
You don't mind giving me a run down on the numbers you got for your last 2 leases. So in, that way, I can use it as a negotiating template.
TSXy LUSTER: I did look into other cars but only Acura was willing to give me the full market value for my 2008 Acura TL Type S.
You don't mind giving me a run down on the numbers you got for your last 2 leases. So in, that way, I can use it as a negotiating template.
TSXy LUSTER: I did look into other cars but only Acura was willing to give me the full market value for my 2008 Acura TL Type S.
Don't ever answer the question about "what do you want your monthly payments to be" seriously. My usual answer is "I'm not sure if I want to pay cash or finance the car yet." A further iquiry gets a "I'm looking at paying $2.95 a month - can you do that?"
The "money factor" is often times negotiable as well, but you will lose if you dont clarify the price of the car first.
#9
nothome, you may be able to sell the 08 TLs privately without too much difficulty depending on miles and condition for above your buyout price, and then go in for the lease without trading in. price depends on state and stuff due to taxes. when i went to lease, i told them i do not want to put anything upfront, and to roll everything in. i paid $330 a month for 36 months on a base 2010 TSX I4 with absolutely 0 down.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Neither did I know you can negotiate the price up front.
Thought about selling it privately but I live in Arizona. Probably get shot and killed. Mexico is just around the corner. Not worth my life I think. But i'll think about it some more.
Thought about selling it privately but I live in Arizona. Probably get shot and killed. Mexico is just around the corner. Not worth my life I think. But i'll think about it some more.
#12
Good Luck!
#13
Goodbye.
leasing vs. buying/financing is always a debate among people and there is no need trying to convince the other side of your own reasons. I personally hate leasing cars and I bought/financed my TSX.
As for other dealerships not giving you your price for your current car, you can always go private like what he said or keep shopping around until you find a dealership that will.
As for other dealerships not giving you your price for your current car, you can always go private like what he said or keep shopping around until you find a dealership that will.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
I forgot to mention that I'd prefer the redesign of the TSX if it doesn't get cancelled. So probably the 3rd year of the new TSX.
That's why I'm thinking about leasing. Don't plan to keep the TSX but would like to buy the new one if it looks sexy. right TSXy?
That's why I'm thinking about leasing. Don't plan to keep the TSX but would like to buy the new one if it looks sexy. right TSXy?
#15
Goodbye.
TSXy thinks the 2nd gen TSX is TSXy enough. It is TSXy in all the right places with its TSXy curves, which just gives you more to hold on to and love during TSXy times.
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
I agree, it does look TSXy but I'm banking the 3rd gen TSX will top the 2nd gen. Remeber the 2nd gen integra? The 3rd gen integra was a lot sexier. And take for example the 3rd gen TL. Which I have right now. Soo sexy.. 3rd time is TSXy....
#17
There will be no 3rd gen TSX, it seems.
#18
Goodbye.
#19
Intermediate
Since we are unsure of what is to come of the ILX and the 3rd gen TSX I would wait until spring comes and they announce the price of the ILX. (it's still on track to hit showrooms in the spring according to Acura's site)
The price should give us a glimpse in to what is to come or if it really is the "speculated" TSX replacement
Since you will be leasing if they do happen to git rid of the current TSX your depreciation would not be quite as bad as if you owned the new TSX you are looking to get.
The price should give us a glimpse in to what is to come or if it really is the "speculated" TSX replacement
Since you will be leasing if they do happen to git rid of the current TSX your depreciation would not be quite as bad as if you owned the new TSX you are looking to get.
#20
Developer & Car Fan
Lease only if you don't intend to drive over the allotted amount, it can become costly very quickly. If you happen to own your own company, lease it under that, its tax deductible. However if you buy it under a business you can also depreciate over time.
If its for personal use then i'd be certain a lease is what you want. I crunched all the numbers when I was shopping and decided my monthly payment was low enough i'd just finance. Based on the amount I put down it made it much more manageable and in 4 years (wow, long time) i'll own the car outright, if I don't pay it off faster.
Matt
If its for personal use then i'd be certain a lease is what you want. I crunched all the numbers when I was shopping and decided my monthly payment was low enough i'd just finance. Based on the amount I put down it made it much more manageable and in 4 years (wow, long time) i'll own the car outright, if I don't pay it off faster.
Matt
#21
Since we are unsure of what is to come of the ILX and the 3rd gen TSX I would wait until spring comes and they announce the price of the ILX. (it's still on track to hit showrooms in the spring according to Acura's site)
The price should give us a glimpse in to what is to come or if it really is the "speculated" TSX replacement
Since you will be leasing if they do happen to git rid of the current TSX your depreciation would not be quite as bad as if you owned the new TSX you are looking to get.
The price should give us a glimpse in to what is to come or if it really is the "speculated" TSX replacement
Since you will be leasing if they do happen to git rid of the current TSX your depreciation would not be quite as bad as if you owned the new TSX you are looking to get.
