DIY Oil Change
08-02-2011, 06:42 PM
#1
DIY Oil Change
I thought I'd put together a little DIY of the most simple of maintenance procedures since there isn't one so far for the 2nd gen. Personally I like doing as much as possible on my own. It saves money (more money for mods!), is almost just as fast if not faster than going to the dealer and makes you appreciate your ride more.
That said, things can still go wrong like a jack failing, over-filling the oil, etc so if you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself then get a shop to do this.
Tools Needed:
Remember to dispose of your used oil at a proper dumping facility. Some shops also take old oil.
Here is the MID indicating that an oil and filter change is due:
Gather all your gear together:
Set the parking brake and jack up the car on a hard, level surface (concrete preferred, asphalt is too soft). Block the wheels that are still on the ground. Set your jack stands at the appropriate jack points and get under the vehicle and locate the under cover that we're going to remove. Grab your 10mm socket and remove these 3 bolts closer to the passenger side of the vehicle:
And these 4 bolts closer to the driver's side:
Remove the undercover and set it aside:
Pop your hood and remove the oil cap. Go back under the car and locate the oil filter and drain plug (there's an arrow pointing to the drain plug and it even says Engine Oil so you can't mess this part up):
Closeup:
Those damn grease monkeys at the dealership always over-tighten both the filter and the drain plug--that's another reason I like doing this myself.
Remove the drain plug and filter and let it pee into the oil catch pan:
Honestly I don't know how those 30min oil change places do it...I let mine drip for at least 15-20 min to get all the old crud out.
While you're waiting you might as well do something productive. Some people like to clean out their air filter or something like that. I take this time to prime my new oil filter by filling it with clean oil and clean up my oil drain bolt and make sure that I replace the old crushable washer with a new one. Take a little fresh oil and grease up the new gasket around the oil filter.
Place the old filter into a ziplock bag and empty the old oil into a suitable container (I use old oil jugs).
Go back under the vehicle and re-install the oil drain plug (with crushable washer) and filter. Make sure the old filter gasket came off with the old filter. Tighten the drain plug to 29 ft lbs. Hand-tighten the oil filter.
Grab your funnel and fill the engine with 4 litres your favorite brand of 5w20. Check the dipstick after you've let the oil settle and then replace the oil cap.
Go back under the car and re-install the undercover. Make sure to have the front of the cover go into this slot. You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it.
Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle. Get into the car and start it up. As per the owner's manual, if the oil pressure light does not go off in 5 seconds then turn off the car and check your work. I like to let it idle for a few minutes then check for leaks and re-check the oil level. I also take it for a quick spin and re-check the level. Hold down the reset button on the steering wheel and reset the MID and you're done.
Congrats that's it! This was my first time doing an oil change on this car so it took a bit longer (90 min) but it should only take 45 min or so once you're used to it.
That said, things can still go wrong like a jack failing, over-filling the oil, etc so if you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself then get a shop to do this.
Tools Needed:
- Wheel Chocks (or something to block the wheels with)
- Jack and jack stands
- Oil catch can
- Oil filter wrench (I don't have one but admittedly it'd be much easier with one)
- 10mm and 17mm wrench
- New crushable washer (usually free from the dealer when you buy the OEM filter)
- New oil filter
- 4 litres of 5w20 (I switched to Synthetic on this change)
- Funnel
- Lots of rags to mop up old or spilled oil
- Ziplock bag for old filter
Remember to dispose of your used oil at a proper dumping facility. Some shops also take old oil.
Here is the MID indicating that an oil and filter change is due:
Gather all your gear together:
Set the parking brake and jack up the car on a hard, level surface (concrete preferred, asphalt is too soft). Block the wheels that are still on the ground. Set your jack stands at the appropriate jack points and get under the vehicle and locate the under cover that we're going to remove. Grab your 10mm socket and remove these 3 bolts closer to the passenger side of the vehicle:
And these 4 bolts closer to the driver's side:
Remove the undercover and set it aside:
Pop your hood and remove the oil cap. Go back under the car and locate the oil filter and drain plug (there's an arrow pointing to the drain plug and it even says Engine Oil so you can't mess this part up):
Closeup:
Those damn grease monkeys at the dealership always over-tighten both the filter and the drain plug--that's another reason I like doing this myself.
