DIY front struts/shock replacement
09-04-2017, 07:41 AM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
DIY front struts/shock replacement
So my front driver's side strut/shock is leaking and I decided to order new parts. I ended up going with the OEM complete shock absorber from Acura. It should arrive Tuesday. I got two of them. One for each side.
I've downloaded a repair manual I found online for our car and it seems like it's doable for a newbie. Is it?
The only thing I'm worried about is getting off the bolts attached to the fork. I live near Chicago. It snows here and I'm pretty sure the bolt is rusty. Are these bolts as hard to remove as links are?
Any tips? Thanks in advance guys.
I've downloaded a repair manual I found online for our car and it seems like it's doable for a newbie. Is it?
The only thing I'm worried about is getting off the bolts attached to the fork. I live near Chicago. It snows here and I'm pretty sure the bolt is rusty. Are these bolts as hard to remove as links are?
Any tips? Thanks in advance guys.
09-04-2017, 09:06 AM
#2
Totally forgot to reply to your PM bud.
Front shocks are VERY easy to do. Follow the service manual fully.
Make sure you lift BOTH wheels off the ground before attempting this. Don't do it with only 1 front wheel off the ground.
To remove the shock fork from the shock, a couple of whacks of a mallet work best, AFTER the pinch bolt and lower bolt is fully out.
And don't tighten the lowest bolt (shock fork to control arm) until the car is sitting on the ground.
The pinch and shock bolts should come off. I've taken ones off with 200K/12years on them. It would be an unfortunate piece of luck if yours are rusted in.
Use anti-sieze when re-installing (you can torque to normal spec even with the anti sieze in this case).
Good luck.
Front shocks are VERY easy to do. Follow the service manual fully.
Make sure you lift BOTH wheels off the ground before attempting this. Don't do it with only 1 front wheel off the ground.
To remove the shock fork from the shock, a couple of whacks of a mallet work best, AFTER the pinch bolt and lower bolt is fully out.
And don't tighten the lowest bolt (shock fork to control arm) until the car is sitting on the ground.
The pinch and shock bolts should come off. I've taken ones off with 200K/12years on them. It would be an unfortunate piece of luck if yours are rusted in.
Use anti-sieze when re-installing (you can torque to normal spec even with the anti sieze in this case).
Good luck.
Last edited by BROlando; 09-04-2017 at 09:09 AM.
The following users liked this post:
ipatella (09-04-2017)
09-04-2017, 09:14 AM
#3
Ive taken apart my fronts like 4-5 times. Its definitely do-able. If replacing the entire assembly you are just removing nuts and bolts and putting back together in reverse order. The top bolts are no problem. Id do those last. You will want to spray all your bottom bolts with some kind of liquid wrench. Give it some time to do its work. There is like a 10 mm bolt that holds a wire in place, then a bigger bolt that secures your fork to the bottom of the strut. Then the big nut/bolt on the bottom. I used big wrenches and ratchets. An extension bar "breaker bar" can come in handy to give you extra leverage. I have a 18 inch piece of plastic tubing as my "breaker bar".
a write up i did a while back.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tsx-...ch-cu2-809439/
a write up i did a while back.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tsx-...ch-cu2-809439/
The following users liked this post:
ipatella (09-04-2017)
09-04-2017, 10:55 AM
#4
Advanced
Thread Starter
Totally forgot to reply to your PM bud.
Front shocks are VERY easy to do. Follow the service manual fully.
Make sure you lift BOTH wheels off the ground before attempting this. Don't do it with only 1 front wheel off the ground.
To remove the shock fork from the shock, a couple of whacks of a mallet work best, AFTER the pinch bolt and lower bolt is fully out.
And don't tighten the lowest bolt (shock fork to control arm) until the car is sitting on the ground.
The pinch and shock bolts should come off. I've taken ones off with 200K/12years on them. It would be an unfortunate piece of luck if yours are rusted in.
Use anti-sieze when re-installing (you can torque to normal spec even with the anti sieze in this case).
Good luck.
Front shocks are VERY easy to do. Follow the service manual fully.
Make sure you lift BOTH wheels off the ground before attempting this. Don't do it with only 1 front wheel off the ground.