As a general rule, current models only take a resale hit when they are facelifted or a new version of the same model comes out. The BMW 3 series took a hit this year once the new 3 series arrived here but it didn't take a hit when the 1 series arrived a few years back.
You inadvertently brought up a benefit of leasing that many people find attractive - knowing what the "trade-in" value of their car is at the end of the lease, while selling your car after a few years is a crap shoot.
Leasers must also be aware that they can negotiate the buy out price of their car at the end of the lease if they want to buy it or they can sell it privately if they think that they can get more than the buy out price, but they are assured of a residual value for their own planning purposes.
For all practical purposes, when you are leasing, you are merely paying the anticipated depreciation plus interest and, if you take care of the car and stay within the mileage limits, you can calculate the costs of driving the car for three years almost down to the penny - something you cannot do when buying a car.
Just for the record, I've never considered leasing a car because of the miles I drive, so I'm not an advocate - or a detractor - of leasing.
Leasing clearly has more potential pitfalls than buying if you aren't careful. Dealers can play more games and obfuscate more costs in a lease. They have invented new terms for commonly known words to increase the mystery of leasing and making it sound less ominous. "Cap cost reduction" instead of "down payment" and "money factor" instead of "interest" are all calculated to have you focus on one thing - the monthly payment. Making the money cactor a tiny little fraction is designed to make you think that it is an inconsequential number, when in fact it generally is a pretty hefty interest rate.
#22
Lease only if you don't intend to drive over the allotted amount, it can become costly very quickly. If you happen to own your own company, lease it under that, its tax deductible. However if you buy it under a business you can also depreciate over time.
If its for personal use then i'd be certain a lease is what you want. I crunched all the numbers when I was shopping and decided my monthly payment was low enough i'd just finance. Based on the amount I put down it made it much more manageable and in 4 years (wow, long time) i'll own the car outright, if I don't pay it off faster.
Matt
If its for personal use then i'd be certain a lease is what you want. I crunched all the numbers when I was shopping and decided my monthly payment was low enough i'd just finance. Based on the amount I put down it made it much more manageable and in 4 years (wow, long time) i'll own the car outright, if I don't pay it off faster.
Matt
After negotiating a price and the MF (and reduced costs even more by paying all of the lease costs up front - kind of like multiple security deposits,) the total lease costs plus residual value ended up being $26 less than the negotiated cost alone.
If she decides to buy her car at the end of the lease, I'm pretty positive that she can negotiate the residual (buy out) cost down by a few thousand, making the lease far cheaper than buying the car outright.
This was a very unusual situation where all the stars were in alignment and Acura had low MF combined with an artificially high residual for a slow selling car with a depreciation that is incredibly high.
#23
Goodbye.
The estimated prices of the ILX models have already been released and while their highest trim is about $1000 below the TSX's base model, that does not mean the TSX is done.
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
Theres a post: Looks Like the TSX Will NOT be Replaced by the ILX
Looks like theres going to be a 3 generation TSX. It's gonna be TSXy..
Looks like theres going to be a 3 generation TSX. It's gonna be TSXy..
#25
I leased my '09 TSX and vowed never to lease again. Interest rates are just too good right now, especially through Acura/Honda Financing (i.e. 0.9% APR). You're basically throwing away money if you'd ever want to buy it out.
Only car I would consider leasing these days is a BMW, because all maintenance/warranty issues besides tires are covered.
Only car I would consider leasing these days is a BMW, because all maintenance/warranty issues besides tires are covered.
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
Okay, so help me out here. When signing for the lease, what fees are legit and what are made up?
#27
If you want to lease try a bank or credit union first. Acura's lease terms are terrible in my opinion.
With the credit union I am leasing, my 2011 is 340/month for 5 years, 2000 down, 15000 mile limit a year, no security deposit, 0.10 mile penalty for overage.
We picked up another TSX (2009 with 12,855 miles on it) for my wife at auction and are paying 280/month for 5 years with the same above.
First time leasing for me, 2nd time for the wife. I did it since I am not going to mod these cars and I never have owned a car more than 5 years. With leasing I have garaunteed equity at the end of the lease no matter what. The TSX is one of the few cars that have a high resale value which allows for a low lease payment. We looked at other cars around the same price of the TSX and the payments were about 100 more a month because of the huge depreciation factor.
The really nice thing is that I was hit last November in the 2011, caused 7500 in damage and since I used the credit unions body shop I have no worries about depreciation. That would not happen with a car that is being financed to purchase. My Blackbook value would have dropped at least one level maybe two depending on the dealer.
With the credit union I am leasing, my 2011 is 340/month for 5 years, 2000 down, 15000 mile limit a year, no security deposit, 0.10 mile penalty for overage.
We picked up another TSX (2009 with 12,855 miles on it) for my wife at auction and are paying 280/month for 5 years with the same above.
First time leasing for me, 2nd time for the wife. I did it since I am not going to mod these cars and I never have owned a car more than 5 years. With leasing I have garaunteed equity at the end of the lease no matter what. The TSX is one of the few cars that have a high resale value which allows for a low lease payment. We looked at other cars around the same price of the TSX and the payments were about 100 more a month because of the huge depreciation factor.