Remove the drain plug and filter and let it pee into the oil catch pan:
Honestly I don't know how those 30min oil change places do it...I let mine drip for at least 15-20 min to get all the old crud out.
While you're waiting you might as well do something productive. Some people like to clean out their air filter or something like that. I take this time to prime my new oil filter by filling it with clean oil and clean up my oil drain bolt and make sure that I replace the old crushable washer with a new one. Take a little fresh oil and grease up the new gasket around the oil filter.
Place the old filter into a ziplock bag and empty the old oil into a suitable container (I use old oil jugs).
Go back under the vehicle and re-install the oil drain plug (with crushable washer) and filter. Make sure the old filter gasket came off with the old filter. Tighten the drain plug to 29 ft lbs. Hand-tighten the oil filter.
Grab your funnel and fill the engine with 4 litres your favorite brand of 5w20. Check the dipstick after you've let the oil settle and then replace the oil cap.
Go back under the car and re-install the undercover. Make sure to have the front of the cover go into this slot. You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it.
Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle. Get into the car and start it up. As per the owner's manual, if the oil pressure light does not go off in 5 seconds then turn off the car and check your work. I like to let it idle for a few minutes then check for leaks and re-check the oil level. I also take it for a quick spin and re-check the level. Hold down the reset button on the steering wheel and reset the MID and you're done.
Congrats that's it! This was my first time doing an oil change on this car so it took a bit longer (90 min) but it should only take 45 min or so once you're used to it.
Last edited by 5thTo2nd; 08-02-2011 at 06:44 PM.
The following 25 users liked this post by 5thTo2nd:
Acura_Dude (09-08-2011),
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BaoZZeR (11-29-2012),
ed_423 (08-03-2011),
EL19 (08-27-2012),
and 20 others liked this post.
08-02-2011, 11:03 PM
#3
Sticky and rep for this awesome DIY pls. These always go under appreciated.
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08-03-2011, 07:00 AM
#10
Yeah it's not hard at all. Actually, it's probably the easiest car I've ever done since the location of the filter is so convenient. Some cars have the filters in the crappiest places.
For B1 you can rotate your own tires too if they're not directional. Rotation pattern is in the manual. Even if they're directional, you can move front-to-back for the time being and then do a proper rotation later. Brakes can be eye-balled.
Yeah, definitely check for leaks before the cover is back on LOL! I'm just used to starting up the car last cause my previous cars were all stick and I had to lower the car before getting in and depressing the clutch.
For B1 you can rotate your own tires too if they're not directional. Rotation pattern is in the manual. Even if they're directional, you can move front-to-back for the time being and then do a proper rotation later. Brakes can be eye-balled.
Yeah, definitely check for leaks before the cover is back on LOL! I'm just used to starting up the car last cause my previous cars were all stick and I had to lower the car before getting in and depressing the clutch.
Last edited by 5thTo2nd; 08-03-2011 at 07:02 AM.
08-04-2011, 02:11 PM
#11
@OP, I give you 10 for the in-detail instructions and I give you an additional plus (+) for this statement: Take a little fresh oil and grease up the new gasket around the oil filter.
As I read through your instructions, I wait for a chance to knock off some points on particular trick but obviously, you are good
Not whole lot of people who diy knows this little trick.
Another trick is instead of dispose the crushable washer, you can just flip it and reuse one more time but who care since it's dirt cheap and often comes with when you purchase the genuine Honda oil-filter.
Thumbs up for you.
As I read through your instructions, I wait for a chance to knock off some points on particular trick but obviously, you are good
Not whole lot of people who diy knows this little trick.
Another trick is instead of dispose the crushable washer, you can just flip it and reuse one more time but who care since it's dirt cheap and often comes with when you purchase the genuine Honda oil-filter.
Thumbs up for you.
Last edited by pinatubo; 08-04-2011 at 02:14 PM.
08-04-2011, 07:20 PM
#12
@OP, I give you 10 for the in-detail instructions and I give you an additional plus (+) for this statement: Take a little fresh oil and grease up the new gasket around the oil filter.
As I read through your instructions, I wait for a chance to knock off some points on particular trick but obviously, you are good
Not whole lot of people who diy knows this little trick.