To remove the shock fork from the shock, a couple of whacks of a mallet work best, AFTER the pinch bolt and lower bolt is fully out.
And don't tighten the lowest bolt (shock fork to control arm) until the car is sitting on the ground.
The pinch and shock bolts should come off. I've taken ones off with 200K/12years on them. It would be an unfortunate piece of luck if yours are rusted in.
Use anti-sieze when re-installing (you can torque to normal spec even with the anti sieze in this case).
Good luck.
I bought new bolts, just in case of the worst. Do I still need anti sieze if I"m using the new bolts? Also where do I put the anti sieze? On the bolts or somewhere else?
09-04-2017, 11:05 AM
#5
So I'm gonna spray the bolts twice today and then once tomorrow morning with liquid wrench or will WD-40 work?
I bought new bolts, just in case of the worst. Do I still need anti sieze if I"m using the new bolts? Also where do I put the anti sieze? On the bolts or somewhere else?
I bought new bolts, just in case of the worst. Do I still need anti sieze if I"m using the new bolts? Also where do I put the anti sieze? On the bolts or somewhere else?
I doubt they'll be stuck. Avoid getting WD40 on your rubber bushings. You shouldn't need WD40.
What type of tools are you using for this? You'll want at least a 1/2" drive ratchet, if you're using hand tools.
Anti sieze is for the threaded and shafted sections of the bolt. Yes...use it on your new bolts in case they ever need to be taken apart.
And...again...don't tighten the bolt for the LCA until the car is on the ground, or the LCA is jacked up with the weight of the car. Tightening the bolt up while the car is lifted up can cause damage that you won't want to deal with.
The following users liked this post:
ipatella (09-04-2017)
09-04-2017, 11:28 AM
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
New bolts are always a good idea.
I doubt they'll be stuck. Avoid getting WD40 on your rubber bushings. You shouldn't need WD40.
What type of tools are you using for this? You'll want at least a 1/2" drive ratchet, if you're using hand tools.
Anti sieze is for the threaded and shafted sections of the bolt. Yes...use it on your new bolts in case they ever need to be taken apart.
And...again...don't tighten the bolt for the LCA until the car is on the ground, or the LCA is jacked up with the weight of the car. Tightening the bolt up while the car is lifted up can cause damage that you won't want to deal with.
I doubt they'll be stuck. Avoid getting WD40 on your rubber bushings. You shouldn't need WD40.
What type of tools are you using for this? You'll want at least a 1/2" drive ratchet, if you're using hand tools.
Anti sieze is for the threaded and shafted sections of the bolt. Yes...use it on your new bolts in case they ever need to be taken apart.
And...again...don't tighten the bolt for the LCA until the car is on the ground, or the LCA is jacked up with the weight of the car. Tightening the bolt up while the car is lifted up can cause damage that you won't want to deal with.
The instructions say to place a jack under the lower control arm to load the suspension up with weight. Then tighten the pinch and fork nut. Would you recommend this over putting the wheel on and then lowering the car and then tightening the bolts?
Trending Topics
09-04-2017, 11:01 PM
#8
Job is totally doable with minimal mechanical experience. Make sure both front wheels are lifted off the ground to take pressure off the sway bar. Pretty easy process. Since you do live in the salt belt be proactive and spray down the lower fork bolts with PB blaster before you start. Keep a torch ready to heat them if the PB blaster doesn't work.
09-05-2017, 07:16 AM
#9
His bolts will almost for sure come out without any help. No PB blast, no nothing.
Definitely don't use a torch. People go to for the torch too fast. You'll melt your axle boot and destroy the bushing...and there's no guarantee the bolt will come out. Torches alsp damage the coating on parts. So rust gets much worse afterward.
If something is stuck...cut it out. Don't torch it unless you absolutely have no other way.
Definitely don't use a torch. People go to for the torch too fast. You'll melt your axle boot and destroy the bushing...and there's no guarantee the bolt will come out. Torches alsp damage the coating on parts. So rust gets much worse afterward.
If something is stuck...cut it out. Don't torch it unless you absolutely have no other way.