The really nice thing is that I was hit last November in the 2011, caused 7500 in damage and since I used the credit unions body shop I have no worries about depreciation. That would not happen with a car that is being financed to purchase. My Blackbook value would have dropped at least one level maybe two depending on the dealer.
#28
I think at the end of the day, just pay whatever makes you comfortable. The amount of misinformation I see on the internet is astounding. It seems like everybody has the right answer, there's no use trying to use logic and facts.
#29
Pro
Just do all the negotiating wl the sales man. be very FIRM!
Theyre going to put you in what i call the "box" where you sign paperwork etc.
And theyre going to get you for your first months payment, doc fees, DMV fees ETC.
Just cause a little scene, You've put enough Down already etc. youre not comming out of pocket anymore, And be ready to walk out the office. I did it and surely he came after me and said dont worry about it. they will take the loss on a few hundred bucks to get the car on the road
#30
If you end up leasing, don't put any money down. That was my biggest regret. Cap-cost reduction simply isn't worth it when you don't own...
#31
#33
#34
Cap cost reduction will decrease your monthly payments and equal out in the long run if you keep your cat through lease end but is money flushed down the toilet if the car is totaled or you return your lease early.
#35
There is no "equity" in a lease. Any money you put down as cap cost reduction is part of your lease costs and won't affect the residual.
Cap cost reduction will decrease your monthly payments and equal out in the long run if you keep your cat through lease end but is money flushed down the toilet if the car is totaled or you return your lease early.
Cap cost reduction will decrease your monthly payments and equal out in the long run if you keep your cat through lease end but is money flushed down the toilet if the car is totaled or you return your lease early.
Lets just say that I can turn in my lease now and still have a really decent down payment for another car. This is true if the car is totaled also.
All I can say is that its good to have family in the leasing business!
#36
Your right on most leases, however, on mine it will not be.
Lets just say that I can turn in my lease now and still have a really decent down payment for another car. This is true if the car is totaled also.
All I can say is that its good to have family in the leasing business!
Lets just say that I can turn in my lease now and still have a really decent down payment for another car. This is true if the car is totaled also.
All I can say is that its good to have family in the leasing business!
#37
Calculating the true cost of a lease is easy but nobody ever does it because they ALWAYS focus on monthly payments.
Lease costs:
Add total monthly payments to cap cost reduction, acquisition fees, lease turn in fees and what not (taxes, DMV fees etc) for your total lease costs. Add the residual and that is your total cost for the car.
Costs for buying:
Negotiated price plus tax, tags, fees plus total interest that you will pay over the life of the loan (bankrate.com or a number of other calculators will give you that bottom line number) for the total cost of your car.
Compare the two total costs to see how much more (or less) the lease costs you. At that point you can decide if it is worth it.
Lease costs:
Add total monthly payments to cap cost reduction, acquisition fees, lease turn in fees and what not (taxes, DMV fees etc) for your total lease costs. Add the residual and that is your total cost for the car.
Costs for buying:
Negotiated price plus tax, tags, fees plus total interest that you will pay over the life of the loan (bankrate.com or a number of other calculators will give you that bottom line number) for the total cost of your car.
Compare the two total costs to see how much more (or less) the lease costs you. At that point you can decide if it is worth it.
#38
#39
Got to say leases in America sound far more complicated than in Canada. You have an interest rate that is published. You have a guaranteed buyout, depending on what mileage you agree, and that's it. My own deal is at 0%, the residual is 70% on a 2 year lease, that's it. dealers may want to tack on "lease agreement fees" or "documentation fees" and other crap but it can all be negotiated out. The dealer has to make a profit but whether they do this by reducing the price of the car substantially and then getting some of it back through these fees is up to them. You can always check on line, factor in what discount you want and bargain on that basis. Fact is cars depreciate whether you lease finance or pay cash. Just with leasing you have a guaranteed value after a set period. You can always try to sell privately if you want to. which is better primarily depends on how long you want to keep the car for. If you think for longer than the lease term then paying cash or financing, depending on rates, may well be a better deal.
#40
Got to say leases in America sound far more complicated than in Canada. You have an interest rate that is published. You have a guaranteed buyout, depending on what mileage you agree, and that's it. My own deal is at 0%, the residual is 70% on a 2 year lease, that's it. dealers may want to tack on "lease agreement fees" or "documentation fees" and other crap but it can all be negotiated out. The dealer has to make a profit but whether they do this by reducing the price of the car substantially and then getting some of it back through these fees is up to them. You can always check on line, factor in what discount you want and bargain on that basis. Fact is cars depreciate whether you lease finance or pay cash. Just with leasing you have a guaranteed value after a set period. You can always try to sell privately if you want to. which is better primarily depends on how long you want to keep the car for. If you think for longer than the lease term then paying cash or financing, depending on rates, may well be a better deal.