Another trick is instead of dispose the crushable washer, you can just flip it and reuse one more time but who care since it's dirt cheap and often comes with when you purchase the genuine Honda oil-filter.
Thumbs up for you.
As I read through your instructions, I wait for a chance to knock off some points on particular trick but obviously, you are good
Not whole lot of people who diy knows this little trick.
Another trick is instead of dispose the crushable washer, you can just flip it and reuse one more time but who care since it's dirt cheap and often comes with when you purchase the genuine Honda oil-filter.
Thumbs up for you.
Nice trick on the crushable washer! Another thing some people do to save some coin is to change the oil filter every other oil change. I've always changed everything cause I figure it's just a few bucks more.
08-06-2011, 02:59 PM
#15
what you guys think of the Mobil 1 Extended Performance
does our TSX need that or stick with the regular Mobil 1
does our TSX need that or stick with the regular Mobil 1
08-07-2011, 01:42 AM
#16
OH MAN. I just noticed you put 4L. That was my bad. I was thinking 4 quarts (I'm from the US), so I thought you didn't have enough quarts in there. It's pretty annoying because I've had half a quart of Mobil1 from my previous oil change almost a year ago. Is that leftover oil still good to use for my next oil change, or should I just dispose of it?
08-07-2011, 03:06 AM
#17
Three Wheelin'
^We Canadian are used to Metric and SAE measurements, heck, we have both English and French as Official Languages.
But to our American members:
1 Quart = 0.946352946 Liters. So 4 litres = 4.226753 Quart
But to our American members:
1 Quart = 0.946352946 Liters. So 4 litres = 4.226753 Quart
08-07-2011, 11:10 AM
#18
Haha. I wish the US switched over to the metric system like the rest of the world. I shoulda known better, tbh. I work in a lab and all of our measurements are in liters and stuff. I don't understand why the US has to do things differently, like drive on the right side of the road and whatnot.
08-07-2011, 11:38 AM
#19
Haha. I wish the US switched over to the metric system like the rest of the world. I shoulda known better, tbh. I work in a lab and all of our measurements are in liters and stuff. I don't understand why the US has to do things differently, like drive on the right side of the road and whatnot.
You should have no problem using old oil (after all it was in the ground for thousands of years anyways right). The only thing I know of to use fresh is brake fluid since old bottles can absorb moisture which can affect braking effectiveness.
08-29-2011, 10:33 PM
#20
I had my oil changed today by the dealer. I went there because when I priced the oil, I would've spent more on the oil than I would have at the dealer, not to mention the time. Turns out, they didn't charge me for the service.
Quick question, my MID only showed "B", not B and a number. Is that normal?
Quick question, my MID only showed "B", not B and a number. Is that normal?
08-30-2011, 12:00 AM
#21
Three Wheelin'
I had my oil changed today by the dealer. I went there because when I priced the oil, I would've spent more on the oil than I would have at the dealer, not to mention the time. Turns out, they didn't charge me for the service.
Quick question, my MID only showed "B", not B and a number. Is that normal?
Quick question, my MID only showed "B", not B and a number. Is that normal?
As for the number, it doesn't show up every time. 1 just mean tire rotation, 2 means air and cabin filter change, 3-transmission fluid change and 4 means spark plugs and timing belt. Just check/refer with your owner's manual.
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MyBabysBaby (09-01-2011)
09-06-2011, 08:03 PM
#23
If you ever need to find out part numbers look up Honda's e-store:
http://estore.honda.com/acura/parts/...-4-tsx-5at&dl=
09-06-2011, 08:08 PM
#24
Great write-up! Hoping all is well, I've been busy with school and Jeep Wrangler shopping 
. I've two more free oil changes from the stealership before I start doing my own changes on the TSX!
. I've two more free oil changes from the stealership before I start doing my own changes on the TSX!
09-07-2011, 07:50 PM
#25
Two free oil changes takes you pretty far...you probably won't be DIY'ing till mid next year!
The following users liked this post:
nj2pa2nc (09-08-2011)
09-08-2011, 05:41 PM
#29
I am replacing my '08 Ranger with the Wrangler and my better half will be using it as a primary vehicle. I am going to pick the Jeep up on Saturday and looking forward to it!
Yeah, I've had my TSX for a little over a year and should be due for the second oil change within the next month or two. I'll be well prepared from this write up if I end up having to do changes myself sooner though. Thanks again!
03-30-2012, 01:27 PM
#30
i'll be changing my oil tomorrow, i really appreciate this DIY. just bumping it up incase anyone else needs it. really should be stickied(mods please)
also, this is the part number if anyone needs it for the oil filter. 15400-PLM-A01 they are about 7 bucks from any acura dealer
also, this is the part number if anyone needs it for the oil filter. 15400-PLM-A01 they are about 7 bucks from any acura dealer
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5thTo2nd (03-30-2012)
03-30-2012, 01:30 PM
#31
10th Gear
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Just did my first one at 8500 miles, oil still said 30%. I went ahead and changed it since that's the longest I've ever ran oil.
I will say this car is incredibly easy, the filter is right there. On my old civic I had to do it blindly with the filter-wrench up since the filter was higher on the block.
I will say this car is incredibly easy, the filter is right there. On my old civic I had to do it blindly with the filter-wrench up since the filter was higher on the block.
03-30-2012, 07:30 PM
#32
Pro
Just did my first one at 8500 miles, oil still said 30%. I went ahead and changed it since that's the longest I've ever ran oil.
I will say this car is incredibly easy, the filter is right there. On my old civic I had to do it blindly with the filter-wrench up since the filter was higher on the block.
I will say this car is incredibly easy, the filter is right there. On my old civic I had to do it blindly with the filter-wrench up since the filter was higher on the block.
03-30-2012, 08:17 PM
#33
i'll be changing my oil tomorrow, i really appreciate this DIY. just bumping it up incase anyone else needs it. really should be stickied(mods please)
also, this is the part number if anyone needs it for the oil filter. 15400-PLM-A01 they are about 7 bucks from any acura dealer
also, this is the part number if anyone needs it for the oil filter. 15400-PLM-A01 they are about 7 bucks from any acura dealer
I heard pretty good things about the HAMP (green) filters for Hondas but they're pricier so I never bothered.
Sheeesh! 8500 and still at 30%. Im blown away that im at 40% and have 3500 miles. At this rate i should get ~6000 miles out of this oil. With my previous car i was changing oil every 2000 miles. Gotta love this!! Nice DIY. An oil change is something every enthusiast should be able to do. Really simple and gets you and your car to spend some quality time
yeah I completely agree.
03-30-2012, 08:24 PM
#34
Sheeesh! 8500 and still at 30%. Im blown away that im at 40% and have 3500 miles. At this rate i should get ~6000 miles out of this oil. With my previous car i was changing oil every 2000 miles. Gotta love this!! Nice DIY. An oil change is something every enthusiast should be able to do. Really simple and gets you and your car to spend some quality time
03-30-2012, 09:50 PM
#35
03-31-2012, 07:20 PM
#37
apparently a01>a02. you can get ao1 with crushable washer for $7.75 from any acura dealership. i actually got 2 for 1. the guy that did my brake change a few weeks ago got awarded top tech for the region, so i told him congrats when i stopped in today. the GM overheard, told the Service Manager to call me, i was still on the lot, he told me to come back. and he gave me a second oil filter free compliments of the GM. it wasn't an expensive loss for him, but small gesture that i truly enjoyed. i'll be emailing him ASAP
03-31-2012, 09:15 PM
#38
Nice write up on the procedure. Only one thing I would add is- anti-seize the under-cover bolts if you live in the rust belt like I do. I had one seize up and it was a bitch to get it out.
04-01-2012, 09:11 AM
#39
SEEYOU2CREW
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Houston | New Orleans
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Just a little update:
I had to replace my undercover recently. I got genuine Acura parts, and apparently these new covers us screws instead of bolts. Maybe this happened in the MY change, IDK. can any of the 2011+ guys confirm this?
I had to replace my undercover recently. I got genuine Acura parts, and apparently these new covers us screws instead of bolts. Maybe this happened in the MY change, IDK. can any of the 2011+ guys confirm this?
04-01-2012, 01:24 PM
#40
how much did ya pay for a new one?